Anyone hardwire a radar detector yet?

I can confirm that it is indeed red wire to Ignition (Pin 6) and black wire to Ground (Pin 10), now I just need to affix the wiring somehow... I may end up just taking it in somewhere to have it done well after all.

That’s a double positive. Nothing positive is going to happen then.
Use one positive and one ground.
Battery + is continuous on
Ignition is + only on when ignition is on.

So it is black on 8
Red on 10 ( might drain your battery if detector stays on )
Or
Red on 6

Or

Ask someone to help who knows what he is doing.....
 
I hope this helps...

My connector is different from the ones shown here. Here is the connector from my 2018 Stinger GT2. I used a mirror mount for my Uniden R3 radar detector. I placed the wiretap about an inch back from the connector. There is plenty of room under the little cover for them. The wire simply runs out the bottom to the detector. The cover over the connector pops off easily with a credit card.
 

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I just tried to tap the #6 (power 12v) and #8 (ground) pins on a non-homelink mirror and the power is switched with the ignition BUT it loses power when the headlights are off??? If my headlights are in auto mode the unit works in the garage (dark) but as soon as I hit the daylight no power. Anybody have a schematic for a non-homelink mirror?

Edit: I moved it to the #10 pin and all works as it should
 
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I just finally got around to mounting my V1. I had the middle size MirrorTap kit, but I'd recommend the smaller one. It was a tight fit. I can also confirm you want 6 and 8.

[Pic]

-Matt
 
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So what's the verdict on this? Wires 6 and 8? 6 being positive, ignition controlled and 8 being ground?
 
x2 on the waze app...leo's use laser here...we're screwed soon as the engine is turned on.......
 
I hope this helps...

My connector is different from the ones shown here. Here is the connector from my 2018 Stinger GT2. I used a mirror mount for my Uniden R3 radar detector. I placed the wiretap about an inch back from the connector. There is plenty of room under the little cover for them. The wire simply runs out the bottom to the detector. The cover over the connector pops off easily with a credit card.

I want to do the same thing with my setup. Glad to see it works. How did you connect the wire taps to the power cord for R3?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
AddACircuit.webp

For those wanting to tap into the fuse box, use an Add-a-Circuit. It plugs into the fuse block in place of an existing fuse (which you then add to the open position on the Add-a-Circuit). It just splits the existing circuit into two separate ones.

I used the 10amp Charger fuse to tap for my detector. Available at any auto parts store, and requires no modifications. Just be sure to get the right size.
 
I just got around to hard wiring mine yesterday. Here's a video I made, maybe it'll help someone.


Thanks so much for the video! Super clear instructions, and those wire taps make it incredibly easy...
 
So I have an Escort MAX 360c and got the BlendMount and BlendMount Mirror Tap. The wires they give you are supposed to slide into the back of the molex with the wire, they don't even the smallest one which snapped the end off trying to shove it in. Way to tight so I don't recommend their wire kit but I liked it because of no piercing of the wire. Now to find a better wire kit.
 
So I hardwired my Escort iX. It is wires 6 and 8 that let the detector be controlled by the ignition.

I used this hardwire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078956R2S
And I used this wire connector and it fit perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075L586QP

Connector pic 1:
View attachment 13203

Connector pic 2:
View attachment 13204

Connector seated:
View attachment 13205

Radar detector plugged in:
View attachment 13206

Looks like you removed the "Inline micro-fuse protects your device." from the direct wire you bought, are you not concerned?
 
So I have an Escort MAX 360c and got the BlendMount and BlendMount Mirror Tap. The wires they give you are supposed to slide into the back of the molex with the wire, they don't even the smallest one which snapped the end off trying to shove it in. Way to tight so I don't recommend their wire kit but I liked it because of no piercing of the wire. Now to find a better wire kit.

I ran into the same problem with the BlendMount Mirror Tap for my R3. Tried every angle and no way that was going to work. So I ended up using 22 AWG quick splice wire taps and inserting the mirror tap into one end.

