Drone Mobile

[StingerNick]

How much did you end up paying if you don’t mind me asking everybody near me is charging over $550.

Compustar with Drone was $500 including install.

EZGO was an additional $150

A few weeks later (yesterday) I had the Aux1 and Aux2 hooked up to the seats and steering wheel for $50

The Drone LTE app remote start service breakdown to $3.61 a month if you buy it for 3 years. Worth every penny!

 

[Berzerker]

Necroing this a slight bit, but I just got mine installed as well. It was a little more expensive at around $700 installed, but I had the Compustar Blade put in instead of the DC3. They were able to program both keys for the triple-lock start (no extra fobs to carry) and it does full takeover as well.

App works perfectly, gonna trial it for a few days, but I'll most likely sign up for the 3-year basic subscription.

 

[StingerNick]

Necroing this a slight bit, but I just got mine installed as well. It was a little more expensive at around $700 installed, but I had the Compustar Blade put in instead of the DC3. They were able to program both keys for the triple-lock start (no extra fobs to carry) and it does full takeover as well.

App works perfectly, gonna trial it for a few days, but I'll most likely sign up for the 3-year basic subscription.

Awesome! I don’t have any fobs for the remote start. Just have fob for the EZGO proximity lock/unlock system. Mine remote start works with the stock kia fobs and Drone app

 

[Berzerker]

Awesome! I don’t have any fobs for the remote start. Just have fob for the EZGO proximity lock/unlock system. Mine remote start works with the stock kia fobs and Drone app

BTW, did you ever confirm which brain you had installed? Lots of people saying they went with the DC3, but my installer installed the "Blade" brain from Compustar saying I didn't need the DC3 and that the DC3 would end up being more expensive.

It does generally work, but I've noticed some wonkiness with the sequencing (takeover).

Things I've tried with the result:

1) Opening the liftgate first, no matter the progression of door opening/closing that happens after, will not do takeover properly -> Car shuts off hitting the brake (I've been told this is a safety feature, by Compustar)

2) Open the driver door and any other door before getting in and closing the driver door -> Car shuts off after hitting the brake

3) Open every single other door, then close all doors, then do normal driver sequence with brake -> Car stays on

Seems like no matter when the takeover sequence takes place (within 45 seconds, keep all doors closed, open driver door, get in, close door, hit brake), the car will stay on as long as you don't open the liftgate first, even if every other door has been opened and closed before hand.

I've also noticed one time takeover didn't properly work even with myself being the only one to get in the car and doing the sequence correctly, however, I did trigger two "blips" of the smart liftgate while walking around the trunk. Another test later with only a single "blip" did not break takeover.

Is there a *definitive* guide for all of the limitations or correct ways to sequence takeover properly? When you can/can't open certain doors, etc. Seems like takeover basically works kind of when it feels like it. Would love to get a way for it to work at least a large majority of the time.

Also, are you supposed to hold the brake for a certain amount of time or is it just press/depress quickly?

 

[StingerNick]

BTW, did you ever confirm which brain you had installed? Lots of people saying they went with the DC3, but my installer installed the "Blade" brain from Compustar saying I didn't need the DC3 and that the DC3 would end up being more expensive.

It does generally work, but I've noticed some wonkiness with the sequencing (takeover).

Things I've tried with the result:

1) Opening the liftgate first, no matter the progression of door opening/closing that happens after, will not do takeover properly -> Car shuts off hitting the brake (I've been told this is a safety feature, by Compustar)

2) Open the driver door and any other door before getting in and closing the driver door -> Car shuts off after hitting the brake

3) Open every single other door, then close all doors, then do normal driver sequence with brake -> Car stays on

Seems like no matter when the takeover sequence takes place (within 45 seconds, keep all doors closed, open driver door, get in, close door, hit brake), the car will stay on as long as you don't open the liftgate first, even if every other door has been opened and closed before hand.

I've also noticed one time takeover didn't properly work even with myself being the only one to get in the car and doing the sequence correctly, however, I did trigger two "blips" of the smart liftgate while walking around the trunk. Another test later with only a single "blip" did not break takeover.

Is there a *definitive* guide for all of the limitations or correct ways to sequence takeover properly? When you can/can't open certain doors, etc. Seems like takeover basically works kind of when it feels like it. Would love to get a way for it to work at least a large majority of the time.

Also, are you supposed to hold the brake for a certain amount of time or is it just press/depress quickly?

I have the DC3. I turn the car on with remote start, open and close any doors, get in the car with the OEM fob in my pocket and press the brake for a split second. The take over will start which flashes a tire pressure warning real quick and you hear a few chimes, then about 2 seconds later I’m able to shift into drive and start driving.

