What did you pay for your Kia Stinger?

[David Thomas]

Picked up my 19 gt1 ceramic silver last Thursday. Otd $40123.

 

[Bigbikes]

Just ordered my Stinger Gt white red leather and Bi-Modal exhaust on Thursday last wk,...$62,900...with mats and full tank petrol
But in Australia our Gt is with everything 360 cam, wireless charge, heated and cooled seats, active cruise etc ...

 

[Tobstertx3]

Wrong thread!

 

[soulvengeace]

My sale price for a Kia Stinger base was 30,319. I then got 5750 in rebates off of the 30319, but I'm not sure of exactly which rebates I got.

 

[zzplayfaster]

Hi all, I recently purchased a Stinger Base 2.0 and am pretty sure I got screwed, so posting the details in case this helps anyone. I embarrassed that I'm probably a case study for how NOT to buy a Stinger. But if it helps

I had been looking to trade my wimpy Nissan for the Stinger Base (or an Optima), but was still underwater going back a few cars because at the time I did a trade-in with a car I had driven/paid off for years I didn't have any other credit history (which had always been stellar) and got slammed with a cruddy interest rate. Fixed that a year later, but I've basically been chasing that interest.

Went to Jenkins KIA in Ocala to get some info on the Stinger and possibly drive, but you know how most dealers act where they want your keys to value your potential trade and then it's a fight to get those keys back before making a deal.

Well I made a deal that seemed good. I owed just under $15K on my Nissan (underwater by about $7K) and they were going to offer me $12K with a $3K down payment that would basically eliminate chasing that horses tail (or so I thought) Still I was curious as to what the payment structure would be $597/84. Unfortunately, I am not a lease candidate because I live in Ocala but work in Gainesville so I'm commuting about 90 miles a day.

So these are my finance numbers for a MICRO BLUE 2.0 BASE. Pretty sure I f***ed up. Don't let what happened to me happen to you:
Line 1 Cash Price Amount Financed: $42,250.10 (why is this so high? Why was this car priced at $38,000 when online at $34,235?
Gross Trade in Allowance $9,600 (huh, what happened to the $12K I was told?)
Less Pay Off: $5,419.11
Down Payment: $3,000
Consumer Rebate: $6150
Total Down Payment: $3,730.89
Unpaid Balance: $38,519.21
GAP (Required for me): $850
Taxes/Doc Stamps: $451.99
License Fee: $163.35
Car Care: $1,500 (I usually get due to the amount of miles per year I put on my vehicles- can this be canceled?)
Extended Warranty: $2,693 (I usually get because of the miles I put on my vehicles - can this be canceled?)
Road Hazard: $721
Amount Financed: $44,898.55. Seems incredibly high for a BASE considering I thought the negative equity would be offset by the rebates.

Finance had 2.9% 625/84, but I didn't really want to make payments that long and wanted to try to get to a break even point sooner. So I went with a 4.9% 776/66 that appears will get me break even in 4 years, but Holy @#$ that's almost twice my previous car payment.

It's not that I couldn't afford that price, I just felt guilty that I splurged on myself when I should have just gotten a Forte or even an Optima but Jenkins seems to be a prime dealer for marking Invoice several thousand above MSRP. Pretty surprising because when I bought my Sentra from them at their Lakeland Nissan dealership they seem pretty fair on price (but cruddy on trade-in values).

So the deal was done Sunday. Fast forward a couple days and that "Buyer's Remorse" feeling that usually goes away after 24 hours or so just kept lingering. I kept questioning why I had paid so much to drive this car when I know there were supposedly better deals online. I felt defeated and depressed. The car is absolute thrill to drive, but for some reason I just wasn't feeling as happy as I thought. I pretty much stayed in ECO mode the last two days driving to work. MPG was pretty good at 32.4, looks like 420 miles or so to a tank, about 30 miles more than my Sentra, so not bad.

