Harmon Kardon Sound System

I'm up and down with this. :) Currently I am set at +3 for all three tones, and using "on stage". Recently I tried bass at -2 and treble at +2 and midrange at zero, and the surround "off". They all sound good regardless. But I have noticed the "harsh" quality of the treble on some music tracks. I'm seeking a compromise that works across the board, and I haven't decided yet what that is. Maybe next I'll try treble -2, mid zero and bass +2 or 3. I even tried all at +10, just for grins. And of course, you can't listen to any volume level above 4 or 5, or else it all goes to crap in my middle aged ears! :D

If you use USB, try doing what I wrote above. It's a strategy that will work for any audio playback system.
 
If you use USB, try doing what I wrote above. It's a strategy that will work for any audio playback system.
Heh, I didn't understand what you wrote. As I said, I'm no gearhead or stereo aficionado. I might have lucked out with my USB; 15 is a comfortable level for the most part. Anyway, USB is 99% of my listening source. If you could patiently explain: what are ID3 tags; what is a "sampling rate of 44.1"; how do I "control the volume steps of the car's system"; what in heck is a "constant replay gain"; how do you lower the base volume (bass?)? When the soft is too soft, I turn the volume up. When I know the loud is going to blast, I turn it down. Are you saying there is a way to avoid having to do this? Almost all my files on my USB are MP3.
 
Heh, I didn't understand what you wrote. As I said, I'm no gearhead or stereo aficionado. I might have lucked out with my USB; 15 is a comfortable level for the most part. Anyway, USB is 99% of my listening source. If you could patiently explain: what are ID3 tags; what is a "sampling rate of 44.1"; how do I "control the volume steps of the car's system"; what in heck is a "constant replay gain"; how do you lower the base volume (bass?)? When the soft is too soft, I turn the volume up. When I know the loud is going to blast, I turn it down. Are you saying there is a way to avoid having to do this? Almost all my files on my USB are MP3.

Yep, you don't have to worry about the sampling rate and what not. As long as you understand how to convert either another audio file into an MP3 file, or re-convert an MP3 again. By "base" volume, I mean the volume of the audio file when it was converted into an MP3 to begin with. I'm sure you will find that some of your songs are always louder than others. You can use free and commonly used programs that you can download from the internet that you can use to re-convert all your MP3 files so that they better match each other in volume. This can be called applying a "replay gain" to the files. Beyond making your songs better match each other in volume, so you have to adjust volume less, you can also make all your songs quieter (what I meant by lower their base volume). This way, when your car stereo plays the songs, your old system volume will now correspond to a lower playback volume. For example, if your song was previously just loud enough at 7, after you adjust the base volume by re-converting it with replay gain applied, you could have the comfortable volume at 15. This has the added effect of making each volume step smaller, so going from 15 to 16 will be less than previously going from 7 to 8. This means you have more usable range from your volume knob and finer control of your song volume.

Of course the level of replay gain you choose to apply when you re-convert your MP3s is up to you. You can lower the base volume of the songs more or less to set the comfortable listening volume at a higher or lower step. Correspondingly, the volume jumps between each step will become less and more.

The reason why so many audio playback systems become uncomfortably loud very quickly, and thus have a very small usable range in their volume knob, is because they have to account for different audio sources. Typically, if you plug into an aux jack to supply analog audio to an audio system, you'll find that suddenly you have to turn the volume way up just to make it comfortably loud. This all has to do with how much the original audio signal has been amplified and how much your car audio system amplifies it further. The audio system manufacturers have to build their system to account for different audio sources which all have different "base" volumes. In the end, 0 should be effectively mute, but max can be anything less than exploding the audio system components. Modern audio systems are built with safety features so that the system doesn't explode regardless of what you plug into it as the source, the consequence is that you're expected to have to adjust the volume knob all the time. Since you are always using USB, you can use the replay gain work around to overcome that.
 
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@atomiccow Thanks! That all made sense, and I don't even feel like you dumbed it down; just used more "layman's" language. For now, I guess I will just use the volume knob a lot. It's right there, after all, and I am used to doing that. In my livingroom system I have to adjust volume between YouTube (via WiFi), CDs, DVDs and even VHS. None of them are the same. In the car it's simpler; especially since the Medía playback allows us to set volume levels for different sources. And for me, because I seldom listen to the radio, and so far have never used CarPlay or the rest of the modern music sources that rely on all that fangled stuff that makes cell phones and the Internet work!
 
