Drag/Acceleration Weight of the worlds fastest Stinger....

[TorkMe]

Lol is this kintergarden?

Sorry, but I cannot take his lies anymore and I would have been banned because of what I would have said. I hate it when people, especially vendors in this community take advantage of its members due to the knowledge base they have.

 

[Sales@Tork]

Lol is this kintergarden?

*Kindergarten

 

[xot1]

Sorry, but I cannot take his lies anymore and I would have been banned because of what I would have said. I hate it when people, especially vendors in this community take advantage of its members due to the knowledge base they have.

What advantage would he be taking of? There's a huge gap between saying something that isn't true or that all people do not agree on, and saying lies on purpose to manipulate the crowd. I think you see too much evil.

 

[Get Stung]

It's just John being, well... John
He doesn't want to be here but someone asked him to _ o _ ka so here he is doing what he really doesn't want to do. Insert tears. But it's his duty to step in and save us all. Same shit, same John diff thread

 

[TorkMe]

What advantage would he be taking of? There's a huge gap between saying something that isn't true or that all people do not agree on, and saying lies on purpose to manipulate the crowd. I think you see too much evil.

Um did you see my maps that I posted, a 100% contradiction to Terry saying that there are no boost tables in the ECU and its all load based?

Or, was my post to much for you to comprehend?

 

[Angel]

This just got very awkward and weird. I will remain out of this one. I am cringing right now.

 

[TorkMe]

It's just John being, well... John
He doesn't want to be here but someone asked him to _ o _ ka so here he is doing what he really doesn't want to do. Insert tears. But it's his duty to step in and save us all. Same shit, same John diff thread

Yep, because people keep buying into the garbage that the JB4 is, and when someone who understands the ECU, posts map, explains ect. Its just him being him, lol. And people wonder why COBB or Diablo, or any big names refuse to deal with the Stinger market.... you don't want a real tune.

See, if people really wanted information and asked for it, there is a very good possibility that you guys would be faster in the 1/4 mile. But... Terry is trying to find the next wire inside the system he can spoof to get the car down the track faster, lol. This is not how you tune, and you damn well know it, just because its me, you have to dismiss what I say. Go figure

Before anyone claims any bullshit about me crying or anything else childish, lets take a quick look at who it posting facts and actual maps of the ECU. Let see who is giving you guy the actual operation of the ECU, not... "well this is how BMW does it". Are you not tired of that line of BS by now?

At this point, the forums and the social media groups have become a disappointment. I was half expecting to see someone running faster than us, yet... nothing. My car should be back end of this week, and we will start working on that new top spot with methanol.

 

[Terry@BMS]

lol dealing with John is a lot like dealing with a kindergartner.

I never said there isn't such a thing as a boost set point within the ECU. That would be ridiculous. I said the torque set point is converted to a load set point that is converted to a boost set point for the wastegate PID to target. The conversion is all done through various conversion tables.

Big picture the basic concept behind a load targeting system is to keep power consistent regardless of the running conditions and almost all modern ECU's since around 2006 (around when everyone also started running wideband o2 sensors closed loop) run similar load targeting schemes. It's nothing new or even controversial. Surprised it's news to John. Maybe I'm not.

JB4 owners equipped with the IAT wire can experience the range of the system first hand by logging with IAT falsely really low and falsely really high on a zero additive map to evaluate the boost difference.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Not really that important but Stungbluegt2 is trying to claim tune superiority since JB4 runs lower boost which isn't the case. That's all.

That statement is incorrect and sorry you feel that way. I know ECU tunes have many advantages over chips and I am NOT trying to claim tune superiority. I respect everything Tork has done and have been following & giving him props on his development for years.

I was simply trying to help you see that the extra 3-4psi you are running is not helping, and actually shows that its hurting your top end HP. I was just using the top Stingers in the “official 1/4m” thread to make comparisons to your trap speeds which relates to HP. It just happens to be the case that JB4s fill most of the top spots and many show similar ETs, but surprisingly the top few JB4 Stingers actually run up to 3mph faster trap speeds than you. It simply proves that @Terry@BMS statement that almost anything over 18-19psi is basically a waste. Nothing against you or the Tork tune itself...

