3.3TT Which oil viscosity is everyone using?

[JustThatPenguin]

What viscosity grades is everyone using? 5w - 30?

 

[donbachinsky]

5w30. Use what Kia recommend

 

[Ruturaj]

Sorry for pulling up the old thread. Kia recommends 5W30 and 10W30 depending on temperature. I think if temperature permits, 10W30 is superior choice.

Here's a good discussion:
5w30 vs 10w30

 

[MisterMac]

It gets pretty hot here, so I am running 5w40.

 

[nhcowboy28]

READ YOUR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!

For farks sake.

 

[Ruturaj]

It gets pretty hot here, so I am running 5w40.

I think bigger the difference between 0 (first number 5) and 212 (second number 40) viscosity, more the adjectives, Noack volatility. And if it hots then you don't need 5wXX you need (higher number)wXX. Changing viscosity at operating temp (212) is not related to climate (assumption).

 

[MisterMac]

READ YOUR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!

For farks sake.

Yes, your OM provides for a wide range of acceptable oil viscosities from which you can chose one for your climate and driving conditions.

 

[Ruturaj]

READ YOUR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!

For farks sake.

Sorry for pulling up the old thread. Kia recommends 5W30 and 10W30 depending on temperature. I think if temperature permits, 10W30 is superior choice.

Here's a good discussion:
5w30 vs 10w30

My Manual recommends both. That's why the debate.

Edit: Read the posts in thread for farks sake.

 

[MisterMac]

Page 8-9 gives you the chart. Pick what fits your climate and driving. I could run 15w40, but choose Euro Spec Mobile 1 5w40. Nothing magical here.

 

[Ruturaj]

Page 8-9 gives you the chart. Pick what fits your climate and driving. I could run 15w40, but choose Euro Spec Mobile 1 5w40. Nothing magical here. View attachment 16819

I think mines a little different, will post a pic if it is.

I think it's better to have 1st number (cold engine start temp viscosity) higher. So 5W40 is not better choice over 15W40 actually worst. (I think so by going over the discussion in bobistheoilguy forum).

Edit: If climate permits both.

 

[MisterMac]

I think mines a little different, will post a pic if it is.

I think it's better to have 1st number (cold engine start temp viscosity) higher. So 5W40 is not better choice over 15W40 actually worst. (I think so by going over the discussion in bobistheoilguy forum).

Yeah, I am an avid fan of Bobistheoilguy too. It came down to availability of the oil and the fact that Kia recommends the 5w weight for better fuel economy. As I change my oil well before it is degraded, I believe I am fine. However, if it becomes readily available here, I will run 20w50, especially during the summer months.

Again, these are all permissible and will keep your PT warranty intact.

 

[Ruturaj]

I found nine pages to read

Oil for new 18 Stinger GT

 

[Ruturaj]

Yeah, I am an avid fan of Bobistheoilguy too. It came down to availability of the oil and the fact that Kia recommends the 5w weight for better fuel economy. As I change my oil well before it is degraded, I believe I am fine. However, if it becomes readily available here, I will run 20w50, especially during the summer months.

Again, these are all permissible and will keep your PT warranty intact.

I am not concerned about warranty but more about avoiding carbon build-up from oil evaporation.

 

[Socalstinga]

I use 5w40 based on the recommendation of my mechanic.

 

[Ruturaj]

I use 5w40 based on the recommendation of my mechanic.

If I am in California, I wouldn't. Oil evaporation is high on lower 5wXX oil. On GDI engines that's an issue. The heaviest weight oil that weather permits should be used out of recommended oils.

 

[MisterMac]

If I am in California, I wouldn't. Oil evaporation is high on lower 5wXX oil. On GDI engines that's an issue. The heaviest weight oil that weather permits should be used out of recommended oils.

It is good have something that you can hold onto, and I applaud your efforts here. Yet, I have to let you know this assertion regarding 5x40 synthetic oil has as much chance of catching traction as our summer tires do at 10 degrees f and six inches of snow.

 

[Ruturaj]

It is good have something that you can hold onto, and I applaud your efforts here. Yet, I have to let you know this assertion regarding 5x40 synthetic oil has as much chance of catching traction as our summer tires do at 10 degrees f and six inches of snow.

So was watching this video, some BITOG search and some reddit info lead me to

NOACK values for Penzzoil Platinum with Pure plus (%)

0W-20: 10.8%
5W-20: 8.6%
5W-30: 10.1%
10W-30: 4.7%

As in here, 5w30 has higher NOACK % compared to 5w20, so I assume 5w40 would have even more. And 10w30 has significantly less.

I was stuck on NOACK values but currently I am not sure of how much they affect carbon build up as according to some posts oil vapors are not problem rather oil mist is.

Given short oil change interval (6k), everyone who's using synthetic oil should be fine with 'oil loss' by vaporizing for sure. I am still looking in to other factors that might make a difference.

Also, less traction is more fun . But trying to gain some.

 

[SteveCo]

After many years and many vehicles, I've arrived at a precision honed oil strategy:

1) Buy a name brand oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications - preferably ahead of time when it's on sale. I have no allegiance, and don't care if it's Mobil, Castrol, Pennzoil, etc.
2) Buy a good quality oil filter, not a generic - or the car manufacturer's house brand, which I know is good enough for them to trust for their warranty.
3) Change the oil at the manufacturer's recommended oil intervals.

So far, it's been infallible - never had a good engine turn into an oil burner, make noise, or fail. Too much other stuff going on to worry about chasing NOACK values.

 

[Ruturaj]

After many years and many vehicles, I've arrived at a precision honed oil strategy:

1) Buy a name brand oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications - preferably ahead of time when it's on sale. I have no allegiance, and don't care if it's Mobil, Castrol, Pennzoil, etc.
2) Buy a good quality oil filter, not a generic - or the car manufacturer's house brand, which I know is good enough for them to trust for their warranty.
3) Change the oil at the manufacturer's recommended oil intervals.

So far, it's been infallible - never had a good engine turn into an oil burner, make noise, or fail. Too much other stuff going on to worry about chasing NOACK values.

If carbon builds up, then we will have decreased performance. We are paying for performance in the car right (fuel and price of the car)? The manufacture gives free options depending on weather (not to you guy in Canada), so we got chance to choose. Your strategy is good and still leaves with a lot of options (viscosity, NOACK).

 

[Socalstinga]

I've installed an oil catch can almost as soon as I purchased the car, exactly to address the issues that were brought up on the video. every little bit of prevention helps....