Brake pad deciphering

[Sanjay R]

So I can't find any evidence that hawk or stoptech makes pads for the stinger when I use the part numbers on khartunerz website. I understand that they took the time and effort to measure and cross reference the pads to another vehicle that uses the same caliper as the stinger....hence they are the only folks that have pads available for sale for the stinger. I'm not going to ask them what is the other vehicle, since I understand they are running a business... but I feel as a community we can figure this out also and then be able to buy pads for a fraction of the price from any brand we choose. So....who has a digital caliper and is willing to take measurements of their brake pads? Because I guarantee you that the brembo caliper on our stinger is not unique, another vehicle has been using it....for years...

 

[POS VETT]

Ever heard about FMSI number for disc brake pads? It usually starts with a D (for disc) followed by either 3- or 4-digit numbers.

Find these two numbers to make your search or cross-referencing a lot easier.

 

[Sanjay R]

Well, I've looked on Kia's parts website and found nothing remotely close to it.

 

[POS VETT]

Well, I've looked on Kia's parts website and found nothing remotely close to it.

No, KIA parts catalog will not show such a number. This is going to need a slightly "off the beaten path" type of research. I usually found such information at an aftermarket manufacturer website. Be aware that the 2.0l version uses sliding brake calipers which use different pads, thus different set of FMSI numbers.

What's the purpose of searching for a different set of pads?

 

[Sanjay R]

I'm searching for my GT brembo calipers, the usdm stingers got shitty pads that leave deposits when driven hard and cause vibration.

European stingers got a better more agressive compound. I can usually fix the issue by re-bedding the pads...but I'm tired of doing that.
No one sells aftermarket pads for our cars yet...not officially at least. Khar tunerz physically measured the pads and cross referenced them with the closest matching pads from stoptech, girodisc etc for another vehicle and sells it as stinger pads..hence only they have for sale.

And I want to know what the other vehicle is that uses this same pad.

 

[Angus Law]

Our Brembo brake same as EVO6/7/8/9/10
I am using this brake and run perfectly for a while.
Raybestos ST43 Front Brake Pads for EVO 6/7/8/9/10
This pads are ideal for track and fast road use

 

[Ty Davis]

Our Brembo brake same as EVO6/7/8/9/10
I am using this brake and run perfectly for a while.
Raybestos ST43 Front Brake Pads for EVO 6/7/8/9/10
This pads are ideal for track and fast road use

Great info Bro! What about the rear pads? Do you know of a vehicle that we could use for that too?

 

[itguy61]

I have a set of Gyridisc pads I bought from KHartunerz, also bought a new pair of factory rotors. Have not installed yet due to weather and the dealer turning the factory rotors and getting the vibration out for now. I have to decide weather to wait until the vibration starts again or do it again.

My main concern now after looking under the car is how to jack the car up with an hydraulic floor jack and then put in jack stand. Can't figure out where to locate each of these under the car with damage, not enough room at the jack points to get both jacks under the car.

 

[Angus Law]

Great info Bro! What about the rear pads? Do you know of a vehicle that we could use for that too?

Don’t worry about the rear
The stock rear pad good enough for light track and fast road use

 

[Ty Davis]

Don’t worry about the rear
The stock rear pad good enough for light track and fast road use

I’ll need to find a solution for the rear pads too. I am very particular about brake bias. On most cars, I like to maintain stock brake bias. On others, I’d like to shift it to the rear, ever so slightly. Upgrading the front pads only and leaving the rear stock will result in the Front brakes doing more work than the already underutilized rears. The effect is that would cause the front wheels to get into ABS earlier and also more understeer while braking and turning hard. The Stinger has a brake bias that is very traditional... Most all road cars are front biased, but the Stinger runs it a little closer to the front still. This is evidenced by panic stops always trying to lock up the front wheels first. Since around the early year 2000’s automakers have been slowly but steadily adding in more rear brake bias. More rear Bias is possible with ABS, EBD, and other safety systems. The benefit is reduced nose dive (as more rear bias helps pull the rear suspension downward/resists it’s movement upward in a stop). This makes stops more level and also decreases stopping distances.
BMW, Nissan, Toyota, Mercedes, Honda all do a great job of adding bias to the rear. It leads to a very nice braking feel. A quick Google search can detail all of the benefits of running as much rear bias as possible (without inducing instability), if you want to know more...

My goal is to get rid of the factory Ceramic pads and Change them to another type, as I don’t like the bite characteristics of a ceramic pad. So they’ll definitely need to be replaced both front and rear. I’ll do a little research and try and find a matching rear pad upgrade for the Stinger too.

 

[oddball]

My main concern now after looking under the car is how to jack the car up with an hydraulic floor jack and then put in jack stand. Can't figure out where to locate each of these under the car with damage, not enough room at the jack points to get both jacks under the car.

Use a pinch weld adapter on your jack and lift a few inches away from the "jack" location, then set the car down on the jack stand in the "jack" location between the notches.
The entire pinch weld is strong enough. The so-called jack locations are really there for roadside tire changes so folks put the jack in the right place to get the wheel off the ground.
I haven't found a center lift point I like in the front. You can use the diff in the rear, but the manufacturers always discourage that. I guess it's possible the diff housing could crack?