However your constant arguing that JB4s run over 20psi and anything close to the 23psi you claim is turning into a joke so you forced me to prove you wrong again. I’ll even use your main resource Mr Tork himself. Here is John explaining when he learned that AWD Stingers run 2psi more that RWD Stingers. He explains at 2:15.

As you see he was actually shocked to see the AWD GT2 in the video ran about 14psi, not 12psi like his GT and most Stingers, as I’ve been saying all along...

Again MOST Stingers only run about 12psi and even with a max target of +8psi on WMI map8 they still barely touch 20psi, which is what almost ever log and dyno has shown. You admitted your tune pushes almost 23psi and you even hit that in 1st gear which is insane in my book, especially since stock Stingers DO NOT run 100% boost in 1st gear.

I was simply countering all you rhetoric about how much better your tune is over chips and trying to help you realize the extra 3-4psi is likely working against you. ECU tunes have many advantages, but right now for our Stingers they are a lot more similar then they are different when it comes to performance. Again nothing against you or ECU tunes, I just wanted to keep the facts straight and show you that you might actually be faster without the extra unnecessary boost. Sorry for trying to help and back to our original scheduled programming.

 

[TorkMe]

That statement is incorrect and sorry you feel that way. I know ECU tunes have many advantages over chips and I am NOT trying to claim tune superiority. I respect everything Tork has done and have been following & giving him props on his development for years.

I was simply trying to help you see that the extra 3-4psi you are running is not helping, and actually shows that its hurting your top end HP. I was just using the top Stingers in the “official 1/4m” thread to make comparisons to your trap speeds which relates to HP. It just happens to be the case that JB4s fill most of the top spots and many show similar ETs, but surprisingly the top few JB4 Stingers actually run up to 3mph faster trap speeds than you. It simply proves that @Terry@BMS statement that almost anything over 18-19psi is basically a waste. Nothing against you or the Tork tune itself...

However your constant arguing that JB4s run over 20psi and anything close to the 23psi you claim is turning into a joke so you forced me to prove you wrong again. I’ll even use your main resource Mr Tork himself. Here is John explaining when he learned that AWD Stingers run 2psi more that RWD Stingers. He explains at 2:15.

As you see he was actually shocked to see the AWD GT2 in the video ran about 14psi, not 12psi like his GT and most Stingers, as I’ve been saying all along...

Again MOST Stingers only run about 12psi and even with a max target of +8psi on WMI map8 they still barely touch 20psi, which is what almost ever log and dyno has shown. You admitted your tune pushes almost 23psi and you even hit that in 1st gear which is insane in my book, especially since stock Stingers DO NOT run 100% boost in 1st gear.

I was simply countering all you rhetoric about how much better your tune is over chips and trying to help you realize the extra 3-4psi is likely working against you. ECU tunes have many advantages, but right now for our Stingers they are a lot more similar then they are different when it comes to performance. Again nothing against you or ECU tunes, I just wanted to keep the facts straight and show you that you might actually be faster without the extra unnecessary boost. Sorry for trying to help and back to our original scheduled programming.

I think its safe to say, I have possibly had more Stingers on the dyno than anyone in this group and I have seen stock cars run as high as 16 psi and as low as 12 psi, not logged but actual boost pressure recorded on the dyno sensor.

You don't have any facts, that is the problem... so, everyone is saying that more boost is bad. Do you know why? Because the ECU is mapping the turbine speed and at 20 psi the turbine speed map gets into a different area of limiters. I have been playing with turbo speeds and have started to realize that there is a lot of power still left on the table with the stock turbos. When I have all the turbo speed threasholds mapped, we are going to see the next step in Stinger performance, a step that should honestly stun everyone.

I have logged and shared a little info on this, but have stayed away from the forums and most of the FB media bullshit because I have no time for this anymore. I am in here talking about this, because I have successfully ran 23 lbs of boost, on pump gas with moderate ignition timing, and it was wheel spin city in 3rd gear... yes, 3rd gear wheel spin on the freeway during kickdown and sustained wheel spin all the way through 3rd gear. I posted a few logs of the 22 and 23 lbs of boost held at 6200 RPM (screen shots) to show people that the turbos are not out of air flow, we just need more time to test and verify what we are doing with the car. Had the car not been hit by a drunk driver, we would possibly have a very low 11 second pass to credit right now.

