What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

[Jacques]

I wouldn’t drop more than 20mm due to this, but with mild drops it’s easily manageable, just don’t take grade changes straight on, take them at an angle, even if it means one wheel hangs in the air momentarily. You also do it real slow so the suspension never compressed and further reduces height. Never go in a place you arent sure you can get out of. Park away if you have to.

I did happen to go in an angle, but I didn't take it sharp enough both when I went down (scraped), then went back up the other lot (crack!). I'm a dummy for not thinking of all the variables at that moment. I should've known this since I have a lowered/modded Honda Prelude as my other car. Though unlike the Stinger, the Prelude has an extremely stiff suspension (aftermarket front/rear upper strut bars, adjustable rear sway bar) and coilover setup, dialed in for autocross and road courses. It doesn't compress much when the struts in all 4 corners are custom valved at 1200lbs, and the coilover springs are at 700lbs a corner. 3-wheeling it even in my driveway is a common occurence.

 

[ChaneRZ]

My 5th gen Prelude had Tein coil over suspension and a Jackson Racing Supercharger. I miss that car!

 

[NS_Stinger]

Prior 5th gen Prelude owner here too. Had quite a few mods and always wanted the jackson supercharger kit but never got around to it. I miss that car too, they were great cars. The H22A vtech crossover was so much fun in those cars.

 

[MerlintheMad]

just don’t take grade changes straight on

Lol I saw a BMW zigzagging across a speed bump the other day, but clearly he is still getting used to this handicap of being lowered: his LR fender cover was flapping in the wind, no doubt from hooking the forward corner on something.

 

[RM7]

Lol I saw a BMW zigzagging across a speed bump the other day, but clearly he is still getting used to this handicap of being lowered: his LR fender cover was flapping in the wind, no doubt from hooking the forward corner on something.

There was a corvette z06 at Autocross this weekend scraping the air damn on every turn, but he said he knew about it and it was just a $40 part. My 1LE is not high, but higher than that. They are doing construction work with temporary gravel roads near where I live and I’ve had to complain to the city multiple times to get them to shallow out the angles and fill the holes. Cars can be low….and then they can be stupid low where the suspension is no longer functional. I like functional.

 

[RogueIV]

Oh it will do something. Throttle response is very snappy!

Maybe I should have worded that better. I'm not sure I'll like what it does. I'm a bit mixed with it so far. I'd prefer the pedal to just be more linear. Still playing with settings though.

 

[StingertimeNC]

Maybe I should have worded that better. I'm not sure I'll like what it does. I'm a bit mixed with it so far. I'd prefer the pedal to just be more linear. Still playing with settings though.

I have mine set on green minus 3. basically as light as possible, and it's still crazy snappy. Although I always drive in sport mode. It's hard to modulate at times no doubt. in comfort, even with it on red, the car shifts up to the highest gear and you still have to push the pedal down too far to get it to downshift...IMO. I like it except if I'm launching (RWD.) Like if I'm trying to do a 1/8 or 1/4 mile run or something. Hard to modulate a little. I just turn it off in that case.

 

[Jacques]

@NS_Stinger and @ChaneRZ - I've kept mine for sentimental value, and these days, one of the few analog-ish cars of that era left. I had a chance to get a JRSC, but ended passing on it. It may not be as fast as a Stinger, heck, even many of today's sedans, but it holds its own on twisty roads, roadcourses, and at autocross events. I won my classes in the SCCA region a few times (STX, then later DSP), took it to Solo Tours and Nationals even. Below is how it looks with magnetic race livery and race wheels and tires at Nationals...my wife behind the wheel here.

 

[RogueIV]

@NS_Stinger and @ChaneRZ - I've kept mine for sentimental value, and these days, one of the few analog-ish cars of that era left. I had a chance to get a JRSC, but ended passing on it. It may not be as fast as a Stinger, heck, even many of today's sedans, but it holds its own on twisty roads, roadcourses, and at autocross events. I won my classes in the SCCA region a few times (STX, then later DSP), took it to Solo Tours and Nationals even. Below is how it looks with magnetic race livery and race wheels and tires at Nationals...my wife behind the wheel here.
View attachment 60892

Are those wheels Regamasters? Haven't seen a set of those in a while.

