Ok, so a range might be difficult to pinpoint, but... on a 9” (228.6mm) wheel with 0mm offset, the wheel mounting surface (WMS) to tire bead surface is 114.3mm.
With the above 35et wheel, he is at 149.3mm (which is moving the barrel further in towards the strut, or the WMS out towards the outside of the wheel depending on how you look at it).
But that doesn’t account for the extra material on the lip of the wheel which adds to the backspacing.
I wish I saved all the measurements I took after getting my wheels, but I think the rim was an extra 1/2” or 13mm. We’ll use that...
So now we have 114.3 + 35 + 13 = 162.3mm (6.4”) which is backspace
I have 7 or 8mm to my strut, so we have approximately 170mm from WMS to strut with a 20” wheel. Probably less, my wheel is a 32mm offset.
Since the strut is angled inside the wheel barrel on a bias, smaller diameter wheels will generally have a smaller amount of space to work with.
If my math is right, for an 8.5x20” (216mm) wheel to match the flushness as the above 35et wheel you’d take out 1/4” (6.5mm) of offset = 28mm
8.5”
Inside 108 + 28 = 136mm
Outside 108 - 28 = 80mm
9”
Inside 114.3 + 35 = 149.3
Outside 114.3 - 35 = 79.3
With the 8.5” you can bring the wheel out flush, but have more room for activities on the inside for larger coilovers.
So you can quickly make adjustments in your head since others before us blazed the trail and gave us something to work with. 6mm is 1/4” and 13mm is 1/2” approximately. You can move the wheel in and out for desired tuck/flushness/poke within the constraints of strut contact and fender rubbing.
You can also find the stock widths and offsets and make a few educated guesses on how much more your new wheels will stick out.
Hope I clarified part of your question.
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