DIY Hatch Rattle Repair

[Stingkia]

It is where the two round adjustable spacers (one on each side of the hatch) strike the body.

 

[Steve D]

It is where the two round adjustable spacers (one on each side of the hatch) strike the body. View attachment 16615

 

[Steve D]

(Oops. Wasn't ready to post...)

EFFECTIVE USE OF PLAYDOUGH:

Please see my previous post with photos. I used Playdough to evaluate the amount of clearance in the 4 points of interest (2 corner slam-stops and the 2 L-R alignment pads.

photo 1 shows playdough on L-R pads before closing the hatch.
photo 2 shows playdough was fully pushed away exposing the black plastic contact pads. Conclusion is that there must be near zero clearance there. Both sides looked same.
photo 3 shows the playdough on the corner slam-stop after closing the hatch. Playdough was about 1/16" thick indicating that there was about that much clearance when the hatch was closed. I unscrewed both slam-pads by 1.5 turns.
photos 4 and 5 show the playdough after the adjustment. Near zero clearance there after the adjustment.
The rattling was GREATLY reduced, but still occurs on bigger bumps. I have more iterations to do, but wanted to share this simple way to visualize the amount of clearance existing in your hatch control points.
Hope this helps.
Steve

 

[StingerGT68]

I simply loosened the torx bits on the two upper bumpers and the rattling is gone at least for now.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I've been using these and they work well and last about a month before they need to be swapped out.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....vinyl-surface-pads-8-per-pack.1000118804.html

I think im still going to try the washer fix over the holidays since these are really just a temporary fix and i want a permenant fix.

 

[DiabloStinger]

Get yourself some solid toolbox liners. They are like a thin rubber sheet. Take off each upper latch. Cut out two layers for each one and reattach. Works like a charm.

 

[ChiDoc]

I say just add the additional washers. I haven't had a problem since. The playdoh seems a bit much.
If you do add the washer just remember to take not of the direct of that part before you remove it.

 

[westcoastGT]

I say just add the additional washers. I haven't had a problem since. The playdoh seems a bit much.
If you do add the washer just remember to take not of the direct of that part before you remove it.

spelling ?? what do you mean ?? take note of the direction ??

 

[ChiDoc]

spelling ?? what do you mean ?? take note of the direction ??

The part you'll remove on the hatch has a slight curve to it. So be sure to reinstall in the correct direction.
I initially installed mine wrong and noticed the trunk didn't sit as flush

 

[NS_Stinger]

I did the washer fix over the holidays and the hatch sound has been totally eliminated.

Edit:
To clarify, my car had 2 thin washers on each bolt so the dealer had already tired to fix it. I replaced one of their thin washers with a thicker one and kept one of theirs. So each bolt has a thin dealer washer and a thick stainless steel washer I bought from a hardware store. The true test was this morning with no weight in the back of the car and an outdoor temperature of 14 degrees fahrenheit. Typically at that temperature the hatch would rattle easily over bumps, total silence this morning. What a relief.

 

[westcoastGT]

I did the washer fix over the holidays and the hatch sound has been totally eliminated.

Edit:
To clarify, my car had 2 thin washers on each bolt so the dealer had already tired to fix it. I replaced one of their thin washers with a thicker one and kept one of theirs. So each bolt has a thin dealer washer and a thick stainless steel washer I bought from a hardware store. The true test was this morning with no weight in the back of the car and an outdoor temperature of 14 degrees fahrenheit. Typically at that temperature the hatch would rattle easily over bumps, total silence this morning. What a relief.

Yup , this seems to be the final solution , I have 1 set of thin KIa washers and they replaced the trunk latch assembly which eliminated the "rattle" but not the "thunk" going over larger bumps .....................I'll do the extra washers this week . My sunroof frame gets replaced next week ....................Fingers crossed !!!!

 

[niceeffort]

I just turned out the two rubber stoppers to spec, an inch, per the TSB and it took care of 98% of the trunk rattle. I then got the replacement part. With the new part the trunk pops loudly when released. Much more pressure on the trunk latch.

