Lets talk tuning, piggy back vs ECU flash.

Definitely interesting. He has shared more scattered around the forums. I know there was some problem with power during shift and they figured that out and the chart looked way different afterwards. May be worth checking those old charts vs what's on the market vs the new charts.

Also they figured out something on the top end to do with airflow I think. It seemed the muffler or intakes were wrecking power up top. I don't know if the tune changed there though.
We have figured out transmission shift management, and we will be expanding more into the transmission tables each day. Hopefully, when Stage 2 tune is finished, we will have a great 11.7 car that is still running under 20 lbs of boost.
 
I have been doing automotive for over 30 years
Your profile says you're 28? LOL! The other "Tork" guy with hardly any posts, which started this thread, is 48. I'm just curious.
 
@TorkMe Yep, I meant full load, they are the “catastrophic” knocks haha.

But that is some fantastic information.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I mean, this thread... There's some useful things here, and some obvious jump-to-conclusions defensive and passive aggressive jabs going on... obviously...

But if you must know, tuning is more skill than it is hardware. I've known people running HPTuners tune their own cars on the streets better than a dyno tuning shop doing it for 20+ years. If you have the aptitude, spend the time, run tests, and have the scientific method down better than just a hunch, I think you (as in anyone) can tune a car. Tuning is the same as racecar drivers: it's 90% tuner; 10% hardware.

Whether you do this with an ECU tune or a piggyback chip won't really matter as much as it seems. There will be advantages to both (for example, the ECU tune is able to manage parameters not normally accessible "externally" via a chip simply altering values, but the chip can be removed with little evidence left behind [though, keep in mind, there is ALWAYS evidence, ALWAYS), but at the end of the day, a finely tuned ECU or chip is capable of "safe" power. One will edge out the other in one area, and another will have abilities the other cannot. I have always found that a skilled tuner is the key. One of my older cars had a canned tune in it from a one-man shop guy that was basically a nobody, but it was LOADS better than the "big company" one that not only had some terrible tuning behaviors, but a terrible support team that instead of trying to fix the tune turned to bullying me into returning it.

Soooo, what I say to this is that it's not what you pick, it's who you're picking it from. Go for an ECU tune, or go for a piggyback. But pick the vendor that seems to be demonstrating actual extensive testing/skill in what they're doing.

Granted, someone might say, "but all of the vendors seem to know what they're doing!" and/or "the car hasn't been out long enough for us to find out who's what!", but I can tell you right now that if you spend the extra time to look closely, you can tell where different vendors' interests lie. They all need to make money, such is the way of business, but the manner in which they present their product says a lot about their view of the car and its owners.

Happy tuning/chipping! :p
 
I mean, this thread... There's some useful things here, and some obvious jump-to-conclusions defensive and passive aggressive jabs going on... obviously...

But if you must know, tuning is more skill than it is hardware. I've known people running HPTuners tune their own cars on the streets better than a dyno tuning shop doing it for 20+ years. If you have the aptitude, spend the time, run tests, and have the scientific method down better than just a hunch, I think you (as in anyone) can tune a car. Tuning is the same as racecar drivers: it's 90% tuner; 10% hardware.

Whether you do this with an ECU tune or a piggyback chip won't really matter as much as it seems. There will be advantages to both (for example, the ECU tune is able to manage parameters not normally accessible "externally" via a chip simply altering values, but the chip can be removed with little evidence left behind [though, keep in mind, there is ALWAYS evidence, ALWAYS), but at the end of the day, a finely tuned ECU or chip is capable of "safe" power. One will edge out the other in one area, and another will have abilities the other cannot. I have always found that a skilled tuner is the key. One of my older cars had a canned tune in it from a one-man shop guy that was basically a nobody, but it was LOADS better than the "big company" one that not only had some terrible tuning behaviors, but a terrible support team that instead of trying to fix the tune turned to bullying me into returning it.

Soooo, what I say to this is that it's not what you pick, it's who you're picking it from. Go for an ECU tune, or go for a piggyback. But pick the vendor that seems to be demonstrating actual extensive testing/skill in what they're doing.

