Slim Subwoofer

[Aarvix]

What size is that

10" Audiofrog GB10D4

 

[Pinkhavok4488]

What signal did everyone tap into? I’m adding a custom 12” and don’t want to tap into the filtered signal. I want it to be clean bass for my amp

 

[BIGBREW]

Super easy to tap into the right rear speaker wire. Someone posted how to do it in this thread. Get yourself a couple blue T-taps at the auto parts store. Took me 15-20 min.

 

[Snowwhite]

careful with the rear door speaker taps, that's the speakers the fake engine noise is generated. if you turn off the fake noise, no problem. if you don't, you're going to have a much louder exhaust note inside the car without replacing any mufflers.

if you tap the front door speaker you won't get the fake engine noise. Mine's been off since day 1, but to each his own.

 

[brownbob06]

if your just wanting to add some more usable output i suggest going with just a new amp for the under seat subs only , its an easy install and will give you great results and more control over the oem subs . no space taken up and it sound much better and play louder as well and will be totally controllable from the oem headunit . pm me if have any other questions

Is there a particular amp you'd recommend? And what's involved in upgrading just the amp? I assume there's a plug and play kit for it?

 

[CraigS]

What signal did everyone tap into? I’m adding a custom 12” and don’t want to tap into the filtered signal. I want it to be clean bass for my amp

Someone tested the rear door speaker signal and found thet are high pass filtered (bass is reduced). Use the factory sub signal.

 

[Striker's Stinger]

These are pretty crappy pictures since the car is parked in my garage and I can’t open the garage door because my son is sleeping and would wake him up.

But I got this set up,

• Sundown Audio 8" X-8 V.3 w/ custom box, Sundown Audio SFB-1000D Amp

I was between JL Audio and Sundown and for the price difference, which is huge, the sundown audio X-8 V.3 is pretty damn good in comparison to the JL. I didn’t want too much space taken up in the back, and I have a 22 GT1 so HK system doesn’t exist for me. I needed extra thump without overpowering everything. I kept all the inside speakers stock. The sound is incredible, I even have a tuning nob next to my steering wheel to turn up and down the bass quickly.

I initially had the box Velcro’d down but when I hit the gas from a dig the Velcro didn’t hold, the wires got loose from the box, the red and black touched, and I fried my amp. Luckily the sub was not fried. I ended up bolting it all down and forced to get a new amp less than a month after installing, my fault for going WOT though.

As you can see, there’s still plenty of space which is why I went with the 8” and not a 10 or 12”. I still wanted space. This 8” is very underrated, and as someone who used to have 2-12” JL Audio back in the Fast and Furious days of the early 2000s, this is the perfect amount of base. I tied the amp and transmitter down to the back seat so it’s all hidden and space is still available.

Hopefully some of this helps!

 

[BIGBREW]

Someone tested the rear door speaker signal and found thet are high pass filtered (bass is reduced). Use the factory sub signal.

Where is that? I’ve had no problem with grabbing the signal from the rr speaker in the door pillar.

 

[CraigS]

Where is that? I’ve had no problem with grabbing the signal from the rr speaker in the door pillar.

I have the Harmon kardon premium sound version not sure if the other one is the same, but on mine the signal is tapped where it comes off the factory amp on the passenger side of the trunk. There's a tiny little access door but it's easier to remove the whole fabric trunk liner panel from that side. Can't remember which wires but between YouTube and this forum search it was quick and easy when I did it.

 

[2manytickets]

Great info. I used to build sound q systems many, many years ago. I'm going to try the factory subs being amped. What size are they?

 

[D.J.]

Great info. I used to build sound q systems many, many years ago. I'm going to try the factory subs being amped. What size are they?

200mm (nearly 8").

Whole system shown here

 

[Pinkhavok4488]

Someone tested the rear door speaker signal and found thet are high pass filtered (bass is reduced). Use the factory sub signal.

Having tapped into the front speakers, I think you’re right. I’m going to try tapping into the sub wires next because I’m still missing the very bottom end on some songs. But I will post updates and parts used when I do the rewire

 

[D.J.]

Having tapped into the front speakers, I think you’re right. I’m going to try tapping into the sub wires next because I’m still missing the very bottom end on some songs. But I will post updates and parts used when I do the rewire

Tapping into the Sub signal, that has a very low, low pass filter... You will get your lows, but you will then not have the higher above 40hz bass.


Best case is to get something that can sum the front and sub channels like an audio control lc6i.

 

[CraigS]

Tapping into the Sub signal, that has a very low, low pass filter... You will get your lows, but you will then not have the higher above 40hz bass.


Best case is to get something that can sum the front and sub channels like an audio control lc6i.

Supposedly the subs are low crossed at 50hz. Someone suggested that 60 to 90hz was too quiet using just the sub signal for extra subs. My measurements did not support that conclusion. 50hz down is working/ measuring just fine for me with 2 12s and 1200 watts. Maybe if you are boosting bass far above what it should be you could sum rear door and sub to blend it in a bit more, but I wouldn't. BTW, the hk audio system is engineered very well and I would definitely hesitate to swap out drivers hoping to improve sound, but the treble is a bit hot, I cut mine by 5db or so if memory serves after measuring. It's especially noticeable at high volume where sibilants (s sh sounds) are too intense.

 

[D.J.]

Supposedly the subs are low crossed at 50hz. Someone suggested that 60 to 90hz was too quiet using just the sub signal for extra subs. My measurements did not support that conclusion. 50hz down is working/ measuring just fine for me with 2 12s and 1200 watts.

What about above 50hz?

How's your 50 - 90hz on your 2 12's, if using the factor Sub as a signal?

 

[jwgcpe]

Referencing Aarvix's RTA of the sub channel (posted on the first page of this thread), I don't find the low pass filter to be that dramatic. You get a pretty strong signal through ~75Hz and -5db through 75-90Hz. Many people use 80Hz as the standard LPF on subwoofers anyways.

I haven't started my install yet, but I don't think I'm going to go through the trouble (and cost) of trying to add in those reduced few Hz.

 

[CraigS]

What about above 50hz?

How's your 50 - 90hz on your 2 12's, if using the factor Sub as a signal?

I'm saying that after adding the extra subs, there was no dip in the response at 50 to 90 when measuring the whole system together. Measurements revealed a very nice response curve except for the extra treble, which was easy to correct with the tone controls.

 

[Pinkhavok4488]

I will be redoing my setup to tap into the sub signals this weekend. I will post pics, results, and advice this weekend

 

[SoulJacker]

Hello everyone, so it's possible to power the HK subwoofers with an aftermarket amp?

 

[CraigS]

Hello everyone, so it's possible to power the HK subwoofers with an aftermarket amp?

Someone said they have done it with success, although at the end of the day you're still looking at using just two 7 inch drivers. Its unlikely the drivers handle more than twice the power they're fed stock. If you double the power, you'll add 3db. How worthwhile is that really? That's a personal judgement call, but personally I would add a separate sub driver.