Kia Stinger Break In Discussion

[Spaghetti Sandwich]

I know this is sometimes causes a bit of a debate but I'd like to know what process people will use to break in their Stinger. I don't necessarily need to know what is the best way because that's where arguments happen. I just want to know what you are going to do. Some people just drive and don't think about it because they say it's already broken in at the factory. Others point out that there's a procedure in the owner's manual and there must be a reason for it. So let me know what you plan to do or what you are already doing.

 

[Kia Stinger]

Me PERSONALLY, I'll probably just drive easy for the first one or two thousand miles. I don't worry about not staying at the same highway speed for too long, changing up speeds or whatever. I just drive nicely, under seventy miles per hour and don't beat on it. That's how I typically drive. I do see people say they like to FLOG it right out of the showroom and there are some good points about doing that. I understand where those people are coming from. However, I never drive like that anyway.

Sure, I'll race every so often or put the pedal to the metal at the race track every now and then - but I typically take good care of my cars and drive normally everywhere I go. Rarely do I need to push my car. But I do here and there... Anyway, I don't feel beating the car up in the beginning makes sense when that's never how I treat my cars anyway...

 

[Taimaishoo]

As I've heard so often, "Drive it like you stole it!". I don't necessarily agree, I can't disagree either. I agree with @Kia Stinger . Keep things nice and comfortable, with an occassional wide open throttle (WOT) just to stretch the legs, so to say.

After the first 1,000, I would also change the oil with what you will be keeping in the car. There are many arguements to what kind and brand, I won't get into that, but personally I would recommend a pure synthetic. Just remember, however, the closer you get to a pure synthetic, the more expensive the oil is.

During the break-in period, the parts are working and stretching and getting used to their new enviorement and there will probably abnormal metal shavings and such in your oil. The oil filter probably catches 99.9% of this but remember, you are now adding twin turbos to the mix that the engine oil also lubricates and keeps cool. More moving parts = more debris in the oil. I would recommend an oil change every 3000-5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. The harder you drive, the more dustier your enviroment is, etc, the sooner you should have your oil changed. While some oils advertise 6,000 or 10,000 miles before changes, I wouldn't go that far between oil changes. Again, your enviroment and driving habits are key factors in how often you should get your oil changed.

As far as oil filters are concerned? I would go with the dealership filters. These filters have been tested and beaten on these specific engines. If you change the oil yourself, talk with the dealership and see if they can sell you the filters, or maybe check online. Just be very careful about knock-offs online.

 

[Jenny Wang]

As I've heard so often, "Drive it like you stole it!". I don't necessarily agree, I can't disagree either. I agree with @Kia Stinger . Keep things nice and comfortable, with an occassional wide open throttle (WOT) just to stretch the legs, so to say.

After the first 1,000, I would also change the oil with what you will be keeping in the car. There are many arguements to what kind and brand, I won't get into that, but personally I would recommend a pure synthetic. Just remember, however, the closer you get to a pure synthetic, the more expensive the oil is.

During the break-in period, the parts are working and stretching and getting used to their new enviorement and there will probably abnormal metal shavings and such in your oil. The oil filter probably catches 99.9% of this but remember, you are now adding twin turbos to the mix that the engine oil also lubricates and keeps cool. More moving parts = more debris in the oil. I would recommend an oil change every 3000-5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. The harder you drive, the more dustier your enviroment is, etc, the sooner you should have your oil changed. While some oils advertise 6,000 or 10,000 miles before changes, I wouldn't go that far between oil changes. Again, your enviroment and driving habits are key factors in how often you should get your oil changed.

As far as oil filters are concerned? I would go with the dealership filters. These filters have been tested and beaten on these specific engines. If you change the oil yourself, talk with the dealership and see if they can sell you the filters, or maybe check online. Just be very careful about knock-offs online.

Something about driving it like I stole it would make me feel too guilty. I couldn't bear to hurt my car like that. So I hope that's not the best way to break in a car. For warm ups I just give it 20 or 30 seconds before I take off in the winter. For my Optima they never told me anything about the break in oil. I just went in for a regular first oil change after a few months. I do remember them telling me after that oil change that they used thinner oil. I typically know stuff like this because my father and brother are car nuts more so than I am. But I never thought about break in outside of just driving normally without beating on the car for a few thousand miles.

 

[JeffAsfbay]

Well, here is what the Kia Stinger Owner's Manual says:

VEHICLE BREAK-IN PROCESS

No special break-in period is needed. By following a few simple precautions for the first 600 miles (1,000 km) you may add to the performance, economy and life of your vehicle.
• Do not race the engine.
• While driving, keep your engine speed (rpm, or revolutions per minute) between 2,000 rpm and
4,000 rpm.
• Do not maintain a single speed for long periods of time, either fast or slow. Varying engine speed is needed to properly break-in the engine.
• Avoid hard stops, except in emergencies, to allow the brakes to seat properly.
• Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km) of operation

So this is what Kia says - it looks rather generic, and I am mildly amused that the first part says that there is no special break-in period required, but then goes on to list five things that may "...add to the performance, economy and life of your vehicle."

