Coasting mode

[5tinger]

Could anyone post a photo of the coasting icon on the instrument cluster?

 

[Rejay14]

Much appreciated! I’ll try that. I have the Noco Genius 10, which is super easy to use and tops the battery off very gently.

Wow. 20km/12 miles of errands in town today. The charger shows a state of discharge. . No AC, no heat, no headlights

 

[Thomby]

Wow. 20km/12 miles of errands in town today. The charger shows a state of discharge. . No AC, no heat, no headlights View attachment 86122View attachment 86123

Mine wasn't quite that low, but I tested it somewhere in the 12.2-12.4 range, after normal drives around town (say 10 miles). Given how new my car/battery were, and that I never had a slow or weak start, I figured this must be part of the "smart" charging logic.

But see how it behaves after a full top up.

 

[D.J.]

Wow. 20km/12 miles of errands in town today. The charger shows a state of discharge. . No AC, no heat, no headlights View attachment 86122View attachment 86123

540CCA STD? what battery is that?

 

[Rejay14]

I Googled the standard OEM battery of the 2022 Stinger. If that was an erroneous input on my behalf, I will accept corrections to my input. Any help is welcome. I will amend as required.

Thank you for your attention to my possible error!

 

[D.J.]

I Googled the standard OEM battery of the 2022 Stinger. If that was an erroneous input on my behalf, I will accept corrections to my input. Any help is welcome. I will amend as required.

Thank you for your attention to my possible error!

My OEM Kia stinger battery is AGM90L-DIN (850CCA)
That might give you different readings on that battery analyzer.

Yours is likely the same

 

[Rejay14]

My OEM Kia stinger battery is AGN90L-DIN (850CCA)
That might give you different readings on that battery analyzer.

Yours is likely the same

I appreciate your reply with relevant information. Thank you. I will test again tomorrow.

 

[Rejay14]

I appreciate your reply with relevant information. Thank you. I will test again tomorrow.

Trips to the dealership resulted in them telling me that the battery was seriously discharged, but they wouldn’t replace it under warranty because their testing equipment said to recharge, not to replace the battery.

During a trip a few weeks ago, the coasting and auto start-stop took 400km to activate. Then they both worked on short trips the rest of the week. Then they didn’t. I usually only drive it once or twice a week, so I can see that the battery is not getting topped-off regularly, but with the large alternator in this car, it should take less than 4 hours to bring it back up to full charge. I understand that there is probably a good amount of discharge while at rest, something has got to be on standby in order for the cell modem to engage to the app when requested. Seems like it has a mind of its own.

 

[Thomby]

I understand that there is probably a good amount of discharge while at rest, something has got to be on standby in order for the cell modem to engage to the app when requested. Seems like it has a mind of its own.

Do you leave the car unlocked at home? I don't have the spec in front of me, but I believe the discharge current is notably higher while the car is "awake", dropping off a short while after you lock it and it goes to sleep.

I was leaving the car unlocked in my garage when I noticed the lack of Coasting and measured the lower voltages. You could also grab a multimeter with induction loop and see what the car is pulling from the battery while off.

You'll need to put the multimeter where you can see it in the hatch, close and lock everything, and give it a minute or so to settle.

 

[D.J.]

Do you leave the car unlocked at home? I don't have the spec in front of me, but I believe the discharge current is notably higher while the car is "awake", dropping off a short while after you lock it and it goes to sleep.

I was leaving the car unlocked in my garage when I noticed the lack of Coasting and measured the lower voltages. You could also grab a multimeter with induction loop and see what the car is pulling from the battery while off.

You'll need to put the multimeter where you can see it in the hatch, close and lock everything, and give it a minute or so to settle.

I recently purchased a BM6 Bluetooth battery monitor that "CLAIMS" to draw less than 1.5mA (which is insanely low)

Before installing it, I felt compelled to test it and sure enough:

• Actively connected to Bluetooth = <2mA
• Disconnected but searching for Bluetooth = <1mA

I was pleasantly surprised at such a low current draw.

