Very loud suspension noise, Front Right- Tried everything that I can think of...

[D.J.]

Do you know if the axle nuts were removed? Those are torque to yield, and if they were removed they need to be replaced.

This noise sounds quite frustrating!


If it was a torque to yield fastener, you would be replacing the drive shaft each time you remove the nut! With TTY fasteners, the bolt stretches, not the nut.

It is however a really high torque, single use nut:
Tightening torque :
294.2 - 313.8 N·m (30.0 - 32.0 kgf·m, 217.0 - 231.5 lb·ft)

 

[SKStinger]

This is a strange one and it would be driving me nuts so I feel for ya.

Have you checked for loose panels? Belly pan and side skirt clips? Removed belly pan to make sure there isn’t anything rattling around on top?

While you’re under there, check the subframe bolts and make sure none are loose. A stretch, I know but a loose one can cause noise like this. There are 3 on each side in the front. This guide shows their location.

 

[nhcowboy28]

$5 says a dropped 10mm socket is bouncing in the engine bay…

 

[GT Elite]

I was thinking about this a little more. So, another question: it’s only the right side that makes the noise, so what did you do differently from side to side? Thinking this through may help to figure out where to look next.

 

[Spriggan]

IIRC, there was an issue once where someone pulled the axle on the front and these tiny roller bearings got lost and caused a noise. I can't find the thread though. Maybe @MerlintheMad remembers?

 

[Pandru]

I had this issue on my 2021 GT, I have a lengthy thread about this with another user here DrKronwall. It is due to tire cavity noise which is unbelievably bad on these cars with the 19” wheels. I put the oem 18” wheels on my car in the winter and the noise was lessened considerably. At the end of the day I got rid of the car due to this crazy market.

 

[SKStinger]

I had this issue on my 2021 GT, I have a lengthy thread about this with another user here DrKronwall. It is due to tire cavity noise which is unbelievably bad on these cars with the 19” wheels. I put the oem 18” wheels on my car in the winter and the noise was lessened considerably. At the end of the day I got rid of the car due to this crazy market.

OP tried both sets of wheels and same noise. If this was true we would all be complaining and you would expect 20” wheels to be even worse. Lots of people have that size and I’ve never heard this sound before. It has to be something else. It would also get worse with speed if it was the wheel/tire. His doesn’t.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

This is a strange one and it would be driving me nuts so I feel for ya.

Have you checked for loose panels? Belly pan and side skirt clips? Removed belly pan to make sure there isn’t anything rattling around on top?

While you’re under there, check the subframe bolts and make sure none are loose. A stretch, I know but a loose one can cause noise like this. There are 3 on each side in the front. This guide shows their location.

So I went under there yesterday, removed the splash trays and wheels wells. Tightened up literally everything that I could see. Even loosened the control arms up, put them at ride height and tightened them back up, thinking I had a bound bushing. Every panel was checked for fitment issues, with some spacers added in some loose fittings. No fixes found. Bonkers.

$5 says a dropped 10mm socket is bouncing in the engine bay…

Ha! I would usually bet the house on that.

I was thinking about this a little more. So, another question: it’s only the right side that makes the noise, so what did you do differently from side to side? Thinking this through may help to figure out where to look next.

Nothing, in all honestly. The irony is that I started the lowering spring install work on the driver's side, where any trial by fire learning occurred. This noisy passenger side was done to perfection. Everything by the factory book, torque specs and all.

IIRC, there was an issue once where someone pulled the axle on the front and these tiny roller bearings got lost and caused a noise. I can't find the thread though. Maybe @MerlintheMad remembers?

I thought the axles being a possibility. However, another member has this EXACT same noise issue and his is a RWD car, so that is temporarily taking axles/drivetrain out of the equation. He has also taken it to the dealer a few times without them being able to pinpoint it correctly.

I had this issue on my 2021 GT, I have a lengthy thread about this with another user here DrKronwall. It is due to tire cavity noise which is unbelievably bad on these cars with the 19” wheels. I put the oem 18” wheels on my car in the winter and the noise was lessened considerably. At the end of the day I got rid of the car due to this crazy market.

OP tried both sets of wheels and same noise. If this was true we would all be complaining and you would expect 20” wheels to be even worse. Lots of people have that size and I’ve never heard this sound before. It has to be something else. It would also get worse with speed if it was the wheel/tire. His doesn’t.

Yup, I put the 18"'s back on and the change was not considerable enough.

 

[Pandru]

The problem with this car is that noise isolation was not a main focus...I had a Genesis G70 with the exact same tires, wheel size and the noise was not there.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I am now just at a loss. All of my decades of mechanical know-how doesn't include this odd resonating sound. When comparing sides over a rough small patch of ice/gravel, this noisy side is 100 times louder and is not normal. The driver's side when driven over the same small patches is perfectly normal.

As stated above, I have tightened up literally everything under there, even the motor mounts and whatever else I can see. It's so tough to pinpoint, as it needs to be driven to be heard. In any traditional case, it would be beyond easy to diagnosis.

I do wonder if I have a knuckle or hub problem or a bad tie rod end....as I am running out of ideas. I understand that a hub traditionally changes with speed and especially when turning at certain angles, so I am putting that low in the short list. It is equally as loud and pitched at 2mph as it is at 70mph.

