Frameless Auto Dimming and Universal Remote Rear View Mirror

Ugh...my pin config is totally different than the one pictured above and I don't have access to a multimeter. I have wires running to 8 of 10 pins...

If you hold off on the install I’m sure you can find a harness that will convert it for you. Nothing wrong with running wires if you want to do that though.
 
I was just going to tap the wires on the back of the existing mirror harness but now I don't know what wires to tap. I'm just getting annoyed now and considering selling the mirror and moving on.
 
I was just going to tap the wires on the back of the existing mirror harness but now I don't know what wires to tap. I'm just getting annoyed now and considering selling the mirror and moving on.

Hold on to it for now. I’ll help you out once I make it back stateside. Assuming you can wait for 2 weeks, I’ll help you get in business with it.
 
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That's weird. Mine use the rearview mirror sensor.

The circuitry for each is different. The trigger (12v+) for the side view mirrors cannot be used independently, and requires input from the headlights (i.e., headlights must be on to trigger side view dim). The rear view is independent and utilizes the sensor on the back of the mirror to trigger 12v, and dim the mirror.

if you didn’t use a PNP mirror and instead are trying to individually pin...I don’t know what to tell you besides good luck since the pin out locations for different manufacturers is going to be different. It’s easy to find 12v and ground...anything using variable voltage for specific triggers will be more complex.
 
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So I ended up installing this mirror. I ran the wires along the headliner, down behind the a-pillar and inside the door rubber to the fuse box and zip-tied them out of the way, I didn't power the autodimming yet because I need to go buy a mini "add a circuit" so I can jump it off an existing fuse location. I figured this is the cleanest, safest and totally reversible way if I decide to ever go back to stock.

In the meantime the garage door opener works since the remote is battery powered. The mirror looks great, the only thing I'm going to add is a short wire loom to better hide the exposed red/black wires coming off the back of the new mirror.
 

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Any difference in visibility / viewing angles between OEM and this one?
 
Any difference in visibility / viewing angles between OEM and this one?
I can't say for sure since I haven't driven the car yet since install. I'd take it out but I've been drinking diet pepsi's for the last couple hours.

The widest part of the new mirror is at the top versus the bottom on the oem, but I did a quick look at it and I can see the entire rear window still so no issues with that. Definitely looks much cleaner over the big thick frame on the oem one.
 
if you didn’t use a PNP mirror and instead are trying to individually pin

I'm not rewiring anything. I was just pointing out, in reply to the originator of this thread (and anyone that follows this advice):
I just had to tap into ignition (pin 6) and ground (pin 8) wires to power the auto dimming. Not too difficult.
.. that this will disable the side mirror auto dim, because the sensor on the main rear-view controls them as well.
 
So I ended up installing this mirror. I ran the wires along the headliner, down behind the a-pillar and inside the door rubber to the fuse box and zip-tied them out of the way, I didn't power the autodimming yet because I need to go buy a mini "add a circuit" so I can jump it off an existing fuse location. I figured this is the cleanest, safest and totally reversible way if I decide to ever go back to stock.

In the meantime the garage door opener works since the remote is battery powered. The mirror looks great, the only thing I'm going to add is a short wire loom to better hide the exposed red/black wires coming off the back of the new mirror.

I took some photos of the wires and T-taps I used for the aftermarket mirror.

Tap Pin 8 (black color wire) for ground. Tap Pin 6 (brown color wire) for ignition.

On Stingers that did not come with factory Homelink, Pin 10 (battery) is blank or not connected. If you bought an OEM Homelink mirror from a Premium, GT1, or GT2 model, you have to wire Pin 10 for the Homelink to work.

Lastly, another poster mentioned that Stingers with autodimming side mirrors use the sensors in the main mirror for the auto-dimming side mirrors.

That is probably true. But since 2018 base and GT models did not come with autodimming side mirrors, wiring an aftermarket mirror should not cause a problem.



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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm not rewiring anything. I was just pointing out, in reply to the originator of this thread (and anyone that follows this advice):

.. that this will disable the side mirror auto dim, because the sensor on the main rear-view controls them as well.

So much misinformation in this thread.

