3.3TT AVAILABLE NOW... SSR PERFORMANCE Power Pack 3 Development!

[Adamdan]

I can almost make it out in the video, but not quite. I'm pretty sure I know what you're talking about though and it's pretty common when people start modifying the exhaust on their cars. I'm honestly not sure what causes it and I absolutely hate the sound. If it were me I would try to get rid of the sound but if I couldn't, I would sell that DP in a second.

I found online it seams to be a common thing with v6 after removing cats. The 350z or any car with the vq motor has it as well. The 350z gets it really bad because of no turbo. They all call it rasp. I guess I’m lucky it’s really hard to get my car to make the sound and it’s also not loud. I read it can also improve after breaking in the pipes. This seems happens More when people install test pipes when still using the stock muffers, and a free flowing cat back can help.

 

[Jaymorz]

Any update regarding the EVC axleback? I see it available for pre-order but sound clips and in-cabin sampling would be nice

 

[Never thought]

Any update regarding the EVC axleback? I see it available for pre-order but sound clips and in-cabin sampling would be nice

Where is it listed for preorder? I don’t see it on their site.

Edit: found it.

 

[SKStinger]

Update on the grinding sound some of us are experiencing since installing these midpipes:

Since installing aftermarket mid-pipes (secondary cat deletes from SSR Performance) I began experiencing a grinding sound while turning. A metal on metal sound. Most noticeable on left turns and seemed to originate from the drivers side. It would usually occur on the first turn or two after start up and then disappear. My AWD 3.3tt was completely quiet prior.

So I took a closer look under the car and noticed that the heat shielding in the tunnel above the driver side pipe was very close to striking the pipe. I was able to loosen and adjust the midpipe to move it down and give it some more clearance. I also used my hands to press the heat shielding up and away from the pipe. It’s very flexible material so bends easily under pressure.

Since doing this I’ve had no noise while turning.

 

[Rango]

Had the SSR DPs installed today. My take on the differences from stock DPs.

I have heard no rasp. What I did hear is more of the same engine note under moderate boost. Fit was fine ... checked clearance. Engine seemed to open up much easier with throttle input. I have JT intakes and still have stock mufflers. I could not hear a difference in turbo spooling due to my JTs. Very satisfied. Here are some pics of the stock DPs ... secondary cats.



My JT lungs have better bronchials now.

 

[Doel]

Had the SSR DPs installed today. My take on the differences from stock DPs.

I have heard no rasp. What I did hear is more of the same engine note under moderate boost. Fit was fine ... checked clearance. Engine seemed to open up much easier with throttle input. I have JT intakes and still have stock mufflers. I could not hear a difference in turbo spooling due to my JTs. Very satisfied. Here are some pics of the stock DPs ... secondary cats.
View attachment 14153
View attachment 14154
View attachment 14155
My JT lungs have better bronchials now.

so would you say the same engine/exhaust note, just a little louder?

 

[Rango]

so would you say the same engine/exhaust note, just a little louder?

Exactly. Just hear the same note ... just a weeee bit louder under moderate acceleration in the cabin.

 

[STINGER]

Any update regarding the EVC axleback? I see it available for pre-order but sound clips and in-cabin sampling would be nice

I am waiting on the sound sample as well. They have a resonated mid-pipe as well, it is part of the exhaust suite. Everything is listed at a discounted introductory price without the sound samples?

 

[Angel]

 

[Angel]

 

[Angus Law]

Had the SSR DPs installed today. My take on the differences from stock DPs.

I have heard no rasp. What I did hear is more of the same engine note under moderate boost. Fit was fine ... checked clearance. Engine seemed to open up much easier with throttle input. I have JT intakes and still have stock mufflers. I could not hear a difference in turbo spooling due to my JTs. Very satisfied. Here are some pics of the stock DPs ... secondary cats.
View attachment 14153
View attachment 14154
View attachment 14155
My JT lungs have better bronchials now.

Hi Rango
How long does it take from order to delivery?
I had ordered for 2 weeks and still wait for dispatch.
I know the website said it may take 3-4weeks to prepare
Just want to know it really need 4week to delivery or not
Can’t wait for the installation

 

[Rango]

Took 3 weeks for delivery.

 

[Keith Ruff]

Hey Angel,
How are you liking the SSR downpipe/axle back combo? Sounds awesome standing still at idle and revving, but is there any drone while cruising? That sound is exactly what I am looking for but don't want bad drone.

 

[Jonathan Lasich]

+1 on the primary with cat

+2 on the primary with cat

 

[Blitz]

Any chance you guys would sell a package of all 3 of your Stinger bolt-ons?

 

[Blitz]

Also, any vids of all 3?

 

[Roarbomb]

Warning.. tl;dr

Did the install this morning. Total of 1.5 hours start to finish including a jaunt around the neighborhood.
My advise to those without access to a lift is to back up or pull forward on ramps and jack up one side at a time. I opted to back on to them. I started driver's side by removing the rear nuts on both sides and then the front driver's side. You'll use 19mm sockets to remove the exhaust nuts with a 12" extension to the front. Breaker bars are handy unless you are gorilla strong. Once broken they come off by hand.
I was able to get to the front passenger side without jacking the other side, but it might be less effort by switching the jack. Then I removed the bracing. Six bolts, all 14mm. No issues there.
Make sure you pull off both sides before you attempt to install ... The exhaust moves enough to allow for the midpipe to slip off the studs up front then pivot sown. Again, take both sides off before installing.

Bolting back up is simple. Stock nuts up front (switching the jack makes it easier) and supplied nuts and bolts at the back. I reinstalled the brace and loosely attached it to the pipes to get them in position to align in the rear. Center by feel both left and right and up and down. The flanges are slightly different in shape but it's not hard to get them aligned. The driver's side was slightly a different angle but still seals perfectly.
17mm box wrench and socket tighten these, or you can double socket/wrench. Use your muscles here... Work each one in slowly. A torque wrench might be helpful but just make them as tight as humanly possible then use your breaker to move a bit more.

Great fit, only a bit of sound in the cabin. Virtually none with the windows open. I'll have to disconnect my jb4 to allow the car to adjust to give a fair assessment of butt Dyno feels. Then I'll log and send to them to fine tune.

Totally worth a couple hours of work... Those midpipes are tiny from the factory.

How did you get the threaded pins out. Also 6 brace bolts, I count 4. Am I missing some. Car is currently on ramps and all bolts I think are off

 

[DiabloStinger]

Don't take any threaded pins out... They stay on the front. It's been a while but there might be just two brace bolts on each side.

 

[Roarbomb]

So we got the old ones off and the new ones on. I do t k ow what I’ve done but it rattles like crazy. I parked it for the night and will tackle it tomorrow. I have no idea what’s rattling.

 

[Never thought]

So we got the old ones off and the new ones on. I do t k ow what I’ve done but it rattles like crazy. I parked it for the night and will tackle it tomorrow. I have no idea what’s rattling.

I can’t help you on that but it definitely shouldn’t rattle.