Stripped drain plug

Jroblero18

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I bought my ‘18 GT1 used and when I tried doing the oil change, I noticed the bolt was stripped.. horribly stripped. Any suggestions on how to remove it? That bar is too close and isn’t allowing me to use a strip tool and ratchet.
 
This question is all about education: How does a horribly stripped drain plug still hold oil?
 
assuming the bolt head is stripped correct?
1) buy a replacement drain plug (get rid of the stripped one once you are able to get it removed)
2) then size down socket size to see if you can wedge it into the stripped bolt head to remove OR
you can try using vice grips to hang onto the stripped bolt head and try loosen it that way
If both of the above fails, you can always just go to a shop have then weld a bolt onto the stripped bolt's head
then you can just ratchet that new welded on bolt to remove
 
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Yes that’s correct, it’s the bolt head. Thank you!! I will be trying this today
 
I assumed the OP meant the threads were stripped.

This issue highlights the importance of using 6 point sockets whenever possible. I've seen some folks use pliers on perfectly good fasteners.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
it's instances like this that make me do all car work myself
Oil drain plug torque specs are nowhere near causing a bolt head to strip
 
it's instances like this that make me do all car work myself
Oil drain plug torque specs are nowhere near causing a bolt head to strip
Yup. That’s why I decided to do it myself. I’m assuming either the previous owner or the dealership left that bolt head stripped
 
Rather than replace with a standard drain plug. Slap a quick change valve on there for tool-less oil drains going forward. Keeps my driveway more clean with no spills or splashes.

  • EZ (AL-106) Silver 14mm-1.5 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve Adapter
  • EZ (EZ-106) Silver 14mm-1.5 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve
  • EZ Oil Drain Valve (L-001) L-Shaped Hose End - 3/8" L-Shape

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Rather than replace with a standard drain plug. Slap a quick change valve on there for tool-less oil drains going forward. Keeps my driveway more clean with no spills or splashes.

  • EZ (AL-106) Silver 14mm-1.5 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve Adapter
  • EZ (EZ-106) Silver 14mm-1.5 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve
  • EZ Oil Drain Valve (L-001) L-Shaped Hose End - 3/8" L-Shape

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I like how you cut a hole in the underpanel so you don't need to remove

I have a fumoto valve already but think I'm going to have to copy that

Where did you get that black circle plastic trim?
 
Oil drain plug torque specs are nowhere near causing a bolt head to strip

True, but using SAE sockets that "kinda fit" on metric bolts will definitely round them off.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
:thumbup: I used a 15/16" socket (6 pt) to remove the oil filter cap. It actually fit better than the proper 24mm socket.
 
I'm curious to your jack stand/floor jack points? Have any more pics of that?
 
I'm curious to your jack stand/floor jack points? Have any more pics of that?
I don't....


But I can tell you what I did/do

I jacked from the pinch weld location (same place a hoist arm would list from).
I have this on my jack too... just a rubber pad - 7.5US $ 18% OFF|Floor Slotted Car Rubber Jack Pad Frame Protector Guard Adapter Jacking Disk Pad Tool for Pinch Weld Side Lifting Disk 12.5cm| | - AliExpress


For the jack stands - I place them somewhere strong (control arm) but I don't actually put the car down on the jack stands. They are only there for if my jack fails catastrophically.

I probably "should" lower the car onto the jack stands - but I don't. unless I was leaving it raised for days.
It may not be perfectly clear from the image, but there is actually no weight on this jack stand. it's just there to save my life if my jack fails.

However you do it, - be safe. My rear wheels are chocked too - but you can't see that in the pics

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Screenshot from a vid
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Got it. I'm always on the look out for improved ways to jack this beast up.

I've been using the HF beam adapter - Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam

I use a puck between each pad and the pinch welds. One pad is placed near the factory jack point, the other some distance away. This jacks up the whole side of the car while still supporting it. I place jack stands at front & rear jack points. Puck with slot is used between jackstand and jack point. Car is then lowered.

It's a pita to do this each time on each side but I think is safer than relying on floor jacks.

What I learned from the last time is I should mark the button of the car wre to where the pucks are positioned on the beam adapter to keep it consistent.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Or you could just leave it and buy an oil extractor. I have a Mityvac 7400 and use it on all of my vehicles. No mess and then the only thing you have to access is the oil filter which is relatively painless using that access hole.
 
______________________________
I don't....


But I can tell you what I did/do

I jacked from the pinch weld location (same place a hoist arm would list from).
I have this on my jack too... just a rubber pad - 7.5US $ 18% OFF|Floor Slotted Car Rubber Jack Pad Frame Protector Guard Adapter Jacking Disk Pad Tool for Pinch Weld Side Lifting Disk 12.5cm| | - AliExpress


For the jack stands - I place them somewhere strong (control arm) but I don't actually put the car down on the jack stands. They are only there for if my jack fails catastrophically.

I probably "should" lower the car onto the jack stands - but I don't. unless I was leaving it raised for days.
It may not be perfectly clear from the image, but there is actually no weight on this jack stand. it's just there to save my life if my jack fails.

However you do it, - be safe. My rear wheels are chocked too - but you can't see that in the pics

View attachment 63179


Screenshot from a vid
View attachment 63180
View attachment 63181
Some additional pics from the other day...

Quick change valve is so much cleaner, clean drain, no spill.
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^^What's the driver side jack stand for? :)
 
Given the typical low torque spec for a drain bolt, I can't imagine how anyone could round one off. Even if the problem were overtightening, I'd expect the threads or drain pan to die first.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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