Jenkins called me today to "check up" on me and I pretty much told them the truth that I had thought I had made a grave mistake and had felt great remorse over the deal. Now I understand there's no "cool-off" law regarding car buying, but I did hope that perhaps it was still within 10 days that the dealer could ax the contract if they could get me in a lesser car where they'd still make a good amount of interest or I could just do an immediate trade in where I could get back to a payment of around $400-$500. Hell, they even had the exact same Stinger in the used lot with only 9K miles for around $27K which seems like that would have been a much better deal. Neither was a no-go. Got told I could only do an immediate trade-in if I brought a massive amount of cash as a down payment (like $10K) to the table. Was told "the banks find that strange" (seems to be an issue that I purchased/financed a Soul as a gift to my mom last Christmas (she didn't have good credit), and I would have to wait at least a year which we all know 33% dep and very, very underwater to where it makes no sense. Now I know depreciation starts the minute you drive off the lot, but seriously my car has 230 miles on it. Even if you wanna ding me the $5-6K depreciation, put me in a Rio, Forte, or Soul and I'm back to where I should have been on Saturday. But nope. Then I asked about just selling the car back to them but of course that too would require a massive cash payment to cover whatever excess was left on the loan (seems like they would have paid only $20K). I looked at the extended warranty and car care/road hazards to see if it would make sense to cancel those to reduce the time to payoff the loan to 51 months and wanted to speak to a manager but was told they were "tied up". Defeated, I left, but I will not do business with these people again. I get the law is on their side but it's funny that the same day I get a letter in the mail from the dealer purporting to care how I feel about the post-buying experience and to share any concerns with them, I was basically told to buzz off that there was nothing they (w)could do.

That being said, I love my Stinger, I just feel this car isn't a fit for me like i was hoping it would be. I'll make the payments diligently, I just feel like I have been ripped off and am counting the months (48) until I get to a break-even point based on the model/miles driven per KBB. It sucks to not be able to enjoy the car. If I could go back in time to Saturday before visiting there I would. I'm getting a promotion in the next few weeks and even the additional income which is a decent raise is barely getting me to break even. I really bit off more than I could chew. I can handle it, I'm just terrified of the contingencies that could arise.

Anybody want to buy my Base Stinger for $39K? j/k (well not really, but you get the point). If anyone has any suggestions to make me feel better, by all means let hear them.

 

[Dahs]

Hi all, I recently purchased a Stinger Base 2.0 and am pretty sure I got screwed, so posting the details in case this helps anyone. I embarrassed that I'm probably a case study for how NOT to buy a Stinger. But if it helps

I had been looking to trade my wimpy Nissan for the Stinger Base (or an Optima), but was still underwater going back a few cars because at the time I did a trade-in with a car I had driven/paid off for years I didn't have any other credit history (which had always been stellar) and got slammed with a cruddy interest rate. Fixed that a year later, but I've basically been chasing that interest.

Went to Jenkins KIA in Ocala to get some info on the Stinger and possibly drive, but you know how most dealers act where they want your keys to value your potential trade and then it's a fight to get those keys back before making a deal.

Well I made a deal that seemed good. I owed just under $15K on my Nissan (underwater by about $7K) and they were going to offer me $12K with a $3K down payment that would basically eliminate chasing that horses tail (or so I thought) Still I was curious as to what the payment structure would be $597/84. Unfortunately, I am not a lease candidate because I live in Ocala but work in Gainesville so I'm commuting about 90 miles a day.

So these are my finance numbers for a MICRO BLUE 2.0 BASE. Pretty sure I f***ed up. Don't let what happened to me happen to you:
Line 1 Cash Price Amount Financed: $42,250.10 (why is this so high? Why was this car priced at $38,000 when online at $34,235?
Gross Trade in Allowance $9,600 (huh, what happened to the $12K I was told?)
Less Pay Off: $5,419.11
Down Payment: $3,000
Consumer Rebate: $6150
Total Down Payment: $3,730.89
Unpaid Balance: $38,519.21
GAP (Required for me): $850
Taxes/Doc Stamps: $451.99
License Fee: $163.35
Car Care: $1,500 (I usually get due to the amount of miles per year I put on my vehicles- can this be canceled?)
Extended Warranty: $2,693 (I usually get because of the miles I put on my vehicles - can this be canceled?)
Road Hazard: $721
Amount Financed: $44,898.55. Seems incredibly high for a BASE considering I thought the negative equity would be offset by the rebates.

Finance had 2.9% 625/84, but I didn't really want to make payments that long and wanted to try to get to a break even point sooner. So I went with a 4.9% 776/66 that appears will get me break even in 4 years, but Holy @#$ that's almost twice my previous car payment.

It's not that I couldn't afford that price, I just felt guilty that I splurged on myself when I should have just gotten a Forte or even an Optima but Jenkins seems to be a prime dealer for marking Invoice several thousand above MSRP. Pretty surprising because when I bought my Sentra from them at their Lakeland Nissan dealership they seem pretty fair on price (but cruddy on trade-in values).

