Has anyone done any successful sound proofing/deadening to the trunk area?

[Thrashmetl]

Sorry I read your previous posts but did not read your name (did not match your last post with previous ones). You have much better idea than me. I just started exploring.

I was asking for thickness because if I fit both 1/2 inch thick sheets, I would end up at 1 inch total thickness. So was just trying to get an idea what can fit till it's an issue (may be to put spare in).

BAM XXL looks interesting. Can find it for 340 for 2 square meter (slightly more than 32 square feet). 32 square meter of Dynaliner + Dynamat combo would cost me 340. LUXURY LINER PRO from second skin (that would cost me $240) looks something similar (or is just barrier) but doesn't have adhesive and I assume won't be as good (as BAM XXL).

Is there something similar (to BAM XXL) that's cheaper?

PS: I don't listen to loud music, so I won't be creating vibration through sound system (if that's relevant).

We all start somewhere.

There's nothing special about me that's led to me knowing what I know - I've learned it over the years through exposure to various vehicle enthusiast groups (Nissan, Suzuki, Subaru, Volkswagen/VAG group, Subaru again, now Kia/Stinger). I have a natural interest in automotive topics (I'm just wired that way), so I've picked up a lot - but that's taken, let me see, I got my first Nissan when I was 19, and now... it's been over 20 years.



If the Dynamat Xtreme is /12" thick, then you'll need to work out the thickest Dynaliner that will fit on top of it without compromising your ability to do things like load your spare wheel. Be aware that the Dynaliner is quite compressable - a spare wheel will compress it very flat even if you choose the thickest option. Without having a Stinger yet - how much space is there between the top of the spare wheel/tyre combo and the boot/trunk floor when it's sitting in place?

If you can get a cutoff of some, you can probably test with that!



I'm not familar with the Luxury Liner Pro - but you certainly want something self adhesive, you don't want to be gluing stuff in manually.

When do do install the self-adhesive products, really make sure you follow the installation instructions - you want your installation surface REALLY clean, and you really want to get a roller for installation to press down on the product to ensure good adhesion - it won't work if it's not securely fastened to the surface you're trying to reduce sound transfer from/through.



Not sure. I chose it as a premium product (it was recommended to me by my preferred car audio installer).



Good sound insulation mean you can listen to your music softer - you get less background noise. A quiet car interior is really nice, irrespective of your music listening habits - sure, damping panel vibration helps when listening loud as well (because it stops unwanted vibrations and sound reflections), but almost any car can benefit from good sound damping (as long as you're willing to accept the weight penalty - I wouldn't do it in a dedicated track car!).

Although not a single product, I think these two may fit the bill at a much nicer price point. What do you think Manaz?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WHH7CbDNEZ3HP

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYLM47D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uIH7Cb7FXE4FK

 

[Manaz]

They look interesting - but I've no experience with Noico, so can't comment on the quality.

I do wonder how well two products will maintain adhesion over one (all other things being equal, there is twice the chance of one material losing adhesion when two are used vs one).

 

[AV8R]

As I said before two dead bodies in the trunk does the trick but if you want dead quiet you probably need three...lol

 

[AV8R]

Supercheap Auto has a 30% off special on a gift pack of dead bodies, get in quick before they smell. Sorry sell....lol

 

[AV8R]

I'm going to look into this sounds like a great idea using dynamat thanks.

 

[Wilzer]

I completely had total insulation/sound deadening in my C6 vette, doors, top everywhere. There are precut kits available, and there used to be a seller that offered installation at a very reasonable price, if you drove to his shop in Tennessee, I think it was. Anyway, wasn't cheap to have custom installer do the job but worth it for a Vette (another reason for Stinger) Here is a look at Vette Kit: Corvette Pre Cut Insulation Kit

If you want an exhausting discussion of all available products, go to www.corvetteforum.com and search sound deadening

Maybe some of the Stinger product guys could make precut kits too, Hint, Hint

 

[robz32]

Although not a single product, I think these two may fit the bill at a much nicer price point. What do you think Manaz?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WHH7CbDNEZ3HP

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYLM47D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uIH7Cb7FXE4FK

That is the exact combo I used in mine and its works great and at a much better price point.

