Kia Australia Bi Modal Exhaust SOUND

[fendushi]

Just wanted everyone's input here on those with the Kia bi modal exhaust in Australia to give members here and accurate description on the sound before wacking on the extra thousands on the purchase price.

Why did you decide to go for that option? Do guys love it? Or regret paying extra for it?

How would you describe the sound?

I have it on my MY20 GT. I decided to go for it because I know I will be happier with it and I do not want warranty headaches if I install an aftermarket exhaust. The salesman who is a friend was actually trying not to sell me this exhaust because he said the dealer doesn't make any money on them.

To me, it sounds like a 200sx with a massive exhaust from INSIDE the cabin with the sound enhancer OFF and windows up. I would describe it as..... farty! LOL! Deep sounding farts!

I did rev it in a tunnel with the windows down and it does sound LOUD and decent from the tunnel echo. Definately doesn't sound like farts when driving with the windows down.

But with the sound enhancer ON, it sounds SUPER satisfying!!! The combination of the natural deep sound of the exhaust and the enhancer gives a very pleasing revving sound. The sound from the enhancer actually doesn't sound fake at all, I don't think it's pre recorded as I don't notice any similar patterns in the sound. The patterns sounds different everytime I rev it. It's definately sounds like natural engine noise (ie the actual engine noise from the car you are driving) that is enhanced inside the cabin. I'm not sure if it's a similar technology like the soundaktor on the Golf R, but however Kia is doing it, it definately works and sounds good!

When you drive it normally with the enhancer off or even on, it sounds like a quiet GT car with the occasional deep burble during shifting of gears. You will only hear the exhaust full potential when you rev it OR in sports mode.

If you want this thing to sound like an AMG, HSV or S series with cracks and pops, this exhaust definately does not do that. To date, I have never heard a Stinger in real life or on YouTube with an exhaust that sounds as good at the Mercs, Audi or HSV that cracks and pops.

What do you guys think? Have I described the sound accurately?

 

[Nasscar]

I wouldn't be without the Bi-modal. All the reviews I read prior to buying my Stinger stated the standard exhaust was too quiet. I listened to some Utube videos and I liked the sound of the Bi-modal. I would say it is more like a trumpet sound when you get in the higher rev range. Also even when idling, it has a deeper bassy sound than standard. Love it. Some of those AMG V8 exhausts sound fantastic but different engine, different sound. I'm not complaining. Can't afford one of those anyway. I always thought Snap crackle pop was some sort of breakfast cereal.

 

[jraj7995]

I had the bimodal thrown in free as the demo I bought they quoted it without the cost of the bimodal but it already had it on there so I scored a bargain.

Given that I was recently rear ended by a ute and had to get the exhaust replaced I have heard both the old bimodal by Lumens and the newer bimodal, which I currently have, and both are fart-y with the fuse pulled, but the new one less so and I can daily it with the fuse pulled. I have also done the SSR secondary pipes and resonator delete on the X pipes so there is a good burble and gurgle on downshift but no pop.

Compared to stock without the bimodal, yes it is an upgrade but given the choice and price I would probably go for something like MBRP or JT if I had to do it from scratch

 

[fendushi]

That's excellent info guys, keep them coming!

I had the bimodal thrown in free as the demo I bought they quoted it without the cost of the bimodal but it already had it on there so I scored a bargain.

Given that I was recently rear ended by a ute and had to get the exhaust replaced I have heard both the old bimodal by Lumens and the newer bimodal, which I currently have, and both are fart-y with the fuse pulled, but the new one less so and I can daily it with the fuse pulled. I have also done the SSR secondary pipes and resonator delete on the X pipes so there is a good burble and gurgle on downshift but no pop.

Compared to stock without the bimodal, yes it is an upgrade but given the choice and price I would probably go for something like MBRP or JT if I had to do it from scratch

I didn't know there was an older model exhaust. The dealer left the fitting instructions in my glovebox, might check it out to see if there is a revision number.

I just came back from shopping at Coles and was in an empty indoor carpark. Got to say the sound echoing actually sounds decent.

 

[jraj7995]

I have considered setting up a camera somewhere just to hear whether people hear a fart cannon coming through or something actually decent but...effort

 

[fendushi]

I have considered setting up a camera somewhere just to hear whether people hear a fart cannon coming through or something actually decent but...effort

Or you can do what I did if you are curious, go to an empty indoor carpark at night. Windows down and floor the thing and listen!

 

[fendushi]

So I have noticed a few days ago that my exhaust is rattling occasionally on low revs, I first noticed it when I was at the drive through and the noise that echoed off the wall sounds like a metallic "zing" when accelerating from a complete stop.

