ATQ Subframe Collars

[Never thought]

I don’t want to go too far off topic but I was getting a loud squeak from the passenger side turbo. Ended up being a faulty wastegate. Only mods I have are SSR pipes and an air intake. No issues with the warranty.

 

[Never thought]

Intro pricing was $172
Bolts are modified OEM bolts that cost $35 each at KIA.

If you want to home depot your Stinger though. Have at it haha

I should’ve asked this before, but how and why are the bolts modified?

 

[Never thought]

Also, your website says

• 4 Custom Machined OEM Grade 10 Subframe Bolts

There is nothing on your website saying they are modified OEM bolts.

 

[oddball]

Also, your website says

• 4 Custom Machined OEM Grade 10 Subframe Bolts

There is nothing on your website saying they are modified OEM bolts.

?!?!?!? "Custom machined" == modified, OEM == OEM.................

 

[Never thought]

?!?!?!? "Custom machined" == modified, OEM == OEM.................

The description says OEM grade not that they are modified OEM bolts. If they were modified OEM bolts it would be superfluous to say the OEM bolts are OEM grade. Understand?

 

[BeerDog99]

While I think Tomi can answer this better but what I know is that the bolts are custom because they are not the same multi-diameter OEM bolts (the end threaded section is larger in diameter than the bolt end. Also I know Tomi had to custom machine the ends of the bolts when he was fitting the bolts for my car.

I hope that helps.

 

[eflyguy]

Grade :: quality of material. So they are the same quality, but custom made (machined).

 

[STINGER]

Installed the collars yesterday, pretty straight forward. Quality is very good, fitment perfect, the installation video helped a lot to quickly identify the bolt location. All in all, two guys working at a moderate pace with a lift, took 1:45min.

My only comment is the rear/rear collars, there is a plate that you need to remove (minute 11:35 installation video), the plate has two tabs, once you fit the collars there is no place for the tabs to fit in, so you basically have to ram the plate with the gun/torque wrench. The problem is the tabs will damage the collar and they will also bend inwards and if they bend inwards enough they will damage the bolt, you will also be left with a gap between the plate and the collar as there is no way to fully bend the tab inwards and flatten them because they will hit the bolt, the tabs really should be trimmed, maybe leaving 1mm or so of the tab just so that it doesn't turn after its installed.

 

[Never thought]

So I finally got my car back and have put on about 100 miles with the subframe collars/bolts. Is it worth $200? To me, yes. I am glad I did the modification. My only suspension mod is eibach springs. The car now rides even a little smoother than it did before. There seems to be less bangs/thuds over bumps. I also do feel less body roll than before. I think the video is a little over the top but I am very happy with this setup.

There was one highway joint on a curve that always made the Stinger feel like I was going to sideways hop into the next lane even in sport mode. Today I was in comfort, and I hit the joint much faster than I normall would to test the wheel sideways hop. None! I have experienced zero sideways shimmy with these and the Eibach springs. The Eibach springs did reduce the shimmy but they were still there.

I LOVE my setup. It’s much smoother than stock over road imperfections and handles much better. This is how the car should’ve come from the factory. Will a sway bar help handling more than this? That I can’t answer but I’d assume it probably can. But with these you give up no ride quality and you actually improve it a bit. I am perfectly content and have no plans to further modify the suspension.

 

[K8 Stinger Store]

So I finally got my car back and have put on about 100 miles with the subframe collars/bolts. Is it worth $200? To me, yes. I am glad I did the modification. My only suspension mod is eibach springs. The car now rides even a little smoother than it did before. There seems to be less bangs/thuds over bumps. I also do feel less body roll than before. I think the video is a little over the top but I am very happy with this setup.

There was one highway joint on a curve that always made the Stinger feel like I was going to sideways hop into the next lane even in sport mode. Today I was in comfort, and I hit the joint much faster than I normall would to test the wheel sideways hop. None! I have experienced zero sideways shimmy with these and the Eibach springs. The Eibach springs did reduce the shimmy but they were still there.

I LOVE my setup. It’s much smoother than stock over road imperfections and handles much better. This is how the car should’ve come from the factory. Will a sway bar help handling more than this? That I can’t answer but I’d assume it probably can. But with these you give up no ride quality and you actually improve it a bit. I am perfectly content and have no plans to further modify the suspension.

