What did you pay for your Kia Stinger?

[Kia Stinger]

Traded in my 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited. Still have a Mustang Cobra in the driveway, but I think with the Stinger now...the Cobra will need to find a new home...

That Sonata you have is quite nice. It's the first Sonata that really caught my eye. A lot of people prefer the curvy previous generation. However, I think the one you have is very classy looking. I remember first seeing one behind me a few years ago - thinking it was a Mercedes-Benz. Those LED fog lights really look great at the front. Otherwise, the whole car looks nice and the interior is very impressive. Hyundai has come a long way. When my wife got a 2015 Genesis Sedan, we looked at the Sonata first. I was okay with that - but she HAD to have the Genesis. I don't blame her - but I think we'd have been just as happy with the Sonata...

Mustang Cobra, huh? Very nice... Not entirely sure the Stinger can replace that kind of performance - but it all depends on what generation you have...

 

[Bear]

That Sonata you have is quite nice. It's the first Sonata that really caught my eye. A lot of people prefer the curvy previous generation. However, I think the one you have is very classy looking. I remember first seeing one behind me a few years ago - thinking it was a Mercedes-Benz. Those LED fog lights really look great at the front. Otherwise, the whole car looks nice and the interior is very impressive. Hyundai has come a long way. When my wife got a 2015 Genesis Sedan, we looked at the Sonata first. I was okay with that - but she HAD to have the Genesis. I don't blame her - but I think we'd have been just as happy with the Sonata...

Mustang Cobra, huh? Very nice... Not entirely sure the Stinger can replace that kind of performance - but it all depends on what generation you have...

I had a 2015 Optima SXL 3 years ago, but traded it in for a 2016 Sorento SXL when I had my daughter. The Sorento got traded in for a Suburban...so at that point I had a F-150 and a Suburban. I was actually out looking at the Optima again, but got a killer deal on the Sonata. Told my wife I was holding out for the Stinger...so that Sonata was going, but it was a fantastic car.

The Cobra is a '97 (was fully built), but recently gave that motor to a buddy since I'm going to get rid of it. Not going to get $25k back from that motor. So the Mustang (Mach 1) that motor is in now...is a 700-800rwhp car now. My Cobra is now a mere 313rwhp...so its nothing compared to the Stinger.

Already started looking for mods for the Stinger such as LAP3 tune and exhaust. So hoping this forum will help me get back up into the high HP range, but now with the Stinger. Glad to be apart of the community!

 

[MarkyMark]

Fully loaded red on black nappa GT2 AWD 3.3 TT for $49,500 (MSRP $52,300). Was looking for blue on grey, but they're hard to find and then again...the grey isn't nappa leather...which can make quite the difference.

Did you purchase or lease?

 

[Bear]

Did you purchase or lease?

This was a purchase. Honestly never done a lease before...only purchases. I’d lose money on a lease...I can’t stop driving the Stinger.

 

[MarkyMark]

This was a purchase. Honestly never done a lease before...only purchases. I’d lose money on a lease...I can’t stop driving the Stinger.

Sounds great Bear! What part of the country are you in? I'll assume west coast with a nice discount like that, but who knows?...

I would never lease due to several factors, but I have discovered the lease cash portion of a lease incentive. Think of it as a Credit Card company offering: "We will give you $250 cash if you spend $3k on the card in the first 3 months." Out of 100 people that take it up, 60% tell themselves they'll quit the card before the annual fee and as soon as they get the $250. In reality, 90% keep the card for well over a year, and far too many people carry a balance on their Credit Card. Ack!

But the Credit Card company (the bank behind them really) is more than willing to give away $250 to the scant few that take the card, put $3k on it within a few months time, pay the card off each and every month, and then cancel the card. It's the more than acceptable cost of doing business.

Well, lease cash is looking more and more like this type of a situation. I'm after a GT RWD. The lease cash is $5400. Kia Financial (that is, the bank behind them) will throw a rebate of $5400 against the price of that model for a 36 month lease.

