Lozic ECU + TCU + AWD Tune

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Press and hold for a second or so on the dial you want to replace and then choose a new one from the list that shows up.

Holy Shit I did not know that was a thing. Thank you!

 

[HoosierStinger]

I recently saw that Twn2rbro, on YouTube, and others here have been getting overboost issues from the ECU tunes. Is that something that may be caused by the boost ready function being on? If so, I may be inclined to order it without it on.

Also, could I get overboost issues on a 1.3 bar tune since it’s more conservative? I don’t have a JB4 to log, so I’m worried about getting this tune and not knowing I’m having overboost till it’s too late.

I've had boost ready on (all the time) on both of my ECU's. I had to get a remap because I changed the factory primary downpipes to high-flow aftermarket. I haven’t experienced any overboost issues either way. It's weird Twn2rbro is experiencing boost spikes in his charge pipe. He said he set his Jb4 to cut boost beyond 24lbs. But pressures that high are never passing beyond the throttle body. So the intake manifold and combustion chamber are never seeing that kind of pressure. Still I can see how some would be concerned about seeing that kind of pressure in the charge pipe. I thought I read somewhere in this thread that spikes in the charge pipe is nothing to be worried about according to Lozic. But I'm to lazy to go back and find where I read that.

-edit- I read it on N54tech.com Difference between Boost and Boost 2? - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
But I would like to hear what Lozic has to say about boost spikes in the charge pipe.

I don't think the Lozic ECU is actually recognizing a overboost event in Twn2rbro situation. I think it's the settings he has selected on his jb4.

 

[Mangimadang]

I've had boost ready on (all the time) on both of my ECU's. I had to get a remap because I changed the factory primary downpipes to high-flow aftermarket. I haven’t experienced any overboost issues either way. It's weird Twn2rbro is experiencing boost spikes in his charge pipe. He said he set his Jb4 to cut boost beyond 24lbs. But pressures that high are never passing beyond the throttle body. So the intake manifold and combustion chamber are never seeing that kind of pressure. Still I can see how some would be concerned about seeing that kind of pressure in the charge pipe. I thought I read somewhere in this thread that spikes in the charge pipe is nothing to be worried about according to Lozic. But I'm to lazy to go back and find where I read that.

-edit- I read it on N54tech.com Difference between Boost and Boost 2? - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
But I would like to hear what Lozic has to say about boost spikes in the charge pipe.

I don't think the Lozic ECU is actually recognizing a overboost event in Twn2rbro situation. I think it's the settings he has selected on his jb4.

He doesn’t have the EWG wires so I’m not sure exactly how he is controlling boost. I thought you had to have the EWG wires to actually control the waste gate, therefore controlling boost.

 

[HoosierStinger]

He doesn’t have the EWG wires so I’m not sure exactly how he is controlling boost. I thought you had to have the EWG wires to actually control the waste gate, therefore controlling boost.

Confirm something is amiss. Would be nice to see the log

 

[Mangimadang]

Confirm something is amiss. Would be nice to see the log

Agreed. But pushing high 20’s def doesn’t sound good though.

 

[HoosierStinger]

Agreed. But pushing high 20’s def doesn’t sound good though.

Could be headed for problems with that kind of pressure even if it's only in the charge pipe.

Have you made any progress with your problem?

 

[Mangimadang]

Could be headed for problems with that kind of pressure even if it's only in the charge pipe.

Have you made any progress with your problem?

For sure, I am curious in what the issue really is for him, I hope Lozic is able to figure it out for him.

Well, went at it with an Acura the other day and it didn’t sputter. Lozic made the boost curve a little less aggressive. The sputtering doesn’t happen as much as it used to. He told me it would be normal with the little bit of sputtering below 3500 rpm due to the amount of boost that is being thrown in there.

 

[HoosierStinger]

For sure, I am curious in what the issue really is for him, I hope Lozic is able to figure it out for him.

Well, went at it with an Acura the other day and it didn’t sputter. Lozic made the boost curve a little less aggressive. The sputtering doesn’t happen as much as it used to. He told me it would be normal with the little bit of sputtering below 3500 rpm due to the amount of boost that is being thrown in there.

Idk dude to me you shouldn't have sputtering. Maybe I should consider myself lucky that I haven't run into issues YET! And I hope it stays that way.

The only time I've have sputtering issues is if my E mixture is to high with cooler/cold weather. It was that way with my oem ecu as well. Anytime I've experienced that issue filling up with only 93 (diluting the E mixture in my tank) the problem resolved itself. Maybe I should install a flex fuel sensor.

 

[SneakerB]

I have a 1.4bar 93 octane lozic tune. Under WOT I see 20-21lbs of boost, with having seen a "Spike" go to 23lbs once, and only once. Considering how much "logging" ive done to try and get my tune just right (That's another story that doesn't need to be told, but lozic has been amazing to work with and not only is super knowledgeable but is also totally willing to make any revisions requested of him, as long as its physically possible)

Im convinced that something is wrong with the tune that was sent to Twn2rbro was funky, and id bet my wheels on it that lozic is doing everything he can to make it right.

as @AtomicGTL said, you probably want to get a JB4 first, which can be acquired used for at most 2/3rds the cost of new, and play around with those maps first to see if your logs from map 1/2 look good. Then, if the car still doesn't feel fast enough you can spring for an ECU tune and run the JB4 in logging mode on map 0. Once you do that, not only will the JB4 be able to log for you, but it will also be a good solution down the road if you decide you want to run WMI in your car, as Burger also makes a kit that plugs right in to the JB4.

