Tire pressure

I set them that way to account for the dynamics of corner load. During cornering and braking, the front tires carry more weight than the rears, so the front pressures are set higher (than the rears) to stiffen sidewalls and to reduce sidewall rolling; the rear pressures are increased just slightly to account for a higher average of cornering speed. During acceleration, the front tire pressures are less important; the modest increase in rear is also not that important.

The 1-2 psi difference in side-to-side pressures is to account for the difference in static corner weight. Usually in a mass-produced vehicle, the LF corner carries the most weight followed by RF, then LR, and the lightest at RR corner when there is only the driver in the car.
That rates as one of the most well thought out, OC explanations I have ever read about anything. How often do you check your cold tire psi all around to make sure that these well thought out settings are where they are supposed to be?
 
I set them that way to account for the dynamics of corner load. During cornering and braking, the front tires carry more weight than the rears, so the front pressures are set higher (than the rears) to stiffen sidewalls and to reduce sidewall rolling; the rear pressures are increased just slightly to account for a higher average of cornering speed. During acceleration, the front tire pressures are less important; the modest increase in rear is also not that important.

The 1-2 psi difference in side-to-side pressures is to account for the difference in static corner weight. Usually in a mass-produced vehicle, the LF corner carries the most weight followed by RF, then LR, and the lightest at RR corner when there is only the driver in the car.
I believe there is a position vacant in the technical and development division of Kia. Sounds like you would be well suited. Lol
 
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That rates as one of the most well thought out, OC explanations I have ever read about anything. How often do you check your cold tire psi all around to make sure that these well thought out settings are where they are supposed to be?
"so the front pressures are set higher (than the rears) to stiffen sidewalls and to reduce sidewall rolling"
I'm between 39 and 41 on all 4 from factory on a '19 RWD GT. But thinking recent poster is right suggesting 38 all around (or maybe 40/38?)
 
I'm between 39 and 41 on all 4 from factory on a '19 RWD GT.
Those aren't factory pressures - KIA ships the cars with pressure set much higher for transport. The dealer is supposed to make sure the tires (cold) match the recommended pressure specs shown on the driver's door jamb label, as part of the PDI.

Based on personal experience as well as postings here, the dealer often misses the mark on that.
 
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"so the front pressures are set higher (than the rears) to stiffen sidewalls and to reduce sidewall rolling"
I'm between 39 and 41 on all 4 from factory on a '19 RWD GT. But thinking recent poster is right suggesting 38 all around (or maybe 40/38?)

A long as you are running stock tires, it is best to stick with KIA recommended pressure.

The car manufacturer takes into account many specs when matching tires to the car and pressure in the tires. Weight distribution, drivetrain and bias, potential fit understeer and oversteer, etc.. They really do know what they are doing.

The only reason mine are different is bc I am running different size tires, which are rated at 98Y all the way around, vs the stock tire at 96Y on the rear. Thus, the load rating on my rear tires are higher, meaning I need slightly less psi to equal roughly the same performance as stock.
 
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A long as you are running stock tires, it is best to stick with KIA recommended pressure.

The car manufacturer takes into account many specs when matching tires to the car and pressure in the tires. Weight distribution, drivetrain and bias, potential fit understeer and oversteer, etc.. They really do know what they are doing.

The only reason mine are different is bc I an running different size tires, which are rated at 98Y all the way around, vs the stock tire at 96Y on the rear. Thus, the load rating on my rear tires are higher, meaning I need slightly less psi to equal roughly the same performance as stock.
Well darn, now I don't know what PSI I should shoot for. Plus, the dealer "helpfully" loaded them up with hydrogen. I'm in NC, so the PSI change per day is usually only 1-2 pound per tire.
 
Well darn, now I don't know what PSI I should shoot for. Plus, the dealer "helpfully" loaded them up with hydrogen. I'm in NC, so the PSI change per day is usually only 1-2 pound per tire.

When your tires are cold, set your pressure according to the placard on the inside driver door. Use a tire Guage, not your tpms sensors.
 
Well darn, now I don't know what PSI I should shoot for. Plus, the dealer "helpfully" loaded them up with hydrogen. I'm in NC, so the PSI change per day is usually only 1-2 pound per tire.
Hydrogen!!! A highly combustible gas!!! Find another "helpful" dealer.
 
Hydrogen!!! A highly combustible gas!!! Find another "helpful" dealer.

Lol, he meant nitrogen. Too funny!!

Goodness, gracious, great rolling balls of fire!
 
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40 PSI on all 4. Front versus back PSI business sounds like nonsense.
 
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Too high for me...oh my aching back! ive also read posts of the tire wearing out in the middle like real fast at factory tire prssure....34 seems to be the sweet spot for me:) Wash
So at 34 is there any sign of premature wear on the outsides?
 
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???Are you saying that the larger engine is "TAXED" the value of the car's MSRP?:eek:

Yep.
Base price of the fully loaded GT(2) is 47.500 €, around 54.000 US$, 75.000 AUD
State tax 21% is an additional 10.000 €, 11.350 US or 15.900 AUD
BPM, that is the CO2 fine, 42.500 €, 48000 US$, 67.500 AUD
Road tax based on car weight is 720€ yearly.

I was born there, but fortunately live in Italy where I pay ‘only’ the 22% state tax. Yearly road tax (Bollo, based on engine HP) is 2400€ though.
The only GT(2)’s you will see in The Netherlands will probably have foreign plates. How beautiful the car may be, people will not pay that amount of money for a KIA.

One of the worst hit cars:
If you want to drive a Lamborghini Urus in The Netherlands you pay
107.415 €, 122.000 $, 174.00 AUD on top of the VAT!

Dealers do not even bother to sell the GT500 Shelby, Hellcats and Demons there
 
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That rates as one of the most well thought out, OC explanations I have ever read about anything. How often do you check your cold tire psi all around to make sure that these well thought out settings are where they are supposed to be?

LOL, having mechanical engineering degrees and being an autocrosser drive me to that kind of OC behavior!

They're easy to check with the Stinger TPMS display; this is something I do rather infrequently, usually following a cold start (not immediately since the TPMS system waits for inputs from sensors until the car has been driven some). The pressure levels also vary by outside temperature as expected.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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