Eibach F/R Swaybar Review!

[MerlintheMad]

Actually, I'm the one that said it was simple and tried to boil it down instead of get nerdy, but seeing as how several others have gotten technical with you, I guess I avoided confusing you for nothing

So many being helpful. Sorry if I missed proper attribution. I have never been comfortable with this venue (net forums).

Please go ahead and offer more information on the dynamics of cornering fast, as it might relate to stiffer sway bars (especially in the rear), if you think of anything to add. I'm all (virtual) ears.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

So many being helpful. Sorry if I missed proper attribution. I have never been comfortable with this venue (net forums).

Please go ahead and offer more information on the dynamics of cornering fast, as it might relate to stiffer sway bars (especially in the rear), if you think of anything to add. I'm all (virtual) ears.

Ya knowww, this sounds bad because I wouldn't want anyone thinking it would actually make them better real world drivers, but... Many sim racing games explain/train these mechanics, and playing them would actually force you to start understanding managing throttle in corners based on the kind of car and drivetrain, lol

I know that back in the day, GT4 (I think, it's been quite awhile) taught me plenty when I spent the money on a $150 steering wheel setup (which was also a lot back in the day!). It was fun for me to learn how to take corners in a safe environment and then actually play around with my real car and exercise the concepts until I was getting it around corners faster and more stable than I ever could before. Thanks, videogames!

Learning how to go-kart also helped a lot, too

 

[Manaz]

But again, if I could just do this for a bunch of times without interruption then I could start to sound coherent about how it goes.

Any chance of getting yourself to a track day? You don't need to go flat out - but it gives you a safe, repeatable environment with little interruption - perfect for learning stuff like this.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Ya knowww, this sounds bad because I wouldn't want anyone thinking it would actually make them better real world drivers, but... Many sim racing games explain/train these mechanics, and playing them would actually force you to start understanding managing throttle in corners based on the kind of car and drivetrain, lol

I know that back in the day, GT4 (I think, it's been quite awhile) taught me plenty when I spent the money on a $150 steering wheel setup (which was also a lot back in the day!). It was fun for me to learn how to take corners in a safe environment and then actually play around with my real car and exercise the concepts until I was getting it around corners faster and more stable than I ever could before. Thanks, videogames!

Learning how to go-kart also helped a lot, too

Be off! Fiend! I do not do video/computer games. But you do tempt me. I hadn't even thought of that angle.

Any chance of getting yourself to a track day? You don't need to go flat out - but it gives you a safe, repeatable environment with little interruption - perfect for learning stuff like this.

Now you're talking. A local track does "Wide Open Wednesdays", several scheduled throughout the year, with lots of price options. I've mentioned before about wanting to do this. But so far I haven't really pursued it. Talking about this makes it more likely, sooner or later.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

Be off! Fiend! I do not do video/computer games. But you do tempt me. I hadn't even thought of that angle.

Now you're talking. A local track does "Wide Open Wednesdays", several scheduled throughout the year, with lots of price options. I've mentioned before about wanting to do this. But so far I haven't really pursued it. Talking about this makes it more likely, sooner or later.

You DO know that F1 drivers all spend hours in a videogame simulator (albeit wayyyy more realistic than anything anyone can have at home, we're talking cockpit and all), right? A well designed videogame mimics the realistic physics and steering wheel feedback so that the concept can set in. Once the physics are second nature, it's time to add in the real world G forces on the body.

 

[Manaz]

You DO know that F1 drivers all spend hours in a videogame simulator (albeit wayyyy more realistic than anything anyone can have at home, we're talking cockpit and all), right? A well designed videogame mimics the realistic physics and steering wheel feedback so that the concept can set in. Once the physics are second nature, it's time to add in the real world G forces on the body.

There was a story a while back where they took a highly rated online car racing driver in a well regarded simulator, and put him into a real car, and he drove VERY well - but yes, it was the g-forces on the body that started to fatigue him.

 

[Ruturaj]

So, if I had bought a 20k corolla, could I have bought a simulator with remaining 30k that will simulate Stinger?

