Burger Tuning JB4 for Kia Stinger!

[brancky3]

No. You dont chnage anything. They can be blank. Again they are set for you if you are on v7 or higher......

Mr. Debears is correct! No need to change anything.

 

[DarthVaderIX]

No. You dont chnage anything. They can be blank. Again they are set for you if you are on v8 or higher......

So before you need to change things, now we don’t need to change things, then my afr reading is off the whole time because it’s set up for fuel wires, but I don’t have fuel wires until now. Excellent!!

 

[DarthVaderIX]

No. You dont chnage anything. They can be blank. Again they are set for you if you are on v7 or higher......

Sooo it will lean it out by itself??

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

if you dont have fuel wires it wont change anything. If you have fuel wires and they are hooked up and you are on firmware 7 or higher, you dont need to change anything.

Why do I feel like I'm just repeating this over and over -_-

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Sooo it will lean it out by itself??

The jb4 will take care of monitoring and adjusting afr. If you have concerns EMAIL SUPPORT FOR ASSITANCE!

 

[DarthVaderIX]

The jb4 will take care of monitoring and adjusting afr. If you have concerns EMAIL SUPPORT FOR ASSITANCE!

Cool, because they are there right now. Lol. Isn’t the whole point of adding the wires so YOU CAN ADJUST THE AFR?!?!

 

[StungBlueGT2]

So before you need to change things, now we don’t need to change things, then my afr reading is off the whole time because it’s set up for fuel wires, but I don’t have fuel wires until now. Excellent!!

Yes as explained on the linked n54 page, older/less developed firmware prior to v7 needed values added to the “Fuel Bias” User Adjustment Settings in order for fuel wires to have any effect. However that’s when the wires were a separate add-on option.

Recent editions of the JB4 already have fuel wires included and with v7 & v8 firmware no adjustments are necessary. So the only reason your AFR reading would be off is if you intentionally didn’t connect the fuel wires, and forgot to turn “FUD 0” on like BMS instructed. See #3 in the their v7 firmware guide for details.

Sooo it will lean it out by itself??

Yes, the JB4 v7+ will automatically lean out the AFR for you.

Cool, because they are there right now. Lol. Isn’t the whole point of adding the wires so YOU CAN ADJUST THE AFR?!?!

Partially correct. The reason for adding the fuel wires is for further manipulation of the AFR, and yes users can control it themselves... However BMS developed a double-PID fuel control algorithm to automatically keep AFR at the ideal ratio around 11:1 at full boost. Anything higher and you risk burning pistons and anything lower you just waste power.

Why try to control it yourself when the experts at BMS already did the hard work for you.

Hope this help clarify your confusion and happy tuning.

 

[Metalmania82]

Hope this help clarify your confusion and happy tuning.

doubtful

 

[DarthVaderIX]

Yes as explained on the linked n54 page, older/less developed firmware prior to v7 needed values added to the “Fuel Bias” User Adjustment Settings in order for fuel wires to have any effect. However that’s when the wires were a separate add-on option.

Recent editions of the JB4 already have fuel wires included and with v7 & v8 firmware no adjustments are necessary. So the only reason your AFR reading would be off is if you intentionally didn’t connect the fuel wires, and forgot to turn “FUD 0” on like BMS instructed. See #3 in the their v7 firmware guide for details.
Yes, the JB4 v7+ will automatically lean out the AFR for you.

Partially correct. The reason for adding the fuel wires is for further manipulation of the AFR, and yes users can control it themselves... However BMS developed a double-PID fuel control algorithm to automatically keep AFR at the ideal ratio around 11:1 at full boost. Anything higher and you risk burning pistons and anything lower you just waste power.

Why try to control it yourself when the experts at BMS already did the hard work for you.

Hope this help clarify your confusion and happy tuning.

Thank you for the clarification. I appreciate it.

 

[Terry@BMS]

With v7 firmware no setting changes are needed, it assumes you'll be connecting the fuel wires. If you will not be installing the fuel wires then you'd set FUD.0 on to DISABLE fuel control.

The JB4 fuel control is dynamic and set to target around 12:1, which allows the same settings to work over a wide range of conditions, mods, ECU versions, etc, without need for fine tuning. But you can also manually adjust it if you ever need.

 

[MrSmoofy]

I'm new to all this so be gentle. I assume everyone removed the JB4 and fuel wires for every visit to the dealership. So assuming that is there a better way to do the fuel wires other than piercing the wire over and over?

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

I'm new to all this so be gentle. I assume everyone removed the JB4 and fuel wires for every visit to the dealership. So assuming that is there a better way to do the fuel wires other than piercing the wire over and over?

You leave the connection in just pull the wire out of it by unscrewing the grey cap so you are only piercing it once.

 

[MrSmoofy]

You leave the connection in just pull the wire out of it by unscrewing the grey cap so you are only piercing it once.

Thanks, wasn't sure if that was acceptable option or not but that was the first thing I thought was just leave the taps and unscrew the wire.

