Burger Tuning JB4 - 2.0T!

[ecarht]

Your mods are similar to mine. I would recommend the Racechip XLR Throttle Controller. As it is known, it doesn't add power, but allows you to access it quicker. For me, I've noticed an improvement between shifts. I leave it in Sport +, Race and Race +. Having it in Race Plus while the car's mode is in Sport is as noticeable as the difference between the car's Normal and Sport mode. Anyone else using a throttle controller?

Looking forward for something like that ! Sounds fun and interesting!

 

[ecarht]

Post csv file.

Any thoughts on the csv/log file I uploaded? I'm really curious about some feedback from experienced users. Thanks a lot!

 

[ChaneRZ]

Very minimal timing corrections. Good log for the map and octane you are using.

 

[ecarht]

Very minimal timing corrections. Good log for the map and octane you are using.

Thank you so much! really appreciating.
What are these timing corrections about?
I’m really careful with the car as I’ve remained a bit paraniod after my first issue with the first engine..
Any suggestions to look after? trying to run as safe as possible.

Best,

 

[ChaneRZ]

Timing correction means that fuel has detonated at a time other than the spark plug. Specifically, we pull timing when separate denotation happens after the spark. This is known as "knock" because two (or more) flame fronts are created (some from heat and compression, and another from the spark plug), which interfere causing vibrations which sound often sound like a metal pinging. Luckily, our modern cars come with knock-sensors, so we can detect when knock happens, and correct timing.

DATALOGGING: PART II - Timing

Understand and Diagnosing Timing

drivetribe.com

———————————-

Basically you lose power when you have -degree of corrections to protect the engine. Heatsoak and lower octane are the main culprit.

 

[ecarht]

Thank you so much for the detalied infos & feedback. Means a lot to me as I'm trying to be extra careful with the new engine and prevent any surprise like I had before with the Cylinder 3.
Are my timings looking good? Is everything else looking safe to go? Do I need to do anything?
I need to mention that I use the plugs as they came (the M45XL), didn't gap them. They come at 0,7mm.
Should I gap them to 0,6>mm or leave them as they are?

Sorry for so many questions, I'm just trying to make sure I don't cause any harm to the engine with my current setup & enjoy everything safely.
Thank you, once again!

Later edit: after I read your post, went to the Datalogging website. Read my CSV and saw there was a 6.0 timing correction at around 2600 rpm on map 2. Wondering if this is a thing to worry about.

 

[ecarht]

Coming up with a new Log containing Map 1, Map 2 and Map 3 using 100+ RON (only). No other additives or anything else.
Would love to hear your thoughts. (Was a bit wet, raining outside but I found a perfect spot to do the logs).

Each log is made from stand still (no launch control, only WOT from Auto-Hold)

Thank you!

 

[monusa]

Thank you so much for the detalied infos & feedback. Means a lot to me as I'm trying to be extra careful with the new engine and prevent any surprise like I had before with the Cylinder 3.
Are my timings looking good? Is everything else looking safe to go? Do I need to do anything?
I need to mention that I use the plugs as they came (the M45XL), didn't gap them. They come at 0,7mm.
Should I gap them to 0,6>mm or leave them as they are?

err on the side of caution in ALL aspects. May be the difference between enjoying the car or engine replacement.......take it slow and get verification on each map. if the word you receive here does not do it for you, send logs to Terry@bms..........

There are some guys here in the forum like @ChaneRZ , others who have the knowledge and unless proven otherwise, they won't tell you a bunch of crap. If the advice is to pay attention to plug gap, do logs, etc., then by all means, "heed that advice"!!!!! Rome wasn't built in a day.........neither will tuning an engine.

 

[ecarht]

err on the side of caution in ALL aspects. May be the difference between enjoying the car or engine replacement.......take it slow and get verification on each map. if the word you receive here does not do it for you, send logs to Terry@bms..........

There are some guys here in the forum like @ChaneRZ , others who have the knowledge and unless proven otherwise, they won't tell you a bunch of crap. If the advice is to pay attention to plug gap, do logs, etc., then by all means, "heed that advice"!!!!! Rome wasn't built in a day.........neither will tuning an engine.

Facts over there Thank you! Already having @ChaneRZ which has been of big help already together with all of you. Would be curious to hear Terry's thoughts as well but don't know where to contact him tho, ha.

 

[monusa]

Facts over there Thank you! Already having @ChaneRZ which has been of big help already together with all of you. Would be curious to hear Terry's thoughts as well but don't know where to contact him tho, ha.

He is on this forum a bit but I am pretty sure he is quite busy so time here may be limited....you can also check out the Kia/Hyundia thread on the forum below and last but not least, shoot an email at the support link at BMS......

Lot of info here:

Kia & Hyundai Turbo - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion

 

[ecarht]

He is on this forum a bit but I am pretty sure he is quite busy so time here may be limited....you can also check out the Kia/Hyundia thread on the forum below and last but not least, shoot an email at the support link at BMS......

Lot of info here:

Kia & Hyundai Turbo - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion

Much appreciated! Thank you

 

[ecarht]

Coming back with quick update. Did some logs on Map 3 with 100+ octane gas and Octane Booster. Everything looks super smooth on the engine side, minimal timing corrections, quite surprised. 5.1s 0-60 (wow for the 2.0t).
Here's the thing, I think I'm either a bit unlucky or faulty elements.

I ended up having no boost turbo and I was wondering what happened (got some wastegate error codes).
Popped the hood and realised the actuator broke (Attaching a picture with what actually broke, broke like in two pieces - picture attached is for the reference as an idea with what broke).
After the metal arm broke, Wastegate was stuck in closed position and hardly gets unstuck to open position (can't move it by free hand out of closed position). My question is, doesn't the Wastegate need to move freely/easily? It's weird that it gets stuck in closed position so I think the actuator tried pulling back to open and then it gets that metal arm broken/shattered. Weird. Anyone had this issue.. am I missing anything?

