Do It Yourself Kia Stinger Oil Change

Thank you for the info on the extractor! I tried out the 15L version and am very pleased with it. Pricey, but worth it in my book and a huge upgrade over my aging "Pela" type 6L one.

I ended up using the medium size hose extension and it appeared to have reached the bottom of the pan. One interesting thing I noticed: I extracted as much as a could before working on the filter. After removing the old filter and before installing the new one, I decided to try pumping a few more times to get some dregs, which I was able to do. The interesting part: after I did this and checked under the car again, a new steady stream of oil was trickling from the filter housing. It took over a minute to subside.

Anyhow, super happy with the product. Thanks again for the link.
Hey, glad to hear about the great results, and also the ancillary drip that happened! I had my oil pan under there and it almost assuredly did the same thing; I just wasn't under there to witness it. :p Real shame I did an oil change and I promptly let my baby go... Hope you enjoy yours for many miles!
 
Anyone do an oil change on the 2022 2.5 turbo's yet? Is the filter housing vertical (perpedicular to the ground) or horizontal? Any pics of the area?
 
For all of you who do your own oil changes, I'm going to let you in on a little tip that sounds simple but goes a long way to protecting your engine.
( I'm assuming this hasn't already been mentioned since I've not seen it anywhere so far )

When changing your oil filter, get a clean container and poor some of your oil into it and place your new filter in it and rotate it slowly so that the oil soaks into the filter media. Once all of the media is soaked, you can stand the filter on it's end to drain a little or simply install.

Yes, it's a little messy so why do it ? When you change your oil and filter, then start your engine for the first time, the oil is still quite thick and flows slower than at operating temperature. The oil has to be pumped from the sump and through the filter ( which would otherwise be dry ) and then off through the engine. Every second ( or part of a second ) counts when getting that oil to your bearings, rings, etc so pre-oiling your filter helps reduce that time.

For you 2L or 2.5L owners, the same applies but even more so with a spin-on filter. Fill it with oil ( in the middle ) and let it soak into the media, you can then drain some off or just install it full of oil.

Hope this helps.
 
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It's not like you can prefill a spinon in this car. I'm not sure I see the value in just getting the filter material wet. The oil pump still has to pressurize the whole oil pathways.

My oil changes involve getting the car up to operating temp (drive on the highway for 10-15 min), then doing the oil change. When I pour the new oil in, the engine is still relatively hot. The oil pressure light (in other cars) may stay on for a few seconds at most. I think there's sufficient residual oil still left to not cause issues. ymmv :)
 
You can pre-fill a spin on filter if it mounts vertically. Done it many times.

If your spin on filter is mounted horizontally, ( as I said ) you can fill it, let the oil soak into the media and drain the majority out. At least the media will already be full of oil.

All the race cars I've worked on have selectable ignition and when the engines are fired up for the first time, the engine is cranked over until oil pressure is seen. Then the ignition is selected and the engine is started.

What I have suggested is not as good, but every millisecond of engine running without oil pressure is doing damage so pre wetting the element or pre filling the filter bowl helps.

Anyway, it's just something I've learned in my time working on cars ( over 30 long, knuckle grazed, burned hands, dust in eyes years ). Take it or leave it :)
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Sooooo I was trying to do my own oil change yesterday... I got everything I need! sadly I'm having a real pain in the ass trying to remove the oil drain plug... looks a little stripped to me. whenever I use the closed end of my wrench it just peels itself off from the bolt. cany really get a socket on there also because of the tight working area. any recommendations on what to do? I would rather not take it to some oil-changing spot mainly because I highly doubt they even changed the oil filter the last time I did that. that was before I noticed that not a lot of shops or let's say auto zone have those types of oil filters just laying around.
 
Sooooo I was trying to do my own oil change yesterday... I got everything I need! sadly I'm having a real pain in the ass trying to remove the oil drain plug... looks a little stripped to me. whenever I use the closed end of my wrench it just peels itself off from the bolt. cany really get a socket on there also because of the tight working area. any recommendations on what to do? I would rather not take it to some oil-changing spot mainly because I highly doubt they even changed the oil filter the last time I did that. that was before I noticed that not a lot of shops or let's say auto zone have those types of oil filters just laying around

also! is it fine if I just use a Channellock to remove the cap for the oil filter? i heard it was plastic so I don't knoowwww.
 
Is this your first oil change? Great that you want to do your own maintenance, but if you're new to this, do it under the supervision of someone who know what they're doing. Oil changes are not complicated but can result in $$$$$ damages if not done correctly.

You should use a 6 point socket with a ratchet. I believe it was mentioned the drain plug is a 17mm. I don't recall what size the oil filter housing size is.

Use proper tools to prevent damage. And yes, the filter cap is plastic.

1628523985104.webp
1628524015116.webp
 
Is this your first oil change? Great that you want to do your own maintenance, but if you're new to this, do it under the supervision of someone who know what they're doing. Oil changes are not complicated but can result in $$$$$ damages if not done correctly.