Thank you for this feedback on the product.

I appreciate you ordering from us, and taking the time to provide your personal feedback on the product for others to see.

 

[STINGER]

Ok, update after almost a couple of weeks. Started developing sunroof and driver door creeking noise, on the good side it means the collars are doing the job, on the bad side it means its creeking now. I presume that without the collars there wasn't as much chassis flex.

 

[Never thought]

Ok, update after almost a couple of weeks. Started developing sunroof and driver door creeking noise, on the good side it means the collars are doing the job, on the bad side it means its creeking now. I presume that without the collars there wasn't as much chassis flex.

That doesn’t make much sense to me. The collars keep the car from flexing as much which reduces rattles and creeks. My sunroof was crazy loud creeking and seems to have been less noisy after I had the collars installed.

 

[STINGER]

That doesn’t make much sense to me. The collars keep the car from flexing as much which reduces rattles and creeks. My sunroof was crazy loud creeking and seems to have been less noisy after I had the collars installed.

Actually its the other way round.

Previously, when any movement is happening in the front and rear axles the gape in the collars will allow some movement to avoid unecessary stress on the chassis. Now with the collars in place there is no give for that, so any movement even if small will immediately load it on the chassis.

 

[Never thought]

Actually its the other way round.

Previously, when any movement is happening in the front and rear axles the gape in the collars will allow some movement to avoid unecessary stress on the chassis. Now with the collars in place there is no give for that, so any movement even if small will immediately load it on the chassis.

Gotcha. Interesting you are experiencing that. It’s definitely the opposite for me.

 

[Ty Davis]

Gotcha. Interesting you are experiencing that. It’s definitely the opposite for me.

Squeaks, creaks, and rattles induced by chassis flex depend on not only the amount of twist (front to rear, and to a much lesser extent side to side), but also the bias of that twist as well.

Even though the ATQ collars locate the subframes more precisely, they most surely don’t stiffen the assembly’s the same amount front and rear. With varied amount of slop removed at the front and then at the rear, the torsion exerted on the chassis from the road can vary too. Depending on your car and your particular rattles or squeaks, they may increase or decrease in occurrence. This explains why you and STINGER have two different experiences.

I learned this with my 535i that had a slight popping sound right over the drivers side door when entering driveways. It was there stock. It went away when I added shocks/springs. It came back when I added sways.
It went away when I adjusted the shock damping. I found that the sound was more prominent anytime I had the front of the car set stiffer than the rear.

 

[WildBill]

Installed the collars yesterday, pretty straight forward. Quality is very good, fitment perfect, the installation video helped a lot to quickly identify the bolt location. All in all, two guys working at a moderate pace with a lift, took 1:45min.

My only comment is the rear/rear collars, there is a plate that you need to remove (minute 11:35 installation video), the plate has two tabs, once you fit the collars there is no place for the tabs to fit in, so you basically have to ram the plate with the gun/torque wrench. The problem is the tabs will damage the collar and they will also bend inwards and if they bend inwards enough they will damage the bolt, you will also be left with a gap between the plate and the collar as there is no way to fully bend the tab inwards and flatten them because they will hit the bolt, the tabs really should be trimmed, maybe leaving 1mm or so of the tab just so that it doesn't turn after its installed.

Purchased these from @K8 Stinger Store and received them today. What have other people done about this problem? The tabs on the plate do not seem to be addressed in the instructions.

The instructions seem to indicate that you just drive the plate with the tabs into the newly installed collar and something will bend somehow with your "two ugga duggas" from the impact wrench. Does not seem right to me.

On @STINGER suggests to cut them as have some others on FB, Some on FB mentioned drilling out some clearance holes for the tabs to fit into. Anyone else have any ideas? Am I doing this wrong or overthinking it?

 

[Tomi_ATQ]

You do not remove those plates or cut them.....

 

[STINGER]

Purchased these from @K8 Stinger Store and received them today. What have other people done about this problem? The tabs on the plate do not seem to be addressed in the instructions.
View attachment 24765
The instructions seem to indicate that you just drive the plate with the tabs into the newly installed collar and something will bend somehow with your "two ugga duggas" from the impact wrench. Does not seem right to me.

