3.3T Turbo Oil Feed Line Recall 2024

Anyone in the Edmonton, Alberta area that did the recall, and what dealer they would recommend. Thanks.
I did mine at Go Kia South. They forgot to reconnect the windshield washer hose and left the car dirtier than I dropped it off….other than that OK….not sure if any other place is better…they are kinda all a go g show.
 
I did mine at Go Kia South. They forgot to reconnect the windshield washer hose and left the car dirtier than I dropped it off….other than that OK….not sure if any other place is better…they are kinda all a go g show.

i bought my car there, but would prob never go back there. Was thinking Sherwood Park or North Kia. Honestly, dont drive much and prob just defer this if possible.
 
i bought my car there, but would prob never go back there. Was thinking Sherwood Park or North Kia. Honestly, dont drive much and prob just defer this if possible.
My solution…
 

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Ditto. I also get an endoscope up there every oil change. So far it looks good.
After 45 it’s a good idea. Colon cancer is no joke.

What? That’s not what you meant? Oh, sorry. Still, it’s wise.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
After 45 it’s a good idea. Colon cancer is no joke.

What? That’s not what you meant? Oh, sorry. Still, it’s wise.
Can't argue with that...
 
Anyone in the Edmonton, Alberta area that did the recall, and what dealer they would recommend. Thanks.
Sherwood Park Kia did a fantastic job on my recall. No issues then or since and it was done in one day last year.

I would avoid GoKia South. They have made basic errors when I have taken my car there for oil changes, registered my car under someone elses name during one of my oil change appointments (so theoretically they would have handed my keys off to this other person if they showed up to pick the car up), and it took 5 visits for them to simply recognize and realize that I needed new spark plugs due to premature failure at 20,000km while my stock car was under warranty and throwing codes with loss of engine power. I would not trust them at all and would never go back there.
 
I had the recall done on mine 3 weeks ago. I chose not to do the post service survey because let's be honest, I need to maintain what little service I may possibly need in the future and don't want to burn that bridge.

Anyway, I had issues with the following that I resolved on my own:
  • Washer fluid hose not hooked back up at cowl.
  • Coolant system not burped correctly (water sloshing sound in dash).
  • Odd shaped trim piece on the lower corner, passenger side of the windshield where the cowl and gloss black windshield trim meet wasn't reinstalled correctly.
  • On the driver side of the motor there is a small wire harness with a clip that runs near the airbox hose; the clip wasn't snapped back into the holder (step 14 in the recall calls for the wire harness to be removed from the clip strap and the clip left in its holder, but the tech undid the clip from its holder so it was still attached to the harness).
I now have an occasional rattle, a lot like what an exhaust heat shield sounds like (pingy, thin metallic noise). Happens sporadically on cold starts and when applying throttle. I've reviewed the recall steps and I can't figure out what would cause this noise but who knows what the tech may have messed with. I've poked around, there are heat shields accessible from above on both sides of the motor but they both are attached with the same tightness. So, I will continue to poke around until I isolate it.
 
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What did you do to resolve this?

TL;DR: Kept topping off the rad and overflow until it purged whatever little air was in there. Took probably a week and a half or more of driving cycles and topping off to clear it up. Previously, a little cold start rev and you could hear the air in the lines behind the dash but now I can do that and don't hear anything. It's quiet as can be, no sloshing noises now.


Before I picked the car up the app was sending me warnings about it idling for XX amount of time so I knew they were going through the bleed process. When I got the car it was still warm and wasn't making any sloshing sounds in the dash. The overflow jug was between the 2 lines. The next day after the car cooled overnight, I started the car and when I gave it throttle I could hear the sloshing in the dash. Hindsight 20/20, I should have checked the rad and overflow after it cooled all night and prior to starting. When I popped the hood the overflow was about empty and the rad was below the neck but I could see fluid. So, filled both up and brought the car to temp with the cap off the rad. Let it idle for 20 minutes or so while continuously topping the rad off. Over the next week and a half+ whenever the car would sit long enough to go cold, I would top off the rad and overflow.
 
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Had mine done 2 weeks ago at Bergeys Kia in Colmar PA. Everything went well. They were knowledgeable of the process and had done a bunch of cars before mine. Coolant system was bled properly. I did a visual inspection while doing an oil change last weekend, everything buttoned up well from top to bottom. Perhaps the most surprisingly part to me was my service manager Mike was very responsive. I got multiple texts throughout the day as well as a phone call when it was done.
 
What did you do to resolve this?
Same here, had to top off twice after (2) 800 mile trips, luckily no overheating issues during those road trips. Been at the full mark for 10k miles now.
 
Sherwood Park Kia did a fantastic job on my recall. No issues then or since and it was done in one day last year.