310eMgJWpbL._SX425_.webp IMG_8468.webp

It works well, a little bulky, but there's plenty of space to tuck everything back in behind the mirror access panel without issue.

IMG_8470.webp IMG_8486.webp IMG_8489.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I just got around to hard wiring mine yesterday. Here's a video I made, maybe it'll help someone.
Very good video, lots of help making the job super easy.

Got the Posi Taps just to make it quick and easy.
Checked my copy of the service manual schematic to make sure it matched the video - it does.
One minor problem - the first step of popping off the cover on the pod glued to the windshield with the cable, connectors, etc., in it. THE COVER IS MISSING! I'll have to talk to my dealer and see if he can get me one. It is so hidden behind the mirror, I never noticed it was missing.

Connector was easy to get to and unplug. Attached the Posi Taps to wire #6 (brown) +12v and #8 (black) ground. Wrapped the hot from my dash cam and radar detector together and attached them. Wrapped the ground from each together and attached them. Checked everything visually, plugged the connector in. Checked that both dash cam and radar detector work correctly and shut off when the car does. Total time maybe 10 minutes. Took about 2 hours on my Ranger pickup.
 
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Did mine yesterday morning, sorry I was in to much of a hurry to take lots of pictures but here is the links to the products I used and how I did it with final pictures.

Parts List:
1. Radar Mount RJ11 Mirror Wire Radar Detector Hardwire Power Cord for Escort IX EX Max 360C (3005201IX) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078956R2S/

2. Wire Connectors - Pack of 10 low voltage wire T tap connectors T type 2 Pin solderless with no wire-stripping required for Mid-span Branching in Wires Connection 20/22 AWG Cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075L586QP

3. ESCORT MAX 360C ESCORT MAX 360C

4. BlendMount Aluminum Radar Detector Mount, Escort Max 360c, RedLine EX, iX/iXc, Standard Series BlendMount Aluminum Radar Detector Mount, Escort Max 360c, RedLine EX, iX/iXc, Standard Series

Additionally, I used some solder, shrink tube and some 22 AWG wire I already had.

First, my goal was to tap once using the given connections provided by Blenmount's wire kit, they wouldn't slide into the mirror connector to tight, I returned it since it was pricy and got the amazon one and tried it as well and the same issue.

I then cut the ends off and I soldered on some additional wire and shrink tubed it. The purpose of this was to tap one time into the car's wires using the above wiretap which works great and leave myself 2 connections 1 for the radar detector and one for a dash cam once I decide which one I want so now I have an extra set of wires ready to go when I decide on it to connect to.

As said in previous posts on the 2019 GT2 the wires are brown for ignition and black for ground. Pretty quick and easy and plenty of room to put your tap and wire there.

With my big hands getting the BlendMount mirror bracket on was a little challenging but with some patience, I was able to get it done.

20190413_101201.webp 20190413_101154.webp 20190413_093506.webp
 
View attachment 18866

For those wanting to tap into the fuse box, use an Add-a-Circuit. It plugs into the fuse block in place of an existing fuse (which you then add to the open position on the Add-a-Circuit). It just splits the existing circuit into two separate ones.

I used the 10amp Charger fuse to tap for my detector. Available at any auto parts store, and requires no modifications. Just be sure to get the right size.

This is the easiest and least intrusive way to go. No splicing or tapping wires. It's also easy to conceal the wires without removing any trim pieces by just tucking in at the edge of the headliner and going down the door trim straight into the fuse panel.
 
On my GT, the rear view mirror only has auto dimming, no homelink or compass. Since it is powered, I’m assuming tapping into the rear view mirror would still work for radar detector power?
 
This is the easiest and least intrusive way to go. No splicing or tapping wires. It's also easy to conceal the wires without removing any trim pieces by just tucking in at the edge of the headliner and going down the door trim straight into the fuse panel.
I plugged into the open "spare" socket but it provides continuous power. What socket will provide power only with the stinger ignition on?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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