Tial BOV issue

Do you mind explaining the reason for that?

At the moment, if you are running it from the solenoid the BOV stays open for a good 20-30min after the car is turned off because there is vacuum stored in the chamber kept there by the check valve. On a recirculated setup like OEM it is not going to be a problem. On vent to atmosphere setup you can get dust etc going into the system with the open BOV especially if the radiator fan turns on, maybe even water if you wash the car with pressure etc. Small amounts probably not a problem, but small amounts done several times over a period can have a bad effect to the turbos, motor maybe etc.

If you get the vacuum directly from the manifold, the BOV should immediately close once the car is turned off as there shouldn't be any vacuum stored in the intake manifold.
 
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Thanks for the explanation!
 
what I have found so far is running the 7mm id hose made no difference but its what tial recommends so keeping with it.

If the fitting doesnt have a 1/4" ID then it will be pointless to run a bigger hose, the ID from the source until the BOV has to be 1/4" for TiAL recommendation to work.
 
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Did a direct to manifold connection for my TiAL today, and the BOV was fully opened at idle. Revved it a few times and it would close under boost and go back to staying open at idle under normal vacuum. Drove the car and at WOT no problems, but again at idle the BOV would remain fully open. I would assume it is fully open anytime at off throttle or part throttle during driving.

Does this mean the spring is too soft for direct to manifold connection?

took a video,

and then I saw this and I was like my problems are nothing next to this guy,
 
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At the moment, if you are running it from the solenoid the BOV stays open for a good 20-30min after the car is turned off because there is vacuum stored in the chamber kept there by the check valve. On a recirculated setup like OEM it is not going to be a problem. On vent to atmosphere setup you can get dust etc going into the system with the open BOV especially if the radiator fan turns on, maybe even water if you wash the car with pressure etc. Small amounts probably not a problem, but small amounts done several times over a period can have a bad effect to the turbos, motor maybe etc.

If you get the vacuum directly from the manifold, the BOV should immediately close once the car is turned off as there shouldn't be any vacuum stored in the intake manifold.

QRJ Spring is to soft for manifold vacuum and stays open at idle. If your coasting down the road off throttle and it's opened up, debris getting kicked up into the engine bay have an unfiltered entrance into the engine. Works perfectly off solenoid.

If the fitting doesnt have a 1/4" ID then it will be pointless to run a bigger hose, the ID from the source until the BOV has to be 1/4" for TiAL recommendation to work.

While it may not do anything the tial Barb is still 1/4" and it looks alot better to run the appropriate size hose than to stretch the smaller hose over it. cut a tiny piece of small diameter hose just long enough to go over vacuum fitting, then slide larger diameter hose over it and clamp.
 
QRJ Spring is to soft for manifold vacuum and stays open at idle. If your coasting down the road off throttle and it's opened up, debris getting kicked up into the engine bay have an unfiltered entrance into the engine.

same situation with the TiAL Q with the 6psi spring. As you can see in the video I posted, with direct manifold connection it opens whenever in vacuum.
 
same situation with the TiAL Q with the 6psi spring. As you can see in the video I posted, with direct manifold connection it opens whenever in vacuum.

Got some good suction. Could shim the spring with a 3/4" washer to add some tension, cheapest option.
 
I'm having this problem with my Tial BOV and I'm using the BMS adapter and the Tial BOV on their site. Most of the time it seems to work fine but once in a while I do hear surge. I noticed after driving that the valve stays open for a while too. Is the general consensus now that you can't run it directly to manifold because that's too much vacuum? Would putting a restriction in the vacuum line like a hose clamp with something wedged next to it so you can tighten or loosen it to adjust the amount of vacuum you get under idle? I'm just throwing out ideas, it sounds like the solenoid is too slow to react and the vacuum at the manifold sucks too much. Also, the small tube on the bottom of the solenoid is a reference to the charged side vs the vacuum side when the throttle plate is closed. Most likely what the ECU uses to know when to trigger the solenoid if I had to guess. I might try a larger ID tubing on that short tube to see if the ECU response to activate the solenoid gets any quicker with a larger reference. The tubes KIA uses are kind of flimsy IMO. I've been running my car like this for probably a year and it hasn't blown up and still pulls hard so I don't think I've hurt anything. The surge does sound cool, too bad it's not good.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm having this problem with my Tial BOV and I'm using the BMS adapter and the Tial BOV on their site. Most of the time it seems to work fine but once in a while I do hear surge. I noticed after driving that the valve stays open for a while too. Is the general consensus now that you can't run it directly to manifold because that's too much vacuum? Would putting a restriction in the vacuum line like a hose clamp with something wedged next to it so you can tighten or loosen it to adjust the amount of vacuum you get under idle? I'm just throwing out ideas, it sounds like the solenoid is too slow to react and the vacuum at the manifold sucks too much. Also, the small tube on the bottom of the solenoid is a reference to the charged side vs the vacuum side when the throttle plate is closed. Most likely what the ECU uses to know when to trigger the solenoid if I had to guess. I might try a larger ID tubing on that short tube to see if the ECU response to activate the solenoid gets any quicker with a larger reference. The tubes KIA uses are kind of flimsy IMO. I've been running my car like this for probably a year and it hasn't blown up and still pulls hard so I don't think I've hurt anything. The surge does sound cool, too bad it's not good.

