STINGER TUNING
- Thread starter Sting
- Start date
Can you get some numbers for the 2.0T with ECU flash ?
Bamm1
Founding Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2017
- Messages
- 645
- Reaction score
- 330
- Points
- 68
They are seeing gains of ~ 50 hp/tq, at the wheels, for both piggyback units and ECU tunes.
So from ~ 200 / 230 stock to ~ 250 / 280 with the tune.
______________________________
It only has 200 whp ? Shouldnt the bhp be like 255 hp ?
srtcrazy05
Member
wow its still really rich on the top end. a lot of room for improvement there
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Bamm1
Founding Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2017
- Messages
- 645
- Reaction score
- 330
- Points
- 68
Don't get too caught up on the dyno numbers. Dyno readings can vary wildly based on a multitude of factors (weather, fuel, dyno manufacturer, etc.). So I don't think Kia somehow overrated the engine (i.e. it makes less than 255 hp).
davebo
Stinger Enthusiast
On long trips which as barely never (drove down to Naples) last Fall I was getting 28 mpg or better if memory serves me ??? But that was a continuous 2 hour drive each way. Daily spirited driving 19-low 20's. And that is in normal to Sport mode transitions. I also have a FMIC along with Mid pipe (factory exhaust).
srtcrazy05
Member
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
davebo
Stinger Enthusiast
True. I hope the Stinger not having that gaping maw of a grille doesn't impact the air flow too much
Taimaishoo
Active Member
All car manufacturers advertise HP at the crank, meaning that is what your engine produces. However, due to drive shafts, transmissions, etc, you will lose about 30hp through all of that. So when KIA advertises 365hp, at the wheels, at most, you are getting about 335hp. This is not false advertising. The laws of physics just are. (Except in my pocket universe which I won't share because it's only big enough for me!)
Remember: The easier your car can breath in (air intake) and exhale (exhaust), the more power your engine can make. With a little bit of money (we don't know the cost, really, because there is no aftermarket in the US yet, hehe), time and a little know how, you can easily gain 10-20 horse power without getting a tune.
There's what's called your 'butt dyno' (you sitting in the drivers seat and stomping the gas) and usually you can't feel 5-10hp of difference, but you know it's there. "My butt dyno says I gained a few horses!" And there's a true dyno, where they place the car and big steel rollers and hook up all sorts of probes and wires to the car and then stomp on it. A computer will take in all the readings and calculations and then display horse power and torque at the wheels.
Everyone's definition of a Tune is different. In my opinion, a tune is when someone hacks the ECU (electronic control unit) of a car and is able to change the default manufacture settings in order to increase/decrease air to fuel mixture, boost, etc. Something you plug in to trick your car into thinking it's not getting enough air flow, to me, is not a tune. Then you have a 'canned' or 'bench' tune and a custom tune. A canned and bench tune are the same thing. This is where someone hacks an ECU and determines the best average settings of a car with so-and-so modifications and sends that out to whoever buys their tune. A custom tune is just that, custom. This is usually more expensive as it requires time on a dyno in order to read the output of your car and makes adjustments on the fly, runs your car again, makes adjustments, etc. etc. etc. until your car is purring like a kitten or roaring like a lion!
Tunes come in stages. Stage 0, 1, 2, 3, etc. The higher the stage, the more aggressive the tune. Most drivers will opt for a stage 0 or 1. These are mild tunes and usually adjust air-fuel mixture, boost, and probably 100 other different small adjustments that I will probably never know about.
Stage 0 is very mild and probably cleans up air-fuel mixture and other things, no modifications is usually required.
Stage 1 tune usually nets about 40/40 (hp/torque) and probably will require a few bolt-ons, such as a bigger cold air intake; probably a few hundred dollars of various parts replacement and usually just require removing a few bolts to replace, hence the term bolt-ons. The bolt-ons plus the tune may net about 60/60 over all. Depending on bolt-ons you put on your car. When I had my Veloster Turbo, my net gain was 40/35 with a stage 1 tune and just a cold air intake.
