How to avoid blown spark plugs in your tuned Stinger

I just did the spark plug replacement today. I watched the Tork Motorsports video and took some notes so I wouldn't have to watch the video during install. It took me about 2:45 and I work on cars some, oil, brakes, springs, exhaust. The hose spring clamps were a pains since all were upside down and super hard to get to. The install is pretty challenging so would not recommend for total novice. I've been running RaceChip in Race Mode with 92 octane, K&N drop in. My plugs were brown like the picture above not red like Torks plugs. My plugs also had very little torque, maybe 5 ft lbs.
Here are my notes mostly based on the Tork Motorsports video:

Tools: 7mm or flat screw driver, 10mm, 14 MM sockets
Long needle nose pliers, pliers, and magnet
Spark plug socket with extension and swivel / wobbly
clean rag

Remove 4-5 hoses to manifold (under are some coolant lines leave on)
Remove 2-3 connectors to manifold
Loosen both ends of the large hose to throttle body, Screws on clamps are covered with a weird round cap. Tork video removed or loosened a lower hose and blow off valve connector but with the stock intake that was way down and out of site and not needed.
10 MM bolts X 6 on wire harness (2 are deeper down and hard to see) Bolts are different keep track! I removed a few extra wires than the video around the harness to give me more room to move it.
10 MM bolts on intake – 4 on the right
14 MM bolt left side intake bracket
10 MM X 2 nuts front and rear of manifold, (remove foam piece that covers front nut)
10 MM x 2 manifold bolts middle left. I loosened these but left them in the manifold. Plastic sheath helps keep them in and they would be super hard to pull out.
Rotate manifold up and over to the left and cover ports w clean rag. I partially took off the large throttle body hoses and twisted at the hose as to not torque on the manifold too much when rotating out of the way.
Remove coils - slide out locking clip and push button then remove 10 mm bolt, keep track of where coil came from. (or remove coil and replace plug one at a time)
Spark Gap should be .26 to .28 and HKS should already be correct.
Torque plugs to 22-24 ft lbs, coil bolts “tight but not too tight” about 10 ft lbs
Replace manifold, use long plyers or magnet to start bolts (don’t tighten yet)
Large 14 mm bolt on left, (on but not tight yet)
Tighten manifold bolts and nuts from the center out. 12-15 Ft lbs, 14 MM throttle body bracket last.
Connect Hoses 4-5 and 2-3 connectors back on, throttle body hose on
Replace foam piece
2 – 10 MM deep harness bolts use magnet to start, and 4 - 10 MM bolts on upper harness.
 
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It looks cumbersome, but not $175 cumbersome. :)
I actually wanted to pay them to do it but couldn't work it out with my schedule. So I ended up having to do it myself. Would NOT want to do it again anytime soon. Picking up my JB4 tomorrow at the post office and will report back.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yeah the first 30-40 mins i didn't make much progress. If i knew the large hose clamps had caps on them that would have saved me 10 mins alone. I few other hoses are a bear getting to the spring clamps. The wiring harness to the right is also tricky as its hard to get out of the way taking the manifold off and just as hard to get out of the way putting the manifold back on.
 
I agree. I'll do it again myself at 45K miles. Also good to wear some gloves for the hose removal part to save your hands.
 
I just did the spark plug replacement today. I watched the Tork Motorsports video and took some notes so I wouldn't have to watch the video during install. It took me about 2:45 and I work on cars some, oil, brakes, springs, exhaust. The hose spring clamps were a pains since all were upside down and super hard to get to. The install is pretty challenging so would not recommend for total novice. I've been running RaceChip in Race Mode with 92 octane, K&N drop in. My plugs were brown like the picture above not red like Torks plugs. My plugs also had very little torque, maybe 5 ft lbs.
Here are my notes mostly based on the Tork Motorsports video:

Tools: 7mm or flat screw driver, 10mm, 14 MM sockets
Long needle nose pliers, pliers, and magnet
Spark plug socket with extension and swivel / wobbly
clean rag

Remove 4-5 hoses to manifold (under are some coolant lines leave on)
Remove 2-3 connectors to manifold
Loosen both ends of the large hose to throttle body, Screws on clamps are covered with a weird round cap. Tork video removed or loosened a lower hose and blow off valve connector but with the stock intake that was way down and out of site and not needed.
10 MM bolts X 6 on wire harness (2 are deeper down and hard to see) Bolts are different keep track! I removed a few extra wires than the video around the harness to give me more room to move it.
10 MM bolts on intake – 4 on the right
14 MM bolt left side intake bracket
10 MM X 2 nuts front and rear of manifold, (remove foam piece that covers front nut)
10 MM x 2 manifold bolts middle left. I loosened these but left them in the manifold. Plastic sheath helps keep them in and they would be super hard to pull out.
Rotate manifold up and over to the left and cover ports w clean rag. I partially took off the large throttle body hoses and twisted at the hose as to not torque on the manifold too much when rotating out of the way.
Remove coils - slide out locking clip and push button then remove 10 mm bolt, keep track of where coil came from. (or remove coil and replace plug one at a time)
Spark Gap should be .26 to .28 and HKS should already be correct.
Torque plugs to 22-24 ft lbs, coil bolts “tight but not too tight” about 10 ft lbs
Replace manifold, use long plyers or magnet to start bolts (don’t tighten yet)
Large 14 mm bolt on left, (on but not tight yet)
Tighten manifold bolts and nuts from the center out. 12-15 Ft lbs, 14 MM throttle body bracket last.
Connect Hoses 4-5 and 2-3 connectors back on, throttle body hose on
Replace foam piece
2 – 10 MM deep harness bolts use magnet to start, and 4 - 10 MM bolts on upper harness.
EXCELLENT!