It logs a data point every ~2mins, and stores 35 days of data. (Nifty)
Can even export the data to excel to satisfy your inner geek!

My resting voltage over 5 days (4 days rest) was 12.46.


Temperature at the battery (car outside, on my driveway)


Even automatically tracks minimum voltage during starts, with a graph.

 

[JSolo]

Does the app for above require internet connectivity? Does it report anything back to the mothership?

Years ago, I installed something called a Fuel Cut Eliminator to the bike in my avatar ('09 FZ1). The purpose of this dongle is to prevent complete injector closure when coasting in gear with throttle closed.

Ivan’s Performance Products Fuel-Cut Eliminator - Motorcycle & Powersports News

Ivan's Fuel-Cut Eliminator: Smooth throttle response and enhanced midrange power for Yamaha FZ-1s. Upgrade your ride today!

www.motorcyclepowersportsnews.com

This all worked for a period of time (less than a year). However upon leaving for a ride one day the bike wouldn't run right, barely idled, back fired, etc. Initially thought bad gas but it ran just fine the day before. I vaguely recalled reports of failure of this part causing such issues. I promptly removed this pos form the bike. Bike ran just fine after. I dread to think what a hassle this would be to do on the side of the road - required lifting the gas tank as it installed near the throttle bodies.

Upon receiving the exchanged unit, I put it up for sale immediately. No way was it going back into the bike.

My point, never know what can happen with some of these after market parts. Coming from ALI, there's no UL testing. I just see a fcc certification because it uses BT.



They couldn't even align the pot to the circuit board. Given this device installs across the battery, I hope it doesn't catch fire one day .



Where's the fuse?!@#

 

[D.J.]

Does the app for above require internet connectivity? Does it report anything back to the mothership?

Does not require internet access.
It asks for GPS, but does not require, you can say no

It only requires Bluetooth access. Can't even open the app if Bluetooth is off

Where's the fuse?!@#

Maybe you are expected to add your own??
I live dangerously and I went raw dawg!

I can totally appreciate the Ivan's fuel cut story though, no certs, no testing! There is potential for these electronics to fail miserably/dangerously.

Pic from the internet of the BM6

 

[JSolo]

Final design does look better. My pic was from the fcc page.

Almost had a car fire with my first car because of improperly routed wires. The fuse of course was on the far side, AFTER the hood latch. One day im driving and there's smoke from the hood, but it's not burned oil or coolant smell. Had diagonal cutters in the trunk and snipped the wire at the battery before things got hairy. Since then am very alert to such things.

If you plan on leaving it in there long term, I'd definitely splice in a fuse, what ever the smallest you can find from a reputable (not amazon!) source; 1A, 2A would be more than enough.

 

[Thomby]

I recently purchased a BM6 Bluetooth battery monitor that "CLAIMS" to draw less than 1.5mA (which is insanely low)

I guess it would need to be inline with the car's cabling (or use an induction loop) to measure current draw, unless it can back into it from the rate of voltage drop.

Have you been able to observe a different rate of drawdown with the car unlocked/awake vs locked/asleep? I would've assumed that even unlocked the car would eventually go to sleep, but maybe not given my voltage dips overnight.

 

[D.J.]

I guess it would need to be inline with the car's cabling (or use an induction loop) to measure current draw, unless it can back into it from the rate of voltage drop.

Have you been able to observe a different rate of drawdown with the car unlocked/awake vs locked/asleep? I would've assumed that even unlocked the car would eventually go to sleep, but maybe not given my voltage dips overnight.

I always lock my car nearly immediately after parking, so I can't really speak to the parasitic draw when left unlocked, or how long it takes to go to sleep. But I am sure it does go to sleep sometime between 30 and 120 minutes after parking, if left unlocked. Much quicker when locked.