Come the fall, I should be able to get the dealer to tear of $2k - $2,500 for the lease price (much like you did for your purchase). Add the two together and the negotiated "Capital Cost" is $33,600 or so. The starting point of where everything is valued at for the lease at that point.

There is a lot that goes into after that point, but like the Credit Cards, MY move is to pay the monthly lease payments for 3 months, then pay the remaining 33 month stream of payments and buy the car for a residual of around $21,000 - $22,000.

It's complicated, and each lease is different with early buyout penalties or late buyout penalties, etc... But the point is, I could potentially save a few more thousand off the total price I pay for the car, vs a straight up purchase.

It is a LOT more work, and it isn't one-and-done and I own it. Rather, it is the entire lease negotiation, carefully reading the entire agreement - and understanding everything about it - and then 3 months in, going back and paying it all off, and basically going through all the purchase paperwork at that point to actually buy it. If it can save me an extra $4k or so, it's worth if for me.

I'm still looking into this, but it's available to people, but I'm guessing 99% of those that purchase are not aware of playing the cards this way (I had never heard of this until this forum the other day), and those that lease, 80% run their lease out close to term. The rest walk away because they can't afford it, and some buyout. The bank accepts the small % of players that play the purchase game with the lease, but it's a small, small, number and an acceptable one at that for all the leases they pull in.

 

[AKStinger]

I mentioned that I wanted my Costco pricing... The dealership said they'd look into it, called me back 15 minutes later and knocked $2300 off the purchase price. Black w/red GT2 awd with 19 inch rims for $50 all said and done. Don't forget to mention costco, they won't ask you for it!

 

[MarkyMark]

I mentioned that I wanted my Costco pricing... The dealership said they'd look into it, called me back 15 minutes later and knocked $2300 off the purchase price. Black w/red GT2 awd with 19 inch rims for $50 all said and done. Don't forget to mention costco, they won't ask you for it!

That's a GREAT tip AKStinger! Not every deal works with Costco, and even if the one you went to does not, they immediately know if they don't get you that Costco-level price, you are outta there on the phone to Costco and you'll get the Costco pricing nearly instantly, so put up or lose the business. Again, nice move!

And if you are in an area of the country that is experiencing dealer markup, or they just won't dicker that much, due to lack of choices and high demand, etc... Just go to Costco and get that Costco discount. Doesn't matter if the car his "hot" or there are few available, etc... it's a contract system Costco has in place with dealers nationwide. You'll always get the Costco discount.

 

[Bear]

Sounds great Bear! What part of the country are you in? I'll assume west coast with a nice discount like that, but who knows?...

I would never lease due to several factors, but I have discovered the lease cash portion of a lease incentive. Think of it as a Credit Card company offering: "We will give you $250 cash if you spend $3k on the card in the first 3 months." Out of 100 people that take it up, 60% tell themselves they'll quit the card before the annual fee and as soon as they get the $250. In reality, 90% keep the card for well over a year, and far too many people carry a balance on their Credit Card. Ack!

But the Credit Card company (the bank behind them really) is more than willing to give away $250 to the scant few that take the card, put $3k on it within a few months time, pay the card off each and every month, and then cancel the card. It's the more than acceptable cost of doing business.

Well, lease cash is looking more and more like this type of a situation. I'm after a GT RWD. The lease cash is $5400. Kia Financial (that is, the bank behind them) will throw a rebate of $5400 against the price of that model for a 36 month lease.

Come the fall, I should be able to get the dealer to tear of $2k - $2,500 for the lease price (much like you did for your purchase). Add the two together and the negotiated "Capital Cost" is $33,600 or so. The starting point of where everything is valued at for the lease at that point.

There is a lot that goes into after that point, but like the Credit Cards, MY move is to pay the monthly lease payments for 3 months, then pay the remaining 33 month stream of payments and buy the car for a residual of around $21,000 - $22,000.

It's complicated, and each lease is different with early buyout penalties or late buyout penalties, etc... But the point is, I could potentially save a few more thousand off the total price I pay for the car, vs a straight up purchase.

