Burger Tuning JB4 for Kia Stinger!

Maybe I'm incorrect, but HKS's website says that the M45's have the same heat range as the NGK 9's (which is what I thought we had):

SUPER FIRE RACING-M Series | PLUG | PRODUCT | HKS

Knowing this, besides the spark gap, what really is changed between HKS and the stock plugs?
 
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All done with the new plug install. Only took about 40 minutes total. Couple things for anyone else thinking about doing the plugs. The intake bolts do not need to be pulled out. They have a rubber retainer that holds them in the holes, all you need to do is loosen them all the way. They will thread all the way out but just push them back in until they bottom out and they will stay in place when lifting the manifold off to the side. The video Torq posted is really good but there are a few lines and a couple more bolts and clips on wiring harnesses that can be taken off to make things easier. Will run file 2 on the JB4 when I have more time and do some data logging for Burger.
 
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My hero!!!!! God I wish I had the free time as I enjoy wrenching...

All done with the new plug install. Only took about 40 minutes total. Couple things for anyone else thinking about doing the plugs. The intake bolts do not need to be pulled out. They have a rubber retainer that holds them in the holes, all you need to do is loosen them all the way. They will thread all the way out but just push them back in until they bottom out and they will stay in place when lifting the manifold off to the side. The video Torq posted is really good but there are a few lines and a couple more bolts and clips on wiring harnesses that can be taken off to make things easier. Will run file 2 on the JB4 when I have more time and do some data logging for Burger.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Has anybody been able to log and send Terry the info? Should i try and run map 1 and do the logging as requested by Terry?
If im not mistaken its 3rd gear and from 40 to 110mph, anyways i ask because i havent been able to pog and ever aince my stuttering issue i have not even attempted it, until i have tim3 to replace the plugs and gap them.
 
All done with the new plug install. Only took about 40 minutes total. Couple things for anyone else thinking about doing the plugs. The intake bolts do not need to be pulled out. They have a rubber retainer that holds them in the holes, all you need to do is loosen them all the way. They will thread all the way out but just push them back in until they bottom out and they will stay in place when lifting the manifold off to the side. The video Torq posted is really good but there are a few lines and a couple more bolts and clips on wiring harnesses that can be taken off to make things easier. Will run file 2 on the JB4 when I have more time and do some data logging for Burger.
Please keep us posted on your experiwnce after doing this, i moss running map 1, but havent yet gotten my plugs
 
Please keep us posted on your experiwnce after doing this, i moss running map 1, but havent yet gotten my plugs
If the weather holds out for tomorrow I’ll run file 2 and see what happens. Will keep everyone posted.
 
Has anybody been able to log and send Terry the info? Should i try and run map 1 and do the logging as requested by Terry?
If im not mistaken its 3rd gear and from 40 to 110mph, anyways i ask because i havent been able to pog and ever aince my stuttering issue i have not even attempted it, until i have tim3 to replace the plugs and gap them.

I think the more logs that can be provided the better.
 
Maybe I'm incorrect, but HKS's website says that the M45's have the same heat range as the NGK 9's (which is what I thought we had):

SUPER FIRE RACING-M Series | PLUG | PRODUCT | HKS

Knowing this, besides the spark gap, what really is changed between HKS and the stock plugs?
Honestly I couldn’t tell you except for the HKS is what was suggested I run. I did however close the gap to 24k on the HKS plugs. They came pre set at 26ish. I had the plugs and went thru the work to get the stock ones out so I might as well put them in. If I have any issues I’ll atleast have the stock plugs to put back in.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I ran into the same problem last week and I have to replace all 6 plugs and coils per Kia. I'm just waiting for the parts to come in. Seem to me non chip car are having issue too from what I heard from kia. To my believe thr coil is shorted out or something. I was fixing a customer car last month with thr same problem and when I install the new plug it blew out as soon as I was in boost. Then I had to order new plug and coil to fix the problem.
 
The only issue with the current logs on the JB4 is that they only contain Boost made and Boost reported to ECU, as the chip has no way of talking to the canbus until the module is made for our car to interface the JB4. So while the logs do have valid and necessary data about when you are in boost, all they can really show is that the chip is seeing the true sensor values and correctly faking alternate boost numbers to the ECU. It can't match any of that data to the other needed data when trying to troubleshoot why the car may NOT be working correctly with added boost, such as rpm, air to fuel, timing, fuel trim, or current throttle and accelerator position.

