Burger Tuning JB4 for Kia Stinger!

[Terry@BMS]

Factory 19s here, fastest I've gotten up to is around 150mph at the track. Fast enough for me in the Stinger lol.

 

[mitchyboy]

His issue is plugs, forgot I had the same issue during development when I smoked a stock plug. For some reason the coil kicks back a current surge when ceramic cracks at higher boost levels.

Keep it on map0 (stock) or map4 (less than stock) until Denso plugs are in.

Ok so got new Denso plugs gapped to .022 and installed. Did a few test runs on Map0, Map1 & Map2 - all went well with no issues. Logging worked (although started recording too late each time - I need to manually start it, or get it to start at a lower throttle %) and gauges didn't freeze anymore! So all signs are positive. Hit just over 17psi boost on the short Map2 run. Need to find a better road to do some proper logging coz struggling for traction now!

 

[Terry@BMS]

Woot!

 

[brancky3]

Here is a quick WMI install guide: http://www.n54tech.com/flash_files/stinger_wmi_install.pdf

Interesting, I thought the lines would run under the car instead of inside the cabin. Thanks for the guide! My wallet isn't looking forward to spring!

 

[Blitz]

Sigh. Spark plugs weren't quite as bad as I thought they would be.

Managed to drop one of the positaps into the abyss. Fuel wires are just hooked up chilling atm but I can't use them.

Trying to connect scans, and says no JB4 connect kits detected.

Gonna have to buy some extra positaps and go at the fuel wires again when they ship.

No clue why the JB4 isn't sensing the bluetooth kit. I swear I hooked everything up correctly.

 

[Blitz]

Is it fine for the fuel wires to be connected to the JB4 just sitting in the car?

Also, is there any way to tell the JB4 is working without connecting to it? Is there any way to tell the bluetooth dongle has power?

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Trying to connect scans, and says no JB4 connect kits detected...

No clue why the JB4 isn't sensing the bluetooth kit. I swear I hooked everything up correctly.

My buddy had same issue initially but didn’t have his Bluetooth enabled on his phone. Make sure that’s on, the engine is on and OBDII is connected.

Hope that helps otherwise I’m sure Terry can resolve the issue quickly.

Also, is there any way to tell the JB4 is working without connecting to it? Is there any way to tell the bluetooth dongle has power?

It will default to map1 without anything else connected so you should still be able to easily feel the extra 73wtq and at least know it’s working. Do a launch control run and see if you spin the tires. That should be an easy way to prove it’s working just fine.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Is it fine for the fuel wires to be connected to the JB4 just sitting in the car?

Also, is there any way to tell the JB4 is working without connecting to it? Is there any way to tell the bluetooth dongle has power?

Yes no problem, just connect them when you can.

On the BT if the red power wire wasn't making a solid connection that could prevent connection from the app. Beyond that Donnie handles app/JB4 mobile support so you can reach out to him if you need addl assistance: JB4 Mobile for Apple and Android Smart Phone Support - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion

 

[Terry@BMS]

Interesting, I thought the lines would run under the car instead of inside the cabin. Thanks for the guide! My wallet isn't looking forward to spring!

I prefer routing them inside under the plastic panels, install is super easy that way, and stealthy.

 

[Blitz]

Got it. Literally just redid the positab for bluetooth power the exact same way and everything came up.

Got 2 codes. P0107 and P0305. One was from me not securing the last coil so I figured that out quickly by checking connections. The other was odd so I replugged in all of the JB4/Engine connections. Wiped the codes. Started her up.

0 codes. Idling fine.

Took it for a quick drive to make sure it wouldn't throw anything again. Got on it a tad but had tools and the such in the back so couldn't really go HAM. Going to go out later for a MAP1 test drive and logging.

 

[Terry@BMS]

OK sounds good! I like easy fixes.

 

[Terry@BMS]

I’m trying to figure out why my logs (JB4) are lean until ~25ish MPH and then throttle is ~90-100 % open. Seems like the car would still like ~13 or less AFR’s from 0-25ish.

FYI you can log map0, the stock tuning, and you'll find similar behavior. It's normal factory lean spool mode mapping.

With flash mapping you can disable the factory lean spool mode to make the logs prettier. We do in some of our back end flash maps for other platforms but that specific change is primarily for marketing purposes. Makes the logs prettier. But there isn't a real performance benefit one way or the other. If anything leaving lean spool mode enabled is preferred at the track IMHO.

On AFR in general with BMW direct injection motors on E85 we run them as lean as 14.3:1 at peak torque, 13.5:1 at peak HP, up to 700whp. These are not your dad's air/fuel targets. Direct injection changed everything.

 

[TwinSnails]

So essentially we should be more concerned with deciphering the timing and watching for the abrupt drops?

One of my tuners actually used to reduce knock sensitivity which was not cool.

 

[Terry@BMS]

So essentially we should be more concerned with deciphering the timing and watching for the abrupt drops?

One of my tuners actually used to reduce knock sensitivity which was not cool.

Yes that's the risk with flash tuning, unless you're doing it yourself, or getting it from a reputable company, you never know what's going on in there. The risks are highest in the early days before larger flash companies who have something to lose like Cobb & APR move in.

If you're concerned with knock then you'll want to pay most attention to the areas where knock is most likely. High boost, high load, under long sustained runs, especially during warmer weather. e.g. in 4th and 5th gear doing full throttle runs. Because that is where you'll see issues crop up first. Overall I've found the platform very knock resistant, much more than I expected. They clearly under timed it from the factory (probably to allow for really low grade fuel to be used) which is working to our advantage now on the piggyback side.

 

[P4RTYH4RTY]

@Terry@BMS

I was looking at the dyno charts on your site, and need some clarification.

Map 2 w/ Fuel Control: 391hp / 469tq
Map 2 w/ Intake: 416hp / 514tq

How does the Intake give gains of 25hp / 45tq?

 

[Terry@BMS]

Very carefully?

Turns out the stock intake is quite a restriction at higher boost levels.

 

[P4RTYH4RTY]

Very carefully?

Turns out the stock intake is quite a restriction at higher boost levels.

I guess so!

Just seemed too high for typical Intake gains.

 

[Terry@BMS]

You should see the gains on our BMW N54 dual cone intake.

It just depends on the platform. Some platforms minimal gains, others huge gains.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

You should see the gains on our BMW N54 dual cone intake.

It just depends on the platform. Some platforms minimal gains, others huge gains.

Wow 32 WHP at just over 6500 RPM! Peak Gain of almost 20HP is good. I think thats on par with most. What design did you go with for intake piping?

 

[Terry@BMS]

That was before we did the inlets which opened up a lot more, on the N54 engine inlets + intake can add as much as 75whp at redline. But as I said every platform is unique. We make intakes for some cars that struggle to add 5hp. It just turns out the Stinger intake presents a moderate restriction.