It is a LOT more work, and it isn't one-and-done and I own it. Rather, it is the entire lease negotiation, carefully reading the entire agreement - and understanding everything about it - and then 3 months in, going back and paying it all off, and basically going through all the purchase paperwork at that point to actually buy it. If it can save me an extra $4k or so, it's worth if for me.

I'm still looking into this, but it's available to people, but I'm guessing 99% of those that purchase are not aware of playing the cards this way (I had never heard of this until this forum the other day), and those that lease, 80% run their lease out close to term. The rest walk away because they can't afford it, and some buyout. The bank accepts the small % of players that play the purchase game with the lease, but it's a small, small, number and an acceptable one at that for all the leases they pull in.

I'm actually East Coast...Washington, DC metro area.

I work for a credit union (world's largest) and I usually stay up on leasing/purchasing practices, although I'm on the IT side. I find it better, for me at least, to purchase vs lease because I'm able to work the deals better, but also I go with credit union rates, which are lower than what banks typically offer. I have done KMF in the past on a couple of my Kia's, but mainly because they were offering 0% AND rebates. I know for the most recent deal, they had a $750 rebate, but my KMF rate was 6.5% to take that rebate. With my 840 credit score...that is a little hard to digest and I stuck with my 2.9% credit union rate and no rebate...still ended up less interest over the life of the loan. I also typically pay down loans much quicker. I target my highest interest loans and knock them out the quickest.

I heavily debated the GT RWD vs the GT2 AWD. In this area, you can have no snow or 4' of snow and stupid icy conditions. So I figured I'd stick with the AWD, since its my daily driver. I have my Suburban for when it gets back, but I don't always want to rely on that...its nice to drive something else every once in awhile. So AWD was important to me and the cooled seats was my other must have. Of course my wife was leaning more towards the RWD, she didn't see the features worth $10k...but cooled seats here in the Summer is worth the $10k for me.

So the GT RWD would be a great choice even without certain additional features that only come with the GT2. Maybe the wife will let me buy another one...and I'd definitely get the RWD GT and mod the hell out of it...void the warranty from day one.

 

[Never thought]

Sounds great Bear! What part of the country are you in? I'll assume west coast with a nice discount like that, but who knows?...

I would never lease due to several factors, but I have discovered the lease cash portion of a lease incentive. Think of it as a Credit Card company offering: "We will give you $250 cash if you spend $3k on the card in the first 3 months." Out of 100 people that take it up, 60% tell themselves they'll quit the card before the annual fee and as soon as they get the $250. In reality, 90% keep the card for well over a year, and far too many people carry a balance on their Credit Card. Ack!

But the Credit Card company (the bank behind them really) is more than willing to give away $250 to the scant few that take the card, put $3k on it within a few months time, pay the card off each and every month, and then cancel the card. It's the more than acceptable cost of doing business.

Well, lease cash is looking more and more like this type of a situation. I'm after a GT RWD. The lease cash is $5400. Kia Financial (that is, the bank behind them) will throw a rebate of $5400 against the price of that model for a 36 month lease.

Come the fall, I should be able to get the dealer to tear of $2k - $2,500 for the lease price (much like you did for your purchase). Add the two together and the negotiated "Capital Cost" is $33,600 or so. The starting point of where everything is valued at for the lease at that point.

There is a lot that goes into after that point, but like the Credit Cards, MY move is to pay the monthly lease payments for 3 months, then pay the remaining 33 month stream of payments and buy the car for a residual of around $21,000 - $22,000.

It's complicated, and each lease is different with early buyout penalties or late buyout penalties, etc... But the point is, I could potentially save a few more thousand off the total price I pay for the car, vs a straight up purchase.

It is a LOT more work, and it isn't one-and-done and I own it. Rather, it is the entire lease negotiation, carefully reading the entire agreement - and understanding everything about it - and then 3 months in, going back and paying it all off, and basically going through all the purchase paperwork at that point to actually buy it. If it can save me an extra $4k or so, it's worth if for me.