I've posted up OBDII logs of most of that data plus the max boost sensor voltage readings to Terry back on the 24th of March, but the only real thing that was said so far is what we are all looking at now, changing spark plugs and regapping to curb spark blowout.

FYI on the map 2 run I had that did not have misfire issues, MAP was reading peak 33.172psi, and at my current altitude (757ft above sea level) and air temperature (40F) atmosphere was at 14.29psi, for a total boost pressure of 18.882psi. Chip was sending a MAP reading of 27.55PSI (13.26psi boost) to the ECU.
 
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The only issue with the current logs on the JB4 is that they only contain Boost made and Boost reported to ECU, as the chip has no way of talking to the canbus until the module is made for our car to interface the JB4. So while the logs do have valid and necessary data about when you are in boost, all they can really show is that the chip is seeing the true sensor values and correctly faking alternate boost numbers to the ECU. It can't match any of that data to the other needed data when trying to troubleshoot why the car may NOT be working correctly with added boost, such as rpm, air to fuel, timing, fuel trim, or current throttle and accelerator position.

I've posted up OBDII logs of most of that data plus the max boost sensor voltage readings to Terry back on the 24th of March, but the only real thing that was said so far is what we are all looking at now, changing spark plugs and regapping to curb spark blowout.

FYI on the map 2 run I had that did not have misfire issues, MAP was reading peak 33.172psi, and at my current altitude (757ft above sea level) and air temperature (40F) atmosphere was at 14.29psi, for a total boost pressure of 18.882psi. Chip was sending a MAP reading of 27.55PSI (13.26psi boost) to the ECU.
Great info and keep up the hard work!

Just checking if I’m reading the boost numbers correctly. Are you saying the Map 2 achieves 6.882psi more boost than stock? 12 vs 18.882? I thought they explained map 1 was about +3psi and map 2 was +4?
 
Are there any drawbacks to having the plugs gapped to .24-.26 while the tune is on map 0 or removed? Or will the car running as stock?
 
Are there any drawbacks to having the plugs gapped to .24-.26 while the tune is on map 0 or removed? Or will the car running as stock?
If the plugs are gapped really close (less then 24) you might see misfire at idle. Personal opinion - I think everyone should watch some educational videos on youtube regarding this topic.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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Found this. Stinger factory plug - (NGK Iridium SILZFR7A 9G)
 
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Stock is a 7 based on that part number ( the 7 in the part number denotes the heat range)
 
Great info and keep up the hard work!

Just checking if I’m reading the boost numbers correctly. Are you saying the Map 2 achieves 6.882psi more boost than stock? 12 vs 18.882? I thought they explained map 1 was about +3psi and map 2 was +4?

On my stock pull I did right before the move to map 2, I got a peak MAP sensor reading of 28.396PSI by meter, and 26.67PSI by ecu via OBDII. That is 14.106PSI by meter or 12.38PSI by ECU of boost.

Full disclosure here: The OBDII readings are being done at approximately 3 times a second, the meter has a hold speed of 32 samples a second. Meter is reading almost directly at the sensor and through about 10ft of lead. Meter has an accuracy of 0.5% of the voltage reading, which equates to roughly +/- 0.15psi of accuracy.

My thought is the fluke meter is capturing better peak values due to its sampling rate. If I take my fluke stock vs fluke map 2 reading, we are talking about a difference of 4.776psi of boost, which is closer to what the JB4 should be doing. The OBDII numbers are closer to what the community is reflecting about the stock boost pressure.
 
Whew, you guys are getting too smart for me!
 
If the plugs are gapped really close (less then 24) you might see misfire at idle. Personal opinion - I think everyone should watch some educational videos on youtube regarding this topic.

I've rarely encountered Idle misfire on DI motors with tightly gapped plug. I run .022 gapped 8 heat range plugs on my 710WHP, 850WTQ CLS63 AMG with no perceivable impact to idle quality. Under .020 with a cold plug and cold motor, maybe, but .022-0.26 should be totally fine, and is the trade off you need to prevent spark blowout under load.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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