Anyone hardwire a radar detector yet?

This is the 6 wire diagram, which I assume is for non rain sensing and whatever else it is missing. My harness has 8 wires, and the colors are different
Something like this? IMG_20200505_130100.webp
 
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Looking at it, I would say it's still 6 and 8, or possibly 8 and 10
 
Looking at it, I would say it's still 6 and 8, or possibly 8 and 10


6 and 8 work but RD does not cut off when tapped into 6...and I CANNOT get the nano tap into 10 to save my life. Bout destroyed the tap and my finger after continuous attempts
 
I thought I'd chime in here with a success using a Blendmount and their mirror tap, given how many above had issues.

I have a 2018 GT2 AWD, and in my case as for many above it was wires 6 (for the positive wire) and 8 (for ground) that allow it to power on and off with the ignition.

The install of the mirror tap was somewhat challenging - it didn't just slide into place on the first attempt, but after several tries at various angles and sides of the wire, I was able to get the smallest of the mirrortap's little prongs to slide firmly into place.

I do have a moderate amount of experience working with fairly fragile, small things (I have a small business building custom bicycle wheels, and another hobby is watch modification - both of which can involve some comically tiny, very fragile bits) - but almost zero experience doing ANYTHING with wires - I recently installed a nest thermostat in our new house, and ran some speaker wire.

This was absolutely not a force thing - pushing too hard on the tap would absolutely bend or break it. Probing with the tap to try and find a spot on the plug where it would slide into place was the key. Trying all sides of the wire was really the trick.


My guess is that if you were still struggling here even after trying multiple you could file the prong on the tap into a thinner point and have success that way.
 

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@MaraudingWalrus where did you get the UCF logoed EPass? Haven't seen those before.
 
I ended up making my own mount (3d printer) for both my R3 detector and cam. I had to use a 5V regulator for the camera and of course the R3 uses 12V. The regulator fits in a slot in the 3d printed bracket. The wires run through the bracket also to keep it tidy.

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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
@MaraudingWalrus where did you get the UCF logoed EPass? Haven't seen those before.
I think I picked mine up at the campus book store a few years ago, but they're definitely also available on the CF expressway website, but I think it's only the three state schools available.
 
Nice set-up. How is it holding up?
It has been in the car for about 3 months. That includes 2 trips to Florida and a trip to NE (from Missouri). So, far it has been great. I used ASA filament. The part that clamps around the mirror is from another kit that I purchased (before the camera) when I got the R3 detector. It is a metal clamp.
 
Thanks everyone for posting your experiences in wiring and mounting to your mirror. I ordered the wire taps and the mirror tap a day or two ago, and installed it in just under an hour. Using the 6 & 8 wires (brown and black). The only thing I noticed was that when the engine shut off at the light (somethng I try to always turn off) it shut off the radar detector. I re-used the blendmount from my SHO.
 
I just never paid any attention. I'm okay when the ISG works, and don't care when it doesn't. I did notice when it stops the car the A/C doesn't entirely stop, but it backs down to a murmur, so mine likely shuts down also, because I used the same +/- 12v wires. Both my cam and radar are okay with that.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I just tried to tap the #6 (power 12v) and #8 (ground) pins on a non-homelink mirror and the power is switched with the ignition BUT it loses power when the headlights are off??? If my headlights are in auto mode the unit works in the garage (dark) but as soon as I hit the daylight no power. Anybody have a schematic for a non-homelink mirror?

Edit: I moved it to the #10 pin and all works as it should
I also have non homelink version. If you tap in to 10 does the radar stay on even if you shut off the car?
 
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41 dollars on Amazon, came with power supply cable. Bought the quick taps, installed in 10 minutes. Brown and black wires.
 

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