Just to give you an idea of where the car was heading for performance. my 60 to 130 times were sub 8 seconds. I think I still have a 124 MPH trap speed at 13.7 seconds due to wheel spin in my Dragy, but... its unverified due to a 2% grade, lol. I was getting very close to unlocking some of the Stage 2 Tune options we are working just before the car got hit.

So... to say things like at 20 psi and the turbos are done and that running more is hurting TonkaBob's results... is not fact filled, it simply you guessing because your knowledge base on tuning is minimal at best. Until someone really leans on these turbos and pushes them to the fail point, then we will know when we have hit the limits and those limits, will never be achieved with a piggy back.

 

[Angel]

I think its safe to say, I have possibly had more Stingers on the dyno than anyone in this group and I have seen stock cars run as high as 16 psi and as low as 12 psi, not logged but actual boost pressure recorded on the dyno sensor.

You don't have any facts, that is the problem... so, everyone is saying that more boost is bad. Do you know why? Because the ECU is mapping the turbine speed and at 20 psi the turbine speed map gets into a different area of limiters. I have been playing with turbo speeds and have started to realize that there is a lot of power still left on the table with the stock turbos. When I have all the turbo speed threasholds mapped, we are going to see the next step in Stinger performance, a step that should honestly stun everyone.

I have logged and shared a little info on this, but have stayed away from the forums and most of the FB media bullshit because I have no time for this anymore. I am in here talking about this, because I have successfully ran 23 lbs of boost, on pump gas with moderate ignition timing, and it was wheel spin city in 3rd gear... yes, 3rd gear wheel spin on the freeway during kickdown and sustained wheel spin all the way through 3rd gear. I posted a few logs of the 22 and 23 lbs of boost held at 6200 RPM (screen shots) to show people that the turbos are not out of air flow, we just need more time to test and verify what we are doing with the car. Had the car not been hit by a drunk driver, we would possibly have a very low 11 second pass to credit right now.

Just to give you an idea of where the car was heading for performance. my 60 to 130 times were sub 8 seconds. I think I still have a 124 MPH trap speed at 13.7 seconds due to wheel spin in my Dragy, but... its unverified due to a 2% grade, lol. I was getting very close to unlocking some of the Stage 2 Tune options we are working just before the car got hit.

So... to say things like at 20 psi and the turbos are done and that running more is hurting TonkaBob's results... is not fact filled, it simply you guessing because your knowledge base on tuning is minimal at best. Until someone really leans on these turbos and pushes them to the fail point, then we will know when we have hit the limits and those limits, will never be achieved with a piggy back.

I deleted my comment and will replace it with a question relating to the thread.

When will you have stage 2 done? Can you provide a little more info on what stage 2 does? Like raised LC etc....

When will you hit the track now that the car is back?

 

[Kamauxx]

Jiminy Cricket

 

[xot1]

Too much bromance for me..
Let's refocus on the main subject.

Lithium battery => 19kg(42lbs) of weight reduction
Cost => ~$500

Yes or no?

 

[Angel]

Too much bromance for me..
Let's refocus on the main subject.

Lithium battery => 19kg(42lbs) of weight reduction
Cost => ~$500

Yes or no?

Yes lol

Do you know if you will have issues running a lithium battery on the Stinger?

 

[Doel]

I have logged and shared a little info on this, but have stayed away from the forums and most of the FB media bullshit because I have no time for this anymore. I am in here talking about this, because I have successfully ran 23 lbs of boost, on pump gas with moderate ignition timing, and it was wheel spin city in 3rd gear... yes, 3rd gear wheel spin on the freeway during kickdown and sustained wheel spin all the way through 3rd gear. I posted a few logs of the 22 and 23 lbs of boost held at 6200 RPM (screen shots) to show people that the turbos are not out of air flow, we just need more time to test and verify what we are doing with the car. Had the car not been hit by a drunk driver, we would possibly have a very low 11 second pass to credit right now.