I'm still looking into this, but it's available to people, but I'm guessing 99% of those that purchase are not aware of playing the cards this way (I had never heard of this until this forum the other day), and those that lease, 80% run their lease out close to term. The rest walk away because they can't afford it, and some buyout. The bank accepts the small % of players that play the purchase game with the lease, but it's a small, small, number and an acceptable one at that for all the leases they pull in.

When I bought my GT2 I did the same math. Residual was $25k after 3 years. The math came back a little more expensive if I leased and bought even with dealer incentives. So I decided to buy. I am no mathematician so I could’ve got the math wrong.

 

[ralzod]

Fully loaded red on black nappa GT2 AWD 3.3 TT for $49,500 (MSRP $52,300). Was looking for blue on grey, but they're hard to find and then again...the grey isn't nappa leather...which can make quite the difference.

Please cite your source on the gray not being Nappa leather. No documentation that I've ever seen indicates a difference between the leather colors. Then again, there's apparently no official standard for what qualifies as Nappa leather anyway.

 

[Bear]

Please cite your source on the gray not being Nappa leather. No documentation that I've ever seen indicates a difference between the leather colors. Then again, there's apparently no official standard for what qualifies as Nappa leather anyway.

Salesman told me, but also checked Kia's website. If you select the "Build & Price" from Kia's website and choose the Stinger and select the GT2, once you get to the choosing color portion...click on the different exterior colors and when you select "Micro Blue Pearl"...it'll have "Light Gray Leather". The other interior colors are "Black Nappa Leather" or "Red Nappa Leather".

You can also check under Kia's Features for all the trim levels @ {{mctrl.meta.metaTitle}}

Only the GT2 has the nappa leather option, but if you hover over the gray under the GT2 column at the top of the page on the "Interior" row...its only "Light Gray Leather" all the other GT2 leathers have "Nappa".

This could be a mistake by Kia on their data if the gray really is nappa...

Nappa leather is a softer and sanded leather. Its more resistant to fading from the sun and staining.

 

[MarkyMark]

I'm actually East Coast...Washington, DC metro area.

I work for a credit union (world's largest) and I usually stay up on leasing/purchasing practices, although I'm on the IT side. I find it better, for me at least, to purchase vs lease because I'm able to work the deals better, but also I go with credit union rates, which are lower than what banks typically offer. I have done KMF in the past on a couple of my Kia's, but mainly because they were offering 0% AND rebates. I know for the most recent deal, they had a $750 rebate, but my KMF rate was 6.5% to take that rebate. With my 840 credit score...that is a little hard to digest and I stuck with my 2.9% credit union rate and no rebate...still ended up less interest over the life of the loan. I also typically pay down loans much quicker. I target my highest interest loans and knock them out the quickest.

I heavily debated the GT RWD vs the GT2 AWD. In this area, you can have no snow or 4' of snow and stupid icy conditions. So I figured I'd stick with the AWD, since its my daily driver. I have my Suburban for when it gets back, but I don't always want to rely on that...its nice to drive something else every once in awhile. So AWD was important to me and the cooled seats was my other must have. Of course my wife was leaning more towards the RWD, she didn't see the features worth $10k...but cooled seats here in the Summer is worth the $10k for me.

So the GT RWD would be a great choice even without certain additional features that only come with the GT2. Maybe the wife will let me buy another one...and I'd definitely get the RWD GT and mod the hell out of it...void the warranty from day one.

I often think the 0.0% is nothing more than a false advertising game. No way 840 doesn't qualify for that! My credit may be "too good" in that we went Dave Ramsey style, and paid our house of 5 years ago, have no card debt, put everything on our Costco CC's, but pay them off in full each and every month. So we may be punished for not being in debt. How stupid is that?! We are the among the most "good for it" people with money a bank or car financial institution could find, and they likely won't give me their best rate either. I'd like to see if anyone actually gets the 0.0%... In fact, maybe THAT is a great question for this blog!...