Granted, someone might say, "but all of the vendors seem to know what they're doing!" and/or "the car hasn't been out long enough for us to find out who's what!", but I can tell you right now that if you spend the extra time to look closely, you can tell where different vendors' interests lie. They all need to make money, such is the way of business, but the manner in which they present their product says a lot about their view of the car and its owners.

Happy tuning/chipping! :p
I agree with everything in your post, but the part about street tuning.

Tuning with pre-made map indexes via COBB, HPTuners. UpRev, Diablo, SCT, BullyDog, ect... the work has already been done. Maps have been give priority, maps have been sorted, and have been verified and tested. Do you want to know what all those companies have in common? They all have a dyno :)

I agree that a very large % of it is skill, but when doing tune development with no map index or DAMOS file, its is imperative to have a dyno. Its a must, in order to see whats happening inside the ECU real time with each change. You cannot watch the laptop on the street and if you have someone else driving, if there is a problem in the live data, by the time you have reached over to hit them in the arm... its to late.

I tune with COBB, Diablo, SCT, UpRev, GIAC, REVO, AEM. MegaSquirt, Link, ect and that format of tuning has verylittle trial and error. When starting with nothing, its all about data collection. The test, fail, test fail, test, success and repeat over and over and over until you have sorted the proper maps, and transfer files.
 
I agree with everything in your post, but the part about street tuning.

Tuning with pre-made map indexes via COBB, HPTuners. UpRev, Diablo, SCT, BullyDog, ect... the work has already been done. Maps have been give priority, maps have been sorted, and have been verified and tested. Do you want to know what all those companies have in common? They all have a dyno :)

I agree that a very large % of it is skill, but when doing tune development with no map index or DAMOS file, its is imperative to have a dyno. Its a must, in order to see whats happening inside the ECU real time with each change. You cannot watch the laptop on the street and if you have someone else driving, if there is a problem in the live data, by the time you have reached over to hit them in the arm... its to late.

I tune with COBB, Diablo, SCT, UpRev, GIAC, REVO, AEM. MegaSquirt, Link, ect and that format of tuning has verylittle trial and error. When starting with nothing, its all about data collection. The test, fail, test fail, test, success and repeat over and over and over until you have sorted the proper maps, and transfer files.

Hmmm? You can just buy HPTuners. There's nothing in it. You have to run your car, look at the maps/logs you took, and basically tune the whole car from scratch. Sure, the programming part of gathering the data is there for you, but you still have to learn to look at the mapping, and fine tune it all yourself. It's not a canned tune situation at all. There are people who buy it, and then spend weeks learning about it online and asking the pro tuners for help, and there are courses out there to help train people on how to tune, and some of the more dedicated LS folks would take a tuning course just so they could do it for themselves.

Having said that, that was an example of me watching someone on the street take the time to tune something themselves rather than let a shop (which many LS tuning shops use HPTuners specifically FOR) do a better job. As the saying goes, "no one will care about your car as much as you do". :laugh:

Of course, this is where, as a business, you could really make your money. If you write an "HPTuners" application for the Lamdba II engine and whip up the necessary brackets/wiring, you could be rolling in the dough as tuners start buying your program and hardware to tune clients' Stingers, etc. Of course, I'm keenly aware of how difficult that actually is with newer cars, but hey, you're a step closer than anyone else right now other than Korean tuners who basically don't come here (so we really don't know how much farther they likely are, considering one of them already managed to fit larger turbos). :thumbup:
 
Hmmm? You can just buy HPTuners. There's nothing in it. You have to run your car, look at the maps/logs you took, and basically tune the whole car from scratch. Sure, the programming part of gathering the data is there for you, but you still have to learn to look at the mapping, and fine tune it all yourself. It's not a canned tune situation at all. There are people who buy it, and then spend weeks learning about it online and asking the pro tuners for help, and there are courses out there to help train people on how to tune, and some of the more dedicated LS folks would take a tuning course just so they could do it for themselves.