I just had this fixed at the dealer. Trunk rattle is gone completely, but I am also noticing a loud pop when releasing the hatch. Do you think this correct? Doesn't sound right to me.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I just had this fixed at the dealer. Trunk rattle is gone completely, but I am also noticing a loud pop when releasing the hatch. Do you think this correct? Doesn't sound right to me.

The loud pop is because the latch has more force on it than it did before, it's a result of their fix since the latch is primarily where the hatch rattle comes from. It's normal but unless they added the thicker washers my bet is the sound will return for you once the bumpers screw themselves back in again, unless they did some other fix that Kia hasn't released a TSB for yet.

 

[Ucinn]

They just adjusted those bump stops for mine and the rattle is back, so going to specify Sa322 this time to get them to fix it.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I've been following this thread from the beginning. As expected, the cold weather has brought about my first hatch noise, but it is only sporadic and not repetitive; i.e. I will hear a single mild pop or bump sound from back there; I never heard anything at all when the weather is above freezing.

I'm only commenting now to put in my opinion on "fixes" that add pressure to the latch. This can't be a good thing over time. I think that the latch should be as free of upward tension as possible. Any rattling/squeaking/clicking etc. should be addressed by making sure the latch isn't loose, first of all, then making sure that the stops and side "contact pads" are fitting snuggly: I think the playdough check is brilliant . Once these questions have been satisfied, it seems to me that application of additional spacers, washers or lubricant should be kept to a minimum, or else the problem will return with a vengeance as the latch wears excessively.

While I am chiming in, I think it should be said that how we use the hatch is the single most important factor in avoiding noise producing conditions. In my humble opinion, no hatch should ever be used open to any degree whatsoever; no bungee corded loads, etc. To do so would place sideways strain on the hinge, possibly warping that contact point as the car sways sideways over curbs or even potholes! To slam the hatch is anathema. I see/hear people doing this all the time on other vehicles. It makes me cringe. I put my hatch c. six inches above the latch and let it go. If the hatch won't latch from there, something is inhibiting it. Remove whatever it is out of the way and lightly drop the hatch again. Don't EVER push down on the hatch to get it to latch over a large or protruding load of cargo.

 

[NS_Stinger]

If the dealer is "fixing" anyones hatch rattle by simply twisting and adjusting the rubber bumpers at the back that will only work as a temporary solution, the bumpers will just slowly work themselves in again.

 

[niceeffort]

They just adjusted those bump stops for mine and the rattle is back, so going to specify Sa322 this time to get them to fix it.

Looks like that is all they did for me as well, despite me specifically referencing the TSB. I just took off the pieces to check and found no new washers. That is a little frustrating. I may just go buy some washers and deal with it myself. That additional pressure on the latch doesn't seem right to me. I may try to playdough tip as well. It is great to know what is causing the rattle! It was driving me crazy.

 

[niceeffort]

The loud pop is because the latch has more force on it than it did before, it's a result of their fix since the latch is primarily where the hatch rattle comes from. It's normal but unless they added the thicker washers my bet is the sound will return for you once the bumpers screw themselves back in again, unless they did some other fix that Kia hasn't released a TSB for yet.

I checked the paperwork and they performed TSBBOD184. I did the playdough test and the strike pads on the left and right are definitely coming into close contact. I tried setting the bump stops to the lowest setting and there was still a loud pop when opening the hatch. Hopefully the additional pressure is OK, just doesn't seem right to me. The rattle is definitely gone, but I cannot visually see what was changed. Good to have a forum to discuss this. Thanks!

"NHTSA ID: 10136497
TSB ID: TSBBOD184

Tsb - service action: rear hatch rattle repair by striker adjustment (sa347) - this bulletin provides the procedure to inspect and/or adjust the rear hatch striker on some 2018my stinger (ck) vehicles, produced from september 21, 2017 throu"

 

[Steve0]

I had mine in for service and informed them that the rattle was back. After 3 hours of searching they realized that the rattle was coming from my rear spoiler, problem solved.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I had mine in for service and informed them that the rattle was back. After 3 hours of searching they realized that the rattle was coming from my rear spoiler, problem solved.

"Problem solved", how? What did they do?