As for the GT. I am not sure I can, and/or want to spend even that much. Never going over $25k that is just a HUGE jump to me. I'll save for the loan is only 2.5 years or less, and it's only $10k worth, but still, a lot of money for rapidly depreciating assets. But hey, the Stinger IS way cool! ; )

I would really like the memory seats, but I don't care about the sunroof... I will opt for the $2k safety package. Wish they would include blind spot and a few other items standard like Toyota is doing in much of their fleet, but maybe the 2019's will give us even more...

Congrats on your rigs!!! Once I drove the V6 I was like "Okay, screw the gas mileage thing this time, because this thing rocks!"

 

[AKStinger]

I often think the 0.0% is nothing more than a false advertising game. No way 840 doesn't qualify for that! My credit may be "too good" in that we went Dave Ramsey style, and paid our house of 5 years ago, have no card debt, put everything on our Costco CC's, but pay them off in full each and every month. So we may be punished for not being in debt. How stupid is that?! We are the among the most "good for it" people with money a bank or car financial institution could find, and they likely won't give me their best rate either. I'd like to see if anyone actually gets the 0.0%... In fact, maybe THAT is a great question for this blog!...

As for the GT. I am not sure I can, and/or want to spend even that much. Never going over $25k that is just a HUGE jump to me. I'll save for the loan is only 2.5 years or less, and it's only $10k worth, but still, a lot of money for rapidly depreciating assets. But hey, the Stinger IS way cool! ; )

I would really like the memory seats, but I don't care about the sunroof... I will opt for the $2k safety package. Wish they would include blind spot and a few other items standard like Toyota is doing in much of their fleet, but maybe the 2019's will give us even more...

Congrats on your rigs!!! Once I drove the V6 I was like "Okay, screw the gas mileage thing this time, because this thing rocks!"

I got the Kia financing 0.9% rate. Haven't seen anything about a 0.0 but not a big difference over a relatively short term. I do agree that the more money I borrow the higher my credit rating goes! Just took out a construction loan about 6 months ago and my score is up about 70 points?!

 

[jasheppard84]

I'm actually East Coast...Washington, DC metro area.

I work for a credit union (world's largest) and I usually stay up on leasing/purchasing practices, although I'm on the IT side. I find it better, for me at least, to purchase vs lease because I'm able to work the deals better, but also I go with credit union rates, which are lower than what banks typically offer. I have done KMF in the past on a couple of my Kia's, but mainly because they were offering 0% AND rebates. I know for the most recent deal, they had a $750 rebate, but my KMF rate was 6.5% to take that rebate. With my 840 credit score...that is a little hard to digest and I stuck with my 2.9% credit union rate and no rebate...still ended up less interest over the life of the loan. I also typically pay down loans much quicker. I target my highest interest loans and knock them out the quickest.

I think you probably could have worked them over on the KMF rate... What did you put down? I managed the $750 rebate, plus 1.9% on the KMF rate. I also have an 800+ credit score. Negotiated to 48k for the purchase. Buuuuut... I also put about half down, so maybe that was the deciding factor.

Got everything I wanted, 2nd choice on color. Black GT2 AWD with the 19s and red Nappa.

 

[Bear]

I think you probably could have worked them over on the KMF rate... What did you put down? I managed the $750 rebate, plus 1.9% on the KMF rate. I also have an 800+ credit score. Negotiated to 48k for the purchase. Buuuuut... I also put about half down, so maybe that was the deciding factor.

Got everything I wanted, 2nd choice on color. Black GT2 AWD with the 19s and red Nappa.

That’s an excellent deal and rate! The first dealership I was at didn’t take $1 off the Stinger during “attempted” negotiations. So I was happy with my purchase at the other dealership, but would have preferred yours.

I didn’t put anything down but a mere $500. Maybe that had something to do with it...not sure. But that KMF rate was outrageous...never been given a rate that high.