If you don’t wire the auto-dim function you will lose the side-dim mirrors. While you can independently wire the auto-dim (i.e., add a circuit) you will lose the auto-dim side mirror function.

To retain both you need to either use a PNP mirror OR fully wire the new mirror to the existing wiring. This is easy to do with a DMM and something to block the front and rear sensors on the mirror. All you need to do is find the wire that either goes to (12v or ground) when the mirror dims and tap that to the wire on the car side that activates the same function with the side mirrors. That’s it.

Simply using 12v (ignition) and ground is not sufficient if you want to retain all functionality.
 
So much misinformation in this thread.

If you don’t wire the auto-dim function you will lose the side-dim mirrors. While you can independently wire the auto-dim (i.e., add a circuit) you will lose the auto-dim side mirror function.

To retain both you need to either use a PNP mirror OR fully wire the new mirror to the existing wiring. This is easy to do with a DMM and something to block the front and rear sensors on the mirror. All you need to do is find the wire that either goes to (12v or ground) when the mirror dims and tap that to the wire on the car side that activates the same function with the side mirrors. That’s it.

Simply using 12v (ignition) and ground is not sufficient if you want to retain all functionality.
I might see if I can wire the ground and 12v from the new mirror into the existing harness to see if I can save the side mirror dim function, but it might not be possible. I don't know electrical very well but I'll try to see if I can uae a multimeter to put the red wire in the same pin that will cause the side mirrors to dim and use the existing ground in the oem harness. Would that be possible do you think? If not I will just continue on with my fusebox location and hope that the side mirrors aren't too bothersome without the dim function.

What I will say after my first drive today is that the mirror is slightly smaller than oem but at 5'10"-5'11" in my driving position I can still see the entire width out the rear window. The garage door opener quality is top notch and has a crazy range. I have a long driveway and I could open the garage while I was way down at the street.
 
NVM - Found them

Rostra 250-8709 (Edge-to-Edge, Auto dimming, compass, homelink)
Rostra 250-8705 (Edge-to-Edge, Auto dimming)
Rostra 250-8706 (Edge-to-Edge, Auto dimming, compass)
Rostra 250-8708 (Edge-to-Edge, Auto dimming, homelink)

Just came back to update this thread and confirm as I suspected the mirrors above are indeed PNP. There’s no running any wires and everything functions, including dimming side mirrors. Unplug the harness, unscrew they set screw and install the new mirror in reverse order.

The newer mirrors do not allow the garage door to open without the car being in accessory or ignition mode. This was an intentional design to prevent a car from being broken into and the garage opened. So if you routinely use Homelink without the car being on, you may be disappointed. For everyone else..it’s completely PNP and idiot proof.
 
But hasn't it been confirmed that not all Stinger mirror harnesses have the same pinout? You'll have to clarify what mirror your car has and what trim level you have.
 
But hasn't it been confirmed that not all Stinger mirror harnesses have the same pinout? You'll have to clarify what mirror your car has and what trim level you have.

I’m not sure what you mean.
KIA/HYUNDAI has been using the same harness for at least 4 years. I can confirm fitment, not only on the Stinger GT1 and GT2, but also my 2017 Elantra Sport, 2018 Sonata Sport 2.0T, and my wife’s 2020 Telluride EX.

Simply pull the mirror and see how many pins are in the harness. It will have a 10 pin harness but only 6 wires, at most, are being used on the upper trim models, which makes sense if you unplug the mirror and look at the connector, you’ll see only 6 pins so the harness not including those pins is irrelevant, which also means the wiring is going to be fairly consistent. The frameless mirror will 5 wires being used thanks to the exclusion of 12v constant in an attempt to prevent Homelink burglaries.

This isn’t anything new or particular to the Stinger. OEM mirrors are used across a range of different vehicle manufacturers. The same mirror I’m using is a PNP mirror for the Toyota Tundra as well and the pins are an exact match.

In summary, the OEM mirror in the Stinger is not specific to the Stinger or even KIA. It is used in several other vehicles. Find the correct model mirror and it’s a PNP job.

If your model didn’t come with Homelink or didn’t auto-dim, check your harness — if you see 6 wires then your car is pre-wired, you just didn’t have the mirror to take advantage so it’ll be PNP once you get the new mirror on. If you don’t have 6 wires then you’ll need to run accessory to the new mirror, which is also very easy to do.