They look interesting - but I've no experience with Noico, so can't comment on the quality.

I do wonder how well two products will maintain adhesion over one (all other things being equal, there is twice the chance of one material losing adhesion when two are used vs one).

I've been using the Noico products for a while now, on my Nissan 300ZX Z32, on my wifes G37 and now on the Stinger.
Adhesion of the product is great, the Z has had the same comobo installed for 3 years now, and performance and noise reduction are great. At the same time all panels remain covered and not one piece has fallen off due to the adhesive failing.

As with all this type of products, the key to good adehsion is preparing the panel properly.

 

[Kazz]

For those who have replaced their midpipes with the SSR or Ark with no cat, I'd think the area under the rear seat may be more important than the entire trunk. Thoughts?

 

[Ruturaj]

I'm going to look into this sounds like a great idea using dynamat thanks.

Should be better than diy dead bodies.

Although not a single product, I think these two may fit the bill at a much nicer price point. What do you think Manaz?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WHH7CbDNEZ3HP

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYLM47D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uIH7Cb7FXE4FK

They look pretty good for the price.

I do wonder how well two products will maintain adhesion over one (all other things being equal, there is twice the chance of one material losing adhesion when two are used vs one).

My concern as well. If third layer is added of mass loaded vinyl then will end up at 3 layers and more than inch thickness.

 

[Ruturaj]

Under of my cars rear seats would be interesting as they are heated seats. I assume everyone else who did under seats had non heated seats.

 

[eflyguy]

Why would that make any difference? The heating elements are built into the seat just below the surface.

 

[Ruturaj]

Why would that make any difference? The heating elements are built into the seat just below the surface.

I would be doing that part too, same as @Kamauxx

 

[RandallK]

Trunk, hatch, floor, front doors (still need to do the rear doors). I also unbolted the exhaust hangers and sandwiched damping material there to lessen energy transfer

 

[Kazz]

View attachment 25151 View attachment 25153 View attachment 25152 Trunk, hatch, floor, front doors (still need to do the rear doors). I also unbolted the exhaust hangers and sandwiched damping material there to lessen energy transfer

Good God man! Nice job!

 

[Thrashmetl]

View attachment 25151 View attachment 25153 View attachment 25152 Trunk, hatch, floor, front doors (still need to do the rear doors). I also unbolted the exhaust hangers and sandwiched damping material there to lessen energy transfer

Holy Jesus! How long did that take? I was contemplating removing the battery to get as much coverage as possible, but I have a stupid question. I have never had a car with much tech in it until the Stinger so I’m not sure of the adverse effects of disconnecting the battery. So what happens? Do all of my settings get wiped?

 

[Manaz]

Why would that make any difference? The heating elements are built into the seat just below the surface.

Correct - the heating elements are in the seat cushions, not underneath them. Putting sound deadening under the seats will have no impact on seat heating/cooling (or could in-fact improve it, as it reduces temperature transfer from below the car through the floorpan into the seats).

 

[Thrashmetl]

I wonder how much good putting some sound deadening mat and foam just on the underside of the trunk floor piece would do? Seems like it would kill quite a bit of noise since it creates somewhat of a sealed barrier between the untreated spare tire area and the rest of the car.

 

[Manaz]

It would help to prevent noise transfer - but won't dampen vibrations of the floorpan.

 

[Ruturaj]

Correct - the heating elements are in the seat cushions, not underneath them. Putting sound deadening under the seats will have no impact on seat heating/cooling (or could in-fact improve it, as it reduces temperature transfer from below the car through the floorpan into the seats).

Thanks, I wasn't clear on what he meant.

 

[Ruturaj]

I wonder how much good putting some sound deadening mat and foam just on the underside of the trunk floor piece would do? Seems like it would kill quite a bit of noise since it creates somewhat of a sealed barrier between the untreated spare tire area and the rest of the car.

It would help to prevent noise transfer - but won't dampen vibrations of the floorpan.

I am thinking about 50% cover of cld/deadener material on metal surface. And sound barrier mat like luxury liner pro under trunk floor piece.