Rattling, Creaking & Interior Noises - Formal Cases with Kia Corporate

[SKStinger]

Thanks! And someone thinks this emanates sound from the sunroof area? I can see how it might cause a different rattle if loose, but?!?!

Np. Yep, apparently it causes vibration that travels up the pillars into the roof and makes it sound like the sunroof is loose/rattling. It's a cheap fix so worth investigating.

 

[FitR6]

Thanks! And someone thinks this emanates sound from the sunroof area? I can see how it might cause a different rattle if loose, but?!?!

They did create a different sound for me. Dealership told me they were loose when I first bought the car and clipped them in, but I still hear the sound. My sunroof rattle was a completely different issue and after numerous attempts, is quiet....for now. The other sound from what I assume was from the rocker clips is still there, though I only hear it when driving past parked cars or into car parking areas with high walls where the sound bounces off the other object straight back at me.

 

[Obsidius]

I have had a completely different case of rattles. Kia are trying to figure out and even getting another demo kia involved to troubleshoot. I have rattling coming from somewhere behind the bottom right of the steering wheel (RHD) at 4K+ revs. is seems to dissipate when the car is warm, but not always. Kia cant seem to figure it out! and they have had it for almost 2 weeks in total trying to figure it out

On the plus side, they resprayed my bonnet under warranty due to chipping around the accents after the first warranty respray... got out some stone chips for free in that one so thats a win. Also got the place that did the respray to completely debadge the card and fill in the badge holes. Looks pretty nice at the 5 minutes i got with it before Kia took it back for the rattle troubleshooting.

 

[NS_Stinger]

After many attempts I sorted out my hatch sounds but the car also has creaking noises from the pillars and roof when driving on rough roads especially in the colder months. The sounds are pretty annoying considering my CR-V has zero issues like this and isn’t supposed to be a “gran turismo”.

 

[pmarris86]

Rear hatch rattle fix costs $1 and 5 minutes to fix ourselves. Look it up on here.

There are treatments for the rubber seals to quiet them. Look it up on here.

There is more useful info on here than at any dealer or from KIA corporate

Hi Marc

I am new to the forum, how do I look up the fixes for the rear hatch and the rubber seals please?

I think my 2017 Stinger has all the rattles listed.

 

[Marc Collins]

Hi Marc

I am new to the forum, how do I look up the fixes for the rear hatch and the rubber seals please?

I think my 2017 Stinger has all the rattles listed.

Using the search feature of this site (top-right corner) would presumably be the smartest way to quickly find anything here.

 

[ht_addict]

Maybe try out ATQ sub collar bolts. Highly recommend. Just had them installed in my 2020. Really tightens things up. For those with noise issues, see if you can get your dealer or KIA to agree to refund sub collar bolt cost if it resolves the issue.

2018-2023 Kia Stinger 3.3L Subframe Collars

The ATQ Subframe Collars are a must have on any Kia Stinger. The product will enhance overall drivability of the vehicle. Customers will notice much better handling, less interior rattles, a smoother driving experience and improved steering. This product is very easy to install, and it is one of...

atqauto.com

 

[smokeybear]

Stinger owners are not alone, have a quick look at Skoda Superb owners with similar irritating noises, on the Briskoda dot net site. Sorry there's no link, this is my first post, no links allowed

I've noticed that many vehicles with a large rear hatch/door/gate are much more prone to rattles, noises and squeaks than Sedans or Coupes

It is probably related to the long open floor loading area, and the subsequent lack of hard metal support (or bracing) across the vehicle between the two rear suspension mounts.

In Sedans or Coupes there is invariably a large solid braced sheet metal rear seat attachment, as well as a fairly solid rear metal parcel shelf.

A massive hinged rear opening and closing hatch (mostly glass) is not going to do a lot for rear structural rigidity !

 

[MerlintheMad]

Stinger owners are not alone, have a quick look at Skoda Superb owners with similar irritating noises, on the Briskoda dot net site. Sorry there's no link, this is my first post, no links allowed

I've noticed that many vehicles with a large rear hatch/door/gate are much more prone to rattles, noises and squeaks than Sedans or Coupes

It is probably related to the long open floor loading area, and the subsequent lack of hard metal support (or bracing) across the vehicle between the two rear suspension mounts.

In Sedans or Coupes there is invariably a large solid braced sheet metal rear seat attachment, as well as a fairly solid rear metal parcel shelf.

A massive hinged rear opening and closing hatch (mostly glass) is not going to do a lot for rear structural rigidity !

Except that if structural design integrity were compromised, extraneous noises would be the norm instead of an outlier problem. Kia made the Stinger's chassis like this so that extraneous noises would not arise from chassis flex:


Welcome to the forum.

 

[I Stung U]

over 30K kms on my 2019 GT Limited and no creaks or stuff here. Recently when I start it up, I believe the engine sound is a bit off/rattly or something... will pay closer attention.
Taking it in tomorrow for a tranny reset and ask them to look at why the 3-4 upshift sometimes takes an extra click or two, and to take a listen to that engine start up sound.. but when it's cold is better

 

[ht_addict]

over 30K kms on my 2019 GT Limited and no creaks or stuff here. Recently when I start it up, I believe the engine sound is a bit off/rattly or something... will pay closer attention.
Taking it in tomorrow for a tranny reset and ask them to look at why the 3-4 upshift sometimes takes an extra click or two, and to take a listen to that engine start up sound.. but when it's cold is better

Why the transmission rest?

 

[MerlintheMad]

Why the transmission rest?