I keep coming back to the hollow "bonk" sound that side makes when hitting small bumps or pulling out of my garage. The strut was replaced and the springs were swapped around, sway bar link removed, but no change.

I may just line the wheel wells and floorplan with a high quality sound deadener until a fix is found. It would at least make me enjoy driving the car again!

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

The problem with this car is that noise isolation was not a main focus...I had a Genesis G70 with the exact same tires, wheel size and the noise was not there.

Quite possibly. I know this rare problem exists on a couple of 100% stock cars straight from the factory. One car might resonate while the other 99% of cars do not.

 

[Pandru]

Quite possibly. I know this rare problem exists on a couple of 100% stock cars straight from the factory. One car might resonate while the other 99% of cars do not.

I brought my Stinger in for it at least 4 times, they acknowledged that they heard the noise and opened a Tech Line case with Kia but they always came back each time stating it was a characteristic of the car. The last time I brought it in to a different dealer and I rode with the service manager in a new Stinger and we both heard the noise but he said on a scale of 1-10 my car was about an 8 whereas the one we drove was probably a 3-4. My car only had 2000 miles and was the exact same trim so It's hard to say why some are louder than others.

At the end of the day I sold that car because I couldn't deal with that noise on a daily basis, and happened to sell at the right time and make all my money back and then some in this market.

 

[GT Elite]

I can’t remember; you checked the over slam bumpers on the hood, right?

I still think it could be the strut bearing at the top of the strut.

Given everything you have done and checked and re-checked, I think it may be time to get some help. My suggestion is to find a shop that has a multiple microphone system that places microphones at various locations. They can then be listened to separately to locate the sound source.

My shop used this system on a Trans Am I had to locate a chassis noise. It worked like a charm.

 

[Boogetsbizzy]

I can’t remember; you checked the over slam bumpers on the hood, right?

I still think it could be the strut bearing at the top of the strut.

Given everything you have done and checked and re-checked, I think it may be time to get some help. My suggestion is to find a shop that has a multiple microphone system that places microphones at various locations. They can then be listened to separately to locate the sound source.

My shop used this system on a Trans Am I had to locate a chassis noise. It worked like a charm.

Was just thinking this. I’m like why can’t microphones be put in the car to pinpoint the sounds instead of going through the mess of tinkering.

 

[Snowwhite]

The center of the hub spins, yes; the attachment to the rest of the spindle does not. On an AWD car it’s going to be tough to get to the hub bolts, but might be another place to check. If they are all torqued to spec, it could be the hub, or the top strut mount bearing.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I brought my Stinger in for it at least 4 times, they acknowledged that they heard the noise and opened a Tech Line case with Kia but they always came back each time stating it was a characteristic of the car. The last time I brought it in to a different dealer and I rode with the service manager in a new Stinger and we both heard the noise but he said on a scale of 1-10 my car was about an 8 whereas the one we drove was probably a 3-4. My car only had 2000 miles and was the exact same trim so It's hard to say why some are louder than others.

At the end of the day I sold that car because I couldn't deal with that noise on a daily basis, and happened to sell at the right time and make all my money back and then some in this market.

What exactly was the noise that you were hearing? Anything specific or just all around?

I can’t remember; you checked the over slam bumpers on the hood, right?

I still think it could be the strut bearing at the top of the strut.

Given everything you have done and checked and re-checked, I think it may be time to get some help. My suggestion is to find a shop that has a multiple microphone system that places microphones at various locations. They can then be listened to separately to locate the sound source.

My shop used this system on a Trans Am I had to locate a chassis noise. It worked like a charm.

Was just thinking this. I’m like why can’t microphones be put in the car to pinpoint the sounds instead of going through the mess of tinkering.

It did adjust the slam bumpers yes. I'll order another strut bearing, as I can replace that in my sleep at this point.

And yes, I was thinking of getting a mic for myself, but heck...if a shop has a multiple mic system setup that would be fantastic. Thanks for that suggestion. My local dealer shrugged it off as "fairly normal", so finding an expert at the end of this line will hopefully do the trick. I will happily give someone $1,000 to for a sure fire fix this any day of the week.

 

[djerickd]

hope you figure this out soon

 

[Hawk853]

@Spriggan had the same recollection that I did of someone pulling on the CV too hard and having to replace it.

What @GT Elite is talking about are Chassis Ears. Such a great tool not many people know about.

I’ve quickly tracked down noises that from the drivers seat I would have been way off with my guess.

STEELMAN ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder Auto Diagnostics Tool, 6 Microphone Clamps with Leads, Over-Ear Headphones Amazon.com

 

[Rodtheviking]

Inner tie rod, end link or rack bushing would be my next things to check.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

@Spriggan had the same recollection that I did of someone pulling on the CV too hard and having to replace it.

What @GT Elite is talking about are Chassis Ears. Such a great tool not many people know about.

I’ve quickly tracked down noises that from the drivers seat I would have been way off with my guess.

STEELMAN ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder Auto Diagnostics Tool, 6 Microphone Clamps with Leads, Over-Ear Headphones Amazon.com

Oh wow, those look fantastic. I will order those if the incoming top hat/bearing does not do the trick. Very helpful, thanks!