Do It Yourself Kia Stinger Oil Change

[DonD]

When you remove the oil filter "container" what do you see if you look down into the base of it? Is there a sleeve or similar that you have to guide the end of the filter cartridge into? Thanks, Don

 

[JSolo]

There's a sleeve but takes a lot of force to get the filter to seat.

 

[DonD]

There's a sleeve but takes a lot of force to get the filter to seat.

I know what you mean but you slide the cap with the filter seated into the "tube" and screw it in. Is there something down in the "tube" that you must guide it into or once seated in the cap with the 27mm "nut" on it is it guaranteed to install correctly? Change is a long ways out, car is at 1200 mi but learning. Thanks, Don

 

[JSolo]

There's a similar sleeve inside the filter housing that the other end of the filter seats onto. The one on the filter cap (the part that unscrews) is relatively easy to get to seat as you have lots of room outside the car.

Such was the case at least on the 2.5t where the filter mounts vertically. I suppose this is more challenging on the 3.3 where it mounts horizontally (parallel to the ground) to the filter housing. Next time I do this I'll raise the car higher so I have a bit more room underneath.

I did my first oc at 1500 miles. Will do another one at 5K, then follow standard intervals (5-6K mi).

 

[DonD]

There's a similar sleeve inside the filter housing that the other end of the filter seats onto. The one on the filter cap (the part that unscrews) is relatively easy to get to seat as you have lots of room outside the car.

Such was the case at least on the 2.5t where the filter mounts vertically. I suppose this is more challenging on the 3.3 where it mounts horizontally (parallel to the ground) to the filter housing. Next time I do this I'll raise the car higher so I have a bit more room underneath.

I did my first oc at 1500 miles. Will do another one at 5K, then follow standard intervals (5-6K mi).

I've been doing early changes with new cars forever, had the dealer do the freebie at 550 miles. Don

 

[nhcowboy28]

I’ve never seen someone overthink an oil filter change.

 

[D.J.]

I know what you mean but you slide the cap with the filter seated into the "tube" and screw it in. Is there something down in the "tube" that you must guide it into or once seated in the cap with the 27mm "nut" on it is it guaranteed to install correctly? Change is a long ways out, car is at 1200 mi but learning. Thanks, Don

There is nothing to align or guide.

It will self center and seal on the rubber seals that are built into the filter.

Both ends of the filter or identical, with this integrated rubber seal.






Good views inside the cap here in this time linked video

 

[DonD]

There is nothing to align or guide.

It will self center and seal on the rubber seals that are built into the filter.

Both ends of the filter or identical, with this integrated rubber seal.

View attachment 66946

View attachment 66947


Good views inside the cap here in this time linked video

Thanks much. Don

 

[look30]

Sharing my experience, last oil change at dealer I suspect they never actually did anything than tighten the screw , I did my first oil change at home and the oil was super dark after 4K miles and I had a moment taking off the oil pan screw which was torqued by Shrek. Replaced the screw with Fumoto valve and added full synthetic oil and OEM filter. Now I’m confident that the engine will be much better taken care of than the fake oil change done by dealer. Just my 2c …

 

[DonD]

I’ve never seen someone overthink an oil filter change.

You may think that. I've been doing my own oil changes for 60 yrs, all of them have been standard spin on metal shelled filters. Want the first one I do to be perfect. Don

 

[DonD]

Just a thought if you change your own or oil might that not void the warranty. Apparently to have it serviced you can take it anywhere just so long as they have a certified mechanics, so I would imagine Jiffy Lube or any of the other speedy lube places would fall under that criteria . So with that being said can Kia void the warranty , if you're not a certified mechanic and you change your own oil ?

Jiffy Lube = certified mechanics??? That's a real laugher. I wouldn't let Jiffy Lube near any car I care about. Don

 

[SKStinger]

Jiffy Lube = certified mechanics??? That's a real laugher. I wouldn't let Jiffy Lube near any car I care about. Don

I agree and Kia dealers, especially in the US, are not any better. Evidenced by that over-torqued drain plug post above.