It's a long-standing TSB, if your Stinger develops hard shifting points; they "reflash" the transmission logic (I'm repeating what I've been reading; the service manager at "my" dealership has reminded me several times over the years that the records show that my car has not received that TSB; and my answer is always the same: "If it ain't broke, don't mess with it.")

 

[I Stung U]

Why the transmission rest?

the automatic downshift as I brake has become more aggressive and annoying. at lower speeds coming o a stop, it downshift harder than before. Not normal. Not crazy, but not normal.
Car is at New dealership that just opened today walking distance to me.

 

[WRXtoStingerGT]

the automatic downshift as I brake has become more aggressive and annoying. at lower speeds coming o a stop, it downshift harder than before. Not normal. Not crazy, but not normal.
Car is at New dealership that just opened today walking distance to me.

hopefully your car isn't a training experiment for them

good luck!!

 

[t2flair]

the automatic downshift as I brake has become more aggressive and annoying. at lower speeds coming o a stop, it downshift harder than before. Not normal. Not crazy, but not normal.
Car is at New dealership that just opened today walking distance to me.

Did the reset help your issue?

 

[I Stung U]

Did the reset help your issue?

Yes, it did. both the in D mode slowing down and hard downshift and the manual 3-2 gear downshift. Not perfectly smooth on the latter, but much better. upshift not going into 4th unless i tap 2-3 rd times, not sure yet, cause it wasn't happening every time, but smaller % of the time, so a little time will have to pass with many usage taps to assess that one.

 

[Marc Collins]

Yes, it did. both the in D mode slowing down and hard downshift and the manual 3-2 gear downshift. Not perfectly smooth on the latter, but much better. upshift not going into 4th unless i tap 2-3 rd times, not sure yet, cause it wasn't happening every time, but smaller % of the time, so a little time will have to pass with many usage taps to assess that one.

What speed are you trying to upshift into 4th?

Every manual mode on every automatic transmission car ignores the driver request if it falls outside the pre-programmed range. The Stinger is on the extreme obedient end of the spectrum. Most cars with manual shifting are undriveable (or, not worth putting into manual mode) because they refuse to ignore any atypical shift requests. If you only wanted the car to shift as it would shift itself in "D," there is no need for manual. The programming instructions for most of these is to not allow the driver to do anything with even a remote chance of causing an issue or that is past about 5% difference from what the car would do on its own. Up-shifting too quickly is one of those issues, because you can get caught needing to accelerate and the car will not (as expected) due to bogging. The other common "solution" to this problem is that the car simply ignores manual mode when you press the accelerator past a certain point--it will revert to D and down-shift for you, even when it is completely unnecessary according to the actual conditions (that you as the driver can see and are trying to manage versus the blind car responding to an algorithm).

As mentioned, Stinger is not that bad--it assumes the driver has some modicum of intelligence. But it will definitely not up-shift prior to when it has calculated it is acceptable based on throttle position and speed. So, if you tell us the speed this is happening, we can confirm that all the other cars do the same thing, or, you will have evidence to present to KIA that yours is broken.

 

[I Stung U]

What speed are you trying to upshift into 4th?

Every manual mode on every automatic transmission car ignores the driver request if it falls outside the pre-programmed range. The Stinger is on the extreme obedient end of the spectrum. Most cars with manual shifting are undriveable (or, not worth putting into manual mode) because they refuse to ignore any atypical shift requests. If you only wanted the car to shift as it would shift itself in "D," there is no need for manual. The programming instructions for most of these is to not allow the driver to do anything with even a remote chance of causing an issue or that is past about 5% difference from what the car would do on its own. Up-shifting too quickly is one of those issues, because you can get caught needing to accelerate and the car will not (as expected) due to bogging. The other common "solution" to this problem is that the car simply ignores manual mode when you press the accelerator past a certain point--it will revert to D and down-shift for you, even when it is completely unnecessary according to the actual conditions (that you as the driver can see and are trying to manage versus the blind car responding to an algorithm).

As mentioned, Stinger is not that bad--it assumes the driver has some modicum of intelligence. But it will definitely not up-shift prior to when it has calculated it is acceptable based on throttle position and speed. So, if you tell us the speed this is happening, we can confirm that all the other cars do the same thing, or, you will have evidence to present to KIA that yours is broken.

various ways. I thought maybe i wasn't accelerating hard enough or tapped it up at too low of rpm, but it does it in various situations.. it doesn't do it in other shifts, even if I do it on the early side.. but in 3-4 it happens in various rpm and level of push... so it's the cars imperfections, not driver thing.

 

[I Stung U]

Paying more attention, I do hear some twitchy sounds, but still no real rattles.. I think those I hear are normal.
A buddy of mine was in it who's car savvy, and thought it sounded solid and a nice ride, as I drove him home mix of street and hwy.
He used to own a S4 and he still has a Charger SRT ( like 6-7 years old, whenever they first came out and being over 400hp and the new big thing).

 

[PantheraMetal]

Paying more attention, I do hear some twitchy sounds, but still no real rattles.. I think those I hear are normal.
A buddy of mine was in it who's car savvy, and thought it sounded solid and a nice ride, as I drove him home mix of street and hwy.
He used to own a S4 and he still has a Charger SRT ( like 6-7 years old, whenever they first came out and being over 400hp and the new big thing).

I was getting twitchy sounds from the weather stripping drying out, try this: with your door closed, press up and down on the soft bouncy weather seal between your door and car frame. If you hear that friction-ey noise then its the weather stripping.

solved with either gummi pfledge conditioner on the soft stripping (temporary, need to reapply every few months) or apply felt tape to the window trim (permanent, see pics)