Thanks all for the info, it's much appreciated!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
:rolleyes:Lol. Its amazing how many times this conversation can go in circles, but its a shame people keep blaming the HK system... Its become a chore trying to defend it from uninformed or non-audiophile users, but I'll try to clarify one more time and apologize in advance for the lengthily explanation.

I admit I'm only a beginning level audiophile, but I was a distributor of mid-high end car audio systems and have a decent amount of experience with car audio. I also know that everyone's "ear" or preference for music quality varies so its difficult explaining to a variety of experience levels. However its become clear that there are three general groups of users that post about the HK system, so I'll try to summarize for each group.

I'll preface this by saying no disrespect to anyone at any experience level, but this is the best way I can think of to explain or relate to different audio preferences.

1) Casual listeners; minimal audio experience; bass heads, etc.—This seems to be the most common user, and also posts the most complaints. Majority of this group is unaware of the drastic differences between audio quality bitrates, and how important that factor is when comparing audio systems. They usually don’t know to use high fidelity "FLAC/lossless" audio sources, or might not have the ear to appreciate the differences. These users typically think Sony or Bose are top tier audio systems, and/or prioritize the SPL(sound pressure level) related to bass. The latter expects the under seat sub-woofers to directly vibrate the seats, which is NOT how they were designed. There are too many details to try to explain "soundstage" or "sound imaging" to this experience level, but basically the subs are downward firing and use the metal frame of the car to amplify and project the bass throughout the whole cabin(omnidirectional bass). You wont "feel" the bass under your seat, but it will seem like the bass surrounds the cabin & goes through you. For example, most songs from the "Disclosure-Settle" album in FLAC/320kbps+ audio format will shake all my mirrors and chatter my teeth together! Now I'm only talking about nice tight bass that you can feel in your chest, not booming 12"s that shake the whole block.;)

2) Beginner audiophiles(myself); years of experience; prioritizes audio detail, transparency, imaging, etc; enjoys the ability to fine tune EQ & sound modes.—This is a smaller group and typically the users that defend the HK system. We typically use high quality sources(usb) & high fidelity recordings(FLAC/320kbps) to appreciate music & our HK system. In most of our opinions the 15 speaker HK system is on par or close to the offerings from Bang & Olufsen, Burmester, Bowers & Wilkins, etc.:thumbup:

3) Expert audiophiles; highly trained & decades of in depth experience; appreciates $50k+ high fidelity home theater systems ; uses terminology I can’t follow and probably forgot more details about audio than I will ever learn!—Smallest group of users that usually won’t waste time trying to explain to us uneducated peasants.:p The few that I’ve heard from appreciate the HK system and rate it above average, but will pick apart flaws in specific aspects of audio quality.

Overall, most experienced users agree the HK system is well engineered, sounds impressive, and can be customized to fit individual tastes. After a lot of tuning I feel it usually sounds best with “On Stage” surround mode, Clari-Fi off, and EQ set to bass +8, mid +4, treble +1. Since the system is naturally bright that’s usually a good balance to feel tight bass in my chest, and still get clean vocals with crisp highs on a wide range of music.

I know everyone’s taste is different, but I plead that people take a little time to read some informative threads before complaining & disrespecting the Stingers awesome HK system!:D
 
It's great to hear all the feedback! And I totally agree about the importance of music source.

@atomiccow After I posted I was stoked to find out the Stinger can play directly from USB. I'm using NTFS filesystem for faster transfers, 16 bit FLAC @ 44.1 khz and 1411 kbs. Love the flexibility and (unlike bluetooth) I get my album covers and music info.

I ended up turning the sound stage off and put the Clari-Fi on (altho it only makes a small difference). Still trying out the sliders, and I may need to skew the treble a bit lower. I like what I'm hearing so far.
 
:rolleyes:Lol. Its amazing how many times this conversation can go in circles, but its a shame people keep blaming the HK system... Its become a chore trying to defend it from uninformed or non-audiophile users, but I'll try to clarify one more time and apologize in advance for the lengthily explanation.

I admit I'm only a beginning level audiophile, but I was a distributor of mid-high end car audio systems and have a decent amount of experience with car audio. I also know that everyone's "ear" or preference for music quality varies so its difficult explaining to a variety of experience levels. However its become clear that there are three general groups of users that post about the HK system, so I'll try to summarize for each group.

I'll preface this by saying no disrespect to anyone at any experience level, but this is the best way I can think of to explain or relate to different audio preferences.