 

[Terry@BMS]

I'm new to all this so be gentle. I assume everyone removed the JB4 and fuel wires for every visit to the dealership. So assuming that is there a better way to do the fuel wires other than piercing the wire over and over?

Just reinstall the posi-tap in the same spot to maintain wire integrity.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

@snipe99999 I saw your post on the N54 thread about partial throttle being faster than full throttle and many have experienced the same thing. We discuss it and explain the “super spool” effect on page 106 of this thread. Here’s a couple quotes about it and still wondering why a bunch of people keep getting this benefit while others aren’t.

Yes actually, my buddy and I have both noticed the partial throttle “super spool” boost effect and been trying to replicate it ourselves. So far 40-60% throttle seems to cause that effect more often. I even read something somewhere in this forum describing that exact phenomenon.

I think they said it was something to do with BOVs staying slightly open at partial throttle. This causes the blown off boost to be recirculated back into the turbos spooling them even faster! Also, any extra boost from a chip/tune would amplify that feeling. Basically its causing an open loop turbo effect from BOV air, and is why partial throttle feels quicker under the right circumstances.

Now if only there was a way to safely cause that “super spool” boost effect on demand, that would be a cool invention.

Sorry for any confusion but what Wash and I are talking about is not directly related to the JB4 or FUD Bit settings, as it happens with that setting on or off.

However, it does give a similar feeling like max boost is available at 30-50% pedal input. However the “super spool” is most noticeable with boost target only showing around 1.5-2.5psi, even though it feels like its at 5-6psi. It doesn't happen at all partial throttle ranges, and only seems to cause the "super spool" effect within a very narrow window of pedal/throttle input. We've accidentally done it a few times, but its difficult to repeat on demand.

Another words we wouldnt want to dampen that effect, we'd love to find a way to replicate and deliberately cause the "super spool" effect.

Hope this helps and let me or washguy know if you have questions.

 

[snipe99999]

@snipe99999 I saw your post on the N54 thread about partial throttle being faster than full throttle and many have experienced the same thing. We discuss it and explain the “super spool” effect on page 106 of this thread. Here’s a couple quotes about it and still wondering why a bunch of people keep getting this benefit while others aren’t.


Hope this helps and let me or washguy know if you have questions.

This is exactly what I was talking about. I can't make it happen it just happens sometimes and I wish it was like that all the time. If I go to 100% throttle while it's happening it seems to go away.

 

[Sabz]

This is exactly what I was talking about. I can't make it happen it just happens sometimes and I wish it was like that all the time. If I go to 100% throttle while it's happening it seems to go away.

Lol same damn thing for me! Seems like 50 percent throttle sometimes pulls real hard and 100percent is that great

 

[6172crew]

I hope I'm not making the fuel wire discussion worse by asking this question. How does the stinger know what afr is current has, does the JB4 use wideband, or does the car has a wideband o2 sensor installed by the factory? I thought the target was closer to 14, why use 12? I am asking these questions because I live at over 7000ft, and most tunes are not setup properly for us, we end up having to use med or low grade fuel up here so we dont get rich codes, which is what happened to my RS6. My E63 tune sucks up here, like little to no low end now. We can run tons of timing up here but most tuners ignore all this and send me the same tune you get in FL or TX. I am in the middle of installing a wideband setup in the E63 so the tuner can see what I get up here, which is the only way for me to get a proper tune. We do have a couple of dynos in Albuquerque so that is the other way, but both are expensive.

 

[brancky3]

I hope I'm not making the fuel wire discussion worse by asking this question. How does the stinger know what afr is current has, does the JB4 use wideband, or does the car has a wideband o2 sensor installed by the factory? I thought the target was closer to 14, why use 12? I am asking these questions because I live at over 7000ft, and most tunes are not setup properly for us, we end up having to use med or low grade fuel up here so we dont get rich codes, which is what happened to my RS6.

The Stinger uses a wideband and the JB4 reads the AFR from the ECU - it then adjusts the mixture to be a little bit leaner when using fuel wires. 12 seems to be the best mix of power and safety on turbo cars and is pretty universally used across different platforms nowadays.

If you bought the logging tools (bluetooth or hard cable) Terry could help you to modify the AFR to your needs / elevation

 

[Adamdan]

I hope I'm not making the fuel wire discussion worse by asking this question. How does the stinger know what afr is current has, does the JB4 use wideband, or does the car has a wideband o2 sensor installed by the factory? I thought the target was closer to 14, why use 12? I am asking these questions because I live at over 7000ft, and most tunes are not setup properly for us, we end up having to use med or low grade fuel up here so we dont get rich codes, which is what happened to my RS6. My E63 tune sucks up here, like little to no low end now. We can run tons of timing up here but most tuners ignore all this and send me the same tune you get in FL or TX. I am in the middle of installing a wideband setup in the E63 so the tuner can see what I get up here, which is the only way for me to get a proper tune. We do have a couple of dynos in Albuquerque so that is the other way, but both are expensive.

14.7 is target for idling and Cruising. 12 is for full throttle.