If you feel like it, here's a video regarding break-in that sounds authoritative - opinions always welcome

and here's one specifically for turbo engines (this video is not talking only about break-in):

Based on this information, I'd want to order my Stinger and hope that no one drives it hard between the factory and the time I drive it away.

 

[Chris]

Well, here is what the Kia Stinger Owner's Manual says:

VEHICLE BREAK-IN PROCESS

No special break-in period is needed. By following a few simple precautions for the first 600 miles (1,000 km) you may add to the performance, economy and life of your vehicle.
• Do not race the engine.
• While driving, keep your engine speed (rpm, or revolutions per minute) between 2,000 rpm and
4,000 rpm.
• Do not maintain a single speed for long periods of time, either fast or slow. Varying engine speed is needed to properly break-in the engine.
• Avoid hard stops, except in emergencies, to allow the brakes to seat properly.
• Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km) of operation

So this is what Kia says - it looks rather generic, and I am mildly amused that the first part says that there is no special break-in period required, but then goes on to list five things that may "...add to the performance, economy and life of your vehicle."

If you feel like it, here's a video regarding break-in that sounds authoritative - opinions always welcome

Based on this information, I'd want to order my Stinger and hope that no one drives it hard between the factory and the time I drive it away.

It's funny because there is a school of thought out there that racing the engine sometimes during the break-in is key to longevity and better performance.

 

[JeffAsfbay]

That may be, and I have heard that - it has to do with making sure the rings seat properly, and has to do with both the type of rings, and the fineness of the cylinder wall honing. Regarding the latter, what that means basically, is how smooth the cylinder walls are. I wish I could remember more from the 70's when my friends with their 426 hemi engine rebuilds. My feeling is that the advice to flog the engine to get the rings to seat properly applies only to specific rings with specific cylinder wall honing.

But if you watch the first video, you discover that various high-performance car company's engineers recommend very specific conservative break-in measures.
1) Nissan GTR (don't exceed 50% throttle, keep it under 3,500 RPM for the 1st 300 miles)
2) Corvette (same thing, no full throttle starts, keep it under 4,000 RPM - they have a break-in process for the 1st 1,500 miles)
3) FCA performance division person (Charger & Challenger with the Hemi - advice was less specific but definitely against the idea of a hard break-in)
4) Acura NSX (the factory does the break-in of the engine in at the factory for the owner using a special process that varies the load, keeps the RPMs below 4,000, and so on)

So the guy's point in the video is that if these engineers, who know a heck of a lot more about the engine and how to get maximum performance and longevity, say one should follow conservative rules, I'm going to believe them over the non-specific unsourced advice to drive it hard.

And lastly, the Stinger manual is clear how to get the best performance and longest life out of your engine - I posted the steps previously. I think this speaks for itself.

 

[Kia Stinger]

That may be, and I have heard that - it has to do with making sure the rings seat properly, and has to do with both the type of rings, and the fineness of the cylinder wall honing. Regarding the latter, what that means basically, is how smooth the cylinder walls are. I wish I could remember more from the 70's when my friends with their 426 hemi engine rebuilds. My feeling is that the advice to flog the engine to get the rings to seat properly applies only to specific rings with specific cylinder wall honing.

But if you watch the first video, you discover that various high-performance car company's engineers recommend very specific conservative break-in measures.
1) Nissan GTR (don't exceed 50% throttle, keep it under 3,500 RPM for the 1st 300 miles)
2) Corvette (same thing, no full throttle starts, keep it under 4,000 RPM - they have a break-in process for the 1st 1,500 miles)
3) FCA performance division person (Charger & Challenger with the Hemi - advice was less specific but definitely against the idea of a hard break-in)
4) Acura NSX (the factory does the break-in of the engine in at the factory for the owner using a special process that varies the load, keeps the RPMs below 4,000, and so on)

So the guy's point in the video is that if these engineers, who know a heck of a lot more about the engine and how to get maximum performance and longevity, say one should follow conservative rules, I'm going to believe them over the non-specific unsourced advice to drive it hard.

And lastly, the Stinger manual is clear how to get the best performance and longest life out of your engine - I posted the steps previously. I think this speaks for itself.

I agree entirely. None of these engineers or brands want their cars to perform less than their capable of performing. They want you to get what you paid for. I'll stick to the manufacturers suggestions...

 

[SEA Stinger]

As sales of the Stinger ramp up and more new owners join the forum, this topic deserves a bump.