So the deal was done Sunday. Fast forward a couple days and that "Buyer's Remorse" feeling that usually goes away after 24 hours or so just kept lingering. I kept questioning why I had paid so much to drive this car when I know there were supposedly better deals online. I felt defeated and depressed. The car is absolute thrill to drive, but for some reason I just wasn't feeling as happy as I thought. I pretty much stayed in ECO mode the last two days driving to work. MPG was pretty good at 32.4, looks like 420 miles or so to a tank, about 30 miles more than my Sentra, so not bad.

Jenkins called me today to "check up" on me and I pretty much told them the truth that I had thought I had made a grave mistake and had felt great remorse over the deal. Now I understand there's no "cool-off" law regarding car buying, but I did hope that perhaps it was still within 10 days that the dealer could ax the contract if they could get me in a lesser car where they'd still make a good amount of interest or I could just do an immediate trade in where I could get back to a payment of around $400-$500. Hell, they even had the exact same Stinger in the used lot with only 9K miles for around $27K which seems like that would have been a much better deal. Neither was a no-go. Got told I could only do an immediate trade-in if I brought a massive amount of cash as a down payment (like $10K) to the table. Was told "the banks find that strange" (seems to be an issue that I purchased/financed a Soul as a gift to my mom last Christmas (she didn't have good credit), and I would have to wait at least a year which we all know 33% dep and very, very underwater to where it makes no sense. Now I know depreciation starts the minute you drive off the lot, but seriously my car has 230 miles on it. Even if you wanna ding me the $5-6K depreciation, put me in a Rio, Forte, or Soul and I'm back to where I should have been on Saturday. But nope. Then I asked about just selling the car back to them but of course that too would require a massive cash payment to cover whatever excess was left on the loan (seems like they would have paid only $20K). I looked at the extended warranty and car care/road hazards to see if it would make sense to cancel those to reduce the time to payoff the loan to 51 months and wanted to speak to a manager but was told they were "tied up". Defeated, I left, but I will not do business with these people again. I get the law is on their side but it's funny that the same day I get a letter in the mail from the dealer purporting to care how I feel about the post-buying experience and to share any concerns with them, I was basically told to buzz off that there was nothing they (w)could do.

That being said, I love my Stinger, I just feel this car isn't a fit for me like i was hoping it would be. I'll make the payments diligently, I just feel like I have been ripped off and am counting the months (48) until I get to a break-even point based on the model/miles driven per KBB. It sucks to not be able to enjoy the car. If I could go back in time to Saturday before visiting there I would. I'm getting a promotion in the next few weeks and even the additional income which is a decent raise is barely getting me to break even. I really bit off more than I could chew. I can handle it, I'm just terrified of the contingencies that could arise.

Anybody want to buy my Base Stinger for $39K? j/k (well not really, but you get the point). If anyone has any suggestions to make me feel better, by all means let hear them.

You gotta quit making such rash decisions. If you felt like you got screwed by the dealer, then it wouldn't make any sense to go back to them and think you can do an immediate trade-in without getting fleeced further. You can probably cancel the warranties, but you're going to have to read some fine print and see what it says. Not sure what else you can do to get out of it but at least get some numbers first and come back to here or wherever like reddit to see if the numbers actually make sense before making such a big decision.

 

[Konstantin]

Just updates maps software

 

[Kgh31386]

Got a new 2019 GT2 RWD yesterday for $39,100+TTL.

 

[Lawrence Williams]

Got a new 2019 GT2 RWD yesterday for $39,100+TTL.

In Dallas, Tx.....what dealership?

 

[flycaster]

I'm looking for a reliable car leasing broker. I live in southeast FL, but broker doesn't necessarily hare to be in this area. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Bigbikes]

Dealer rang me today telling car at customs...should be picking it up on 13th june...ready to go. I hope its fine weather
Got rims new rims in garage just gotta paint them..

 

[19GT-AWD]

Financing. They said I could opt for the 0% down or 2500 off, but not both. I thought that was strange.

That's correct. I skipped on one of the rebates in exchange for lower KMF financing.

I'm not too familiar with the lease sales they are doing right now. I know there are some savings to be had but I just went with the conventional purchase.

Larger lease discounts come with the penalty of confining payments to a short period of time, making them unrealistic for most people. I saved $150 on monthly payments by not taking the 6k/2 year lease.