I'm not sure I'll be playing with my spark plugs. But if I do, I've now cut & pasted these instructions and saved them, labeling them "TonkaBob's Spark Plug Replacement Procedure".

Awesome job & thanks!
 
I haven't had a CEL yet but I was wondering if anyone could describe to me what a misfire or blown plug would feel or sound like in the car?
 
I haven't had a CEL yet but I was wondering if anyone could describe to me what a misfire or blown plug would feel or sound like in the car?

Well, when I accelerate, the car hesitates, and you feel it "knock" back against you.. almost feel a slight "kick" head back up the gas pedal through your foot. Seems to happen most often between 2-3k RPMs when not on full throttle (so the car is accelerating and boosting without down shifting)

As far as sound, RPMs will stop increasing and stay static or even lower with every "knock" so I guess you could say it might sound like very small revs.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Well, when I accelerate, the car hesitates, and you feel it "knock" back against you.. almost feel a slight "kick" head back up the gas pedal through your foot. Seems to happen most often between 2-3k RPMs when not on full throttle (so the car is accelerating and boosting without down shifting)

As far as sound, RPMs will stop increasing and stay static or even lower with every "knock" so I guess you could say it might sound like very small revs.
Thanks for the info. Seems like it's pretty obvious when something like that happens.
Does the CEL also come on during the misfire or after?
 
Thanks for the info. Seems like it's pretty obvious when something like that happens.
Does the CEL also come on during the misfire or after?

CEL does NOT always come on. It may or may not. For me it's come up sometimes, I had to clear it as the car went in "limp" mode, now it still does it but the CEL hasn't come back yet.

Still have to take it to the dealer so I'm trying to minimize my driving but I'm leaving the country in 2 days so I'll have to wait till I'm back
 
I haven't had a CEL yet but I was wondering if anyone could describe to me what a misfire or blown plug would feel or sound like in the car?

I don’t recall hearing anything. I’ve had two separate cylinder misfires. Both occurred under heavy boost at higher (45-85mph) speed within a second of increases throttle. Since the CEL does not always flash, initially I thought it was a traction issue - that the rear wheels had broken loose and spinning (I have RWD). It felt similar to the sensations that occurred in a BMW when the DSC would kick in (and flash). The car jerks and had no power. Do it enough and that flashing CEL will stay lit.
 
As someone said above, vast majority of the makes no sense to me, but wish it did.

If I understand the thread correctly, even if I don't plan on moding my car with the chips, folks would still recommend replacing the plugs with better plugs and reduced gap... correct? Doing this will allow even a non-modded car to see some benefit.. correct? what kind of benefit would I see? (I do "Punch it" in my car every so often)
 
On my FI 350Z at 15psi i have Okada Plasma Coils to boost the spark. Love them, never had any blowouts or misfires despite the rich mixture.
The do not have them for the Stinger yet. Anyone know about alternate options?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Just bought some stock plugs and regapped them all to .26 - then installed.

These are what came out of the car. I ran maybe 100 miles on race mode, about the same in sport, and maybe 1000 miles in efficiency. Since all of this spark plug stuff started happening with RaceChip, I have been running in stock mode... maybe another 2k miles after the above.

I'm not a mechanic, but they look to be in decent shape. They were all gapped between .32 and .35 when I pulled them.

I have run nothing but 93 octane fuel.

The car runs more smoothly now, but I wouldn't say that there's an immense difference between the way it runs now in any mode and the way that it ran before. Perhaps a little more responsive at lower rpm under load.

Changing those plugs was a PITA.
 

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PITA.......so why didn’t you install the recommended ones??
 
Because back when I ordered them, RaceChip wasn’t recommending aftermarket plugs. I had also read that colder plugs would foul a little sooner. In the end, I couldn’t justify the cost if they weren’t required.

Since then, of course, the recommendation has changed, but I didn’t feel like returning what I already had or taking a bath by ordering even more plugs.

So far, I haven’t heard of anyone with re-gapped plugs having problems, so I’m satisfied for now.
 
You're right. I re-gapped mine to .025 and ran my JB4 for just over 2k miles on map 2 (4 psi over stock) and never had an issue. You should be fine.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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