 

[MerlintheMad]

You DO know that F1 drivers all spend hours in a videogame simulator (albeit wayyyy more realistic than anything anyone can have at home, we're talking cockpit and all), right? A well designed videogame mimics the realistic physics and steering wheel feedback so that the concept can set in. Once the physics are second nature, it's time to add in the real world G forces on the body.

Well, if you put me in one of those, I would definitely play. The temptation would be too much for me.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

So, if I had bought a 20k corolla, could I have bought a simulator with remaining 30k that will simulate Stinger?

Oh those simulators are wayyyyyyy more than 30k

If you wanted an arcade-sim, though: Forza Horizon 4 has the Stinger in it

 

[Ruturaj]

Oh those simulators are wayyyyyyy more than 30k

If you wanted an arcade-sim, though: Forza Horizon 4 has the Stinger in it

Bought it 3-4 months ago. Same color.

 

[Jreyes]

Hi Everyone.

There are a few reasons that the brackets are the way they are. We’d LOVE to make custom brackets for every bar but it would not only take longer to produce, but would raise the price of the bar kits.

The slotted brackets.
1. You guys are correct, we do use this specific bracket on a few applications.
2. OEM manufacturing tolerances. It’s usually hard to tell by eye. But every aspect of a car has its own tolerances. It’s extremely common for us to see several of the same car with slightly different ride heights, mounting holes slightly off etc.

Since the OEM end links are a fixed length, you can use them to align the bar before tightening everything. We’d suggest the following.
1. Mount the bushings/brackets but do not tighten all the way.
2. Install the end links. This will make sure each end of the bar is at equal heights prior to tightening. This will help to self-align the center of the bar.
3. Then tighten the bushing/brackets.
By doing this you can make sure that the pre-load at the end link is equal.

Jared at Eibach

 

[MerlintheMad]

Hi Everyone.

There are a few reasons that the brackets are the way they are. We’d LOVE to make custom brackets for every bar but it would not only take longer to produce, but would raise the price of the bar kits.

The slotted brackets.
1. You guys are correct, we do use this specific bracket on a few applications.
2. OEM manufacturing tolerances. It’s usually hard to tell by eye. But every aspect of a car has its own tolerances. It’s extremely common for us to see several of the same car with slightly different ride heights, mounting holes slightly off etc.

Since the OEM end links are a fixed length, you can use them to align the bar before tightening everything. We’d suggest the following.
1. Mount the bushings/brackets but do not tighten all the way.
2. Install the end links. This will make sure each end of the bar is at equal heights prior to tightening. This will help to self-align the center of the bar.
3. Then tighten the bushing/brackets.
By doing this you can make sure that the pre-load at the end link is equal.

Jared at Eibach

Thank you very much!
Have you ever heard of one of your sway bars having brackets that worked loose? Or, similarly, have you ever heard of one coming loose or the bar pushing off center from particularly harsh cornering? I'm thinking of one incident a month or so ago, when a freeway onramp corner that has "palpable" dips in it, messed with my RR tire and produced a quick rough sound so alarming that after I got home I went over my rim and sidewall to see if there was any damage!? And I've wondered since then if I should take my car in and have the sway bar checked out; to assure that it is still centered and that the bar did not slip inside the bushings. Thanks.

 

[Ruturaj]

Thank you very much!
Have you ever heard of one of your sway bars having brackets that worked loose? Or, similarly, have you ever heard of one coming loose or the bar pushing off center from particularly harsh cornering? I'm thinking of one incident a month or so ago, when a freeway onramp corner that has "palpable" dips in it, messed with my RR tire and produced a quick rough sound so alarming that after I got home I went over my rim and sidewall to see if there was any damage!? And I've wondered since then if I should take my car in and have the sway bar checked out; to assure that it is still centered and that the bar did not slip inside the bushings. Thanks.

I think you should be able to get feel of it by laying hand over it.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I think you should be able to get feel of it by laying hand over it.

Please explain what you mean. Laying hand over what? Feel what?

 

[ZyroXZ2]

Hi Everyone.

There are a few reasons that the brackets are the way they are. We’d LOVE to make custom brackets for every bar but it would not only take longer to produce, but would raise the price of the bar kits.