Very exciting, can't wait to see what you guys are cooking up! Is your test car AWD or RWD?

 

[Tonkabob]

I think its safe to say, I have possibly had more Stingers on the dyno than anyone in this group and I have seen stock cars run as high as 16 psi and as low as 12 psi, not logged but actual boost pressure recorded on the dyno sensor.

You don't have any facts, that is the problem... so, everyone is saying that more boost is bad. Do you know why? Because the ECU is mapping the turbine speed and at 20 psi the turbine speed map gets into a different area of limiters. I have been playing with turbo speeds and have started to realize that there is a lot of power still left on the table with the stock turbos. When I have all the turbo speed threasholds mapped, we are going to see the next step in Stinger performance, a step that should honestly stun everyone.

I have logged and shared a little info on this, but have stayed away from the forums and most of the FB media bullshit because I have no time for this anymore. I am in here talking about this, because I have successfully ran 23 lbs of boost, on pump gas with moderate ignition timing, and it was wheel spin city in 3rd gear... yes, 3rd gear wheel spin on the freeway during kickdown and sustained wheel spin all the way through 3rd gear. I posted a few logs of the 22 and 23 lbs of boost held at 6200 RPM (screen shots) to show people that the turbos are not out of air flow, we just need more time to test and verify what we are doing with the car. Had the car not been hit by a drunk driver, we would possibly have a very low 11 second pass to credit right now.

Just to give you an idea of where the car was heading for performance. my 60 to 130 times were sub 8 seconds. I think I still have a 124 MPH trap speed at 13.7 seconds due to wheel spin in my Dragy, but... its unverified due to a 2% grade, lol. I was getting very close to unlocking some of the Stage 2 Tune options we are working just before the car got hit.

So... to say things like at 20 psi and the turbos are done and that running more is hurting TonkaBob's results... is not fact filled, it simply you guessing because your knowledge base on tuning is minimal at best. Until someone really leans on these turbos and pushes them to the fail point, then we will know when we have hit the limits and those limits, will never be achieved with a piggy back.

THANK YOU JOHN! I'm starting to see your frustration and for you it has to be 10X.
The 16 psi all though rare would be supported by this table you shared yesterday.
So jb4 +8 potentially 24 psi lol.
You also shared several maps for limits by oil and water temps, all by rpm of course. @TorkMe Any truth to lower stock boost limits in 1st gear? And if true glad they are removed.
If jb4 has boost by gear it should be able to overide this (imaginary?) 1st gear limit as well.

 

[STINGER]

Too much bromance for me..
Let's refocus on the main subject.

Lithium battery => 19kg(42lbs) of weight reduction
Cost => ~$500

Yes or no?

Yes lol

Do you know if you will have issues running a lithium battery on the Stinger?

Yes it can my friends. I got the Antigravity battery a few weeks ago and it is running great so far. They make exact fit casing, so no need for brackets like Braille etc. The H7 should be an exact fitment for the Stinger. I went with the smallest casing (H5) to save a little more weight and fabricated a small aluminum bracket to make it fit right.

In all the battery casing sizes you have three storage options 24Ah, 30Ah or 40Ah. The less Ah the less cranking power and electric storage, effectively what it means is the lesser the Ah the fewer the battery cells inside the battery. I was recommended to go with the 40Ah for a daily driver since it will last up to 4-6 without needing to use a maintainer. The problem with the Lithium batteries is that once they go below a certain voltage (I believe 11.8v, not sure) then the battery is dead and cannot be recharged. Antigravity is using a smart solution for this, before dropping to that level were the battery becomes useless the BMS (Battery Management System) thats built in the battery automatically cuts the battery as if you disconnected the battery. You will be left with enough charge to restart the car, you re-activate the battery using a small remote to jump start the car and then the car will recharge the battery back to normal voltage.

I was told that typically the 24Ah should last 1-2 weeks without starting the car and without using a maintainer, 30Ah 3-4 weeks, 40Ah 5-6 weeks. Ultimately it depends on how much electricity your car drains while its off.

