What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

For those sanding out road rash on their alloy wheels, after the final polish of the affected area put some clear coat back on it - you can buy rattle cans of clear coat at any automotive supply store.

Beside putting some gloss back, you don't want moisture and contaminants getting under the remaining clearcoat via the now exposed edges. That can get really ugly once it starts to blister and peel, and if left long enough the alloy itself can start to pit and oxidize - especially if you are in an area using road salt. :thumbdown:
 
SteveCo said:
For those sanding out road rash on their alloy wheels, after the final polish of the affected area put some clear coat back on it - you can buy rattle cans of clear coat at any automotive supply store.

Beside putting some gloss back, you don't want moisture and contaminants getting under the remaining clearcoat via the now exposed edges. That can get really ugly once it starts to blister and peel, and if left long enough the alloy itself can start to pit and oxidize - especially if you are in an area using road salt. :thumbdown:
Click to expand...
Batcall out to Merlin in 3...2...1...
 
SteveCo said:
For those sanding out road rash on their alloy wheels, after the final polish of the affected area put some clear coat back on it - you can buy rattle cans of clear coat at any automotive supply store.

Beside putting some gloss back, you don't want moisture and contaminants getting under the remaining clearcoat via the now exposed edges. That can get really ugly once it starts to blister and peel, and if left long enough the alloy itself can start to pit and oxidize - especially if you are in an area using road salt. :thumbdown:
Click to expand...

nhcowboy28 said:
Batcall out to Merlin in 3...2...1...
Click to expand...
LOL! My answer:

Absolutely right. I wasn't looking at my "fixes" with sandpaper as a permanent solution. Even though I've gone through most of a first winter without clear coating the aggrieved areas (and the sanded parts have looked pretty good throughout), I was considering options to permanently address the problem. When the dweeb at the car wash drove my car in wrong (rim against the guide rail) and rashed my LR rim all the way around, I realized that the time had come to find a different way to live with rashed rims. There is no way that I would sit there and sand down the rim all the way around; then have c. 3" of spokes to clean up on top of that. "Inconceivable!" :rolleyes:

So in a few days my OEM rims will be powder coated glossy black. This isn't intended or expected to make them tougher. What glossy black will achieve is the ability to apply glossy black touch up paint easily to the chips and scrapes, etc. If a rim gets the "treatment" of the massive defacing damage I suffered last week, I'll get that rim redone. But for 99% of road debris incidents; or even God forbid, I curb rash a rim aaagain somehow, I can apply the Sharpie till I can apply the paint. I'd much rather wield a paint brush than sandpaper any day.

Meanwhile, I'll be riding with my brand new TSW "Watkins" rims (also in glossy black face), on my Michelins (gingerly, praying for no inclement weather!), until the powder coating is done and I can put my A/S back on to finish out the winter.

(OEM Wheel Weight! The Watkins weigh 22 lbs. The OEM GT rims weigh 35 lbs in the front and 33 lbs in the back. So there is no question which set of rims are for my summer shoes: this despite the hugely greater cost of a replacement OEM rim, $630 apiece, the Kia service guy said. I was, and am, shocked. With the added $100 per wheel for powder coating, they are almost twice as expensive as the Watkins. But they get used in the winter anyway. There is no way that I am putting summer tires on rims that weigh over 10 lbs more. That would be daft.)
 
All the mods and upgrades for your Stinger you could ever ask for. CLICK HERE!
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
A20AE59F-0B43-4674-B29C-4B69D20A3CDB.webp Didn’t do anything yet but I did get my plugs and Stinger script today. Just waiting on my front badge and wheel caps. I love my new 3.3 but it sucks having to do all this stuff over again. Issues when your on your second Stinger.
 
Hemz said:
N

It too much stinger in view from the rear now? How much?
Click to expand...
G'day mate! I'm cheap... it cost me 12 USD on Amazon. The more Stinger the better right?:D
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Bryan2.0 said:
I did the same thing on my first Stinger. I may just pay to have it done this time.
Click to expand...
yeah that's a smart choice... imho i don't think it should cost you more than $30-40 to get it done.
 
All the mods and upgrades for your Stinger you could ever ask for. CLICK HERE!
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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DSC07702.webp
They're on! :D More pics here: Aftermarket Wheels

The OEM GT rims were designed to make all the colors the Stinger comes in look good. They were very, very pretty rims on my Silky Silver. But, Double Black makes the Silky Silver look dramatic. :D
 
@Bernie Fen @Bryan2.0 I had it done professionally, cost 100€ (frront+rear) and they f*cked up my paint in the front too.
 
All the mods and upgrades for your Stinger you could ever ask for. CLICK HERE!
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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