Lets talk tuning, piggy back vs ECU flash.

why are so many exhaust systems and intake systems being sold? Still voids your warranty :)

Ehhh....lol what?

Aftermarket catback can void your warranty on catback related issues. Aftermarket intake can void your warranty on intake related issues.

ECU tune can void your warranty on ANY ISSUE WITH THE TWO MOST EXPENSIVE PARTS OF THE CAR.

Apples and oranges.


Regardless, I still think the best current option would be an ECU tune on a separate ECU. It would probably even be easier to Uninstaller than a piggyback .But the cost is prohibitive for many customers, no matter how much money you have invested in it.
 
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I feel that you missed the most important difference.

Currently the piggy backs are having to run much more boost, ignition timing and hidding those signals from the ECU and kicking the car out of any protection limits, and still running slower times at the track and with Dragy.

Its not so much about adoption, as it is educating the community.

I agree with educating. I am scheduled to come into your shop on the 8th, but it was not first on my list when considering options in the beginning.

I am telling you what went through my head as I researched. I feel like alot of your marketing is towards BALLS OUT. If more was geared toward the safety/driveability/ease of installation and use of your lesser options (Stage 0/1) I think it would help alot. I have known how fast your tune is since arriving on the forum. Gurgles? Pops? MPG? Actual user reviews of driveability? Ease of swapping things back to stock? Those were the first questions I asked your team in messages and in your shop.

I certainly have some suggestions for things that would have made the decision much easier for me if you're willing to hear them out.

I am also planning on covering some of this in the review I do after getting the stage 1.

EDIT: HOLY SHIT USING THE WORD MILEAGE FLAGS YOUR POST AS ADDING A LINK.
 
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Ehhh....lol what?

Aftermarket catback can void your warranty on catback related issues. Aftermarket intake can void your warranty on intake related issues.

ECU tune can void your warranty on ANY ISSUE WITH THE TWO MOST EXPENSIVE PARTS OF THE CAR.

Apples and oranges.


Regardless, I still think the best current option would be an ECU tune on a separate ECU. It would probably even be easier to Uninstaller than a piggyback .But the cost is prohibitive for many customers, no matter how much money you have invested in it.

I have watch, right in front of me at the dealer, a warranty get voided for:

Aftermarket GPS
Sub box
Non stock size tires
+1 inch larger wheels
Rubber build up from burn outs
Facebook posts (drag racing)stick car
IG posts (drag racing) stock car
Autocross applucation in the glove box
Exhaust
Intakes
Aftermarket stereos
Nuts worn that "look like" they have been removed
Non oem rotors
And I can continue if need be.

I worked in the dealers for 18 years, worked as a professional expert for both the manufactures and individuals on court cases that were about warranty denial.

Then, I have watch fully preped race cars, less cage get parts warrantied on them.

So, yea... intake an exhaust systems have gotten full powertrain warranty's voided.

Its not that black and white because, the dealer has to prove the ECU tune caused the failure, and have evidence of such accusation. Just having a "tune" doesn't void the warranty, the proof they provide voids the warranty.

I broke the transmission case in one of my SRT4's. It was making 500 + WHP. I called the dealer, asked them to look at it and see if this is a common failure. I was willing to pay the $100 for them to look at it. They called the regional rep, he came out and looked at it, covered. Reason it was covered, they had never seen this faikure and the engineers wanted it back to figure out if it was a flaw or abuse.

The reason an ECU tune gets a bad rep is because of posts like this and the dealers ignorance of such a modification.
 
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I agree with educating. I am scheduled to come into your shop on the 8th, but it was not first on my list when considering options in the beginning.

I am telling you what went through my head as I researched. I feel like alot of your marketing is towards BALLS OUT. If more was geared toward the safety/driveability/ease of installation and use of your lesser options (Stage 0/1) I think it would help alot. I have known how fast your tune is since arriving on the forum. Gurgles? Pops? MPG? Actual user reviews of driveability? Ease of swapping things back to stock? Those were the first questions I asked your team in messages and in your shop.

