Well I got it and installed it last friday.
I uploaded these pictures to e-trailer, so maybe they'll show up there too.
The install was supposedly a 10 out of 10 or whatever scale they use. It's challenging. The step where you have to put a wire through the frame, thread a plate and bolt onto a coil, then pull it back through went fine. I was worried about that one. No one step in the video was crazy hard in my opinion, but it's very slow, a lot to take off and get at. It was also pretty chilly, I had a space-heater for the garage to help. Only had to go to the parts store once, to get a 10mm ratcheting wrench. For some reason I couldn't find a 10mm open-end even, but I had a variety of ratchets and sockets that worked just fine. It was about an 8 hour install. I had a break for lunch and I just tried to go slow and get it right. I did encounter a few problems on the install. The lower receiver (basically the big bar with the "drawtite" on it) was a little too wide for the mounting plates that install on the car frame. The bolts wouldn't go through. I had to dremel-out the inside of the holes with a grinder and remove some material. Also the rack exhaust-cut-out ends up very close to the exhaust, a sharp point. In looking at the video, it's obvious that while almost everything is mechanically the same on the 2022, the exhaust tips are different. This probably accounts for the difference and why I had to remove some material. This is something I'd file down ahead of time if doing it again. As it stands I removed some material, put some cushioning tape in (not seen). I'll be monitoring. The exhaust doesn't move much, but without removing material it was basically like 1-2mm away, super close and I could easily move it to make it bang against, thinking that centrifugal force in turns would probably do it. When I was removing the rear fascia, I also had to remove my mud-guards, so that caused some extra time, especially to put them back on, I had to take the wheels off. I have experience removing facia and had to do something real similar on my BMW to install a rack on it, so this wasn't all completely foreign to me. I also found that it was easier to just reach and disconnect the backup and bumper sensors rather than try to remove the plastic rivets holding the cables to the car-frame. I tried disconnecting them like in the video when it came time to re-connect the fascia, but I couldn't reconnect all of them after plugging in the sensors. I was able to reach up from under the car with the facia on and push them all back in though. When cutting the facia according to the template, I'd go maybe 4.25" up at least, the template calls for 4", but that was on the older non-diffuser facia, so this may be hanging down a little more. If you go just a little wider on the sides too, like an extra .25 each side, you'll have a little more room to straighten the rack (aligning it is one of the steps, but it also doesn't matter a whole lot as far as function). Didn't have to cut the heat-shield nearly as much as they did in the video, this was something that was fairly apparent even in the video, but I thought I'd check when it came time to doing it. Yep, I was able to retain all 6 fastener mounts and cut out significantly less than they did in the video.
Was able to do it on ramps. Was going to try and put the car on jack-stands on the rear by doing the jack-up-a-wheel trick, but that doesn't really work great, since the wheel just goes up into the well and compresses the spring, rather than lifts the car, so it's likely you'll max out the jack before you get it high enough to put some stands in. Ramps worked fine though, no issues with space. You need a deep 19mm/ 3/4" and a deep 17mm doesn't hurt either, since tightening these nuts down exposes a significant amount of bolt threads. A variety of socket extensions is nice to have, as well as a few different ratchets, like a small one for 10mm nuts/bolts and a larger one for big torque stuff. A universal joint too, the rear most upper-brace bolt (picture with the dremel arrows, bolt is visible just above the flat section) is tucked up there pretty good and you need something that will tighten at an angle to get it.
This was easier than installing those goddam swaybars, but a lot longer too.
I have a T2 rack and it works pretty well, except the "safety hook" loops on this rack are a bit annoying, they don't give you much room to tighten a rack-bolt. I could probably saw them off, definitely not necessary for a bike-rack receiver. My other car's receiver doesn't have this, it's intended for bike-racks only. Still, this works, it holds a rack just fine. I have my T2 tray (one) positioned in about the middle of the rack, but if I had two trays on, I'd be able to use the rear-most one and open the hatch all the way. As it stands, my 810mm+end-caps handlebar just ever so barely touches the hatch opening or closing, I should be able to bump the tray back just a little and it'll be totally free.
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