I pulled over to check where the rattling came from, it seems like it's only coming from the driver side exhaust. I'm not an expert but it almost sounds like the valve is rattling as the exhaust is vibrating, it's a very obvious metallic rattle. I tried to replicate this rattling noise as it comes and goes, changing to every modes and accelerating slow and fast with no consistency. I did however, noticed that I can replicate the problem more in sports mode than any other modes. It also happens a few minutes after a cold start when the car is idling, but not every time. I have managed to make a few videos to show the mechanic when I plan to take the car to a dealer to get this fixed. I have managed to record a video when the exhaust was rattling continuously when idle. The sound does go away when I accelarate or drive normally.

I have read that ShannonC had a similar issue a couple years back and Kia decided to replace the entire exhaust system:

Australia Bi-Modal Exhaust Updates

Has anybody had the xforce varex bi modal fitted and if so their opinion on it Thanks Paul

stingerforum.org

I am hoping that it just needed a quick fix although a full replacement would hopefully eliminate any issues for good.

Have any one else had similar issues? ShannonC any more problems after getting the exhaust replaced?

 

[Nasscar]

So I have noticed a few days ago that my exhaust is rattling occasionally on low revs, I first noticed it when I was at the drive through and the noise that echoed off the wall sounds like a metallic "zing" when accelerating from a complete stop.

I pulled over to check where the rattling came from, it seems like it's only coming from the driver side exhaust. I'm not an expert but it almost sounds like the valve is rattling as the exhaust is vibrating, it's a very obvious metallic rattle. I tried to replicate this rattling noise as it comes and goes, changing to every modes and accelerating slow and fast with no consistency. I did however, noticed that I can replicate the problem more in sports mode than any other modes. It also happens a few minutes after a cold start when the car is idling, but not every time. I have managed to make a few videos to show the mechanic when I plan to take the car to a dealer to get this fixed. I have managed to record a video when the exhaust was rattling continuously when idle. The sound does go away when I accelarate or drive normally.

I have read that ShannonC had a similar issue a couple years back and Kia decided to replace the entire exhaust system:

Australia Bi-Modal Exhaust Updates

Has anybody had the xforce varex bi modal fitted and if so their opinion on it Thanks Paul

stingerforum.org

I am hoping that it just needed a quick fix although a full replacement would hopefully eliminate any issues for good.

Have any one else had similar issues? ShannonC any more problems after getting the exhaust replaced?

It is hard to believe that you would need to replace the whole exhaust due to some rattle. The exhaust is only a few months old. I have had no such problems in 16 months ownership with my bimodal. Hopefully it is just a quick fix. You are in the wars at the moment with your Stinger what with the curb rash too.

 

[fendushi]

It is hard to believe that you would need to replace the whole exhaust due to some rattle. The exhaust is only a few months old. I have had no such problems in 16 months ownership with my bimodal. Hopefully it is just a quick fix. You are in the wars at the moment with your Stinger what with the curb rash too.

The car is only 3 weeks old. Lol! Curb rash and rattle aside, this car has given me so much pleasure driving it. It's such an awesome car!

It's hardly noticable if at all with the windows up. But when it rattles while it idles and I'm just behind the car... damn it's an ugly sound!

I'm glad for this 7 year warrantly that Kia Australia provides!

 

[ShannonC]

The car is only 3 weeks old. Lol! Curb rash and rattle aside, this car has given me so much pleasure driving it. It's such an awesome car!

It's hardly noticable if at all with the windows up. But when it rattles while it idles and I'm just behind the car... damn it's an ugly sound!

I'm glad for this 7 year warrantly that Kia Australia provides!

It should not rattle unless something has detached from the valve mechanism. Have a look underneath to see if anything in obvious. Here's what mine looked liked when a retaining pin failed/wasn't correctly installed.

 

[fendushi]

It should not rattle unless something has detached from the valve mechanism. Have a look underneath to see if anything in obvious. Here's what mine looked liked when a retaining pin failed/wasn't correctly installed.
View attachment 49006View attachment 49007

Thanks to your information, I think I might have found the cause.

This is what it should look like on my left exhaust which doesnt rattle, sits flush:










This is what it looks like on the right side, which occasionally rattles:





Looking forward to showing them what I found when I take it in to the dealer this Thursday. I just have to take it easy in the meantime and not push this thing on sports mode.

@ShannonC What did they do to it while you have to wait to get it replaced? Did they just take the valve mechanism off?

 

[Nasscar]

Thanks to your information, I think I might have found the cause.