I certainly have some suggestions for things that would have made the decision much easier for me if you're willing to hear them out.

I am also planning on covering some of this in the review I do after getting the stage 1.

EDIT: HOLY SHIT USING THE WORD MILEAGE FLAGS YOUR POST AS ADDING A LINK.
Willing to hear any recommendations.

We will have better desriptions of our tune levels soon.

As far as the balls out comment, lol.

What is one mans balls out is another mans tighty whittey :)

I drive (well not right now) 500 and 600 horsepower cars daily. Speed is broken for me, I need sub 3 second 0 to 60 times to get me aroused :) So if I come off as balls out with my tuning, I am sorry for giving that impression. We have barely scratched the surface of what we are doing with the tune. When we start getting aggressive, people will know based on the results we start posting.
 
Willing to hear any recommendations.

We will have better desriptions of our tune levels soon.

As far as the balls out comment, lol.

What is one mans balls out is another mans tighty whittey :)

I drive (well not right now) 500 and 600 horsepower cars daily. Speed is broken for me, I need sub 3 second 0 to 60 times to get me aroused :) So if I come off as balls out with my tuning, I am sorry for giving that impression. We have barely scratched the surface of what we are doing with the tune. When we start getting aggressive, people will know based on the results we start posting.

Now I gotta go and add your entire website to my cart to protect my manhood. FML.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I have watch, right in front of me at the dealer, a warranty get voided for:

Aftermarket GPS
Sub box
Non stock size tires
+1 inch larger wheels
Rubber build up from burn outs
Facebook posts (drag racing)stick car
IG posts (drag racing) stock car
Autocross applucation in the glove box
Exhaust
Intakes
Aftermarket stereos
Nuts worn that "look like" they have been removed
Non oem rotors
And I can continue if need be.

I worked in the dealers for 18 years, worked as a professional expert for both the manufactures and individuals on court cases that were about warranty denial.

Then, I have watch fully preped race cars, less cage get parts warrantied on them.

So, yea... intake an exhaust systems have gotten full powertrain warranty's voided.

Its not that black and white because, the dealer has to prove the ECU tune caused the failure, and have evidence of such accusation. Just having a "tune" doesn't void the warranty, the proof they provide voids the warranty.

I broke the transmission case in one of my SRT4's. It was making 500 + WHP. I called the dealer, asked them to look at it and see if this is a common failure. I was willing to pay the $100 for them to look at it. They called the regional rep, he came out and looked at it, covered. Reason it was covered, they had never seen this faikure and the engineers wanted it back to figure out if it was a flaw or abuse.

The reason an ECU tune gets a bad rep is because of posts like this and the dealers ignorance of such a modification.


Wait this post confused me.

First exhaust will void your warranty. Then everything you do will void your warranty. But then an ECU tune won’t because they have to prove it caused the failure?
 
Wait this post confused me.

First exhaust will void your warranty. Then everything you do will void your warranty. But then an ECU tune won’t because they have to prove it caused the failure?

I have said what I have seen void a warranty, and then what has not voided a warranty. An exhaust is a visible mod, a tune, not so visible.

I have had dealers tell me the car was tuned in court, I than asked what values were changed in the tune... they look at me confused.

A visible mod is easy to confirm and use as leverage to void a warranty, anything that is speculation, kind of hard to say it voided your warranty.
 
I have watch, right in front of me at the dealer, a warranty get voided for:

Aftermarket GPS
Sub box
Non stock size tires
+1 inch larger wheels
Rubber build up from burn outs
Facebook posts (drag racing)stick car
IG posts (drag racing) stock car
Autocross applucation in the glove box
Exhaust
Intakes
Aftermarket stereos
Nuts worn that "look like" they have been removed
Non oem rotors
And I can continue if need be.

I worked in the dealers for 18 years, worked as a professional expert for both the manufactures and individuals on court cases that were about warranty denial.

Then, I have watch fully preped race cars, less cage get parts warrantied on them.

So, yea... intake an exhaust systems have gotten full powertrain warranty's voided.

