Eibach F/R Swaybar Review!

[MerlintheMad]

Sorry, I should have been clear, if you want to check if bracket shifted from middle, you can check by putting your hand in slot (if it's that big). My rear sway is getting put on. I would know soon.

Aha. I don't "lay on hands". I would have to get the car in the air to do that anyway.

 

[Ruturaj]

My bars wouldn't move, since they were already off the car, I am not sure if they would have bent than moving or vice versa when more force/weight/torque.

PS: just got the rear done for now. Excited to drive it.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

My bars wouldn't move, since they were already off the car, I am not sure if they would have bent than moving or vice versa when more force/weight/torque.

PS: just got the rear done for now. Excited to drive it.

Yea, once they're torqued down, they're pretty solidly in place. But I understand Merlin's concern anyway, lol

 

[Ruturaj]

The guys were super awesome. They talked about the job, my car, other cars super nicely. Charged me 91 including taxes for rear sways. Totally recommend Automotive Performance & Chassis in Cary.

 

[Ruturaj]

Yea, once they're torqued down, they're pretty solidly in place. But I understand Merlin's concern anyway, lol

A lot of people were concerned and few don't believe it. Merlin is pretty open minded actually.

 

[YOWStinger]

I'm installing my rear sway tomorrow, still waiting on front

 

[YOWStinger]

I'm installing my rear sway tomorrow, still waiting on front

Holy shit guys how did you get the brackets off, I've got extensions and ujoints but the nuts are really on there, I had to use my pneumatic drill to take the endlinks off, these ones are on there just as good.

 

[YOWStinger]

Holy shit guys how did you get the brackets off, I've got extensions and ujoints but the nuts are really on there, I had to use my pneumatic drill to take the endlinks off, these ones are on there just as good.

Yeah, I don't have anything that can get the necessary torque onto those nuts, and the fuel line is completely blocking access to one on the driver's side.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Holy shit guys how did you get the brackets off

Yeah, I don't have anything that can get the necessary torque onto those nuts

Pay to play. Don't do this at home. Of course, YMMV. But really, why knock yourself out?

 

[YOWStinger]

Pay to play. Don't do this at home. Of course, YMMV. But really, why knock yourself out?

I’ve put sways on a few cars, no concerns doing it, so long as I’m not dropping the subframe and can figure out how to get on top of those nuts. I’m grabbing a longer ratchet that should do it. What I’ve got isn’t cutting it.

 

[YOWStinger]

I’ve put sways on a few cars, no concerns doing it, so long as I’m not dropping the subframe and can figure out how to get on top of those nuts. I’m grabbing a longer ratchet that should do it. What I’ve got isn’t cutting it.

That one under the fuel line isn’t as bad as I originally thought, the line runs by at an angle, it looked like it was right on top, but there’s space.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

It seems like you figured it out, lol... Yea, once you actually get JUST the right angle and JUST the right length of socket wrench, it's actually easy. Finding that combo was the hardest part

 

[YOWStinger]

The socket length was tricky, I have short sockets and long sockets. Short was fine on all of the nuts except for the one under the fuel line. My long socket worked there until it was almost off then needed to switch to short.

Here's what I did.

Tools needed:

• 18" swivel head ratchet
  • https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W38181-Drive-Ratchet/dp/B00F0K9Z7E
• 14mm socket for the sway brackets (short and long, a 2" one might have come in handy)
• 17mm socket for endlink nuts
• 21mm socket for wheel nuts
• Jack and Jack stands
• Grease gun
• Marine grease

As everyone has mentioned, the stock swaybar is locked to the brackets. They do not rotate, and they work like a spring. They want to rotate up when no pressure is applied. If you remove the endlinks on both sides, the sway will rotate up, reducing your room to reach in. To make removing the stock sway easier, leave the endlinks attached while removing the brackets on the subframe. This holds the sway down.

An 18" or longer swivel head ratchet will get you on top of the bracket nuts and give the leverage necessary to get them off at about 5 degree turns. Work on the driver's side first, in case you get stuck and need to abort a combination of socket lengths may be necessary to get the nut under the fuel line off. Passenger side is a breeze comparatively.

Once the brackets are removed, unbolt the sway from the top of the endlinks on each side (I used my stock endlinks while waiting on the rear whiteline endlinks). Pull the sway out from the passenger side.

Apply some marine grease to the inside of the bushings. Open the bushings for the Eibach bar and slip over the sway bar, on the outside of the stops. It’s hard to get the grease gun on and off the nipples once the bar is installed, temporarily put the bracket over the bushings on each side and pump em full of grease. Eibach sway is still off the car.