 

[DonD]

I agree and Kia dealers, especially in the US, are not any better. Evidenced by that over-torqued drain plug post above.

I let the dealer I bought my 2022 GT1 from do an oil change at 550 miles. I brought my own oil, Mobil 1 Extended Performance and watched the mechanic do the change. Shop wasn't an acceptable facility in my opinion, old, worn, mechanics in basically dirty clothes, no shop clothes with a patch sewn on like most dealerships I've dealt with etc. I went to watch and a guy came through and said I couldn't be there. I said the Service Manager said I could watch. He left.

Mechanic clearly resented me being there so I couldn't get close to the part I wanted most to see, insertion of the filter into the housing. When he tightened the drain plug I asked if he was going to use a torque wrench, he said no, just tighten by feel. Color me very unimpressed. Don

 

[777David]

Don, since you've been changing your own oil and filters, you will have no issues. The video posted in this thread is great to walk you through the procedure pretty much step by step.

I will share my experience and the only concern that I had when I did mine. At about 11:25 in the video, he talks to the new filter cartridge/cap screwing in tight to the assembly housing on the car, but doesn't show this on the video. This was the only area that I was concerned. You will have to apply pressure when you stick the new cartridge/cap into the assembly as you begin to tighten and get the threads to catch. You'll have to wiggle it around and push hard as you rotate trying to get the threads to catch. The other end of the cartridge is seating at the other end as you push and screw. As he says, it is tight from the get-go. You don't want to cross-thread it, but it will be tight. That's totally different from a traditional spin-on filter where it will continue to spin after giving a whirl! When you go through it once, I think you'll agree it isn't that bad of a job.

 

[nhcowboy28]

Don, since you've been changing your own oil and filters, you will have no issues. The video posted in this thread is great to walk you through the procedure pretty much step by step.

I will share my experience and the only concern that I had when I did mine. At about 11:25 in the video, he talks to the new filter cartridge/cap screwing in tight to the assembly housing on the car, but doesn't show this on the video. This was the only area that I was concerned. You will have to apply pressure when you stick the new cartridge/cap into the assembly as you begin to tighten and get the threads to catch. You'll have to wiggle it around and push hard as you rotate trying to get the threads to catch. The other end of the cartridge is seating at the other end as you push and screw. As he says, it is tight from the get-go. You don't want to cross-thread it, but it will be tight. That's totally different from a traditional spin-on filter where it will continue to spin after giving a whirl! When you go through it once, I think you'll agree it isn't that bad of a job.

Or.

Use the wix filter. Which is the proper size without tearing a hymen.

And doesn’t require excessive force.

 

[777David]

Or.

Use the wix filter. Which is the proper size without tearing a hymen.

And doesn’t require excessive force.

LOL! Good to know! I picked mine up at the dealer which is the OEM brand MAHLE. I'll use the WIX next time.

Didn't think about it until now, but might would have gone on easier with some lubricant on the end.

 

[HDTurbo]

Hi men. All this talk of lubrication and tearing of hymens is making my next oil change feel positively erotic. While I still use my shiny brass valve, I’m intrigued by the thought of upgrading to a top-side suck-out option. Keep it greasy…

 

[D.J.]

Hi men. All this talk of lubrication and tearing of hymens is making my next oil change feel positively erotic. While I still use my shiny brass valve, I’m intrigued by the thought of upgrading to a top-side suck-out option. Keep it greasy…

Would be great if the oil filter was up top!

 

[D.J.]

When you remove the oil filter "container" what do you see if you look down into the base of it? Is there a sleeve or similar that you have to guide the end of the filter cartridge into? Thanks, Don

This video is looking straight into the oil filter housing.

Stinger oil filter housing - 2018 3.3 TT

https://imgur.com/a/z6aFcDO

 

[DonD]

This video is looking straight into the oil filter housing.

Stinger oil filter housing - 2018 3.3 TT

https://imgur.com/a/z6aFcDO

Thanks, Don