Its not that black and white because, the dealer has to prove the ECU tune caused the failure, and have evidence of such accusation. Just having a "tune" doesn't void the warranty, the proof they provide voids the warranty.

I broke the transmission case in one of my SRT4's. It was making 500 + WHP. I called the dealer, asked them to look at it and see if this is a common failure. I was willing to pay the $100 for them to look at it. They called the regional rep, he came out and looked at it, covered. Reason it was covered, they had never seen this faikure and the engineers wanted it back to figure out if it was a flaw or abuse.

The reason an ECU tune gets a bad rep is because of posts like this and the dealers ignorance of such a modification.

I'm sorry man, I know this isn't really something you want to focus on with this thread, but I'm calling bullshit on someone having their ENTIRE powertrain warranty written off because of intake/exhaust modifications.

If that actually happened I'd bet there's WAY more to the story than "Bubba had a catback, engine blew, Dodge voided his warranty." No way.

That list at the beginning of your post...are you saying those mods also cause someone to completely lose their warranty? Or they lost the warranty on parts associated with that particular modification? If you're talking about the former I'm calling bullshit again. How stupid does someone have to be to let a company void their powertrain warranty after installation of aftermarket GPS?!

If you're talking about the latter I agree, in part because I had it happen to me (33" tires (2" bigger than stock) transmission work refused under warranty). I didn't even try to fight them because I knew that my modification could possibly have caused my problem.

It's well known that warranties on parts associated with a failure caused by a non-OEM mod can be voided. That's why ECU tunes are potentially so dangerous. Because they're easy to spot and dealers can blame a whole shit ton of really expensive problems on them.

The thought that intake/catback modifications are as big a gamble as an ECU tune is just silly, and you must know that.
 
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I'm sorry man, I know this isn't really something you want to focus on with this thread, but I'm calling bullshit on someone having their ENTIRE powertrain warranty written off because of intake/exhaust modifications.

If that actually happened I'd bet there's WAY more to the story than "Bubba had a catback, engine blew, Dodge voided his warranty." No way.

That list at the beginning of your post...are you saying those mods also cause someone to completely lose their warranty? Or they lost the warranty on parts associated with that particular modification? If you're talking about the former I'm calling bullshit again. How stupid does someone have to be to let a company void their powertrain warranty after installation of aftermarket GPS?!

If you're talking about the latter I agree, in part because I had it happen to me (33" tires (2" bigger than stock) transmission work refused under warranty). I didn't even try to fight them because I knew that my modification could possibly have caused my problem.

It's well known that warranties on parts associated with a failure caused by a non-OEM mod can be voided. That's why ECU tunes are potentially so dangerous. Because they're easy to spot and dealers can blame a whole shit ton of really expensive problems on them.

The thought that intake/catback modifications are as big a gamble as an ECU tune is just silly, and you must know that.

Google search, powertrain warranty voided and you will read some horrible stories.

Full powertrain warrantys have been voided for the single items I posted. I had a friend ask me to help him in a court case regarding his transmission being denied warranty. Are you ready for this.... a Optima dry cell battery vs the OEM or lead acid battery that the dealer claims should have been in there. You are just a Google search away from hours of entertaining reasons powertrain warranties and repairs are denied by the dealers. Around 80% of the denied claims and voided powertrain warranties are reveresed by corporate.

Can you explain to me how they are easy to spot (ECU tunes)? You are the first person I have ever heard say that.

I know that an intake with a MAF sensor sized imporperly would be more of a concern than a tune. I know that full headers and catless midpipes on a Hellcat cause some massive issues with the engine.

So just because you think an intake and exhaust couldn't be a bad thing, doesn't mean that they are safe to run. I have been doing automotive for over 30 years professionally, hopefully you have similar experience?
 