1) Casual listeners; minimal audio experience; bass heads, etc.—This seems to be the most common user, and also posts the most complaints. Majority of this group is unaware of the drastic differences between audio quality bitrates, and how important that factor is when comparing audio systems. They usually don’t know to use high fidelity "FLAC/lossless" audio sources, or might not have the ear to appreciate the differences. These users typically think Sony or Bose are top tier audio systems, and/or prioritize the SPL(sound pressure level) related to bass. The latter expects the under seat sub-woofers to directly vibrate the seats, which is NOT how they were designed. There are too many details to try to explain "soundstage" or "sound imaging" to this experience level, but basically the subs are downward firing and use the metal frame of the car to amplify and project the bass throughout the whole cabin(omnidirectional bass). You wont "feel" the bass under your seat, but it will seem like the bass surrounds the cabin & goes through you. For example, most songs from the "Disclosure-Settle" album in FLAC/320kbps+ audio format will shake all my mirrors and chatter my teeth together! Now I'm only talking about nice tight bass that you can feel in your chest, not booming 12"s that shake the whole block.;)

2) Beginner audiophiles(myself); years of experience; prioritizes audio detail, transparency, imaging, etc; enjoys the ability to fine tune EQ & sound modes.—This is a smaller group and typically the users that defend the HK system. We typically use high quality sources(usb) & high fidelity recordings(FLAC/320kbps) to appreciate music & our HK system. In most of our opinions the 15 speaker HK system is on par or close to the offerings from Bang & Olufsen, Burmester, Bowers & Wilkins, etc.:thumbup:

3) Expert audiophiles; highly trained & decades of in depth experience; appreciates $50k+ high fidelity home theater systems ; uses terminology I can’t follow and probably forgot more details about audio than I will ever learn!—Smallest group of users that usually won’t waste time trying to explain to us uneducated peasants.:p The few that I’ve heard from appreciate the HK system and rate it above average, but will pick apart flaws in specific aspects of audio quality.

Overall, most experienced users agree the HK system is well engineered, sounds impressive, and can be customized to fit individual tastes. After a lot of tuning I feel it usually sounds best with “On Stage” surround mode, Clari-Fi off, and EQ set to bass +8, mid +4, treble +1. Since the system is naturally bright that’s usually a good balance to feel tight bass in my chest, and still get clean vocals with crisp highs on a wide range of music.

I know everyone’s taste is different, but I plead that people take a little time to read some informative threads before complaining & disrespecting the Stingers awesome HK system!:D
Bass +8, Wow! That surprises me. But you have everything else "plussed" too. And I did experiment briefly with everything at +10 (and volume only 3 or 4; I did not need more). This is the first time I've seen someone recommend turning Clari-Fi off. But if I understand your reasoning: you are not using the compressed stuff, but mostly USB sourced music, am I right? And Clari-Fi doesn't improve MP3 files; and in fact might distort them?
 
Bass +8, Wow! That surprises me. But you have everything else "plussed" too. And I did experiment briefly with everything at +10 (and volume only 3 or 4; I did not need more). This is the first time I've seen someone recommend turning Clari-Fi off. But if I understand your reasoning: you are not using the compressed stuff, but mostly USB sourced music, am I right? And Clari-Fi doesn't improve MP3 files; and in fact might distort them?
I know it seems a little excessive, but I did this after careful consideration and fine tuning. Since the HK system has very bright & crisp highs the increased bass helps balance the detail of most music. This provides significantly more punch from the subs, and helps produce a much fuller & natural sound to my music. I wouldn't recommend this for talk radio, but these setting make Rock, Hip-Hop & EDM sound amazing!

Clari-Fi is a great feature for compressed files and does an excellent job making HD Radio, Live streaming, etc. sound fuller & cleaner. However you're correct, since 90% of my music is usb & "lossless" Clari-Fi will sometimes artificially boost certain frequencies especially with "On Stage" mode on.
I ended up turning the sound stage off and put the Clari-Fi on (altho it only makes a small difference).
Just curious what benefit you noticed from turning sound stage(QuantumLogic Surround mode) off? I understand certain recordings may sound unnatural, but I feel that most music sounds too one-dimensional(directional-front left bias). Its very noticeable when I switch back and forth, and suggest trying "On Stage" mode with a song you’re familiar with. Then switch between “off” and “On Stage” so you can directly compare and see what sounds more immersive.:thumbup:

Hope this helps and have fun tuning!
 
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Just curious what benefit you noticed from turning sound stage(QuantumLogic Surround mode) off?