On @STINGER suggests to cut them as have some others on FB, Some on FB mentioned drilling out some clearance holes for the tabs to fit into. Anyone else have any ideas? Am I doing this wrong or overthinking it?

If your gonna go by the instructions then you just have to use the plate as is and tighten it as much as you can. We tried that, with manual tighting and an impact gun, the plate will always end up being at an angle as one tab would bend more than the other, it just didn't feel right or secure leaving it that way. You also dont want to fully cut the tabs, because the plate might turn and loosen the bolt. I would trim them and leave around 1-2mm from the tab, just enough for it to create and indentation in the collar for it not to turn.

 

[Tomi_ATQ]

OK Ladies and Gents!

DO NOT MODIFY THE DAMN PLATE!
DO NOT REMOVE THE PLATE

INSERT YOUR COLLARS AND USE THE BOLT OR NUT DEPENDING ON WHICH HOLE YOU'RE WORKING ON AND DRIVE THE COLLAR INTO THE HOLE!

I'm not even sure why Hyundai and Kia both added those stupid ears to them. They are pointless and don't do anything.

IF your collars are tough to get in past the ears. Use a punch and a hammer and knock them into the slots a bit more so they aren't in the way. Then insert your collars, and tighten your nut or bolt again depending on the hole.

I'm not sure why people are over complicating a level 1 installation with wild guesses of how things should be or shouldn't be.

The plate, cannot turn and loosen your bolts or nuts. Period! Under any circumstances! Those ears are just a new pointless thing that a lot of the newer kdm cars have.

Also:

Collars cannot cause any rattles or weird noises. Especially with sunroofs.

If you use the search option on Google or on this forum. You will know that the Stinger has issues with rattling sunroofs. The repair is to remove the headliner and loctite the bolts/nuts whichever is holding the sunroof in place and it will go away. It rattles because they get loose from poor assembly standards. You can either fix this yourself or take it to your dealer and ask them to do the fix.

 

[STINGER]

OK Ladies and Gents!

DO NOT MODIFY THE DAMN PLATE!
DO NOT REMOVE THE PLATE

INSERT YOUR COLLARS AND USE THE BOLT OR NUT DEPENDING ON WHICH HOLE YOU'RE WORKING ON AND DRIVE THE COLLAR INTO THE HOLE!

I'm not even sure why Hyundai and Kia both added those stupid ears to them. They are pointless and don't do anything.

IF your collars are tough to get in past the ears. Use a punch and a hammer and knock them into the slots a bit more so they aren't in the way. Then insert your collars, and tighten your nut or bolt again depending on the hole.

I'm not sure why people are over complicating a level 1 installation with wild guesses of how things should be or shouldn't be.

The plate, cannot turn and loosen your bolts or nuts. Period! Under any circumstances! Those ears are just a new pointless thing that a lot of the newer kdm cars have.

Also:

Collars cannot cause any rattles or weird noises. Especially with sunroofs.

If you use the search option on Google or on this forum. You will know that the Stinger has issues with rattling sunroofs. The repair is to remove the headliner and loctite the bolts/nuts whichever is holding the sunroof in place and it will go away. It rattles because they get loose from poor assembly standards. You can either fix this yourself or take it to your dealer and ask them to do the fix.

If I buy a part I expect it to fit without any gaps or leave us to make guesses, especially if the instructions do not clarify that it is normal to expect that. Any mechanic will tell you that it is not normal practice to use an impact gun to force a plate with tabs and no place for them to fit without the instruction covering that part clearly. Expecting all the users/mechanics to figure out that they need to punch a hole in a brand new part and take liability for it since the instructions do not say so is dumb.

Why didn't you make a provision for the tabs in the collar?
Since the tabs are pointless, wouldn't it be easier, cleaner and better for the collars to just trim the tabs rather than punching a hole in the collar?

The reason people are over complicating a level 1 installation is because the instructions is not complete because it doesn't cover this part clearly (two ugga dugga's is not a proper explanation). We are not wildly guessing, we are being cautious. This is a bolt holding the drive terrain to the chassis, last thing I wan't is to drive around worrying about this in the back of my mind because I am not sure if it was done right.