John, I commend you for posting a very complete set of facts with respect to ECU editing capabilities that are not available to piggy back solution users, without bashing Piggy backs of one provider or in general. That's how you should approach identifying the benefits of your product over the competing piggy back offerings. You've provided insight for some who don;t know that on a new platform like this, where definitions files are not available, it takes alot of sweat equity to even identify the table limits and data sets, let alone understand what those table functions are. The work you are doing is important and lays the ground work to solutions that will make a big difference for this platform.

I fully agree with all your points and when a more convenient way of delivering ECU calibration becomes available ( IE OBD flash tuning) you will have a lot of customers.

However, the fact of the matter is piggy backs offer a compelling product with convenience, ease of use, and flexibility and customization, while attaining 95%</= of current performance of full ECU calibration at a reasonable cost. Despite alot of what you've claimed in some of your more "sky is falling" posts, they are a safe and valid way of increasing the performance of a vehicle to a limit. Beyond that limit a full ECU calibration is the safer, more complete way to attain goals. A combination of both tools for people like me is the ultimate path due to having a desire for the benefits of both.

Yes a piggy back is a "signal modifier" and not a "true ECU Calibration: but it no less a valid way of increasing performance. Consider this:

ECU Re calibration allows you to alter the control strategies directly ( in most cases ) to achieve performance objectives. However, without custom OS you are still constrained to the limits of the knowledge those strategies. In effect boxed in until a ton of work is done, or the damos gods deliver.

A piggy back ( I mean a fully integrated one like a JB4) uses base knowledge of the boost, fueling and timing strategies employed by a modern Torque Request based ECU, and leverages signal modification to use the ECU OS, and calibration features against itself. By doing this in a thoughtful and clever way, you can suppress control strategies in the OS to achieve desired outcomes. Yes you can;t just add boost and pray it works. It requires experience and testing and dedication to the platform, and that's what you get with a JB4 for example. Over a decade of experience and a proven platform across many manufactures, leveraging different base ECU platforms, but same generic approach to boost, fueling and timing.

To my mind, the product complete to a point, but are ultimately complimentary. When ECU tunes match the convenience of a piggy back, and provide a clear advantage in performance, the consumer playing field will be leveled. On most other platforms a combination of both has proven reliable and most potent. I wish more vendors in this community would take competition as a friendly challenge to provide a more compelling product, and not just shit on the other one. Would love to hear, "nice results" or "You are faster, nice work...back to the drawing board i guess" instead of you "don't know what you are doing" and aggressively pursuing perceived ( and false in some cases) deficiencies , and belittling the customers who have gone a different way.

We should all win from competition.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
On the Chevrolet Silverado they check the CVN counters for a tune. Long known that GM had the technology in place and could definitely see if the counters did not line-up with the flashes they performed.

Ford, however, could not see the SCT on my EcoBoost. What they could see is peak boost history above stock levels... they assumed it was from the AFE Intake and warned me - through corporate - remove the intake or future warranty claims will be denied.

Subaru WRX - could have cared less, they figured you were going to mess with it. Normally issued a one time repair as good faith, amazing company to deal with.

Just personal findings on my own. I don’t know anything about Hyundai/Kia’s ability to see a tune.
 
John, I commend you for posting a very complete set of facts with respect to ECU editing capabilities that are not available to piggy back solution users, without bashing Piggy backs of one provider or in general. That's how you should approach identifying the benefits of your product over the competing piggy back offerings. You've provided insight for some who don;t know that on a new platform like this, where definitions files are not available, it takes alot of sweat equity to even identify the table limits and data sets, let alone understand what those table functions are. The work you are doing is important and lays the ground work to solutions that will make a big difference for this platform.

I fully agree with all your points and when a more convenient way of delivering ECU calibration becomes available ( IE OBD flash tuning) you will have a lot of customers.

However, the fact of the matter is piggy backs offer a compelling product with convenience, ease of use, and flexibility and customization, while attaining 95%</= of current performance of full ECU calibration at a reasonable cost. Despite alot of what you've claimed in some of your more "sky is falling" posts, they are a safe and valid way of increasing the performance of a vehicle to a limit. Beyond that limit a full ECU calibration is the safer, more complete way to attain goals. A combination of both tools for people like me is the ultimate path due to having a desire for the benefits of both.