 

[AKStinger]

I think you probably could have worked them over on the KMF rate... What did you put down? I managed the $750 rebate, plus 1.9% on the KMF rate. I also have an 800+ credit score. Negotiated to 48k for the purchase. Buuuuut... I also put about half down, so maybe that was the deciding factor.

Got everything I wanted, 2nd choice on color. Black GT2 AWD with the 19s and red Nappa.

I think you probably could have worked them over on the KMF rate... What did you put down? I managed the $750 rebate, plus 1.9% on the KMF rate. I also have an 800+ credit score. Negotiated to 48k for the purchase. Buuuuut... I also put about half down, so maybe that was the deciding factor.

Got everything I wanted, 2nd choice on color. Black GT2 AWD with the 19s and red Nappa.

Sounds like we got the same car. Black/red gt2 awd with 19s and every option available (at least in the states). I didn't put anything down, used the Kia financing at 0.9%

 

[jasheppard84]

That’s an excellent deal and rate! The first dealership I was at didn’t take $1 off the Stinger during “attempted” negotiations. So I was happy with my purchase at the other dealership, but would have preferred yours.

I didn’t put anything down but a mere $500. Maybe that had something to do with it...not sure. But that KMF rate was outrageous...never been given a rate that high.

Yeah, I had to educate my dealer a bit... They had me doing written math on their paperwork to show them what they were missing, lol. In the end, they were at a little over 49k, and wanted me to sign-off on the math to take it to the GM for a commitment if they were able to take another $250 off. The salesman wrote it on the paper, and drew an X and a line for me to sign. I told him that if he wanted me to sign anything, it was gonna cost him more than $250. I added a 1 in front, and signed. They took it!

Of course, I used everything else in my tactics: I went in hard, bluffed on some "other quotes", and told him they were close, but too far to commit. It was 20F outside, and told them it was gonna be at least 850 off for me to drive away with summer rubber and accept that risk to my safety until I could put some appropriate tires on it. I also believe I had them relatively convinced that if I didn't buy it that day, that it would be on their lot until April, when the weather broke. I'm proud of myself for the deal that I worked. Research definitely paid off!

 

[MarkyMark]

I think you probably could have worked them over on the KMF rate... What did you put down? I managed the $750 rebate, plus 1.9% on the KMF rate. I also have an 800+ credit score. Negotiated to 48k for the purchase. Buuuuut... I also put about half down, so maybe that was the deciding factor.

Got everything I wanted, 2nd choice on color. Black GT2 AWD with the 19s and red Nappa.

Absolutely! A big down makes a big difference. It shows KFM a few things: A. You have discipline to save, so you probably, beyond your credit score, have some financial discipline. B. The loan is about $24k, which - math being what it is - represents half the risk the full price is for KFM. Nice job!

 

[MarkyMark]

When I bought my GT2 I did the same math. Residual was $25k after 3 years. The math came back a little more expensive if I leased and bought even with dealer incentives. So I decided to buy. I am no mathematician so I could’ve got the math wrong.

Thanks for that info! My BIG question is to what figure is the lease cash applied too? THAT is a BIG deal, and I'm not yet clear on that answer? My undertanding is the MSRP, to which the depreciated cost of the vehicle (say 54%) is figured from the MSPR, BUT then it is subtracted from the negotiated starting price of the car.

I'm going to the Portland auto show today, so I'll be talking with some folks of various brands for sure, and really get the skinny from multiple folks to get a solid handle on this. Thanks.

 

[Steve Ostrowski]

52500 at time of deposit was rolled back to 49990 once the Canadian pricing was announced for the fully loaded GT in Snow White Pearl with black interior. added 3200 for a 7 year bumper to bumper 200,000Km warranty from KIA (not third party) and 1600 for gap insurance if the car gets written off (it won't) and 800 for paint protection which was a gift to the sales person as I know it's BS. So 55590 plus tax. Much less than a Porsche Panamera, Audi A7, BMW Sport Coupe, Alph Romeo Giulia Quadrafoglio, oh yeah, and better looking than all of them!