Stage 2 and beyond are usually for those with interest of putting their car on a track (drag or otherwise), bragging rights, or for the fun of it! They are a LOT more aggressive and usually requires more extensive work; chassis stiffeners (sway bars), cat back exhaust (replacing exhaust from the catalytic converter to the muffler and exhaust tip, bigger intercooler, forged rods and pistons, replacing the smaller turbos with bigger ones, etc, and can get real expensive. These can also cause extreme damage to the engine if proper care hasn't been taken to prepare the engine for this kind of power. I've seen 1.6 turbos put out a net gain of about 170hp with major bolt-ons and a stage 3 tune.
Me, I'll have to wait to see what the after-market brings to the table for the Stinger GT before I do anything but woooo, doggie! I can't wait! I can easily imagine around 400hp with a few bolt-ons and a stage 1 tune. The problem will be after market support. It will take a little time for people to research and develop a tune and after market parts so I wouldn't expected to see anything major until about 6 months after the car is released, at least here in the US. Someone's gotta buy the car and then willing to blow it up while they try this out and that out and ooops! too much of this or too little of that and POP!
Oh! And just because KIA may advertise 20 city and 28 hwy (whatever they will advertise the MPG here in the states), remeber that these numbers are AVERAGE and under mild driving conditions. Altitude, humidity, heat, will always affect these numbers. And so does your LEAD FOOT! HAHAHAHA!
Remember: The easier your car can breath in (air intake) and exhale (exhaust), the more power your engine can make. With a little bit of money (we don't know the cost, really, because there is no aftermarket in the US yet, hehe), time and a little know how, you can easily gain 10-20 horse power without getting a tune.
There's what's called your 'butt dyno' (you sitting in the drivers seat and stomping the gas) and usually you can't feel 5-10hp of difference, but you know it's there. "My butt dyno says I gained a few horses!" And there's a true dyno, where they place the car and big steel rollers and hook up all sorts of probes and wires to the car and then stomp on it. A computer will take in all the readings and calculations and then display horse power and torque at the wheels.
Everyone's definition of a Tune is different. In my opinion, a tune is when someone hacks the ECU (electronic control unit) of a car and is able to change the default manufacture settings in order to increase/decrease air to fuel mixture, boost, etc. Something you plug in to trick your car into thinking it's not getting enough air flow, to me, is not a tune. Then you have a 'canned' or 'bench' tune and a custom tune. A canned and bench tune are the same thing. This is where someone hacks an ECU and determines the best average settings of a car with so-and-so modifications and sends that out to whoever buys their tune. A custom tune is just that, custom. This is usually more expensive as it requires time on a dyno in order to read the output of your car and makes adjustments on the fly, runs your car again, makes adjustments, etc. etc. etc. until your car is purring like a kitten or roaring like a lion!
Tunes come in stages. Stage 0, 1, 2, 3, etc. The higher the stage, the more aggressive the tune. Most drivers will opt for a stage 0 or 1. These are mild tunes and usually adjust air-fuel mixture, boost, and probably 100 other different small adjustments that I will probably never know about.
Stage 0 is very mild and probably cleans up air-fuel mixture and other things, no modifications is usually required.
Stage 1 tune usually nets about 40/40 (hp/torque) and probably will require a few bolt-ons, such as a bigger cold air intake; probably a few hundred dollars of various parts replacement and usually just require removing a few bolts to replace, hence the term bolt-ons. The bolt-ons plus the tune may net about 60/60 over all. Depending on bolt-ons you put on your car. When I had my Veloster Turbo, my net gain was 40/35 with a stage 1 tune and just a cold air intake.
Stage 2 and beyond are usually for those with interest of putting their car on a track (drag or otherwise), bragging rights, or for the fun of it! They are a LOT more aggressive and usually requires more extensive work; chassis stiffeners (sway bars), cat back exhaust (replacing exhaust from the catalytic converter to the muffler and exhaust tip, bigger intercooler, forged rods and pistons, replacing the smaller turbos with bigger ones, etc, and can get real expensive. These can also cause extreme damage to the engine if proper care hasn't been taken to prepare the engine for this kind of power. I've seen 1.6 turbos put out a net gain of about 170hp with major bolt-ons and a stage 3 tune.
