Has anyone done any successful sound proofing/deadening to the trunk area?

It is entirely subjective actually - theoretical sound pressure levels are irrelevant if they don't result in a human experiencing an improvement. This is why the dBA scale was created, rather than just using dB - the dBA scale is weighted toward human hearing ranges. Even then, some sounds are less annoying that others, even with a weighted sound pressure scale.

This sort of stuff (sound dampening solutions) is regularly installed as part of SQ-focused car audio installs because it reduces noise transmission from outside the vehicle, including exhaust and road noise, as well as reducing panel vibration, which can be a cause of unwanted sounds as well. I am sure their reasoning is legit - they're using it as the basis of winning prizes.

In the case of the Stinger, several people here have commented that it provides an improvement for them. They don't need sound pressure measurements to justify the results.
 
It is entirely subjective actually - theoretical sound pressure levels are irrelevant if they don't result in a human experiencing an improvement. This is why the dBA scale was created, rather than just using dB - the dBA scale is weighted toward human hearing ranges. Even then, some sounds are less annoying that others, even with a weighted sound pressure scale.

This sort of stuff (sound dampening solutions) is regularly installed as part of SQ-focused car audio installs because it reduces noise transmission from outside the vehicle, including exhaust and road noise, as well as reducing panel vibration, which can be a cause of unwanted sounds as well. I am sure their reasoning is legit - they're using it as the basis of winning prizes.

In the case of the Stinger, several people here have commented that it provides an improvement for them. They don't need sound pressure measurements to justify the results.

What that guy said.
 
Hmmmm... spending money my time and effort for a subjective outcome thanks but no thanks. Thanks for taking time to explain though. Also if you want to really dam sound you should put these materials on the door panels roof and entire floor of the car not just the car.
 
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Hmmmm... spending money my time and effort for a subjective outcome thanks but no thanks. Thanks for taking time to explain though.
Thats what the sound system is for ! :laugh:
 
Hmmmm... spending money my time and effort for a subjective outcome thanks but no thanks. Thanks for taking time to explain though. Also if you want to really dam sound you should put these materials on the door panels roof and entire floor of the car not just the car.

It depends on what noises you're trying to counter.

This is mostly around exhaust noise/reverbration/"drone", and most of that comes from the rear, under the floor.

Aboslutely, when doing a SQ car, the entire car is done - I've done the doors in my Subaru Liberty (Legacy for those in most other markets). In general, there's matting under the carpets (but I have seen it replaced in some cars), and really not much noise enters the car via the roof (particularly hard to line a big sunroof too).

Lining the whole car also adds a significant weight to the car - and can be expensive!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Also if you want to really dam sound you should put these materials on the door panels roof and entire floor of the car not just the car.

It's about fixing the weak (at noise blocking/preventing) part and trunk seems to weakest. In some other car, the whole car might need damping / might not need at all/ might need something. I think in Stinger trunk would be enough. Can it be improved by doing rest of the car, sure. For stinger trunk would do 60% job, if damping whole car would do 100%.
 
It depends on what noises you're trying to counter.

This is mostly around exhaust noise/reverbration/"drone", and most of that comes from the rear, under the floor.

Aboslutely, when doing a SQ car, the entire car is done - I've done the doors in my Subaru Liberty (Legacy for those in most other markets). In general, there's matting under the carpets (but I have seen it replaced in some cars), and really not much noise enters the car via the roof (particularly hard to line a big sunroof too).

Lining the whole car also adds a significant weight to the car - and can be expensive!
Humm still skeptical until someone measures decibels but you make sense.
 
I rigged up my 4runner awhile back, just the front doors. Now it sounds like I have a back door not shut all the way, I used the same amazon stuff that came folded in thirds. That might help give an idea what it does. I will end up doing the back doors and trunk area of the 4runner this summer.
One of my biggest complaints about the stinger is road noise, but I may end up going with a telluride so I dont plan of touching my GT2.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I experimented with sound proofing in a few older cars. Nothing really worked. It helps with vibrations, but the tire/road noise still comes through unimpeded. Dynamat and other similar products have been initially sold for improving the car stereo sound - esp when you have a subwoofer or big speakers in the door panels - but then they thought of widening the net and actually sell it as sound barrier as well. Well, unfortunately, in my case it didn't work.

For effective sound proofing, the sound barrier has to be OUTSIDE the car. If the tire/noise makes it to car structure, it will reverberate throughout the entire body and is almost impossible to kill.

Just for comparison: my 2016 750i registers 69 db vs 2018 Stinger GT at 73 db. Same mic, speed, road, weather, temperature, etc. The road noise is the only thing keeping me from buying the Stinger. So sexy, but so loud :(
 
Just for comparison: my 2016 750i registers 69 db vs 2018 Stinger GT at 73 db. Same mic, speed, road, weather, temperature, etc. The road noise is the only thing keeping me from buying the Stinger. So sexy, but so loud :(

Are you saying that you wouldn't buy the Stinger because of a four decibel increase? That's your reason?? Depending on the frequency, the human ear can't even perceive that change.
 
Are you saying that you wouldn't buy the Stinger because of a four decibel increase? That's your reason?? Depending on the frequency, the human ear can't even perceive that change.

I think each of us have their areas of sensitivity. You couldn't care less about noise, and I respect that. I couldn't care less about other improvements others have mentioned, like a larger infotainment screen. To each its own and that's what makes us beautiful.
That being said, I think I'm gonna end up buying it and try to improve the NVH - I need something to tinker on anyway. Besides, some discounts I read about it here are stupendous and suddenly makes me forget about the noise :) Can't wait for December.
 
@Manaz
Again, it depends on the frequency.

I can't post a link yet...but, if you're willing, search:
abdengineering+blog+perception-vs-reality
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yes, this is one reason that the dBA scale was created - as a human weighted scale.
 
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View attachment 25507 View attachment 25508 Hello all,
Just sharing my experience with the Noico mats. Purchased at Amazon, including 3 metal rollers to apply the mats and one roll of Noico tape to seal the joints. So far so good. There is a definitive reduction in road noise from the back...sounds more solid, less high frequency noise...now the empty trunk sounds like it is stuffed full with luggage.

The Noico product is easy to install. The product comes folded into thirds (see the product link further up in this thread). I've simply cut one third off, molded the material with the backing paper in place to get an outline where to cut slots to overlap into curves, trimmed the piece to size and then applied it by hand first, making sure there are no air bubbles trapped. If you get a bubble, simply puncture it and squeeze out the air and then patch the place with a bit of Noico tape.
Then apply the roller to bond the material. When the diamond pattern has disappeared the bond is complete. I've then sealed all joints with tape and rolled the tape as well.
What you see in the picture took about 3 hours to do. I did not remove the battery but the harnesses, top brace and the module on the sides.

Next are the side panels. I figure it'll take about 90 minutes each for the wheel well areas behind the side covers.
Awesome job! Looks professional. I may be interested in doing something similar. Do you know an approximate square footage used? Did you continue under the rear seats?
 
Boot and under back seat done with dynamat. Drone dramatically reduced but some vibration evident in transmission tunnel/consul still.20190607_174323.webp As they're was wires under the back seat I had to create stencils with brown paper.
 
Anybody thought to add sound damping up under the rear bumper externally. I was poking around under my car and it is a huge cavity that appears to go all the way up behind the trunk! I was quite surprised and full barrier panel lower down, just above the exhaust outlets there might stop a lot of external noise (both exhaust and road) from entering through the rear of the car.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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