This is what it should look like on my left exhaust which doesnt rattle, sits flush:

View attachment 49008


View attachment 49009





This is what it looks like on the right side, which occasionally rattles:

View attachment 49010

View attachment 49011

Looking forward to showing them what I found when I take it in to the dealer this Thursday. I just have to take it easy in the meantime and not push this thing on sports mode.

@ShannonC What did they do to it while you have to wait to get it replaced? Did they just take the valve mechanism off?

Yep that doesn't look right.

 

[ShannonC]

@fendushi
Looks to me like yours might just be a case of misalignment so hopefully an easy fix. In my case the entire actuaror dislodged causing the valve to move freely and making the same rattle you're experiencing. Initially the dealer unplugged the actuator and sought advice from KIA who insisted on replacing the entire exhaust rather than sourcing a retaining pin and a few bolts. I think it took about 2 weeks to get a new unit delivered but I was only without the car for maybe half a day.
Added another image...

 

[Coast GT]

Funny you mention a rattle, I get a metallic rattle under acceleration, sometimes cornering, sounds like it’s coming from the rear left. I don’t have the bimodal. Initially I thought it could’ve been the dreaded hatch rattle or sunroof, that’s been talked about on the forum, but it doesn’t seem to happen whilst cruising and expect both of them to rattle just from the bumps in the road. Who knows, I’ll check it out next service.

 

[fendushi]

Ok, so I've wasted an entire day getting this fixed. I after a week wait (because you have to book), I went in early morning, waited 45 mins, then got told to come back in the arvo because they don't have the parts. Then I went in the afternoon and waited 2 hours for them to get fixed. Not to mention the drive took me 45 mins each way (x4). No offer of a loan car.

So this is what it says on the paperwork:



I was wondering why it sounded loud all the time in comfort mode, I was really enjoying the exhaust with the vavles open all the time! Now that its fixed, I miss it.

@ShannonC , I read on another thread that you can pull the fuse to permamently leave the valves open?

There are limited alternative fuse options in the rear panel and I think each would serve an active purpose. If you want valves open all the time then, with engine off, take the green fuse out of the black holder and plug it into the board.
Another option could be to run a cable from the red wire up to the cabin and install a switch. This would be a lot more convenient than having to pop the boot each time you want to disconnect/connect.

So this is what my fuse box in the boot looks like:



So I have 2 green fuses on the black holder, which one do I pull out? The light green or darker green?

Seems like the location changed over the years as I remembered seeing that red cable with the black holder on the driver side fuse box.

 

[jraj7995]

I am guessing that it is because it requires a higher amperage for the increased load which is why there are two. Why not just put an inline switch?

 

[ShannonC]

@fendushi
Firstly i don't know how a valve could be missing as its located within the exhaust pipe.
I would pull the entire fuse tap and replace with light green as that's likely to draw less current so I'm thinking dark green is for Bi-modal.

 

[fendushi]

@ShannonC
Is this fully reversible? I read that someone from the same thread pulled the plug with the 2 fuses, his camera and infotainment screen stopped working.

Also I've read that you said engine on, make sure valves are open on idle, then remove fuse. But then you said engine off at the quote above, which is a later quote than the ones here:

Before start up and it will be fully open......and loud!
Edit....this was incorrect. Disconnect fuse with engine running.

Engine start, open boot, pull fuse.
Have you tried swapping light green fuse from the right of tap to where it is now?
If it still doesn't work then I believe there's an issue with connection to flap actuators so it's a trip back to dealer.

SO engine on, or off when pulling the fuse?

I'm confused!! LOL

 

[ShannonC]

@ShannonC
Is this fully reversible? I read that someone from the same thread pulled the plug with the 2 fuses, his camera and infotainment screen stopped working.

Also I've read that you said engine on, make sure valves are open on idle, then remove fuse. But then you said engine off at the quote above, which is a later quote than the ones here:





SO engine on, or off when pulling the fuse?

I'm confused!! LOL

Engine on, pull entire fuse tap (thick red wire with both green fuses), insert light green fuse and valve flaps should stay open.

 

[fendushi]

Ok so I pulled the fuse tap when engine is on and tried to pull out the light green fuse out of the black holder but it would not budge. I even tried to use a fuse puller that is on the front fusebox under the bonnet.

I put the car in reverse and sure enough, the camera doesnt show on the screen as reported by another member with the same MY20 model.

I put the fuse tap in twice with the engine still on and could hear the valves closing then opening again. Is this safe to do? Should I have turned the car off first?

I did not want to break anything after that nightmare day yesterday at the dealer so I decided to let it be for now. I just tested the reverse camera and all cameras seems to be working too. I will test other functions and report here is anything is non functioning.

Has anyone with Aussie MY20 models with bi modal done this? I think NIght Sky editions bi modal exhaust are set up the same way.