Harmon Kardon Sound System

[MerlintheMad]

I love this place. The font of all knowledge Stinger. It is a real saver for noobs like me.

 

[AV8R]

If the USB port gets too hot it can affect sound output. I had the same thing happen when I used a small FIT USB with fast read write speeds which made it hot, went back to a 2.0 usb now it’s fine. The heat caused a loss of channel.

 

[Damien Tech]

I've been using the Stinger GT's 15-speaker Harman K system for about 3 months now. It's very good by the standards of factory systems in mainstream vehicles but it's not in the same ball-park as even a moderate after-market system.

For context, I spent about $5K on the system in my last vehicle which included a Pioneer nav unit, 5-ch JL amplifier, JBL DSP with 31-band EQ, 2xScanSpeak woofers, 2xSB Acoustics tweeters and a 10" JL low-profile subwoofer all installed in a factory-stealth arrangement.

I agree with the OP that the weakest links in the Stinger's system are the tweeters/mids. They sound extremely muddled, harsh and unable to resolve any real detail in music even after the break-in. I tried connecting an audio processor to the input while sitting in the garage and no amount of EQ can fix the issues.

The under-seat woofers are decent. They don't go very deep and they don't have much slam but they do go quite loud without distortion.

One way to improve sound is to use Android Auto with good media player software like GoneMAD which has a 10-band EQ, plays FLAC etc. (and as a bonus it shows album art on the Kia screen.) There's probably something similar for Apple Carplay. It also allows you to play any album on your phone by using the Stinger's voice command button and saying "Play <albumname>" which will seriously impress your passengers.

As much as I'd love to replace the front door speakers, I can probably live with the factory ones and I really don't want to risk introducing rattles by removing the door trim....and then there's the difficulty of finding speakers that physically fit and are a good sonic match.

So, if you're an audiophile and you're thinking of buying a Stinger, will you be happy with the factory system? Probably not but it's just barely tolerable unlike most vehicles under $60K.

 

[Waynerm002]

I wonder what the Lexicon system they install in the Korean version sound like. Is it using a different speakers or does it just get covers with the Lexicon name on it and maybe a different DSP/Amp with more settings? I’m used the HK systems having more tuning options. My BMW had more DSP modes, plus an equalizer and so does the Volvo S60 we have. I like that they gave us that system but it sucks that they took away tuning options.

I wonder if other countries have equalizers on their HK system? Anyone outside the US with equalizers on their HK system? Also those in Korea with the Lexicon system, please provide some screen shots of the setting you get to tune that system. Thanks

 

[MerlintheMad]

Hey, @StungBlueGT2, what category does @Damien Tech fall into? Is he a "2" like you, or is he a "3"?

 

[RVance]

I'm an old school audio fan. Raised on SET tubes and Quad ESL 57's. This HK system sounds great in all modes, considering today's crap digital sources. I'm not resolving my highs and mids- I'm rocking out to Twenty One Pilots and Courtney Barnett!!

 

[MackyGio]

Ok. Having heard bluetooth audio, SAT radio and over-the-air radio on this car, they all SUCK! Snuck in a personal USB 320Kbps thumb drive and it sounds way better, IMO. Personally, I would still like a little more lower frequency response but all in all, I like the system over all.

Do you use Spotify, Google music, or apple music? Im Im wonderinf how it sounds with those as I do not have audio files any longer since I switched over to google mymysic a few years ago for convenience

 

[RandallK]

It’s an ok system at best from factory.. My Stinger Is a fully sponsored SQ competition car.. I will be pulling it a part to do a winter install before next season starts.

 

[andrew tay]

I agreed with your observation. I pulled the door card out today. Its really simple to do and would not cause rattle like what your fear. The door is really well insulated like high end euro car. Tarmac coated metal, soft plastic cover etc. But the speakers are entirely different story. They are really cheap and nasty. The mid range is 3.5 inch 2.3 ohm with paper cone. The tweeter is actually nearly 4 ohm 1.5 inch silk with a decent magnet. I am wondering about that pethetic looking capacitor. I might change it to a better MKD capacitor and added a resister to see if it make any difference.
PS: install a subwoofer does make a high difference.

I've been using the Stinger GT's 15-speaker Harman K system for about 3 months now. It's very good by the standards of factory systems in mainstream vehicles but it's not in the same ball-park as even a moderate after-market system.

For context, I spent about $5K on the system in my last vehicle which included a Pioneer nav unit, 5-ch JL amplifier, JBL DSP with 31-band EQ, 2xScanSpeak woofers, 2xSB Acoustics tweeters and a 10" JL low-profile subwoofer all installed in a factory-stealth arrangement.