Yes a piggy back is a "signal modifier" and not a "true ECU Calibration: but it no less a valid way of increasing performance. Consider this:

ECU Re calibration allows you to alter the control strategies directly ( in most cases ) to achieve performance objectives. However, without custom OS you are still constrained to the limits of the knowledge those strategies. In effect boxed in until a ton of work is done, or the damos gods deliver.

A piggy back ( I mean a fully integrated one like a JB4) uses base knowledge of the boost, fueling and timing strategies employed by a modern Torque Request based ECU, and leverages signal modification to use the ECU OS, and calibration features against itself. By doing this in a thoughtful and clever way, you can suppress control strategies in the OS to achieve desired outcomes. Yes you can;t just add boost and pray it works. It requires experience and testing and dedication to the platform, and that's what you get with a JB4 for example. Over a decade of experience and a proven platform across many manufactures, leveraging different base ECU platforms, but same generic approach to boost, fueling and timing.

To my mind, the product complete to a point, but are ultimately complimentary. When ECU tunes match the convenience of a piggy back, and provide a clear advantage in performance, the consumer playing field will be leveled. On most other platforms a combination of both has proven reliable and most potent. I wish more vendors in this community would take competition as a friendly challenge to provide a more compelling product, and not just shit on the other one. Would love to hear, "nice results" or "You are faster, nice work...back to the drawing board i guess" instead of you "don't know what you are doing" and aggressively pursuing perceived ( and false in some cases) deficiencies , and belittling the customers who have gone a different way.

We should all win from competition.
First, thank you for the kind comments.

Benefits of both... I am conflicted with this because optimization of one tune, just to use a signal modifier to change the values, meh... I stuggle with that. I know it works in other platforms, hopefully it will work in this one :)
In relation to increasing power, well... we have already seen the limitations in some resent logs that were posted that had massive ignition pull and throttle close. Not mentioning any names, but... there will be no way to get around this, other than a tune.

Big problem with the assumption that the a decade of other platforms will be the same as the Stinger. You are making this really difficult to explain without mentioning any names, lol.

I think the results that are being generated by the piggy back controllers is impressive, I am actually surprised with them.

My problem is this, I know how the ECU works, and I am very confident in the structure and as you said OS. Members in the car community, have no idea, and by no idea, I mean NO IDEA. I live in Seattle, where I can throw a rock and hit one of the big 3 software developers in the world. Not a single one of them can help me, zero help from people I have known for decades that write code for a living.

My point being... if I say look the datalog posted by Tonka Bob, and then look at the other ones (no names). Even the most basic of chart reading people can see the obvious differences between them. The smoothness transition areas, fueling, ignition, shift points, RPM curve ect. There simply is not a comparison to be had. A tune wins.

Now, when I start with my sky is falling mentality, that is because I can see whats happening inside the ECU, I know just how much is falling from the sky, which is a feat in and of itself. If you have followed my YT channel, you will see we ran the car with a piggy back for a while, a very short while. I never posted the reasons why we took it off the car, and if asked privatly or publicly why, I will refuse. I will refuse because somewhere, there is someone who will dissagree, and then start making up pathetic claims about us blowing up our engine or transmission in the shop car, lol. .

I could post all currnet maps showing correction and how the box works around these correction, problem being, maybe 1% would understand. Its the remaining 99% that will buy a piggy back, because its easy to remove. Its the 99% that will look at the logs, look at the dyno results and go, "COOL" not knowing what they are giving the thumbs up too.

That is why I made this thread, to try and help those understand in a more basic down to earth format.

Everyone does win from the competition. Look at the resent results posted by the piggy back companies, and look at what the ECU tuners have achieved. I am going on month 5 with my current record, on my origianl Stage 1 tune. I am waiting for someone, anyone to beat that record so I can start running my car again :)
 
Even the most basic of chart reading people can see the obvious differences between them. The smoothness transition areas, fueling, ignition, shift points, RPM curve ect. There simply is not a comparison to be had. A tune wins.