I saved 15.2kg or 31.3lbs (20.7kg - 6.5kg) using the 40Ah.

This is the one I bought (Note - will not fit exactly, need to fabricate longer bracket to make it fit)
H5/GROUP-47 LITHIUM CAR BATTERY – Antigravity Batteries

This I believe will fit exactly according to the measurements.
H7/GROUP-94R LITHIUM CAR BATTERY – Antigravity Batteries

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

 

[Angel]

Yes it can my friends. I got the Antigravity battery a few weeks ago and it is running great so far. They make exact fit casing, so no need for brackets like Braille etc. The H7 should be an exact fitment for the Stinger. I went with the smallest casing (H5) to save a little more weight and fabricated a small aluminum bracket to make it fit right.

In all the battery casing sizes you have three storage options 24Ah, 30Ah or 40Ah. The less Ah the less cranking power and electric storage, effectively what it means is the lesser the Ah the fewer the battery cells inside the battery. I was recommended to go with the 40Ah for a daily driver since it will last up to 4-6 without needing to use a maintainer. The problem with the Lithium batteries is that once they go below a certain voltage (I believe 11.8v, not sure) then the battery is dead and cannot be recharged, Antigravity is using a smart solution for this. Before dropping to that level were the battery becomes useless the BMS (Battery Management System) thats built in the battery automatically cuts the battery as if you disconnected the battery. You will be left with enough charge to restart the car, you re-activate the battery using a small remote to jump start the car and then the car will recharge the battery back to normal voltage.

I was told that typically the 24Ah should last 1-2 weeks without starting the car and needing a maintainer, 30Ah 3-4 weeks, 40Ah 5-6 weeks. Ultimately it depends on how much electricity your car drains while its off.

I saved 15.2kg or 31.3lbs (20.7kg - 6.5kg) using the 40Ah.

This is the one I bought (Note - will not fit exactly, need to fabricate longer bracket to make it fit)
H5/GROUP-47 LITHIUM CAR BATTERY – Antigravity Batteries

This I believe will fit exactly according to the measurements.
H7/GROUP-94R LITHIUM CAR BATTERY – Antigravity Batteries

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

Do you have pictures of it on the car ?

 

[Angel]

Yes it can my friends. I got the Antigravity battery a few weeks ago and it is running great so far. They make exact fit casing, so no need for brackets like Braille etc. The H7 should be an exact fitment for the Stinger. I went with the smallest casing (H5) to save a little more weight and fabricated a small aluminum bracket to make it fit right.

In all the battery casing sizes you have three storage options 24Ah, 30Ah or 40Ah. The less Ah the less cranking power and electric storage, effectively what it means is the lesser the Ah the fewer the battery cells inside the battery. I was recommended to go with the 40Ah for a daily driver since it will last up to 4-6 without needing to use a maintainer. The problem with the Lithium batteries is that once they go below a certain voltage (I believe 11.8v, not sure) then the battery is dead and cannot be recharged. Antigravity is using a smart solution for this, before dropping to that level were the battery becomes useless the BMS (Battery Management System) thats built in the battery automatically cuts the battery as if you disconnected the battery. You will be left with enough charge to restart the car, you re-activate the battery using a small remote to jump start the car and then the car will recharge the battery back to normal voltage.

I was told that typically the 24Ah should last 1-2 weeks without starting the car and without using a maintainer, 30Ah 3-4 weeks, 40Ah 5-6 weeks. Ultimately it depends on how much electricity your car drains while its off.

I saved 15.2kg or 31.3lbs (20.7kg - 6.5kg) using the 40Ah.

This is the one I bought (Note - will not fit exactly, need to fabricate longer bracket to make it fit)
H5/GROUP-47 LITHIUM CAR BATTERY – Antigravity Batteries

This I believe will fit exactly according to the measurements.
H7/GROUP-94R LITHIUM CAR BATTERY – Antigravity Batteries

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

Holy baby Jesus !!!!!!! $799 for battery??

Wow I guess I will keep the extra 20 pounds lol.

 

[STINGER]

Do you have pictures of it on the car ?

Not at hand, but I will snap one once I am back home later tonight.