I agree with the OP that the weakest links in the Stinger's system are the tweeters/mids. They sound extremely muddled, harsh and unable to resolve any real detail in music even after the break-in. I tried connecting an audio processor to the input while sitting in the garage and no amount of EQ can fix the issues.

The under-seat woofers are decent. They don't go very deep and they don't have much slam but they do go quite loud without distortion.

One way to improve sound is to use Android Auto with good media player software like GoneMAD which has a 10-band EQ, plays FLAC etc. (and as a bonus it shows album art on the Kia screen.) There's probably something similar for Apple Carplay. It also allows you to play any album on your phone by using the Stinger's voice command button and saying "Play <albumname>" which will seriously impress your passengers.

As much as I'd love to replace the front door speakers, I can probably live with the factory ones and I really don't want to risk introducing rattles by removing the door trim....and then there's the difficulty of finding speakers that physically fit and are a good sonic match.

So, if you're an audiophile and you're thinking of buying a Stinger, will you be happy with the factory system? Probably not but it's just barely tolerable unlike most vehicles under $60K.

 

[RandallK]

I wouldn’t waste time on the capacitor.. most likely it’s just in place to protect the tweeter..

Hybrid Audio, JL Audio and Audio Frog all make great solutions for that midrange size

I agreed with your observation. I pulled the door card out today. Its really simple to do and would not cause rattle like what your fear. The door is really well insulated like high end euro car. Tarmac coated metal, soft plastic cover etc. But the speakers are entirely different story. They are really cheap and nasty. The mid range is 3.5 inch 2.3 ohm with paper cone. The tweeter is actually nearly 4 ohm 1.5 inch silk with a decent magnet. I am wondering about that pethetic looking capacitor. I might change it to a better MKD capacitor and added a resister to see if it make any difference.
PS: install a subwoofer does make a high difference.
View attachment 15151 View attachment 15152

 

[Doel]

I'm really conflicted on the bass on the HK system. If I'm playing something with a lot of bass, most rap/electronic music, there's more bass than I want, it really thumps. I put on some rock music, let's say Alice in Chains, Tool, or SOAD, and the bass is mostly gone. Yeah, there's a little, but not nearly enough. With rap I turn it down to 5, with rock I wish I could turn it up to 15.

Is there any way to fix it without getting subs in an aftermarket box? If I could resolve just this one issue, I would love the stock system 100%, but part of the reason I bought this car was the trunk space and I don't want a box in the back.

 

[andrew tay]

JL is 4 inch. Would not fit the 3.5 inch space. Could not get hybrid audio or audiofrog here in australia. 3 way Focal access would fit right in. What do you think? should I try?

I wouldn’t waste time on the capacitor.. most likely it’s just in place to protect the tweeter..

Hybrid Audio, JL Audio and Audio Frog all make great solutions for that midrange size

 

[andrew tay]

You might be able to change the 6.5 inch drivers in the doors to something more sensitive to give you more midbass.

I'm really conflicted on the bass on the HK system. If I'm playing something with a lot of bass, most rap/electronic music, there's more bass than I want, it really thumps. I put on some rock music, let's say Alice in Chains, Tool, or SOAD, and the bass is mostly gone. Yeah, there's a little, but not nearly enough. With rap I turn it down to 5, with rock I wish I could turn it up to 15.

Is there any way to fix it without getting subs in an aftermarket box? If I could resolve just this one issue, I would love the stock system 100%, but part of the reason I bought this car was the trunk space and I don't want a box in the back.

 

[RVance]

"I'm really conflicted on the bass on the HK system. If I'm playing something with a lot of bass, most rap/electronic music, there's more bass than I want, it really thumps. I put on some rock music, let's say Alice in Chains, Tool, or SOAD, and the bass is mostly gone. Yeah, there's a little, but not nearly enough. With rap I turn it down to 5, with rock I wish I could turn it up to 15.

Is there any way to fix it without getting subs in an aftermarket box? If I could resolve just this one issue, I would love the stock system 100%, but part of the reason I bought this car was the trunk space and I don't want a box in the back."