 

[Stinger Girl]

Hi all, I recently purchased a Stinger Base 2.0 and am pretty sure I got screwed, so posting the details in case this helps anyone. I embarrassed that I'm probably a case study for how NOT to buy a Stinger. But if it helps

I had been looking to trade my wimpy Nissan for the Stinger Base (or an Optima), but was still underwater going back a few cars because at the time I did a trade-in with a car I had driven/paid off for years I didn't have any other credit history (which had always been stellar) and got slammed with a cruddy interest rate. Fixed that a year later, but I've basically been chasing that interest.

Went to Jenkins KIA in Ocala to get some info on the Stinger and possibly drive, but you know how most dealers act where they want your keys to value your potential trade and then it's a fight to get those keys back before making a deal.

Well I made a deal that seemed good. I owed just under $15K on my Nissan (underwater by about $7K) and they were going to offer me $12K with a $3K down payment that would basically eliminate chasing that horses tail (or so I thought) Still I was curious as to what the payment structure would be $597/84. Unfortunately, I am not a lease candidate because I live in Ocala but work in Gainesville so I'm commuting about 90 miles a day.

So these are my finance numbers for a MICRO BLUE 2.0 BASE. Pretty sure I f***ed up. Don't let what happened to me happen to you:
Line 1 Cash Price Amount Financed: $42,250.10 (why is this so high? Why was this car priced at $38,000 when online at $34,235?
Gross Trade in Allowance $9,600 (huh, what happened to the $12K I was told?)
Less Pay Off: $5,419.11
Down Payment: $3,000
Consumer Rebate: $6150
Total Down Payment: $3,730.89
Unpaid Balance: $38,519.21
GAP (Required for me): $850
Taxes/Doc Stamps: $451.99
License Fee: $163.35
Car Care: $1,500 (I usually get due to the amount of miles per year I put on my vehicles- can this be canceled?)
Extended Warranty: $2,693 (I usually get because of the miles I put on my vehicles - can this be canceled?)
Road Hazard: $721
Amount Financed: $44,898.55. Seems incredibly high for a BASE considering I thought the negative equity would be offset by the rebates.

Finance had 2.9% 625/84, but I didn't really want to make payments that long and wanted to try to get to a break even point sooner. So I went with a 4.9% 776/66 that appears will get me break even in 4 years, but Holy @#$ that's almost twice my previous car payment.

It's not that I couldn't afford that price, I just felt guilty that I splurged on myself when I should have just gotten a Forte or even an Optima but Jenkins seems to be a prime dealer for marking Invoice several thousand above MSRP. Pretty surprising because when I bought my Sentra from them at their Lakeland Nissan dealership they seem pretty fair on price (but cruddy on trade-in values).

So the deal was done Sunday. Fast forward a couple days and that "Buyer's Remorse" feeling that usually goes away after 24 hours or so just kept lingering. I kept questioning why I had paid so much to drive this car when I know there were supposedly better deals online. I felt defeated and depressed. The car is absolute thrill to drive, but for some reason I just wasn't feeling as happy as I thought. I pretty much stayed in ECO mode the last two days driving to work. MPG was pretty good at 32.4, looks like 420 miles or so to a tank, about 30 miles more than my Sentra, so not bad.

Jenkins called me today to "check up" on me and I pretty much told them the truth that I had thought I had made a grave mistake and had felt great remorse over the deal. Now I understand there's no "cool-off" law regarding car buying, but I did hope that perhaps it was still within 10 days that the dealer could ax the contract if they could get me in a lesser car where they'd still make a good amount of interest or I could just do an immediate trade in where I could get back to a payment of around $400-$500. Hell, they even had the exact same Stinger in the used lot with only 9K miles for around $27K which seems like that would have been a much better deal. Neither was a no-go. Got told I could only do an immediate trade-in if I brought a massive amount of cash as a down payment (like $10K) to the table. Was told "the banks find that strange" (seems to be an issue that I purchased/financed a Soul as a gift to my mom last Christmas (she didn't have good credit), and I would have to wait at least a year which we all know 33% dep and very, very underwater to where it makes no sense. Now I know depreciation starts the minute you drive off the lot, but seriously my car has 230 miles on it. Even if you wanna ding me the $5-6K depreciation, put me in a Rio, Forte, or Soul and I'm back to where I should have been on Saturday. But nope. Then I asked about just selling the car back to them but of course that too would require a massive cash payment to cover whatever excess was left on the loan (seems like they would have paid only $20K). I looked at the extended warranty and car care/road hazards to see if it would make sense to cancel those to reduce the time to payoff the loan to 51 months and wanted to speak to a manager but was told they were "tied up". Defeated, I left, but I will not do business with these people again. I get the law is on their side but it's funny that the same day I get a letter in the mail from the dealer purporting to care how I feel about the post-buying experience and to share any concerns with them, I was basically told to buzz off that there was nothing they (w)could do.