Can you share an "anonymous" company chart with yours and explain the differences? That would fit great with this thread. Plus whenever I see those posts it just looks like silly string.

If you're uncomfortable comparing yours vs "X" maybe someone else that actually reads that Matrix can post up the differences here?
 
How much timing can/will the ECU pull or add? As in what is that threshold?

I’ve read 3* but that’s not great.
 
Can you share an "anonymous" company chart with yours and explain the differences? That would fit great with this thread. Plus whenever I see those posts it just looks like silly string.

If you're uncomfortable comparing yours vs "X" maybe someone else that actually reads that Matrix can post up the differences here?
Sorry, that is not a direction I wish to take this thread.

It may not be a good fit on the forums either.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I’m digging the discussion, my previous EcoBoost tuner literally cracked hidden items inside the ECU that allowed him to change more parameters than anyone at the time.

I ran three different tuners’ tunes and his was entirely different, mostly to the good.

It appears that have been able to dig deep in the Kia’s ECU and can alter a lot. Is the transmission strategy do-able yet or just experimental?
 
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I’m digging the discussion, my previous EcoBoost tuner literally cracked hidden items inside the ECU that allowed him to change more parameters than anyone at the time.

I ran three different tuners’ tunes and his was entirely different, mostly to the good.

It appears that have been able to dig deep in the Kia’s ECU and can alter a lot. Is the transmission strategy do-able yet or just experimental?
Definitely interesting. He has shared more scattered around the forums. I know there was some problem with power during shift and they figured that out and the chart looked way different afterwards. May be worth checking those old charts vs what's on the market vs the new charts.

Also they figured out something on the top end to do with airflow I think. It seemed the muffler or intakes were wrecking power up top. I don't know if the tune changed there though.
 
That is why I made this thread, to try and help those understand in a more basic down to earth format.

Is there more coming? Beyond the first post with the additional tables Its seems to be high level general statements that piggy backs are bad because they mask data.
 
How much timing can/will the ECU pull or add? As in what is that threshold?

I’ve read 3* but that’s not great.
LoL...

I am not laughing at you, I am laughing at how hard that question will be to answer.

It can go to -40 and the highest Ibhave seen is 55 positive.

There is a LOT of ignition correction in this ECU, and I mean a LOT!!!! I wouldn't even try to guess, but if I had to. 400 + maps.

I am going to assume you are talking under full load, and the most I have seen in a single event is -8 degees pulled from a 500 RPM window. The most it can pull depends on how long the correction lasts (time in seconds). I think the lowest it can go under full load is -15 degrees and the highest is 24. I will have to double check the high limiter.

So, this is how it works. Underfull load you have a base timing map for, exhaust temp, base, cam timing to exhaust temp, knock timing, coolant temp, oil temp, calculated fuel temp and correction tables for normal knock and mega knock. I am sure I am missing a few, but you get the idea.

Now, the adsptive ignition tables have a correction of a max of +6 or -6 degrees. These normally populate pretty quick. Then, it looks at coolant temp, exhaust temp and base ignition. This is your "base" timing map.

So, we have the car in full throttle and now the full load ignition trim adaptives kick in, adjusting the base timing map (base timing is all the maps above combined into one). Adaptives are adjusted via knock sensor reporting, adjusting for minor and major knock.

Whew...

Now, as the engine moves through the RPM band there are changes in the engine harmonics that represent the knock sensor settings, if knock is detected minor knock gets applied to the adptive table, and you will see a .5 to 1.5 knock adjustment. If you get major knock (mega knock), it will pull 3.0 degrees instantly, and gets saved under the mega knock adaptive.

God, I hope that helps.

The good thing about minor knock, its constantly adjusted. The bad thing about mega knock and it will only clear from an ECU reset, or xxx miles of drive time. Mega kmock may also reset after a fill up at ththe gas station, but I have not found that map index yet.

To answer your question, its a minimum and max ignition levels that are spread across several different maps.

I hope this helped, because I sucked at explaining it.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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