You should use a 6 point socket with a ratchet. I believe it was mentioned the drain plug is a 17mm. I don't recall what size the oil filter housing size is.

Use proper tools to prevent damage. And yes, the filter cap is plastic.

View attachment 61723
View attachment 61724
Torque and size
26 ft lbs filter oil filter cap (27mm
32.5 ft lbs drain plug ( 17 m m)

I highly recommend the pump method.
 
^^Fair enough, but one still has to crawl undernear to change the filter. While down there grab a bright flashlight and examine engine/trans for any leaks.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Is this your first oil change? Great that you want to do your own maintenance, but if you're new to this, do it under the supervision of someone who know what they're doing. Oil changes are not complicated but can result in $$$$$ damages if not done correctly.

You should use a 6 point socket with a ratchet. I believe it was mentioned the drain plug is a 17mm. I don't recall what size the oil filter housing size is.

Use proper tools to prevent damage. And yes, the filter cap is plastic.

View attachment 61723
View attachment 61724

first time no. but definitely tricky for me mainly because of the crossbar that's two inches away. all my sockets fit on it but once I try to connect my wrench it doesn't fit. I was going to try adding a swivel and hopefully, that would fit but haven't tried it just yet. I tried using the closed end of my wrench because it fits but whenever I try to crack it lose my wrench pretty much just pulls itself off sadly. I was definitely using a 17mm but two or three corners are kinda stripped or bent inwards on itself so it feels slightly loose.

Torque and size
26 ft lbs filter oil filter cap (27mm
32.5 ft lbs drain plug ( 17 m m)

I highly recommend the pump method.
ermmm no idea what pump method is honestly but thank you for the torque specs! def needed that.



^^Fair enough, but one still has to crawl undernear to change the filter. While down there grab a bright flashlight and examine engine/trans for any leaks.
thankfully no leaks! I did see one spot that was dripping water. not constantly but I saw like 4 drips within an hour. didn't smell or have any color so I'm assuming it's condensation from the ac. closer near the passenger side near the oil plug
 
^^Does yours look like this? (from a youtube video
)

What engine do you have?

1628530051475.webp

He doesn't say what engine that is, but I think its the 3.3 based on the sound and the calipers. Unless the pic is deceiving, it look like there's plenty of room to fit a ratchet/socket. I have a 3/8" straight short ratchet a longer one with a swivel head. Gives more leverage and easier fit into tighter areas.

Since yours is already stripped, I'd get a replacement bolt before you change the oil to save future headaches. You said its an 18 so def not the first oil change on the car. Sounds like the last person torqued it tight. I generally don't use a torque wrench on oil changes. My spec is tightenough. 32ft lb seems a bit on the tighter side for a drain plug but not overly so.
 
Great, another tool to get. I think one of the earlier posts in here mentioned this actually evacuates more oil than through the drain plug.
 
Great, another tool to get. I think one of the earlier posts in here mentioned this actually evacuates more oil than through the drain plug.
To prove that point. We’re supposed to have 7.29 qt (6.9 liters)…

and I knew the dealer had overfilled mine just looking at the dipstick.

I extracted well over 7.5 liters (7.93 quarts).
And that doesn’t include the oil stuck in the oil cooler 453FC430-2026-4B6E-BADA-E2FB23F79D54.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
To prove that point. We’re supposed to have 7.29 qt (6.9 liters)…

and I knew the dealer had overfilled mine just looking at the dipstick.

I extracted well over 7.5 liters (7.93 quarts).
And that doesn’t include the oil stuck in the oil cooler View attachment 61731
Bruh what even is that! looks pretty cool tho
^^Does yours look like this? (from a youtube video
)

What engine do you have?

View attachment 61727

He doesn't say what engine that is, but I think its the 3.3 based on the sound and the calipers. Unless the pic is deceiving, it look like there's plenty of room to fit a ratchet/socket. I have a 3/8" straight short ratchet a longer one with a swivel head. Gives more leverage and easier fit into tighter areas.

Since yours is already stripped, I'd get a replacement bolt before you change the oil to save future headaches. You said its an 18 so def not the first oil change on the car. Sounds like the last person torqued it tight. I generally don't use a torque wrench on oil changes. My spec is tightenough. 32ft lb seems a bit on the tighter side for a drain plug but not overly so.
hmm it does look like he has more space honestly but I will give it another look today! any chance you know what bolt size that would be? are all plugs the same size? I've never replaced one before so I'm not 100% sure
 
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Sorry.. My car has barely 400 miles on it. No oil change until ~1500mi. You could try contacting a dealer to see if they'll give you diameter/thread spec.
 
Does anyone know the answer to this ?

On the front, lower area of the oil filter housing ( not the bowl ) there is a hex plug as pictured below.

Does anyone know if that's a drain port or is it the plug for the filter bypass valve?

Thanks in advance.
20210830_111340.webp
 
Bruh what even is that! looks pretty cool tho

hmm it does look like he has more space honestly but I will give it another look today! any chance you know what bolt size that would be? are all plugs the same size? I've never replaced one before so I'm not 100% sure
Which bolt are you talking about ?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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