The slotted brackets.
1. You guys are correct, we do use this specific bracket on a few applications.
2. OEM manufacturing tolerances. It’s usually hard to tell by eye. But every aspect of a car has its own tolerances. It’s extremely common for us to see several of the same car with slightly different ride heights, mounting holes slightly off etc.

Since the OEM end links are a fixed length, you can use them to align the bar before tightening everything. We’d suggest the following.
1. Mount the bushings/brackets but do not tighten all the way.
2. Install the end links. This will make sure each end of the bar is at equal heights prior to tightening. This will help to self-align the center of the bar.
3. Then tighten the bushing/brackets.
By doing this you can make sure that the pre-load at the end link is equal.

Jared at Eibach

Erhm, the end links are fixed length, but are free to rotate and pivot. I actually reinstalled it exactly as you described above in the first place because of how the brackets moved. It was relatively close to being centered, but I could still move the bar along the bracket slots and the end link would simply rotate/pivot which meant I could tighten it down in different positions. That's why I figured it would be best to just center both brackets. It's something I think should be added to your installation instructions, to be honest.

 

[Jreyes]

@MerlintheMad
It's not uncommon for a bar to shift. But it typically wont stay off center unless something is bend or damaged. Some cars are more prone than others. if you ever see a bar that has "rings" around where the bushings go, it's to help reduce left/right movement.

If you had any type of "clunking" or "popping noise" this would most likely be the end link that is not tight enough. The bar itself wont make noise. I'd get a wrench on the end links and make sure everything is properly tightened.

At the end of the day, we're all human, so unless a robot installed it, there is always a chance of something not being torqued all the way, coming loose etc.

but no, it's not common and should not be expected.

 

[MerlintheMad]

@MerlintheMad
It's not uncommon for a bar to shift. But it typically wont stay off center unless something is bend or damaged. Some cars are more prone than others. if you ever see a bar that has "rings" around where the bushings go, it's to help reduce left/right movement.

If you had any type of "clunking" or "popping noise" this would most likely be the end link that is not tight enough. The bar itself wont make noise. I'd get a wrench on the end links and make sure everything is properly tightened.

At the end of the day, we're all human, so unless a robot installed it, there is always a chance of something not being torqued all the way, coming loose etc.

but no, it's not common and should not be expected.

Thanks. I haven't had any clunking or popping noises, subsequent to the "incident" of harsh cornering that I described. Everything feels straight and tight and the car is noise free. But if I start to notice anything from "back there", I'll remember what you said and check it pronto.

 

[Jreyes]

Erhm, the end links are fixed length, but are free to rotate and pivot. I actually reinstalled it exactly as you described above in the first place because of how the brackets moved. It was relatively close to being centered, but I could still move the bar along the bracket slots and the end link would simply rotate/pivot which meant I could tighten it down in different positions. That's why I figured it would be best to just center both brackets. It's something I think should be added to your installation instructions, to be honest.

I agree 100% about our instructions. I'll pass this along to our guys and see if we can add a suggested process for installing.

The best install method would be to get everything loosely installed, then put on an alignment rack so everything could be tightened down while actual/even load was applied to the suspension.
In a garage setting, this can be done with 2 floor jacks and a a measuring tape.

Generally you want the bar to be horizontal to the ground, while the car is on the ground.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

I agree 100% about our instructions. I'll pass this along to our guys and see if we can add a suggested process for installing.

The best install method would be to get everything loosely installed, then put on an alignment rack so everything could be tightened down while actual/even load was applied to the suspension.
In a garage setting, this can be done with 2 floor jacks and a a measuring tape.

Generally you want the bar to be horizontal to the ground, while the car is on the ground.

While on my older car, the rear swaybar mounts were externally accessible, these are impossible to reach with the wheels on. The installation instructions are fine except that a note about bracket positioning should be made, something that reads that at the minimum, the brackets should be in even position on both sides (even if they're both all the way forward or all the way back at the maximum allowance of the bracket slots).

 

[Ruturaj]

Please explain what you mean. Laying hand over what? Feel what?

Sorry, I should have been clear, if you want to check if bracket shifted from middle, you can check by putting your hand in slot (if it's that big). My rear sway is getting put on. I would know soon.