I would avoid GoKia South. They have made basic errors when I have taken my car there for oil changes, registered my car under someone elses name during one of my oil change appointments (so theoretically they would have handed my keys off to this other person if they showed up to pick the car up), and it took 5 visits for them to simply recognize and realize that I needed new spark plugs due to premature failure at 20,000km while my stock car was under warranty and throwing codes with loss of engine power. I would not trust them at all and would never go back there.
I also agree with stinger 123 , had my recall done at Sherwood Park Kia and no issues. Avoid North and South Kia dealerships in Edmonton I have not had good experiences at either location. North forgot to bolt up my skid plate after an oil change and resulted in it being damaged which they replaced . I bought the car from south and so many bad interactions that led to my extended warranty being refunded.
 
I now have an occasional rattle, a lot like what an exhaust heat shield sounds like (pingy, thin metallic noise). Happens sporadically on cold starts and when applying throttle. I've reviewed the recall steps and I can't figure out what would cause this noise but who knows what the tech may have messed with. I've poked around, there are heat shields accessible from above on both sides of the motor but they both are attached with the same tightness. So, I will continue to poke around until I isolate it.

I finally got annoyed enough to look and found that step 23 wasn't done correctly. The bolt used to attach the brake vacuum pipe to the bracket on the water pipe was never reinstalled. :rolleyes: As a result, that brake vacuum pipe has a tonnn of play and I'm hoping once that's addressed my rattle goes away. I went to the same dealer, different advisor yesterday looking for just the bolt to handle this on my own. The tech that did my recall no longer works there. :thumbup: I wonder why.

The service advisor went and grabbed a tech that came out and visually confirmed my issue, wanted to make it right and said he would fix it and go over everything if I would let him. So, I scheduled another appointment for July 1. Obviously, there's apprehension on my part to follow through with this, but, with a total of (7) things not done right (that I know of) on my recall job who knows if the replacement pipe was even installed right. I feel somewhat optimistic a different tech wants the job and stated he will do it correctly to fix my issue and go through the prior tech's repair.1.webp
 
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I finally got annoyed enough to look and found that step 23 wasn't done correctly. The bolt used to attach the brake vacuum pipe to the bracket on the water pipe was never reinstalled. :rolleyes: As a result, that brake vacuum pipe has a tonnn of play and I'm hoping once that's addressed my rattle goes away. I went to the same dealer, different advisor yesterday looking for just the bolt to handle this on my own. The tech that did my recall no longer works there. :thumbup: I wonder why.

The service advisor went and grabbed a tech that came out and visually confirmed my issue, wanted to make it right and said he would fix it and go over everything if I would let him. So, I scheduled another appointment for July 1. Obviously, there's apprehension on my part to follow through with this, but, with a total of (7) things not done right (that I know of) on my recall job who knows if the replacement pipe was even installed right. I feel somewhat optimistic a different tech wants the job and stated he will do it correctly to fix my issue and go through the prior tech's repair.View attachment 90982
mine bungled that up too, or did so when they replaced that vacuum line instead of replacing the booster like they were supposed to. I just grabbed a bolt and did it myself. had to take off that insulation piece to get to it, but not a big deal at all.
 
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Curious if anyone knows whether during the recall process they could possibly cause a leak in the AC (I mean I guess anything is possible, but how likely)? Last Thurs was a pretty hot day here and I noticed the air coming out of the vents didn't seem very cold. Got home and checked with the IR gun and the passenger side vent was blowing cold, but the middle and driver side were warm. No idea how long it may have been like this.

Online research suggested either a blend door actuator or low refrigerant. Took it to a shop today and was indeed low refrigerant. They charged it and said to bring it back when it started blowing warm again so they could find the leak (guess they put dye in it). Been a year since I had the recall done, so not looking to go back to them with this. But just wondering if this could be something to add to the "watch out for this afterwards" list.
 
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Curious if anyone knows whether during the recall process they could possibly cause a leak in the AC (I mean I guess anything is possible, but how likely)? Last Thurs was a pretty hot day here and I noticed the air coming out of the vents didn't seem very cold. Got home and checked with the IR gun and the passenger side vent was blowing cold, but the middle and driver side were warm. No idea how long it may have been like this.

Online research suggested either a blend door actuator or low refrigerant. Took it to a shop today and was indeed low refrigerant. They charged it and said to bring it back when it started blowing warm again so they could find the leak (guess they put dye in it). Been a year since I had the recall done, so not looking to go back to them with this. But just wondering if this could be something to add to the "watch out for this afterwards" list.
If it’s been a year since they did the recall, they didn’t mess it up when they did the recall. A refrigerant leak will show itself in a matter of 2-3 days.
 
If it’s been a year since they did the recall, they didn’t mess it up when they did the recall. A refrigerant leak will show itself in a matter of 2-3 days.
The car sees mostly short local driving, so it's possible it's been like this for a while and I just didn't notice. The shop charged it and said it seemed to be holding pressure, and said it could take months to get to the point of blowing warm again.

Crazy, but over 30+ years, this is only the 2nd time I've ever had to get the AC serviced in a modern car...the other being a 96 Chevy Lumina company car that had an issue right off the bat.
 
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