In a nutshell, I hit the brake, put my seatbelt on, and by that time the car is ready to shift into drive.

If you want to contact my installer, I’m sure they’d be fine talking to your installer.

 

[Berzerker]

I have the DC3. I turn the car on with remote start, open and close any doors, get in the car with the OEM fob in my pocket and press the brake for a split second. The take over will start which flashes a tire pressure warning real quick and you hear a few chimes, then about 2 seconds later I’m able to shift into drive and start driving.

In a nutshell, I hit the brake, put my seatbelt on, and by that time the car is ready to shift into drive.

If you want to contact my installer, I’m sure they’d be fine talking to your installer.

So you've never had the car shut off when trying to do the takeover sequence? Do you mind doing some additional tests when you get an opportunity? I may ask the shop what it would take to swap it out with the DC3 then...

 

[StingerNick]

So you've never had the car shut off when trying to do the takeover sequence? Do you mind doing some additional tests when you get an opportunity? I may ask the shop what it would take to swap it out with the DC3 then...

It’s extremely rare for it to shut off. Maybe I wouldn’t have the OEM Kia fob in my pocket or something like that.

I made a video this morning of what I do every day. I put the step-by-step process in the video description, but you can hear and see everything pretty clearly.

Video:

Headed to work now, but let me know if you need me to do any specific tests.

 

[Berzerker]

It’s extremely rare for it to shut off. Maybe I wouldn’t have the OEM Kia fob in my pocket or something like that.

I made a video this morning of what I do every day. I put the step-by-step process in the video description, but you can hear and see everything pretty clearly.

Video:

Headed to work now, but let me know if you need me to do any specific tests.

Ah so you hold the brake for a couple seconds (at least that's what it sounds like)? I'll have to see if that makes any difference. I don't get the tire pressure warning, my lights will switch to turn signal lights only, then after takeover they switch back to auto.

I don't seem to have many problems when doing basically what you do, it's when other doors need to be opened to have others get in the car is where the sequencing can get tricky. I'll see if I can get compustar to give me more info on the difference between the two brains.

Also, is yours an '18 or '19?

Update: iDataLink said the DC3 and Blades have the exact same functionality, the DC3 just has the brain built-in, but it is indeed more expensive. So any issues should be taken to the shop. If I experience any more wonkiness, I'll take it in.

Thanks for the help!

 

[StingerNick]

Ah so you hold the brake for a couple seconds (at least that's what it sounds like)? I'll have to see if that makes any difference. I don't get the tire pressure warning, my lights will switch to turn signal lights only, then after takeover they switch back to auto.

I don't seem to have many problems when doing basically what you do, it's when other doors need to be opened to have others get in the car is where the sequencing can get tricky. I'll see if I can get compustar to give me more info on the difference between the two brains.

Also, is yours an '18 or '19?

Update: iDataLink said the DC3 and Blades have the exact same functionality, the DC3 just has the brain built-in, but it is indeed more expensive. So any issues should be taken to the shop. If I experience any more wonkiness, I'll take it in.

Thanks for the help!

I press the brake for about half a second. It basically just needs to know that you have engaged the brake.

When I first had it installed, the car would try to start, but if it was a bit cold outside, the engine would try to start, but would not turn over all the way. The installer said it wasn’t getting enough power so he then wired it to a new “tack” or something that sounded like that. I honestly have no idea what he was talking about. But no problems since then.

The OEM Kia remote start is designed to turn off the car when you open the door to get in for “safety reasons”...which completely sucks. This is the main reason why I looked for an aftermarket remote start.

I think the installers have to tinker with the DC3 to make the takeover work without shutting off the car. Not saying they “hack” it, but by-pass some setting which then makes the tire pressure warning turn on...which is weird, but it works.

I also have the cool seats and heated seats/steering wheel hooked up to AUX 1 & 2 on the Drone App. It’s the BEST! Make sure they have it active on both front seats. Plus I have EZGO which locks/unlocks the car when you approach or leave the car. It give you peace of mind knowing that you’ll never forget to lock the car. Compustar discontinued EZGO, but before then I bought their very last one, plus I bought extra one as an impulse I guess. Let me know if you’re interested in extra one.

I’ll test opening all the doors and truck when I get back from work.

 

[Berzerker]

I press the brake for about half a second. It basically just needs to know that you have engaged the brake.

When I first had it installed, the car would try to start, but if it was a bit cold outside, the engine would try to start, but would not turn over all the way. The installer said it wasn’t getting enough power so he then wired it to a new “tack” or something that sounded like that. I honestly have no idea what he was talking about. But no problems since then.

The OEM Kia remote start is designed to turn off the car when you open the door to get in for “safety reasons”...which completely sucks. This is the main reason why I looked for an aftermarket remote start.