 

[Jacques]

Are those wheels Regamasters? Haven't seen a set of those in a while.

I wish! Or even Spoon wheels! But no, they are (or should I say, were as I sold them long ago) Rota Slipstreams in 15". They were around 13lbs/wheel. I don't believe Rota makes them anymore. Speaking of wheels they don't make anymore, my street wheels are RH Evo CP-35s. It came with stickers that I put on the wheels. But I lost those stickers somewhere along the way, so these will remain clean.At least they're old school and light (16lbs/wheel for 17").

 

[Jacques]

OK, so to avoid complaints that I've derailed this thread with my Prelude convos, I ran afoul of a fowl...a guineafowl that is. I was checking on my sister's garden and farm animals.

Bonus, first pic of my JA LIT2's post-install.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I wish! Or even Spoon wheels! But no, they are (or should I say, were as I sold them long ago) Rota Slipstreams in 15". They were around 13lbs/wheel. I don't believe Rota makes them anymore. View attachment 60900Speaking of wheels they don't make anymore, my street wheels are RH Evo CP-35s. It came with stickers that I put on the wheels. But I lost those stickers somewhere along the way, so these will remain clean.At least they're old school and light (16lbs/wheel for 17").

Nice, they're similar to the RPF1's I had on mine which were also very lightweight. Here's a pic of my old car, definitely my next favourite car to the Stinger.

 

[Timothy1_17]

A couple of months back, I cracked my front lip (Maxton V1) while going down, then up two parking lots with varying inclines. I'm at stock height. After that episode, and after getting a replacement lip, I'm just going to stay stock height, or I get coilovers one day to adjust up/down (manually, unfortunately) where I need.

This is what has kept me from purchasing a front lip/splitter/winglets. I like the look of some, but living in NE Ohio, I worry about the snow in the winter, the potholes all over and steep driveways/ramps/garages. Hope you have better luck with this one.

 

[Timothy1_17]

I've been messing around with my exhaust lately, and came up with a customized setup. Started with the MF cat-back system then had the mufflers & resonators cut out in exchange for Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonators. Sounded better, but drone was present, so I did some research on J-
Pipes/helmholtz resonators. Found the formula to remove/reduce drone at most frequencies, and works on custom setups.

My local fabricator/performance shop (shoutout to Devon Green) installed/fabricated the Vibrant resonator, piping, then J-Pipe most recently. The drone has easily been reduce by over 90%, driving around town and on the highway (where it was the worst around 80MPH / 2K RPM). It's crazy only hearing the exhaust tone and almost no drone. Now with it being a little more quiet, and almost no drone, has me thinking of putting the Ark secondary downpipes back on, but I'm gonna give it a few weeks or more for this stainless steel to break in.

I know I should've gone custom in the first place (would has saved some $$), but it is what it is.

To find out the J-Pipe length, I used the formula: (speed of sound ÷ drone frequency) / 4 x 12. I calculated it with the exhaust gases temp around 350F (drone was worse when gases were hot), so the SoS was 1395 ft/s. My drone was around 120Hz (used an app on iPhone). Putting that in the formula gave the number of 34.875", the length for the J-Pipe. I believe our J-Pipe ended up being closer to 36" when said and done.

Hope this helps anyone with drone issues who is looking for a solution.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I've been messing around with my exhaust lately, and came up with a customized setup. Started with the MF cat-back system then had the mufflers & resonators cut out in exchange for Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonators. Sounded better, but drone was present, so I did some research on J-
Pipes/helmholtz resonators. Found the formula to remove/reduce drone at most frequencies, and works on custom setups.

My local fabricator/performance shop (shoutout to Devon Green) installed/fabricated the Vibrant resonator, piping, then J-Pipe most recently. The drone has easily been reduce by over 90%, driving around town and on the highway (where it was the worst around 80MPH / 2K RPM). It's crazy only hearing the exhaust tone and almost no drone. Now with it being a little more quiet, and almost no drone, has me thinking of putting the Ark secondary downpipes back on, but I'm gonna give it a few weeks or more for this stainless steel to break in.