Map3 shows on the dash of the app a max boost of 1.82 bar. Map 2 is around 1.60, Map 1 is around 1.40bar (inside the csv log, it shows in PSI and Map3 reached a max of 22.6 PSI so I don't know which one to trust, ha).. Does the Turbo of 2.0 Stinger doesn't support these boosts? I never used anything else but the first 3 maps (and never for a long time and always with the right combination of fuel).
I rarely "race" the car. But when I do, in those 5% of the times, something happens. Annoying.

Map 3 log attached as well.

 

[Jonny2.0T]

Hey guys. I just bought a stinger 2.0 i was wondering if anyone has dyno results for the jb4 map 2 on the 2.0 i can find results for the 3.3 but not 2.0

 

[monusa]

Hey guys. I just bought a stinger 2.0 i was wondering if anyone has dyno results for the jb4 map 2 on the 2.0 i can find results for the 3.3 but not 2.0

Search through here and maybe the tuning thread. there are a couple of posts on dyno runs......

 

[Jonny2.0T]

T

Search through here and maybe the tuning thread. there are a couple of posts on dyno runs......

Thank you

 

[frostedshreddies]

Hi guys, I have a 2.0L RHD RWD stinger. I’ve gotten the JB4 And OBD2 connection installed and it works fine. But I have no idea how to unplug the stock fuel wire adaptor to plug in the BMS PNP fuel adaptor.

I think this is the stock adaptor. Is there a catch I need to press to pull it out, or do I just pull it harder, or do I pull/push it in a different direction? Any help appreciated thanks!

 

[Sunseeker]

Hey guys. I just bought a stinger 2.0 i was wondering if anyone has dyno results for the jb4 map 2 on the 2.0 i can find results for the 3.3 but not 2.0

I got 240 hp to the wheels on Map 2 and 93 octane, but shop guy only printed out Map 1 and 3 on my dyno chart. I also have mods that factored in (full cat back race exhaust, injen intake, hks plugs).

 

[G-802559]

Since I received my Premium in February, I had the notion that I was going to get it tuned to increase the amount of daily smiles this car brings. I thought to go the Lap3 route, but decided to wait to see what others were going to put out. RaceChip mentioned they were going to start tuning the 2.0T and that came into thought, but they've placed our motor on the back burner to focus on other applications. I get it and totally understand.

Several weeks(maybe months) ago I reached out to Terry at Burger Motorsports about a tune and he was open to the idea, but wanted someone to stop into their shop for fitting. No takers that I'm aware of.

Over the course of several weeks, I would stop by the N54Tech forums that are run by Burger Motorsports to check on any updates to the stinger platform and read the comments people were posting. Once comment had me thinking... Someone asked about ByteTronik which looks and operated much like the jb4. Then, Terry from BMS said they've license the jb4 to ByteTronik and recently took back ownership of tuning for the platform. ByteTronik has a product for the 2.0, so it seems like the jb4 would also work. So I sent an email to Burger and asked if it would work and got the reply I was hoping for, "yes it does work for the 2.0T"! Then BMS got the CANbus working and I was sold.

Placed the order last Tuesday for the jb4 and jb4 connect kit, was told the package will arrive on Saturday. The day comes and anxiously checked the USPS about delivery, notified they cannot deliver since nobody as home to sign. But, I was there! Looked at the time, saw that it was within minutes and proceeded to drive around the neighborhood to collect my package. I found him!

Saturday involved regapping my stock spark plugs and installing the jb4 all of which was very straightforward. The only issue was that the jb4 connect kit was a brand new version and would not connect to the device. I contacted support and they sent me a beta version of their app, which I installed this morning and worked!

Overall very happy with the purchase and install process. the stock tune peaked at around 14lbs of boost and map1 peaked at 19lbs. I'm sure there's an overboost function to get to the 19lbs. No codes and no issues thus far, but its only been a few days.

I tried map 2 and got a misfire during WOT, looks like I'll be sticking to map1 for a while.

How is the car doing now ? I want to get the jb4 for my 2.0t stinger

 

[SenuraS]

Hey man could you send a picture of the way you ran your cable through the door jamb? I’m thinking it’s easier running this way so it’s way to take off when going in for service

Same concern here since i plan on upgrading to the GT. "technically", nothing shows since you are NOT modifying the ECU. i got 2yrs of oil changes with my Stinger and a couple of days before i have an appointment, i don't mess with the plugs, drop the JB4 MAP down to 0 (which is short for "disabled") before shutting the engine down. Disconnect the sensors and plug the stock connectors back and remove the JB4 as well as the OBD2 adapter if you use it (miss a lot of info and some functionality if you don't, i run my OBD2 connector the lazy way through the door jam instead of through the floor). The K&N filter has no affect on warranty except that they can't sell you one of the over-priced stock ones. i do my own service scheduling so i have a day or two to remove the unit and pack it in the box until after the service. when i pull it into the dealer, no hint at all that JB4 was ever connected. sorry for the long-winded answer but i wanted you to get the whole idea before you spent your cash

 

[justa2ohh]

Hi guys, I have a 2.0L RHD RWD stinger. I’ve gotten the JB4 And OBD2 connection installed and it works fine. But I have no idea how to unplug the stock fuel wire adaptor to plug in the BMS PNP fuel adaptor.

I think this is the stock adaptor. Is there a catch I need to press to pull it out, or do I just pull it harder, or do I pull/push it in a different direction? Any help appreciated thanks!

View attachment 60070

I’m wondering the same thing? @Terry@BMS