I think the installers have to tinker with the DC3 to make the takeover work without shutting off the car. Not saying they “hack” it, but by-pass some setting which then makes the tire pressure warning turn on...which is weird, but it works.

I also have the cool seats and heated seats/steering wheel hooked up to AUX 1 & 2 on the Drone App. It’s the BEST! Make sure they have it active on both front seats. Plus I have EZGO which locks/unlocks the car when you approach or leave the car. It give you peace of mind knowing that you’ll never forget to lock the car. Compustar discontinued EZGO, but before then I bought their very last one, plus I bought extra one as an impulse I guess. Let me know if you’re interested in extra one.

I’ll test opening all the doors and truck when I get back from work.

He was probably talking about the tach sense, which is what the system uses to do proper start detection. If it's too low or high, it'll detect it improperly and won't start correctly. Adjusting the appropriate range for the RPMs was probably what fixed it.

Yeah I think it's just the quirks of having an aftermarket starter. I've basically come to terms that it works 95% as well as I hoped, but that I have the peace of mind to take it in if it doesn't start performing up to spec.

I may look into getting AUX 1 & 2 hooked up if I have to take it in to get it adjusted.

Thanks again.

 

[Berzerker]

So...I feel like an idiot, but it turns out I haven't been holding the brake for long enough! I can even open the trunk first and the car stays on as long as I hold the brake for a second or so.

Really happy with this functionality now that I've figured out the quirk to getting it work properly lol. I might inquire about the Aux 1/2 tomorrow.

 

[StingerNick]

So...I feel like an idiot, but it turns out I haven't been holding the brake for long enough! I can even open the trunk first and the car stays on as long as I hold the brake for a second or so.

Really happy with this functionality now that I've figured out the quirk to getting it work properly lol. I might inquire about the Aux 1/2 tomorrow.

Oh great news! You’ve probably also helped someone in the future reading this. The Aux 1 & 2 hook ups are just as important...mainly in the winter. The installer only charged me $50 to hook it up. Make sure they do both seats! Also, if you have an iPhone and Apple Watch, you can start the car from your watch...not sure about Android though. It’s like being 007.

I just did two tests in the parking garage.

First: Opened all doors and trunk, but tapped the brake really quick and light, basically enough to make the tail lights flash. This actually turned OFF the car to my surprise.

Second: Opened all doors and trunk, but pressed the break my normal somewhere between half and a full second. The car stayed on.

Video of Second test:

Gald you have it resolved

 

[Berzerker]

Oh great news! You’ve probably also helped someone in the future reading this. The Aux 1 & 2 hook ups are just as important...mainly in the winter. The installer only charged me $50 to hook it up. Make sure they do both seats! Also, if you have an iPhone and Apple Watch, you can start the car from your watch...not sure about Android though. It’s like being 007.

I just did two tests in the parking garage.

First: Opened all doors and trunk, but tapped the brake really quick and light, basically enough to make the tail lights flash. This actually turned OFF the car to my surprise.

Second: Opened all doors and trunk, but pressed the break my normal somewhere between half and a full second. The car stayed on.

Video of Second test:

Gald you have it resolved

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's just going through the normal process of "starting the car" after you get in, so you'd hold the brake for a normal time as if you were starting it from a dead cold stop. If you were to let go of the brake immediately after hitting the start/stop button, I'm sure the car would also fail to start there too.

As for the Aux 1/2, it sounds like it's not that much work, just need to work out the price since I'm doing it after the fact, they'd probably charge me labor as well.

 

[Berzerker]

Update: Got the shop to install Aux 1/2 separately, they only charged me for an hour of labor. All works great!

 

[StingerNick]

Update: Got the shop to install Aux 1/2 separately, they only charged me for an hour of labor. All works great!

Great deal! You’ll love it in the winter...or hot summer days.

 

[Berzerker]

Great deal! You’ll love it in the winter...or hot summer days.

It's pretty great. I haven't gotten into a hot car in about a week now, I think I'd be pretty spoiled if ever didn't have this lol.

 

[Orin1185]

Hello! Can someone tell me what the DC3RX is? I have found Compustar FTDC3 and the DC3PWR harness, but I can't find the DC3RX anywhere! Thanks!

 

[StingerNick]

Hello! Can someone tell me what the DC3RX is? I have found Compustar FTDC3 and the DC3PWR harness, but I can't find the DC3RX anywhere! Thanks!

Hey send me a message and I’ll see if I can get you in contact with the shop that install everything for me. The have lots of good info.

 

[Orin1185]

Hey send me a message and I’ll see if I can get you in contact with the shop that install everything for me. The have lots of good info.

Hey Nick I don't have the ability to send messages yet, any advice on the DC3RX would be super appreciated!