LED scuff plates

I finally had time to install these scuff plates. I was able to hide the wires. It was a bit more work, but very worth the result. I'll take you through:View attachment 9993 View attachment 9994 View attachment 9995 View attachment 9996 View attachment 9997 View attachment 9998 View attachment 9999 View attachment 10000 View attachment 10001

So the plates are made of acrylic so I just used a razor to score them a bit in order to pop out a small opening in the bottom rather than the side. Then I used some heatshrink and silicone to seal and clean them up. Not necessary, but I like a little extra protection. Then I drilled a hole directly under where the scuff plate cable would slide down into. And another on the inside where the cable bundle hides (pictured). I then fished the cable through the 2 holes, and there you go! Most difficult part was drilling those 2 holes, but really not a big deal.

Hope this helps!
can u change the color of the led light?
 
No, you choose the color when you purchase them. They had red, blue, and white when I checked.
 
@Big Ern, your pics help a lot. And the blue would go perfectly on my Micro Blue, with the accent lights set to blue...
Now you all really have me thinking.
 
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That definitely looks a lot cleaner albeit a lot more prep work. I'd like to see how people install the scuff plates on the rear side. It's a lot curvier so I think you'll need to heat up and bend the plates.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Robz32, for drilling the holes I started with a 1/8" and worked up from there to a 1/4", but if you have a step bit, that would probably work better. It was pretty tedious, but worth the extra time.

And Manchu, you're right, the rear is more difficult. Not so much the bending, because they're fairly flexible, it's that it looks like it won't be easy to fish them through. I still haven't decided if I'm going to do them.
 
For fishing the wires through, here's an idea I just heard of. Put a string though one hole and place a shop vac hose on the other hole. The vacuum may be able to pull the string right through and then tie your wire to the string and pull it through.
 
That a pretty good idea, I bet that would work! You may have just convinced me to do the rears. Thank you
 
That a pretty good idea, I bet that would work! You may have just convinced me to do the rears. Thank you
Hi @Big Ern ,
Do you know if that one you installed is actually that manufacturer or not [기아] 스팅어 ? I seen installation video from another guy and animation looks not so smooth as on that video
eBay listing has link to that video as well but that could be different products...
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yes, that's from same seller i.e. should be the same quality as for that guy. Hmm... Animation is more twitchy in comparison to the Youtube link they have in description ... because manufacturer is different I think, smells like a trickery... but it's cheaper, yes. I'm already received my package, didn't install yet. Now a bit disappointed, because it will not animate so smoothly as on the video they have in description :(
 
You're absolutely right. The movement is satisfactory at best.
 
I finally had time to install these scuff plates. I was able to hide the wires. It was a bit more work, but very worth the result. I'll take you through:View attachment 9993 View attachment 9994 View attachment 9995 View attachment 9996 View attachment 9997 View attachment 9998 View attachment 9999 View attachment 10000 View attachment 10001

So the plates are made of acrylic so I just used a razor to score them a bit in order to pop out a small opening in the bottom rather than the side. Then I used some heatshrink and silicone to seal and clean them up. Not necessary, but I like a little extra protection. Then I drilled a hole directly under where the scuff plate cable would slide down into. And another on the inside where the cable bundle hides (pictured). I then fished the cable through the 2 holes, and there you go! Most difficult part was drilling those 2 holes, but really not a big deal.

Hope this helps!


Nicely done, I am thinking if you did run the wire from the bottom and from under the plate then you could have used the all climate foam tape to cover the gap instead of silicon sealant. this is what I am going to do.
thanks for the pictures
 
Nicely done, I am thinking if you did run the wire from the bottom and from under the plate then you could have used the all climate foam tape to cover the gap instead of silicon sealant. this is what I am going to do.
thanks for the pictures
That's a great idea too. Glad I could help.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
i assume all four door scuffs will light up together by opening any door, right?
 
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can u change the color of the led light?
Hi, Did you drill hole on the outside or used the existing opening that are used for the clips of the existing scuff?
 
I drilled a new hole. But I will say, I think you could probably route the wire under the led strip to one of the existing clip holes. The wire is pretty thin.
 
Any more finished pics?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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