I have a question for you though, would this be your first mod power wise? and are you looking for faster launches, faster rolling acceleration, or both? cuz if you are only looking for faster/harder launches at first, a TCU tune by any of the big players (Lozic/Lap3/Tork, Yes, I did include tork in this because even though he is a drama queen, his TCU tune is not only reliable, but its his safest product as well) would be a good starting point. They are cheaper than an ECU tune, are just as easy to install, and can reliably take 0.4-0.5 seconds off your 0-60/0-100 time even with what would be considered a "Stage 1" TCU tune.

just my 2 cents though.

yea i have 1.5 bar with boost ready all rpms and never see anything over 21.5 but i also have jb4 ewg wires and wastegate set to 40 so far its ran great i would like to know why you get a flat 1.5 on the timing when wot though.

 

[SneakerB]

Turn on Bin 0, 4, 5, 6. The Bins is in even in Map 0. No need to take out JB4. Still good to have

i dont think you should turn on bin 5 as its good to have wastegate control

 

[Pearly]

yea i have 1.5 bar with boost ready all rpms and never see anything over 21.5 but i also have jb4 ewg wires and wastegate set to 40 so far its ran great i would like to know why you get a flat 1.5 on the timing when wot though.

Do you have bit0 on or off?

 

[SneakerB]

Do you have bit0 on or off?

youd want that on as you want the ecu tune to control your fuel not the jb4

 

[Corleone1]

Bit0
Turn on to disable JB4 fuel control or if optional fuel wires are not installed.

 

[Pearly]

youd want that on as you want the ecu tune to control your fuel not the jb4

But you prefer JB4 to control Wastegate and not ECU though? Just to protect overboost?

 

[Corleone1]

An tuned ECU should manage all boost. My overboost terrible (with tuned ECU) if i use JB4 and not turnoff EWG by click on Bit 5 so advice is that, turn off. For Bit 0 I use JB4 to manage my AFR by leaning out as most ECU runs to rich, no need to run under 12 with direct inj. engines, wont increase safety, just make people to boost more than they need as power goes down at under at least 12,5 in Afr.

Suggestions tuned ECU:
Bit 0 off to tune fuel some leaner with Bit 1 and numbers from 130-125 down to like 120
Bit 5 on to disconnect any other/further boost in any way
Bit 6 turn on for ECU flash other than stock

Use JB4 safety in all bits like to put Bit2, Bit4 Off and put boost safety at 22-24 Psi. To be sure this will be also with other ECU, run Map 6 (JB4) with no boost so the Bits is in working. Makes tuned ECU xtra safe as I have tried ECU that can boost 30 Psi without shut down. Not good.

Use boost 2 to log in JB4, real boost in intake, not peaks before trottle as boost 1 will show with trottle closing.

 

[Corleone1]

Seems also another thing to be... Aftermarket intakes isnt any better, just for sound. Stock with like KN filter will take the air from front and is a lot better/cooler than filter in engine room, especially if you run car most in town. Also circulation BOV back in intake will make some better respons when going on after let offs. Stock works at very high power. So also here, opens BOVs just for sound, not power.

Sorry for off topic but want just all here have as good and safe cars that possible.

 

[SneakerB]

But you prefer JB4 to control Wastegate and not ECU though? Just to protect overboost?

as alot of people are having overboost without it! If it runs fine without ewg then dont use it but it will fix any overboost and i run a perfect 21.8 psi of boost in the charge pipe and manifold (boost1 & boost2)

 

[SneakerB]

An tuned ECU should manage all boost. My overboost terrible (with tuned ECU) if i use JB4 and not turnoff EWG by click on Bit 5 so advice is that, turn off. For Bit 0 I use JB4 to manage my AFR by leaning out as most ECU runs to rich, no need to run under 12 with direct inj. engines, wont increase safety, just make people to boost more than they need as power goes down at under at least 12,5 in Afr.

Suggestions tuned ECU:
Bit 0 off to tune fuel some leaner with Bit 1 and numbers from 130-125 down to like 120
Bit 5 on to disconnect any other/further boost in any way
Bit 6 turn on for ECU flash other than stock

Use JB4 safety in all bits like to put Bit2, Bit4 Off and put boost safety at 22-24 Psi. To be sure this will be also with other ECU, run Map 6 (JB4) with no boost so the Bits is in working. Makes tuned ECU xtra safe as I have tried ECU that can boost 30 Psi without shut down. Not good.

Use boost 2 to log in JB4, real boost in intake, not peaks before trottle as boost 1 will show with trottle closing.

You just needed to fine tune your wastegate numbers if you were overboosting with ewg wires on. But if you dont overboost not using them then dont but i suggest keeping an eye on boost 2 on jb4 to make sure your charge pipe boost numbers arent through the roof!

 

[Pearly]

Alright peeps.. I’m getting a lot better at reading logs. After 4 tunes I think I finally have it somewhat dialed in. Anyone please chime in with opinions on what looks good and what looks not so good. (Just look at map6) it’s a shorter log but here it is. Also lozic said he purposely tricks the speed. I did not ask why.

 

[HoosierStinger]

Not the fastest Stinger out there but I'm happy considering no meth or piggyback. Just the Lozic ECU+TCU on a E16 fuel mixture (93+E85) with a good launch.