Here are a couple of additional suggestions for the break-in period:
1. Use Sport Mode. That will help you keep the engine within the 2,000-4,000 RPM range, as advised. Comfort Mode and Economy Mode tend to shift too early to keep the revs up enough.
2. Avoid prolonged idling.
3. If possible, avoid long periods of driving in stop-and-go traffic.
4. Make each trip least 20 minutes, to allow the engine to fully warm up.

Also, be aware that for the first 100 or so miles, you may notice an acrid smell coming from the engine compartment. My dealer said that the smell is caused by burnoff of a protective coating that was applied to protect the machinery during shipping across the Pacific Ocean.

 

[CO-bound]

I would say I broke mine in fairly gently. I didn't even go full throttle until I passed 1000 miles. My salesman took a ride with me after I took delivery (I got the first one that arrived and he'd never been in one) and kept egging me to punch it but I ignored him.

Hopefully being gentle with it will help it perform better down the line.

 

[Devang Patel]

So should I wait 1000 miles or 3000? Hearing both numbers being tossed around.

 

[Never thought]

So should I wait 1000 miles or 3000? Hearing both numbers being tossed around.

The manual says 600. So 600. Just keep it in sport mode to keep it between 2k and 4K rpm

 

[Kia Stinger]

So should I wait 1000 miles or 3000? Hearing both numbers being tossed around.

Welcome aboard, @Devang Patel! Thank you for signing up!

 

[Michael Goodness]

The manual says 600. So 600. Just keep it in sport mode to keep it between 2k and 4K rpm

This is good advice that I wish I'd read literally 1000 miles ago. Will keep it in Sport for the next 500 or so, just to be safe.

 

[mldavis2]

I've always gone out on a deserted road or limited traffic 4-lane highway and simply vary my speed up and back, keeping the RPM below 2,000 for the first 500 miles, then gradually spin it up a bit, still trying to maintain varying speeds up to 1,000 miles. City driving is OK if you don't get stuck at lights (use the engine shut-off if you do) because you are changing engine RPM constantly. The worst thing I think you can do is take a new car out on the highway and set the cruise control to one speed and just drive. That's why I would never, ever accept a car driven from one dealership to another to fill an order because that's how the guy driving the car will drive - as fast as possible.

I've owned a number of new cars (including those listed below). I was a GM-Subaru-BMW service manager many years ago, and a GM Certified Master Technician (although I didn't turn wrenches except on my own cars.) Never had an engine problem except head gaskets on my GM Quad-4's. Never had an engine use oil between changes. Just my own biases....

 

[voon]

Break in is controversial ... I've seen people say to basically go full throtthle right from the start tu burn in the cylinders of sorts, which can't happen at later stages. Personally, I take it easy on the first 2000 at least.

 

[mldavis2]

Break in is controversial ... I've seen people say to basically go full throtthle right from the start tu burn in the cylinders of sorts, which can't happen at later stages. Personally, I take it easy on the first 2000 at least.

Well, I'm a retired chemist, and although metallurgy was not my field of expertise, I do understand a bit about dissimilar metals and the crystalline structure interfaces between them. I also realize that today's manufacturing tolerances are much finer than a few decades ago.

But not all contact surfaces are perfect with a uniform oil film between them. There are high spots that need to wear in gradually or "polish" and that is best done at lower temperatures at lower RPMs. If two surfaces do have a high spot (not too likely but still possible), high RPM will generate higher heat at that friction spot and the possibility of metal-shearing is greater.

As with my other cars, it takes a lot of my will power to wait for a couple of thousand miles before finding out what WOT will do. But my results have been well worth the self-discipline. In the end, it's your car -- do with it what you will -- but you're better off listening to the experts and factory engineers who built the thing.

 

[JeffAsfbay]

Break-in shouldn't be controversial - read my early post regarding what manufacturers advise for break-in procedures for cars like:
1) Nissan GTR (don't exceed 50% throttle, keep it under 3,500 RPM for the 1st 300 miles)
2) Corvette (same thing, no full throttle starts, keep it under 4,000 RPM - they have a break-in process for the 1st 1,500 miles)
3) FCA performance division person (Charger & Challenger with the Hemi - advice was less specific but definitely against the idea of a hard break-in)
4) Acura NSX (the factory does the break-in of the engine in at the factory for the owner using a special process that varies the load, keeps the RPMs below 4,000, and so on)

#4 is especially revealing. They would *never* spend the money to do break-in at the factory if it wasn't important. Just because someone told you that you needed to "break it in hard" to properly seat your rings in your new engine (I've heard this too back in the 1970's with regard to the Mopar 426 Hemi motor) shouldn't trump what the manufacturer tells you to do. I think it's actually pretty simple when all is said and done.

 

[Gdank]

 

[voon]

No break in period is required, but do this for the next 1000KM? I guess "Break In" has various definitions? Most people usually see the RPM limitation as "break In".

Sounds a bit like saying "No water is required for this soup powder, but hold it under a flowing water tap for the first 20 seconds after the powder is in the bowl."