It would not be surprising if all the cars had the same wiring but the mirror itself is what provided the additional “features”. Swap the mirror and gain the features, but we’ll see when someone who didn’t originally have Homelink comes along.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So here's the original mirror:

This would be the stock mirror for the GT1/GT2 in the USDM. Unfortunately, I'm unaware of the worldwide trims and which features are included in each trim. But if you have auto-dim, compass, and Homelink, then this is your mirror.

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Here's the ten-pin plug, with six wires being used for the stock mirror

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Here's the mirror that I'm replacing the stock mirror with

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Here's the harness for the new mirror, it is still the same ten-pin plug, but with five wires used.

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Now the stock harness is PNP.

BUT if you were curious for the pinout of the five wires, here are some snapshots of those wires.

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I’m not sure what you mean.
KIA/HYUNDAI has been using the same harness for at least 4 years. I can confirm fitment, not only on the Stinger GT and GT2, but also my 2017 Elantra Sport, 2018 Sonata Sport 2.0T, and my wife’s 2020 Telluride EX.

Simply pull the mirror and see how many pins are in the harness. It will have a 10 pin harness but only 6 wires, at most, are being used on the upper trim models, which makes sense if you unplug the mirror and look at the connector, you’ll see only 6 pins so the harness not including those pins is irrelevant, which also means the wiring is going to be fairly consistent. The frameless mirror will 5 wires being used thanks to the exclusion of 12v constant in an attempt to prevent Homelink burglaries.

This isn’t anything new or particular to the Stinger. OEM mirrors are used across a range of different vehicle manufacturers. The same mirror I’m using is a PNP mirror for the Toyota Tundra as well and the pins are an exact match.

In summary, the OEM mirror in the Stinger is not specific to the Stinger or even KIA. It is used in several other vehicles. Find the correct model mirror and it’s a PNP job.

If your model didn’t come with Homelink or didn’t auto-dim, check your harness — if you see 6 wires then your car is pre-wired, you just didn’t have the mirror to take advantage so it’ll be PNP once you get the new mirror on. If you don’t have 6 wires then you’ll need to run accessory to the new mirror, which is also very easy to do.

It would not be surprising if all the cars had the same wiring but the mirror itself is what provided the additional “features”. Swap the mirror and gain the features, but we’ll see when someone who didn’t originally have Homelink comes along.

Hey, that someone is me! The standard GT that comes without the Homelink buttons does not have pin 10 wired on the harness. You can install the GT1/GT2 mirror and get auto dim and compass functionality, but the Homelink buttons don't work. It's a simple fix, just run acc power to pin 10, but it won't plug and play 100%.
 
Hey, that someone is me! The standard GT that comes without the Homelink buttons does not have pin 10 wired on the harness. You can install the GT1/GT2 mirror and get auto dim and compass functionality, but the Homelink buttons don't work. It's a simple fix, just run acc power to pin 10, but it won't plug and play 100%.

Thanks and that’s what I was looking for.

To clarify, you don’t mean that your car didn’t have the 10 pin harness? Just that your car doesn’t have pin 10 in the 10 pin harness and therefore Homelink didn’t work until you ran ACC?
 
Thanks and that’s what I was looking for.

To clarify, you don’t mean that your car didn’t have the 10 pin harness? Just that your car doesn’t have pin 10 in the 10 pin harness and therefore Homelink didn’t work until you ran ACC?

The second one. Exact same harness, it just plugs right in, but pin 10 is not wired, so there is no power to the Homelink stuff.

Have not bothered fixing it yet, to be fair. I mostly wanted the compass. Haha. Thoughts on the easiest way to do that? I was assuming there would be some kind of adapting harness somewhere, but no luck.
 
The second one. Exact same harness, it just plugs right in, but pin 10 is not wired, so there is no power to the Homelink stuff.

Have not bothered fixing it yet, to be fair. I mostly wanted the compass. Haha. Thoughts on the easiest way to do that? I was assuming there would be some kind of adapting harness somewhere, but no luck.

If you have the compass then you have 12v in that harness. It’s a matter of jumping it to pin 10.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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