Me, I'll have to wait to see what the after-market brings to the table for the Stinger GT before I do anything but woooo, doggie! I can't wait! I can easily imagine around 400hp with a few bolt-ons and a stage 1 tune. The problem will be after market support. It will take a little time for people to research and develop a tune and after market parts so I wouldn't expected to see anything major until about 6 months after the car is released, at least here in the US. Someone's gotta buy the car and then willing to blow it up while they try this out and that out and ooops! too much of this or too little of that and POP!
Oh! And just because KIA may advertise 20 city and 28 hwy (whatever they will advertise the MPG here in the states), remeber that these numbers are AVERAGE and under mild driving conditions. Altitude, humidity, heat, will always affect these numbers. And so does your LEAD FOOT! HAHAHAHA!
Taimaishoo
Active Member
The only thing with Cobb is whether or not the ECU is tuner friendly. When I had my Hyundai Veloster Turbo, the ECU wasn't very tuner friendly. They actually had to open up the ECU in order to access the contact points where they could then over ride the default mapping of the ECU. But a Ford Focus ST, you could use Cobb all day long with their ECU.
Taimaishoo
Active Member
Wow! Apparently I overlooked a few to several posts and typed up all of that post. I apologize for posting any, "Gee, you think!", and "DUH!", statements. 
CoconutRob
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2017
- Messages
- 948
- Reaction score
- 307
- Points
- 68
Hey guys, I have never tuned a car before. I would be interested in easy bolt on's and would be happy with just over 400hp. I do not have a good shop close or feel comfortable with area garages. So I have a few questions.
1. How safe are piggybacks (which I prefer in my situation) or 0 to 1 tunes for the motor?
2. Do you all think 400+ is possible with exhaust, cold air intake and piggyback tune?
3. What about warranty? As a first time kia owner, unsure of durability I do not know if I would want to give up my warranty for 50hp.
1. How safe are piggybacks (which I prefer in my situation) or 0 to 1 tunes for the motor?
2. Do you all think 400+ is possible with exhaust, cold air intake and piggyback tune?
3. What about warranty? As a first time kia owner, unsure of durability I do not know if I would want to give up my warranty for 50hp.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
A piggyback or ECU tune would definitely void the warranty.
However the benefit of a piggyback tune is there is *probably* no way for them to know. Just unplug it Everytime you take it to the dealer...
______________________________
Bamm1
Founding Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2017
- Messages
- 645
- Reaction score
- 330
- Points
- 68
1. It depends on what the piggyback unit is taping into. The simplest ones just "trick" the ECU into requesting more boost. The ECU is then constantly running in adaptation mode to pull timing, add fuel, etc. It can impact "smoothness" but since it doesn't alter any of the knock tables built into the ECU it is generally safe. If you had "bad gas", it was really hot, etc. the ECU could compensate (pull timing, etc.). Worst case scenario, it will throw the car into limp mode to save the engine.
2. A cat back exhaust and a cold air intake provide very little in the way of a power increases. Most stock systems are designed pretty well. You mostly get a sound increase on both ends (turbo sounds and obviously exhaust note). It looks like in Korea the piggyback units are adding ~50whp and a Stage 1 ECU tune is in the ~80 whp range. So it seems 400 crank hp is possible with just a piggyback alone.
3. Piggyback units are usually much harder to detect. However, if something were to break and codes are thrown it could "snap shot" something abnormal. Say fuel rail pressure is much higher than it should be for the requested boost level. A Stage 1 tune that re-writes the ECU always seems one "deep dive" into the code away from detection. Flashing back to stock can work but again if something broke and the ECU captured boost, fueling and timing out of the factory range you are likely footing the bill.
Some tuners offer a brand new ECU, so you can have one with a tune and one without. That allows you to swap back and forth at your leisure. But again, you throw a rod, swap the ECU back and they find "no codes' they are going to think something is up.
So to sum up. It looks like this engine responds well to tuning. But if you go down that road you have to accept "its pay to play."
Last edited:
CoconutRob
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2017
- Messages
- 948
- Reaction score
- 307
- Points
- 68
Thanks for the reply. I assumed intake and exhaust would be needed for new tune.
CoconutRob
Stinger Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2017
- Messages
- 948
- Reaction score
- 307
- Points
- 68
I would be financing the purchase so I probably will not tune until after I pay it off in a few years. I wouldn't want a problem with a $50k car that is not paid off yet and warranty is voided. Lol
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
