Yea, it's another one! But guaranteed to be more detailed than you could have ever imagined because I'm one of the handful of people who *GASP* installed them myself! Got them from Nick at Khartunerz as they had JUST come back in stock and I've been looking around for them. I'm also a RWD GT, so no electronic suspension control (I hate that kind of stuff anyway, lol). First off, if you do plan to do this yourself, set aside some significant time for the rear swaybar. If I had to do it now, it would take me relatively no time at all. But up until I got it, I was sitting there with a pile of u-joints, various 1/4" or 1/2" socket wrenches and sockets, a breaker bar socket end, ratcheting wrenches, 15 degree and 45 degree box wrenches, you name it. It was all about sitting there until I found the right combination to be able to turn just that 1"-2" to either loosen or tighten for the new bracket. It's entirely doable, but I will warn you that you need some decent finger grip and strength because you'll rarely be afforded the luxury of a full-hand grip on the handle of anything In addition, Eibach used aluminum brackets. As you'll see in the pics below, in order to afford the strength of a steel bracket it has reinforcing "walls" that make it impossible to use a wrench. Thanks, Eibach. Second, and by far the most important point, follows after you see the pics: Front Swaybar on Firm: Rear Swaybar Bracket: Rear swaybar on Firm and Centered Bracket View: That last pic brings me to the most important thing I noticed about these swaybars. The Eibach bracket holes are slotted which allows the bracket and thus swaybar to actually be mounted in slightly different positions which can affect preload of the swaybar and/or difference in handling characters between left and right turns. I took the time to make sure that the bolt (and thus bracket) was perfectly centered in the slots on both swaybars, but there's a full inch of play. That play was enough for me to slide the bar around and see how it changes the angle of the endlink and thus could affect the load angle. Since both are free to slide around, it's possible to have a full inch forward on one side, and a full inch backward on the other which in my fiddling sat the bar crooked across the vehicle rather than straight across. This concerns me greatly: I think Eibach engineers didn't want to take the time to ensure bracket precision and just used general slots to minimize fitment issues figuring most people won't notice the difference anyway. Leading into my final thoughts on them is another point of contention: the factory swaybars actually lock into the brackets, thus resisting rotation of the swaybar. The Eibachs are free to rotate. This has a bearing on suspension bounce when both wheels go up and down together: the factory one actually slightly dampens this motion while the Eibachs do not. So how does it feel you ask? Absolutely great. Not only does it tighten up road feel and handling response, but also firms up the ride over mildly bumpy roads. I almost regret having ordered it as part of a "kit" (I'm putting in sport springs this weekend, so stay tuned on that, too!) as I feel people who just want a slightly firmer ride and better cornering need only order the Eibach swaybars, put them on firm, et voila. I live near a very winding road, and I could easily push another 5 MPH on the tight, blind curves without even feeling like I found the limit, yet. I could even ease into the gas a little, hinting at oversteer but instead letting me accelerate through the S curves. This hinted that it had even more room in it than before to go a little faster! But all isn't perfect. I've noticed an increased "shimmy" behavior when going over speed bumps at a slight angle, or that steep driveways can no longer be "rushed" as the car basically feels like it's getting popped up into the air side-to-side. I now have to go over speed bumps and steep driveways slower than before because the car has become less compliant. This could be mitigated by setting the bars on "soft", but that would probably defeat the purpose and eliminate the firmer ride afforded by the firm setting. Additionally, I went into a driveway that was a bit too steep at my usual speed, and my head hit the B pillar because the car basically got rocked like a cradle I believe that the factory swaybars add a bit of mild but constant dampening due to their locked position, and this explains why there's a sort of "pop up" with the Eibachs when going over anything steep before the dampers can properly dampen the motion. My final notes, however, are that mileage may vary because of those brackets. I also think that this could have a bearing on endlink longevity based on the angle of load. You might think that the angle difference is so small it doesn't matter, but solid swaybars put more load on the endlinks, and this IS a 4000lb car we're talking about... If/when you get a chance to take your wheels off, check the bracket position: if anything, you'll want them even from side to side. I have mine perfectly centered, and that could be affecting my experience compared to others, but I'd check it anyway. I highly doubt a shop or a mechanic being paid to do this will take the time to perfectly center the brackets before tightening them down, and it's the reason I like to do things myself because I'll take just that little extra time to do something "right". It could explain why some have a weird feel after getting the swaybars installed, so check those brackets! EDIT: INSTALLATION TIP - If you are doing this on the ground like I did, have a 3rd jack or use the jack from the trunk. When you unload the suspension, the rear swaybar endlinks may be locked in place due to the tension of the pull. Don't risk damaging them by trying to knock them out: just place the 3rd jack under the arm and gently jack the entire assembly up until the tierod is loose and simply slides right out. EDIT 2: Clarity.