Insert the bar from the passenger side of the car. The sway will rotate freely in the bushings. So rotate them down out of the way and lightly attach the nuts on the brackets. This will be a little trickier because of the "walls" on the brackets, makes it hard to get a socket onto them, I used a u-joint as a mini ratchet to get them finger tight by flipping the u-joint over, turning, flipping, turning.

The brackets have slots (they’re generic) so to make them evenly positioned, slide both of them all the way towards the front or rear of the car to make sure they’re aligned then tighten down with the 18" ratchet. Top up with grease. Attach the endlinks and hit the curves.

The rear sway alone, on soft, removed that floaty vagueness that has been bugging me. Car transitions through s-turns much better with less rolling. Car feels now like stock should feel like. I’m convinced that the locked OEM sway bar was pushing on the suspension through g-bumps which is what made the ass end feel like it was going to float away. The additional stiffness of the Eibach simply takes the roll out of the back end. 2 birds with one stone. I think everyone should definitely do this, you don’t know what you’re missing.

Looking forward to getting my springs and front sway. The rear is worth doing on its own, but I’m looking forward to a quicker turn in and less pitching and diving.

 

[itguy61]

I installed both on my GT2 and feel this is the way the car should have come from the factory. Car feels so much more respnsive to small steering inputs and corners much flatter. That unsettled rear end feeling is gone.

 

[bluegrass_gt2]

Holy shit guys how did you get the brackets off, I've got extensions and ujoints but the nuts are really on there, I had to use my pneumatic drill to take the endlinks off, these ones are on there just as good.

The biggest issue we had taking off the rear was the one nut on the drivers side that required me to become a contortionist to get on and off. Took us 2 hours to replace the back. Also we are not 100% sure that if we were not bagged it would have been easier to remove.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I installed both on my GT2 and feel this is the way the car should have come from the factory. Car feels so much more respnsive to small steering inputs and corners much flatter. That unsettled rear end feeling is gone.

Both at the same time? Because now you won't know what it feels like with just the rear bar.

I'm not interested in settling the rear end down, by adding the front bar, because the rear bar already did that. But your comment about steering input definitely has my attention.

Both bars affect steering input. I now understand that the stiffer bar in the rear trends toward oversteer (which I was already noticing, at least with the Nitto Motivo A/S). With the rear bar upgrade, the more planted rear end should have brought on oversteer easier, if what I am reading is truly applicable to the Stinger. But for months I've felt that oversteer was reduced. Most of the interval since getting the rear bar upgrade has been with TSW rims that weigh 13-14 lbs less than the OE GT rims; and back on Pilot summer tires; so the behavior of the heavier rims and A/S tires cannot be compared. I've changed too many factors in too short a time to be able to tell if the Eibach rear bar does in fact encourage oversteer.

I'm hoping between now and August (at the earliest) to pay close attention to the steering input with the rear bar and how that relates to oversteer; and then compare once I get the front bar in. So far, I haven't pushed a corner hard enough with the lighter TSW rims and Michelins to experience oversteer like before. And now my rear tires are very worn, so pushing won't really tell me anything beyond "you're losing grip, idjit!" I think the rear is slipping before any oversteer comes on. Grippier rear treads will allow me to try for oversteer again. But being parsimonious, I loathe the idea of junking my rear tires just yet.

 

[itguy61]

Merlin, I do not know about the AWD but on my RWD model both bars on soft seem to have made the car neutral most of the time. Before the bars it had understeer and with only the rear it was doing some oversteer. It has also calmed that back in down and taken away the unsettled feel it had in a hard corner.

 

[Manaz]

Both bars affect steering input.

Both bars affect handling outcomes, but technically no swaybar affects steering inputs (as inputs occur at the steering wheel).

Only a bar that affects front suspension geometry can impact on steering output (as we don't have an all-wheel steer car), and how weight transfer impact on the front wheels ability to induce yaw in the chassis (often referred to as turn-in). The rear bar affects how the rear-end of the car behaves in a turn (which includes under power in a turn) - how weight transfer occurs and how that impacts the line that the rear wants to take).

 

[MerlintheMad]

Both bars affect handling outcomes, but technically no swaybar affects steering inputs (as inputs occur at the steering wheel).

I appreciate the correction. Terminology is important. "Steering input" I take to include how the steering changes during handling, not just the feel (e.g. light, heavy). If oversteer disappears, then the handling allows the steering to be different in that you could now hold a turn without oversteer. Anyway, if I have to explain that to someone because I'm using commonly held terms inaccurately, it won't be helpful.

 

[Manaz]

It's all good mate - we're all learning. In the end, what matters most is that you're happy and confident in how your car drives.