Slim Subwoofer

[BIGBREW]

Anyone put a slim subwoofer in their Stinger. I just need a little thump, I don't need to get crazy and don't want to use up a bunch of room.

 

[Snicklefritz]

but, we already have two slim subs under the front seats and they can belt out the bass. I used to have my bass set at +8, but for a while now I have been thoroughly satisfied with bass at -0+

 

[BIGBREW]

I would like a little more bass in my music when I want it. Not trying to rattle windows.

 

[stoopid]

I would like a little more bass in my music when I want it. Not trying to rattle windows.

If you're looking for even deeper bass (true sub frequencies) past the already respectable response with the factory subs, I don't think a slim or small tube sub will cut it. You're looking at a box in the trunk with a decent 10+" sub. Based on my testing, somewhere around 40hz the stock subs roll off pretty quick, so you need something that punches below 40hz which typically means 10" or larger.

If overall system volume isn't up to the task, you'll need to tap into the wiring harness and go with an aftermarket amp and upgraded door/tweeter speakers. In addition to any sub upgrade.

 

[Scorpion24]

I installed an amp with the JL Audio 10tw3 in a custom box that slides into the side pocket in the hatch.
It’s been great. I’ve had it installed for a year with no issues to the rest of the system.

 

[Snowwhite]

I went with an amp by the battery and spare tire, and the JL Audio sub from this thread:
Subwoofer Install Questions: Best Approach

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

@byebyeSTI is an audio wizard, he has multiple competitions and trophies under his belt for that kind of thing. If anyone can give you the advice you seek, its him.

 

[byebyeSTI]

if your just wanting to add some more usable output i suggest going with just a new amp for the under seat subs only , its an easy install and will give you great results and more control over the oem subs . no space taken up and it sound much better and play louder as well and will be totally controllable from the oem headunit . pm me if have any other questions

 

[byebyeSTI]

If you're looking for even deeper bass (true sub frequencies) past the already respectable response with the factory subs, I don't think a slim or small tube sub will cut it. You're looking at a box in the trunk with a decent 10+" sub. Based on my testing, somewhere around 40hz the stock subs roll off pretty quick, so you need something that punches below 40hz which typically means 10" or larger.

If overall system volume isn't up to the task, you'll need to tap into the wiring harness and go with an aftermarket amp and upgraded door/tweeter speakers. In addition to any sub upgrade.

they drop off after 40hz because the oem amp has no power to push past that .

 

[stoopid]

they drop off after 40hz because the oem amp has no power to push past that .

That's odd to hear since they're only 7". Did you doing any frequency sweeps/tone tests to verify? I was using a tone generator to come up with 40hz.

 

[byebyeSTI]

That's odd to hear since they're only 7"

hmm my 7 inch mid bass will play clean down to 34 hz if needed

 

[stoopid]

hmm my 7 inch mid bass will play clean down to 34 hz if needed

It's fairly easy for me to retest, I'll do that sometime soon to confirm. But it's feasible the amp is limiting the speaker's performance as you suggested, all things being equal. Stupid question, you say "mid bass", we are talking about the subs under the seat? Mid bass would be the door speakers in this config, right?

 

[byebyeSTI]

yes we have been talking about the under seat subs , i was just making an example of the 7 inch size not limiting response

 

[byebyeSTI]

That's odd to hear since they're only 7". Did you doing any frequency sweeps/tone tests to verify? I was using a tone generator to come up with 40hz.

yes i have a 7 mic summed freq rig that is very accurate for testing , bottom line they need more power to sound better , but you can replace those drivers with a better sub to gain even more output if needed . also they are running a true ib loading in the car using the frame rail for airspace that vents to the outside , lots of opportunity for better bass under the seats ,

 

[Aarvix]

Here's an input RTA of the subwoofer channel. They're low-passed around 50hz, anything above that is mostly coming from the doors (second pic).

 

[byebyeSTI]

yeah and as you can see they are band passed from the oem amp .

 

[Snowwhite]

Here's an input RTA of the subwoofer channel. They're low-passed around 50hz, anything above that is mostly coming from the doors (second pic).

View attachment 77263

View attachment 77264

are the door speakers high-passed at all? would the front door outputs be a better input for the sub amp than the underseat sub outputs?

 

[byebyeSTI]

are the door speakers high-passed at all? would the front door outputs be a better input for the sub amp than the underseat sub outputs?

i think the doors roll off naturally in the base system im not sure of the h/k set up has a band pass on it . if so then yes , if not then no ..

 

[stoopid]

are the door speakers high-passed at all? would the front door outputs be a better input for the sub amp than the underseat sub outputs?

Based on Aarvix's screenshot labelled FLL (front lower left?), it appears there's a steep drop after 50hz being sent to them so I'm assuming there's a high pass on the fronts as you suspect. It's really the only decent way to do this IMO, otherwise there could be phasing issues and definitely output level issues with two sets of speakers producing the same frequencies. Also a more efficient use of the amp's limited power output, you don't want to send frequencies you don't want/need to a speaker and waste those watts of energy.

 

[byebyeSTI]

we should also consider the eq curve that the oem amp has as well , it plays a part