Chances are it's the source material. There is a wild variation in recording/engineering/mastering/bit-rate quality (file types). Don't assume that changing hardware is going to ameliorate this issue. As far as paper drivers, lots of high end manufacturers in the $20K to $50K per speaker range still use paper drivers of some formula. Not saying that the HK system is the ne plus ultra, but paper drivers per se is not an indication of poor quality. I have been an audio bug since my tube days (still use a tube driven pre-amp for my vinyl) in the '70's, and the criticism of the HK system in the Stinger is a little over-stated, IMO. I find that varying digital sources produce different levels of quality.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Chances are it's the source material. There is a wild variation in recording/engineering/mastering/bit-rate quality (file types). Don't assume that changing hardware is going to ameliorate this issue.

This. After over half a year of listening everytime I drive, I'm convinced that the level of bass output is completely dictated by the original source. I listen almost exclusively to USB sourced files, ripped from CDs, or copied from old vinyl LPs. Yooge difference in the level of bass. Typically I keep my bass set to +8, mid at +4 and treble at +1 (the high range is really sharp). I haven't moved a thing in over four months (oh, and I have the ClariFi OFF). Try it, you might like it. Mind, I don't have extreme bass content music except a handful of albums (one Thy Majestie, for example ); when I get to one of them, turning the bass DOWN is probably necessary temporarily; but the lazy way is to just turn the volume down to a civilized level.

 

[Doel]

Chances are it's the source material. There is a wild variation in recording/engineering/mastering/bit-rate quality (file types). Don't assume that changing hardware is going to ameliorate this issue. As far as paper drivers, lots of high end manufacturers in the $20K to $50K per speaker range still use paper drivers of some formula. Not saying that the HK system is the ne plus ultra, but paper drivers per se is not an indication of poor quality. I have been an audio bug since my tube days (still use a tube driven pre-amp for my vinyl) in the '70's, and the criticism of the HK system in the Stinger is a little over-stated, IMO. I find that varying digital sources produce different levels of quality.

So I did some experimenting and this is what I found. I played the same song on spotify (downloaded, max quality) vs youtube (regular stream) vs apple music (downloaded). Spotify and Apple Music went through apple carplay, Youtube just played as a media device. Youtube was noticeably better than Spotify, with Apple Music being a little better than Youtube. You can definitely hear a lot more low and mid bass with Apple Music and Youtube.

This was pretty surprising to me. So I went home, put on my studio headphones, and I'll be damned if I could tell a lick of difference between the three (aside from Apple being louder). I have a feeling that Apple Carplay is degrading Spotify and Pandora quality. I also have a feeling that this is on purpose.

 

[RVance]

So I did some experimenting and this is what I found. I played the same song on spotify (downloaded, max quality) vs youtube (regular stream) vs apple music (downloaded). Spotify and Apple Music went through apple carplay, Youtube just played as a media device. Youtube was noticeably better than Spotify, with Apple Music being a little better than Youtube. You can definitely hear a lot more low and mid bass with Apple Music and Youtube.

This was pretty surprising to me. So I went home, put on my studio headphones, and I'll be damned if I could tell a lick of difference between the three (aside from Apple being louder). I have a feeling that Apple Carplay is degrading Spotify and Pandora quality. I also have a feeling that this is on purpose.

I'm surprised out how good Amazon Music with Bluetooth sounds from my Samsung phone, which I DID NOT expect. My Apple Lossless files on my iPod Classic 160GB sound even better, but also reveal source resolution. Apple Lossless/iPod also sounds great when played on my home audio system through a Cambridge Audio DAC. But I can't tolerate Pandora or Spotify on my home system- too revealing of their crappy signal- and likewise with Sirius/XM in the Stinger. They have no regard for sound quality. Okay for news, but can't listen to music at all. I won't be renewing. Their bandwidth won't support decent fidelity with all the channels they transmit, and the compression is fully squeezing the life out of the few bytes they send.

 

[Aliboy]

This is going to sound really ridiculous but I actually prefer Apple Music via Bluetooth than USB. I know it defies logic but....

 

[MerlintheMad]

This is going to sound really ridiculous but I actually prefer Apple Music via Bluetooth than USB. I know it defies logic but....

Ears: the most subjective of all human sensory organs. We know how to describe taste with all manner of terms. But trying to describe what we hear is so much more difficult. You like what your ears like. That's the sum of it all.

 

[andrew tay]

That's easy to explain. You like the KIA's digital analogue converter better. Also you will get degradation of analogue signal through USB which is back converted to digital signal for digital signal processing which then converted to analogue again. If I am not wrong the KIAs Bluetooth supports lossless transmission APTX. So it's much better to stream through Bluetooth.

This is going to sound really ridiculous but I actually prefer Apple Music via Bluetooth than USB. I know it defies logic but....