Having said that, that was an example of me watching someone on the street take the time to tune something themselves rather than let a shop (which many LS tuning shops use HPTuners specifically FOR) do a better job. As the saying goes, "no one will care about your car as much as you do". :laugh:

Of course, this is where, as a business, you could really make your money. If you write an "HPTuners" application for the Lamdba II engine and whip up the necessary brackets/wiring, you could be rolling in the dough as tuners start buying your program and hardware to tune clients' Stingers, etc. Of course, I'm keenly aware of how difficult that actually is with newer cars, but hey, you're a step closer than anyone else right now other than Korean tuners who basically don't come here (so we really don't know how much farther they likely are, considering one of them already managed to fit larger turbos). :thumbup:
I can buy HPTuners and all the maps are present, all the maps are labeled. The maps have critical information as to what they do. Hell, they even have a file sharing system with pre built tunes.

I have none of that, I have no maps, I have no index. I have an empty bianary... just 0 and 1. Or, I can look at it in HEX 2d format and pick out what looks familiar and work my way forward from there.

This is why a dyno is so critical for this stage of tune development. Without a dyno, and live data/emulator it would be near impossible to verify what the changes are doing to the car. Not only that, but doing it on the street would be very dangerous.

Tuning with pre made map indexes is a day or two long process, even on a new platform. Tuning the Stinger took me 2 weeks, just to make Stage 0 tune and 3 months to get the Stage 1 finished... still working on the Stage 2 tune, going in 5 or 6 months now.

Cracking the RSA encryption on the OBDII port, uhg... much better people are in the community for doing that, and it may very well take a bench flash like the new Dodge and GM ECU's in order to unlock the port flash option. So shipping the ECU to us may still be required.

The time I have spent in the ECU is crazy, but the rewards are starting to show up in the results we are getting.
 
Hmmm? You can just buy HPTuners. There's nothing in it. You have to run your car, look at the maps/logs you took, and basically tune the whole car from scratch. Sure, the programming part of gathering the data is there for you, but you still have to learn to look at the mapping, and fine tune it all yourself. It's not a canned tune situation at all. There are people who buy it, and then spend weeks learning about it online and asking the pro tuners for help, and there are courses out there to help train people on how to tune, and some of the more dedicated LS folks would take a tuning course just so they could do it for themselves.

Having said that, that was an example of me watching someone on the street take the time to tune something themselves rather than let a shop (which many LS tuning shops use HPTuners specifically FOR) do a better job. As the saying goes, "no one will care about your car as much as you do". :laugh:

Of course, this is where, as a business, you could really make your money. If you write an "HPTuners" application for the Lamdba II engine and whip up the necessary brackets/wiring, you could be rolling in the dough as tuners start buying your program and hardware to tune clients' Stingers, etc. Of course, I'm keenly aware of how difficult that actually is with newer cars, but hey, you're a step closer than anyone else right now other than Korean tuners who basically don't come here (so we really don't know how much farther they likely are, considering one of them already managed to fit larger turbos). :thumbup:
Oh, and larger turbos mean nothing without results :)
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
John, question regarding the transfer cases. Are these commanded through the ecu? If so, are you able to adjust within the ecu the front to rear ratio? I've read on another forum you can disable the transfer to the front wheels ans run in rwd mode. Not sure how true that is
 
John, question regarding the transfer cases. Are these commanded through the ecu? If so, are you able to adjust within the ecu the front to rear ratio? I've read on another forum you can disable the transfer to the front wheels ans run in rwd mode. Not sure how true that is

You pull a fuse for that to work, there is probably a way to set it since the drive modes control some of the bias as well. May not have modifiable yet.
 
John, question regarding the transfer cases. Are these commanded through the ecu? If so, are you able to adjust within the ecu the front to rear ratio? I've read on another forum you can disable the transfer to the front wheels ans run in rwd mode. Not sure how true that is
Transfercase control is active in the ECU, but a tune is not required to disable it. There is a fuse under the hood that can be removed to take the car from AWD to RWD. Just pull it for RWD mode, and install it for AWD mode. Doesn't trigger any check engine lights and takes 60 seconds to do.
 
