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Discussion in 'Kia Stinger Lighting - Inside and Out' started by ctu_2, Jun 22, 2018.
Sure, are there any areas you wanted me to focus on?
Not particularly, maybe a wide shot with the doors open
Friend of mine, the best auto electrician which I know, installed those scuff plates without any drilling just using holes left after stock plates. Also he was able to find wires and connect each scuff plate separately to proper door lock contact so every scuff plate lights on only when corresponding door is opened. So it was installed PERFECTLY and all wires completely HIDDEN, no drilling was required and "SMART ON" for every scuff plate, not the puddle light connection used. Will attach set of photos and video later when I have time for that.
Would love to see a video.
Do you know where he tapped the power from? You say door lock contact.
Did he have to remove door panels? Did he tap in where the wires go from the door to the body? Or from within the car?
Can u confirm what wires he found to use. Thanks much appreciated
Would love to see a video of the installation. But photos will work as well.
Idk what the problem is. I thought that is what a forum was for...I do know there are diy videos on here and the scuff plate is one. I am new too!
> Did he have to remove door panels?
Yes, initially he removed driver's door panel to find proper wires, I seen that part, but didn't see the whole process. He said that initially he thought to connect scuff plate wires to those contacts right in "big black door connector" after he find proper contacts during door panel remove. But after that, as he said, he found the same wires in big chunk of wires which goes along doorstep under rubbers and plastic panels (you know). So he attached to those. He didn't remove any other door panels he said. Same with passenger side. For rear doors he disassembled left and right vertical panels on pillars (beside seat belts) to get to the wires. Most wires had same colors but one of the door doesn't. Mostly it was "blue" negative, for positive he connected to fuse box with additional fuse for the whole installation, I seen it there, dunno how he could do that for all of them, maybe only driver's one done in that way, others differently, sorry dunno that.
Also about drilling: maybe I remember it wrong and there was drilling, but only on the inner side of the doorstep where the wires go to be able to get wires from the inner of the doorstep (can't ask him atm). Inner non-visible part of the doorstep. All was properly sealed after that.
> Would love to see a video
Sorry, that's not a video of installation, unfortunately Just a video of final result. Some photos show installation process though.
I contacted him, asked about those things:
- positive contact is from the fuse box for all of them
- blue wire was only in driver's door, in other places other colors were used (he doesn't remember others)
- doorsteps were drilled down (i.e. literally down) right through the hole which left after stock scuff plates removal he said
- "needle" was used to find required wires without need to cut every of them to find the proper one
Ok, photos are there https://www.drive2.ru/l/513998597314838886/ You can use Google translate if interested Text there is mostly the same as I wrote above.
Excellent that helps a lot.
Thanks for sharing
That looks amazing. It also looks really complicated with the wiring
Is that it, 3 spots to unscrew to take the whole door panel off?
Yes, he knew what he was doing. I thought that it's hard to remove too, but it appeared easier than I thought.
Heads up for those doing the scuff plate install, I tapped the wires from the passenger foot well light and to be sure I checked with a multimeter and it only pulls 7v, which is one issue and the second is that the yellow+red stripe wire actually was my negative while the brown+black was the positive so be wary when doing your wiring
Did it still light up with 7v? I have ran into the same thing yesterday and i couldnt ever get them to light. Where did you wire yours from?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes it did light up after I realised that the polarity was the wrong way. Using a multimeter I could confirm that it was the correct way and it didn't light so i turned on the car, locked and then unlocked and it turned on. Maybe wasn't enough voltage?
I tapped from the passenger side footwell light for both. I couldn't get the driver side one off for the life of me. Not sure if it's power related but sometimes half of the LED scuff runs at a different sequence to the other half
I have the exact same issue....low voltage at both passenger and drivers side footwell lights. I'm able to get the small back seat LEDs to light but the front larger ones aren't getting enough juice. Far cry from the 12V required.
Anyone else been able to work around this problem? Are there any other of the interior lights that run 12V?
Although BobR's install is by far the best without knowing what each wire is the ground I don't feel comfortable with this option.
I finally went direct into the fuse box for power. Then found a ground to run to both sides as well. This worked perfectly! Let me know if you need anymore information. Good Luck.
Thanks J North!
I figure that is the only option for me as well. Connect all the positives together to an empty fuse in the box. Then I'm thinking of connecting the grounds of each side together so if you open the front doors, both the front and back light up.....Or did you connect to the individual (4) grounds?
From the pics it looks like a LR is pink, RR blue, LF blue but which ground is RF? If you had any more specifics of the wire colors that would be amazing! Saves a lot of time checking voltages