It's hard to quantify. One of the settings made the instruments sound like they were coming from different places, which was distracting. The other sounded a bit more distant, if that makes sense. I actually liked the "normal" sound without the added filter best, but I'll try again with a few different bands to make sure.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
This evening, I tried @StungBlueGT2's suggestion to the letter (or rather number); including turning ClariFi off. I have bass at +8, midrange at +4 and high/treble at +1. And I have to say that Conan the Barbarian (Basil Poledouris) never sounded better. I think Stung Blue is onto something with the boost in midrange and basement bass to offset the clear treble. I'm going to leave the system this way for some other examples. Right now I am satisfied with the balance. Thanks!
 
That 8/4/1 is very near my settings. When I listen to music, it's what I've selected and downloaded onto my phone via Spotify at it's highest quality levels, FWIW.
 
Surround on-stage and Clari-Fi off and it sounds MUCH better - turned the mids down a few notches too whilst I was at it. Still fiddling but getting there I think.
 
Surround on-stage and Clari-Fi off and it sounds MUCH better - turned the mids down a few notches too whilst I was at it. Still fiddling but getting there I think.
Down a few notches from what? Did you try the 8/4/1 or similar, then turn the mid down? Yes, Clari-Fi off and "on stage" selected, has been my best results for USB music.
 
First fly in the ointment today.Got in the car to go to work this AM and had no volume from the HK stereo. Turned it up to 27 still nothing, from any input called home through the stereo and that worked fine proper volume for the phone call. stoppered and=started the car no diff. got to work and shut the car off and i noticed there was some muffled bass in the background turned it up again and i had volume now but very muffled sound.. went back out at lunch time and everything was back to normal very weird....
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
First fly in the ointment today.Got in the car to go to work this AM and had no volume from the HK stereo. Turned it up to 27 still nothing, from any input called home through the stereo and that worked fine proper volume for the phone call. stoppered and=started the car no diff. got to work and shut the car off and i noticed there was some muffled bass in the background turned it up again and i had volume now but very muffled sound.. went back out at lunch time and everything was back to normal very weird....

I've had an intermittent issue with the power hatch. On rare occasions it will act like there's an obstruction and stop before fully raised or lowered. Then I apply manual persuasion and all is well again. I always wonder how well the "38 computers" are talking to each other, and if the electric steering will ever decide to turn around and take me home. :cautious:
 
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First fly in the ointment today.Got in the car to go to work this AM and had no volume from the HK stereo. Turned it up to 27 still nothing, from any input called home through the stereo and that worked fine proper volume for the phone call. stoppered and=started the car no diff. got to work and shut the car off and i noticed there was some muffled bass in the background turned it up again and i had volume now but very muffled sound.. went back out at lunch time and everything was back to normal very weird....
Same happened to me today as well. Switched to apple carplay briefly to listen to a song and got no sound. Followed the same steps you did and still nothing. Eventually went into work and came back out 2 hrs later, everything is back to normal. I then remembered seeing a post about it on facebook in a Stinger group a few weeks ago and turns out it's a known "glitch" in the UVO system that a few folks have experienced only one time and then hasn't come back for anyone. I hope I'm in the "anyone" boat :thumbup:
 
Second time since I've owned it, I've started the car and been able to get no audio from any source. After a restart, all's fine. Must be on the dot oh version of the software!
 
Got in the car to go to work this AM and had no volume from the HK stereo. Turned it up to 27 still nothing, from any input called home through the stereo and that worked fine proper volume for the phone call. stoppered and=started the car no diff. got to work and shut the car off and i noticed there was some muffled bass in the background turned it up again and i had volume now but very muffled sound.. went back out at lunch time and everything was back to normal very weird....

Same happened to me today as well. Switched to apple carplay briefly to listen to a song and got no sound. Followed the same steps you did and still nothing. Eventually went into work and came back out 2 hrs later, everything is back to normal. I then remembered seeing a post about it on facebook in a Stinger group a few weeks ago and turns out it's a known "glitch" in the UVO system that a few folks have experienced only one time and then hasn't come back for anyone. I hope I'm in the "anyone" boat :thumbup:

Second time since I've owned it, I've started the car and been able to get no audio from any source. After a restart, all's fine. Must be on the dot oh version of the software!

The audio at times goes buggy and does not play music from any source. Phone will work, the navigation will work, beeps from the UI will work. To fix it you can turn off the car and wait an hour or so or you can reset the head unit yourself.

There is a little reset button to the right of the volume knob and radio button. You'll need to hit it with a ball point pen or something and You'll be set.
 
The audio at times goes buggy and does not play music from any source. Phone will work, the navigation will work, beeps from the UI will work. To fix it you can turn off the car and wait an hour or so or you can reset the head unit yourself.

There is a little reset button to the right of the volume knob and radio button. You'll need to hit it with a ball point pen or something and You'll be set.
Must be Microsoft operating system.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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