Transfercase control is active in the ECU, but a tune is not required to disable it. There is a fuse under the hood that can be removed to take the car from AWD to RWD. Just pull it for RWD mode, and install it for AWD mode. Doesn't trigger any check engine lights and takes 60 seconds to do.

Safe to run on a dyno in RWD mode?
Wasnt sure if disabling AWD in eco would be a benefit for fuel economy when map switch tuning is available.
 
Safe to run on a dyno in RWD mode?
Wasnt sure if disabling AWD in eco would be a benefit for fuel economy when map switch tuning is available.

I have not tried it yet, I always pull the front drivline to be safe.

It will not be an option for map switching, for legality reason.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I can buy HPTuners and all the maps are present, all the maps are labeled. The maps have critical information as to what they do. Hell, they even have a file sharing system with pre built tunes.

I have none of that, I have no maps, I have no index. I have an empty bianary... just 0 and 1. Or, I can look at it in HEX 2d format and pick out what looks familiar and work my way forward from there.

This is why a dyno is so critical for this stage of tune development. Without a dyno, and live data/emulator it would be near impossible to verify what the changes are doing to the car. Not only that, but doing it on the street would be very dangerous.

Tuning with pre made map indexes is a day or two long process, even on a new platform. Tuning the Stinger took me 2 weeks, just to make Stage 0 tune and 3 months to get the Stage 1 finished... still working on the Stage 2 tune, going in 5 or 6 months now.

Cracking the RSA encryption on the OBDII port, uhg... much better people are in the community for doing that, and it may very well take a bench flash like the new Dodge and GM ECU's in order to unlock the port flash option. So shipping the ECU to us may still be required.

The time I have spent in the ECU is crazy, but the rewards are starting to show up in the results we are getting.

They must have certainly improved that thing since about a decade ago when I was going to buy one *shrug* lol
 
______________________________
I've been through the piggyback/ECU tune/ECU replacement on two other cars already in my life. With the Stinger, if I'm impatient, I'll do a quality piggyback. But there will come a day when I drive all the way out to the west coast for an ECU while keeping my OEM one stock.

John, a question - today's stock ECUs can adjust for fuel octane, I'm certain the Stinger's does as well. I'll be driving on 92/93 octane all the time. But I'm wondering if your tune could leverage the sensors and logic already built in to adjust for when I choose to dump 4 gallons of E85 in with my 93 octane, for instance. Thoughts?

Please keep up the great work! I check your Youtube channel constantly hoping for updates!
 
Safe to run on a dyno in RWD mode?
Wasnt sure if disabling AWD in eco would be a benefit for fuel economy when map switch tuning is available.

I have ran them on a RWD dyno when testing, so yes. I believe it turns off the front axle in smart or eco mode. Thought I read that somewhere.
 
I've been through the piggyback/ECU tune/ECU replacement on two other cars already in my life. With the Stinger, if I'm impatient, I'll do a quality piggyback. But there will come a day when I drive all the way out to the west coast for an ECU while keeping my OEM one stock.

John, a question - today's stock ECUs can adjust for fuel octane, I'm certain the Stinger's does as well. I'll be driving on 92/93 octane all the time. But I'm wondering if your tune could leverage the sensors and logic already built in to adjust for when I choose to dump 4 gallons of E85 in with my 93 octane, for instance. Thoughts?

Please keep up the great work! I check your Youtube channel constantly hoping for updates!
Yes, the octane and ethanol maps will adjust inside the ECU. It will only allow up to E30 because it doesn't have a flex fuel sensor. Anthing higher than 30%-40% will trigger a check engine light.

Keep in mind that the octane increase takes drive time to adapt also. Do not put 3 gallons of E85 in while you are at the track. Typically it will take around 100 miles for all the corrections to adjust inside the ECU.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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