You want to connect directly to the manifold with that BOV just verify that it stays closed when the car is idling, which it should with the black spring.
 
I went hks, and love the dual blow off, opens up 100% of time at low and high pressure

off the solenoid or from the intake manifold? What size vacuum tubing are you using?
 
I know this thread is a bit old at this point but hoping to get some new information.

Installed the Mishimoto i/c kit last week along with their BOV flange adapter and the recommended QR BOV. I connected the line to the manifold as recommended and capped off the connection at the solenoid. Car is running fine but I noticed that at idle the BOV is staying partially open. I know others have had this issue, is there a definite fix for this?
 
I know this thread is a bit old at this point but hoping to get some new information.

Installed the Mishimoto i/c kit last week along with their BOV flange adapter and the recommended QR BOV. I connected the line to the manifold as recommended and capped off the connection at the solenoid. Car is running fine but I noticed that at idle the BOV is staying partially open. I know others have had this issue, is there a definite fix for this?
The stinger setting is 3psi to open, the black spring in the tial everyone wishing using is 6psi. It is why even after going directly to manifold I still sold mine. If your QR has a 3psi spring just connect as normal. It’s my understanding Mishimoto recommended direct to manifold as option to help if an issue, not as a default?
When I emailed Tial support with a video of my tial at the time they were responsive, you may reach out to them.

As side note:
Usually the vacuum is not there if tial is staying open. Pull the line off the tial, if you don’t hear air escaping than lack of vacuum could be the issue. With my issues I had it was all based on the spring being too much for oem settings.
 
@Chris71 so did you end up going back to stock of some sort?
Also, this is with the QRJ, not the Q that was originally recommended. I'll have to double check the spring in the QRJ, it SHOULD be the 3psi one but who knows. I started up the car this morning, having moved the hose back to the factory connection at the solenoid, and the valve remained closed under idle, but, I'm backing to getting the dual "bov sounds" like I was before when I had the Q, which sounds like the BOV going off as well as sound coming from the passenger side intake.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
@Chris71 so did you end up going back to stock of some sort?
Also, this is with the QRJ, not the Q that was originally recommended. I'll have to double check the spring in the QRJ, it SHOULD be the 3psi one but who knows. I started up the car this morning, having moved the hose back to the factory connection at the solenoid, and the valve remained closed under idle, but, I'm backing to getting the dual "bov sounds" like I was before when I had the Q, which sounds like the BOV going off as well as sound coming from the passenger side intake.
I had the hks for a bit but sold them when traded my 2018 stinger for a 2020 stinger. I am now running stock valves as bovs. I have no intention of buying bovs again:)
 

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I know this thread is a bit old at this point but hoping to get some new information.

Installed the Mishimoto i/c kit last week along with their BOV flange adapter and the recommended QR BOV. I connected the line to the manifold as recommended and capped off the connection at the solenoid. Car is running fine but I noticed that at idle the BOV is staying partially open. I know others have had this issue, is there a definite fix for this?
I know mister it is a lot of old by now but weren’t you guys actually hooking to the vacuum chamber instead of the intake manifold? It looks like the intake manifold is behind the vacuum chamber plumbed in with light gray tubing.
 
well, after reading all this is makes it very clear: stick to OEM unless you want problems.
 
well, after reading all this is makes it very clear: stick to OEM unless you want problems.
Just wanted to chime in. Not discounting anything said in this post, but I do want to say my experience has been very different. I’ve had zero issues with the Tial Q. Closed at idle, valve releases when it should, and holds boost during shifts better than the stock diverters. I haven’t opened it up but assume it’s the 6lb spring as it was purchased direct from BMS. Don’t know what could be different about my setup?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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