That being said, I love my Stinger, I just feel this car isn't a fit for me like i was hoping it would be. I'll make the payments diligently, I just feel like I have been ripped off and am counting the months (48) until I get to a break-even point based on the model/miles driven per KBB. It sucks to not be able to enjoy the car. If I could go back in time to Saturday before visiting there I would. I'm getting a promotion in the next few weeks and even the additional income which is a decent raise is barely getting me to break even. I really bit off more than I could chew. I can handle it, I'm just terrified of the contingencies that could arise.

Anybody want to buy my Base Stinger for $39K? j/k (well not really, but you get the point). If anyone has any suggestions to make me feel better, by all means let hear them.

Ok, a little late here reading this, but....I'm sifting out 2 numbers: $38,519.21 unpaid balance + $3,730.89 total down payment = $42,250.01 and THAT is what you ultimately paid for the car itself. Which seems really high for a Base but you have to factor in you were under water $7K on your previous car and are now out of that sh*thole. That $7K had to come from somewhere, so what you paid is not the end of the world. Forget tax, title, license fee - you have to pay that no matter what.

So yes, we can lecture you on the car care, extended warranty, and road hazard. The way I see it is that the price you paid for the car is not really an issue, the issue is knowing when to stop and not adding all the crap. Cancel what you can and look forward, lesson learned.

The only thing I would be diligent about is throwing as much money at that loan as you can to get the break even point shorter. But having said that, in a way it doesn't really matter if you're keeping the car long term, as the only time it will bite you is if you try and sell it and bail out of the loan. Gap insurance will prevent a lower insurance payment than what you owe if it gets totaled or stolen.

So not the end of the world!! Enjoy it!

 

[Kinvara8017]

Kia stinger engine porn

Engine build is almost done, but here's some engine bay porn for yall... getting the turbos bored and catch cans next week, then on to the aesthetics of the car

 

[Lawrence Williams]

Kia stinger engine porn

Engine build is almost done, but here's some engine bay porn for yall... getting the turbos bored and catch cans next week, then on to the aesthetics of the car

Is that torched or paint?

 

[Ruturaj]

Larger lease discounts come with the penalty of confining payments to a short period of time, making them unrealistic for most people. I saved $150 on monthly payments by not taking the 6k/2 year lease.

You can refinance the car and pocket the lease cash. You get lower payments and savings.

 

[C-Hatt]

Hey Guys, if this is already a sticky somewhere else, let me know. I’m intrigued by the lease offer because the payments fit my budget better, but I’m going to Drive more than the 45k over the 3 years. Can someone explain how the lease buyout works? It sounds like that makes sense, but I’ve never leased and I’m a little unsure. I’m also trying to convince my wife that I’m not throwing money away with the mileage overage.

 

[Ruturaj]

Hey Guys, if this is already a sticky somewhere else, let me know. I’m intrigued by the lease offer because the payments fit my budget better, but I’m going to Drive more than the 45k over the 3 years. Can someone explain how the lease buyout works? It sounds like that makes sense, but I’ve never leased and I’m a little unsure. I’m also trying to convince my wife that I’m not throwing money away with the mileage overage.

Get a car on lease, you get the lease cash. Find a bank that will give you loan for buying it out.

 

[C-Hatt]

Get a car on lease, you get the lease cash. Find a bank that will give you loan for buying it out.

What amount would you be financing after the buyout?

Also, if leased, I assume you HAVE to get all of the routine maintenance right?

 

[Ruturaj]

What amount would you be financing after the buyout?

Also, if leased, I assume you HAVE to get all of the routine maintenance right?

Negotiated price - lease cash - down payment - trade in + tax and fees applied at lease + buyout fee of 300

If you are in one of these state, AZ, CA, CT, ID, KS, ME, MI, MS, NV, NJ, NY, OH, TN, UT, WA & WI, then also add state tax to it.

You don't have to get routine maintenance package from them if you mean that.