How to avoid blown spark plugs in your tuned Stinger

I want to run my LAP3 that I had in my Optima. I was hoping to just re-gap factory plugs to .026 and leave the LAP3 on the 91 setting. I only run 93 octane fuel. I don't get under boost all that much but don't want to worry about it when I do. Is this is a safe enough way to run a piggyback tune?
 
Probably.....
Maybe.....
Have not seen a single solid statement about the factory plugs other then ‘no issues’
I have seen some pics of broken spark plugs though. And yes, they were not regapped but it is still prove they can fail. Spraying ceramics on your pistons.

If you want a solid advise?
UNLESS you are willing to spend money on better-than-stock parts, and are willing to accept that the engine might fail in a big way, despite all the extra effort and money you spent on improved reliability, stay away from tuning.
I really cannot understand people that spend 40-50.000 on a car and are going to pull the plugs anyway, are willing to take the risk of putting the stock plugs back in to save a fueltank or two of gas on dollars.
 
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I am not trying to save money on new plugs, I'm trying to avoid questions from the dealer if I have issues. If it's safer to get the better plugs with proper gap I can do that. Most of it has to do with how much of a PITA it is to change out the plugs. If I re-gap the factory plugs I don't think my dealer (they don't seem too bright sometimes) would notice. If I have different plugs installed they could easily notice that. I tested out the 89 octane setting on the LAP3 with stock plugs for a quick 20 minute drive and even that little extra boost was impressive.

I was more assuming people were having trouble because of the factory gap, not because of the plugs themselves. Sounds like this is still somewhat of an unknown.
 
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I was more assuming people were having trouble because of the factory gap, not because of the plugs themselves. Sounds like this is still somewhat of an unknown.

No, it's actually been discussed quite a bit and the general consensus is stock plugs re-gapped are fine.
 
Sooo, I'm glad this thread got bumped sort of, because I have a few questions.

On some of my older cars, we would INCREASE the gap to ensure more complete combustion in the chamber. I get that all the spark does is start the chain reaction of that sweet explosion that makes us go, but a stronger/larger initial spark creates a more molecularly thorough initial burst of the combustion process by igniting a slightly larger number of molecules at the cost of higher electrical drain to close the gap. At least, that's how I've always known that to be as I've gapped plugs larger in both my older Grand Prixs, one of which was supercharged with a roots blower, to accommodate increased power (along with a drop in heat range or two) along with upgraded coils/wires/sometimes even a beefed up alternator+rewire due to said electrical draw. Perhaps this has to do with the engine configuration being different than the old-fashioned pushrods...?

That leads me to my overall question. I get that increasing boost increases the pressure in the chamber which effectively increases the necessary voltage to jump the gap. It makes a lot of sense that the factory coils may not possess the necessary electronics to pump up the voltage and compensate, thus we are decreasing the gap to ensure the coils can produce enough voltage to jump the gap. However, outside of these scenarios, wouldn't decreasing the gap effectively decrease combustion efficiency? Or more directly, decrease fuel mileage? This consequently means more blow-by waste, and would increase the need for a catch can, no...?

Sure, I get it: who cares about wasting gas at the cost of a blown coil. But, I'd like to strike a balance: I daily drive my Stinger. I want to get the best fuel mileage I can. A future tune will obviously (probably) more than wipe out this imbalance in favor of gaining fuel mileage, but I'd actually like to ponder whether upgraded coils could be a better overall solution...? I want to have my cake and eat it, too?

Thoughts?
 
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Correct.
Aftermarket boosters/coils like Okada Plasma Coils combined with compatible plugs would be the best solution.

But then it is obvious you are modding.

So, if someone wants to avoid questions from their dealer or, worst case, wants to scam KIA into paying for failures resulting from their modifications they regap the plugs.
 
Correct.
Aftermarket boosters/coils like Okada Plasma Coils combined with compatible plugs would be the best solution.

But then it is obvious you are modding.

So, if someone wants to avoid questions from their dealer or, worst case, wants to scam KIA into paying for failures resulting from their modifications they regap the plugs.

Unlike most, I'd rather maintain my gas mileage... I think I'll keep my eye out for stronger aftermarket coils because gapping my plugs smaller is only a temporary solution in my eyes...
 
On the JB4 front our 3.3L customers have had good luck just regapping the factory plugs to .022" or.024".
 
Made this for our BMW customers but applies to the Stinger too. :)

 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Running hotter plugs gapped at .024, oem's are or I should say were , gapped at .035 one even .038...but they are out and hotter ngk's with a smaller gap are in.....new ecu being installed later this week....then the chip install....dealer did a wire harness recall, didn't say a thing about the cai............waiting......
 
So, question on new spark plugs with a smaller gap from OEM. If I install the HKI plugs with the .024 gap and take out the tune, are there gonna be any issues running on the OEM tune?
 
So, question on new spark plugs with a smaller gap from OEM. If I install the HKI plugs with the .024 gap and take out the tune, are there gonna be any issues running on the OEM tune?
I ran the hotter plugs for awhile with the smaller gap......so I would think it wont be an issue.
 
personally I think the newer iridium plugs fire at any gap with the oem tune. The plugs these days are that good.
 
For those of you that had to remove the intake manifold to change the plugs. Did you need new gaskets? If so, where can I buy one?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Hey guys just finished reading the whole thread....
I've got a 2019 3.3 RWD stinger and I have it booked in for a JB4 and tune next Tuesday......what should my process be with plugs? Can the auto electrician sort out plugs when he installs?
 
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Hey guys just finished reading the whole thread....
I've got a 2019 3.3 RWD stinger and I have it booked in for a JB4 and tune next Tuesday......what should my process be with plugs? Can the auto electrician sort out plugs when he installs?

Is he installing the JB4 for you? If so I think it would be better if you saved your money on that and paid him to regap your plugs.

The JB4 installation is very simple and won't take you more than a few minutes. No tools required.
 
Is he installing the JB4 for you? If so I think it would be better if you saved your money on that and paid him to regap your plugs.

The JB4 installation is very simple and won't take you more than a few minutes. No tools required.
He has quoted upto 4 hours to get it tuned right
 
Sorry it's unichip q4
What is difference in JB4 and unichip q4 with regards to price and performance.

Do I want to recap stock plugs or buy aftermarket ones? My 3.3 stinger has done 800km's.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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