I know I should've gone custom in the first place (would has saved some $$), but it is what it is.

To find out the J-Pipe length, I used the formula: (speed of sound ÷ drone frequency) / 4 x 12. I calculated it with the exhaust gases temp around 350F (drone was worse when gases were hot), so the SoS was 1395 ft/s. My drone was around 120Hz (used an app on iPhone). Putting that in the formula gave the number of 34.875", the length for the J-Pipe. I believe our J-Pipe ended up being closer to 36" when said and done.

Hope this helps anyone with drone issues who is looking for a solution.
View attachment 60915View attachment 60916

Just don't bang down over any curbs or speed bumps: you'll lose those "J"s for sure. How do I know? My battery box got thumped by my dropping too straight off of a slanted curb into the gutter: took the smaller vent cap right off and pushed the larger one up inside the box (some of you may recall this topic as I raised it a couple of years ago). For that matter, your entire customized exhaust setup is in jeopardy, now that I look at it: it all situates below the battery box. Here's what mine looked like right after the damage:

And your pipes are right there, below the box. Danger, Will Robinson!

 

[Jacques]

@Timothy1_17 - looks good! Have a video or sound byte of how it sounds now? Both idle and driving/revving?
@MerlintheMad - I remember that incident with yours, and I even shared a pic of mine, undamaged thankfully and cap still there. Did you fix that one?

 

[MerlintheMad]

Did you fix that one?

 

[Timothy1_17]

Just don't bang down over any curbs or speed bumps: you'll lose those "J"s for sure. How do I know? My battery box got thumped by my dropping too straight off of a slanted curb into the gutter: took the smaller vent cap right off and pushed the larger one up inside the box (some of you may recall this topic as I raised it a couple of years ago). For that matter, your entire customized exhaust setup is in jeopardy, now that I look at it: it all situates below the battery box. Here's what mine looked like right after the damage:
View attachment 60917
And your pipes are right there, below the box. Danger, Will Robinson!

Oh damn, you hit the battery box at stock height?!

Never went over any curbs with a car, just my GMC Canyon. I appreciate you watching out, I will be keeping a close eye on it for sure. I may have to do some modifications if I have any close calls.


5 inches of clearance at its lowest point.


Shot from underneath the driver door looking back.


About 6 inches of clearance up front. But I know 1 inch can be the difference of being clear, a scrape, or knocking something off.


Shot from the front end looking back.

@Timothy1_17 - looks good! Have a video or sound byte of how it sounds now? Both idle and driving/revving?
@MerlintheMad - I remember that incident with yours, and I even shared a pic of mine, undamaged thankfully and cap still there. Did you fix that one?

Thanks, man. I don't at the moment, but I will try to get some this weekend.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Oh damn, you hit the battery box at stock height?!

Never went over any curbs with a car, just my GMC Canyon. I appreciate you watching out, I will be keeping a close eye on it for sure. I may have to do some modifications if I have any close calls.

View attachment 60930
5 inches of clearance at its lowest point.

View attachment 60931
Shot from underneath the driver door looking back.

View attachment 60932
About 6 inches of clearance up front. But I know 1 inch can be the difference of being clear, a scrape, or knocking something off.

View attachment 60933
Shot from the front end looking back.


Thanks, man. I don't at the moment, but I will try to get some this weekend.

Yes, sir, stock height. I went vigorously across the slanted curb, down into the gutter and the car no doubt dropped a couple of inches below stock height. Once I realized what had happened to bang my battery box and knock out the drain/vent plugs, I never went straight out of a parking lot again: and always slant across at slow speed now. Your clearance looks good enough, if you make sure you do that: go slow and at an acute angle.

(those sure are pretty pipes!)

 

[fc528e]

Cleaned and conditioned my seats/all leather. Gets me every time how good looking the red leather is after a good conditioning.