All done with the new plug install. Only took about 40 minutes total. Couple things for anyone else thinking about doing the plugs. The intake bolts do not need to be pulled out. They have a rubber retainer that holds them in the holes, all you need to do is loosen them all the way. They will thread all the way out but just push them back in until they bottom out and they will stay in place when lifting the manifold off to the side. The video Torq posted is really good but there are a few lines and a couple more bolts and clips on wiring harnesses that can be taken off to make things easier. Will run file 2 on the JB4 when I have more time and do some data logging for Burger.
Please keep us posted on your experiwnce after doing this, i moss running map 1, but havent yet gotten my plugsAll done with the new plug install. Only took about 40 minutes total. Couple things for anyone else thinking about doing the plugs. The intake bolts do not need to be pulled out. They have a rubber retainer that holds them in the holes, all you need to do is loosen them all the way. They will thread all the way out but just push them back in until they bottom out and they will stay in place when lifting the manifold off to the side. The video Torq posted is really good but there are a few lines and a couple more bolts and clips on wiring harnesses that can be taken off to make things easier. Will run file 2 on the JB4 when I have more time and do some data logging for Burger.
If the weather holds out for tomorrow I’ll run file 2 and see what happens. Will keep everyone posted.Please keep us posted on your experiwnce after doing this, i moss running map 1, but havent yet gotten my plugs
Has anybody been able to log and send Terry the info? Should i try and run map 1 and do the logging as requested by Terry?
If im not mistaken its 3rd gear and from 40 to 110mph, anyways i ask because i havent been able to pog and ever aince my stuttering issue i have not even attempted it, until i have tim3 to replace the plugs and gap them.
Honestly I couldn’t tell you except for the HKS is what was suggested I run. I did however close the gap to 24k on the HKS plugs. They came pre set at 26ish. I had the plugs and went thru the work to get the stock ones out so I might as well put them in. If I have any issues I’ll atleast have the stock plugs to put back in.Maybe I'm incorrect, but HKS's website says that the M45's have the same heat range as the NGK 9's (which is what I thought we had):
SUPER FIRE RACING-M Series | PLUG | PRODUCT | HKS
Knowing this, besides the spark gap, what really is changed between HKS and the stock plugs?
Great info and keep up the hard work!The only issue with the current logs on the JB4 is that they only contain Boost made and Boost reported to ECU, as the chip has no way of talking to the canbus until the module is made for our car to interface the JB4. So while the logs do have valid and necessary data about when you are in boost, all they can really show is that the chip is seeing the true sensor values and correctly faking alternate boost numbers to the ECU. It can't match any of that data to the other needed data when trying to troubleshoot why the car may NOT be working correctly with added boost, such as rpm, air to fuel, timing, fuel trim, or current throttle and accelerator position.
I've posted up OBDII logs of most of that data plus the max boost sensor voltage readings to Terry back on the 24th of March, but the only real thing that was said so far is what we are all looking at now, changing spark plugs and regapping to curb spark blowout.
FYI on the map 2 run I had that did not have misfire issues, MAP was reading peak 33.172psi, and at my current altitude (757ft above sea level) and air temperature (40F) atmosphere was at 14.29psi, for a total boost pressure of 18.882psi. Chip was sending a MAP reading of 27.55PSI (13.26psi boost) to the ECU.
If the plugs are gapped really close (less then 24) you might see misfire at idle. Personal opinion - I think everyone should watch some educational videos on youtube regarding this topic.Are there any drawbacks to having the plugs gapped to .24-.26 while the tune is on map 0 or removed? Or will the car running as stock?
Great info and keep up the hard work!
Just checking if I’m reading the boost numbers correctly. Are you saying the Map 2 achieves 6.882psi more boost than stock? 12 vs 18.882? I thought they explained map 1 was about +3psi and map 2 was +4?
If the plugs are gapped really close (less then 24) you might see misfire at idle. Personal opinion - I think everyone should watch some educational videos on youtube regarding this topic.