 

[oddball]

My goal is to get rid of the factory Ceramic pads and Change them to another type, as I don’t like the bite characteristics of a ceramic pad. So they’ll definitely need to be replaced both front and rear. I’ll do a little research and try and find a matching rear pad upgrade for the Stinger too.

Power Stop advertises rear pads. They're all ceramic, but you can start from there to find the pattern. Actually, that may be a dead end. They cross reference to a whole bunch of Kia stuff, so that may be the non-brembo brake. Hard to tell.
Throw down $20 and some time and find out!

 

[itguy61]

Use a pinch weld adapter on your jack and lift a few inches away from the "jack" location, then set the car down on the jack stand in the "jack" location between the notches.
The entire pinch weld is strong enough. The so-called jack locations are really there for roadside tire changes so folks put the jack in the right place to get the wheel off the ground.
I haven't found a center lift point I like in the front. You can use the diff in the rear, but the manufacturers always discourage that. I guess it's possible the diff housing could crack?

Thanks so much for the info! I will order one of the rubber adapters for my hydraulic jack and use those and lift a few inches behind the jack point .

Thanks,
Tim

 

[eflyguy]

They also make pinch weld adapters for jack stands to "soften" the contact area there.

I've had no reason to get underneath to-date, but will soon and will take a close look at it.

 

[itguy61]

They also make pinch weld adapters for jack stands to "soften" the contact area there.

I've had no reason to get underneath to-date, but will soon and will take a close look at it.

I have those already, want to get them for the hydraulic jack as well.

 

[Ty Davis]

Power Stop advertises rear pads. They're all ceramic, but you can start from there to find the pattern. Actually, that may be a dead end. They cross reference to a whole bunch of Kia stuff, so that may be the non-brembo brake. Hard to tell.
Throw down $20 and some time and find out!

I’ve already been doing some looking and have found several pads that I need to get measurements from.
I have run into a possible problem though. The rear Stinger pads have these two silver tabs on them.
They are visible, even with the wheels on. What purpose do those tabs serve? No other pads I’ve seen have these tabs on them, and if the tabs are mandatory for proper operation, it’s gonna be hard to find an alternative that wasn’t specifically made for the Stinger.

I haven’t taken apart the rear brakes yet, but I suspect those tabs are only there to aid in the insertion and removal of the pads into/from the caliper. Anyone know for sure?

The Genesis Coupe uses 13.4 inch Brembo Rotor pads on the front. That is the size we use at the rear. But again, the Coupe doesn’t have those tabs...

 

[nhcowboy28]

I’ve already been doing some looking and have found several pads that I need to get measurements from.
I have run into a possible problem though. The rear Stinger pads have these two silver tabs on them.
They are visible, even with the wheels on. What purpose do those tabs serve? No other pads I’ve seen have these tabs on them, and if the tabs are mandatory for proper operation, it’s gonna be hard to find an alternative that wasn’t specifically made for the Stinger.

I haven’t taken apart the rear brakes yet, but I suspect those tabs are only there to aid in the insertion and removal of the pads into/from the caliper. Anyone know for sure?

The Genesis Coupe uses 13.4 inch Brembo Rotor pads on the front. That is the size we use at the rear. But again, the Coupe doesn’t have those tabs...

Pic? You sure they aren’t the low pad sensors (screechers)?

 

[Angus Law]

I’ll need to find a solution for the rear pads too. I am very particular about brake bias. On most cars, I like to maintain stock brake bias. On others, I’d like to shift it to the rear, ever so slightly. Upgrading the front pads only and leaving the rear stock will result in the Front brakes doing more work than the already underutilized rears. The effect is that would cause the front wheels to get into ABS earlier and also more understeer while braking and turning hard. The Stinger has a brake bias that is very traditional... Most all road cars are front biased, but the Stinger runs it a little closer to the front still. This is evidenced by panic stops always trying to lock up the front wheels first. Since around the early year 2000’s automakers have been slowly but steadily adding in more rear brake bias. More rear Bias is possible with ABS, EBD, and other safety systems. The benefit is reduced nose dive (as more rear bias helps pull the rear suspension downward/resists it’s movement upward in a stop). This makes stops more level and also decreases stopping distances.
BMW, Nissan, Toyota, Mercedes, Honda all do a great job of adding bias to the rear. It leads to a very nice braking feel. A quick Google search can detail all of the benefits of running as much rear bias as possible (without inducing instability), if you want to know more...

My goal is to get rid of the factory Ceramic pads and Change them to another type, as I don’t like the bite characteristics of a ceramic pad. So they’ll definitely need to be replaced both front and rear. I’ll do a little research and try and find a matching rear pad upgrade for the Stinger too.

Please let us know the rear pad model if you found it
Thanks bro

 

[Ty Davis]

Pic? You sure they aren’t the low pad sensors (screechers)?

I don’t think so. Here’s a picture...

 

[Ty Davis]

Please let us know the rear pad model if you found it
Thanks bro

I definitely will.