Real IAT Mod Kia stinger gt 3.3t

[7thSonEngineering]

How well does the harness hide mate got a pic of it fitted please ?
I was trying to hide my wires as much as possible hence I never went with a JB4 in the first place.

PM sent as well

just plugged mine in this morning. My engine is bone stock save for the air scoops, which I'd hardly consider a mod. I didn't do back to back since I prefer to work on cold engines. I do feel more low end torque around 2k, and IAT never went higher than 20 deg above the ambient 72 degrees no matter how long I sat in traffic. I routed the wire loom under the intake manifold for a stealthier install.

View attachment 89640

See how snowwhite his? Actually it’s very hard to find the harness. Follow the harness from the sensor on the intercooler pipe. It disappears under the intake manifold. Very stealthy

 

[BIG-D]

Thanks order placed ...

 

[BIG-D]

Kinda excited... I already have the quickest street raced Stinger in my neighbourhood and since I fitted the intercooler which I never wanted to do, this thing just pulls and pulls and pulls... kinda like i did when I was 14 *sigh* and found stepdads penthouse collection.

You know what's sad?

Whatever car I have owned, whatever brand it was... if I got beat by an identical car I wanted details!!

People that own stingers around here are worried about warranty and don't want to do anything until 2028!!!!

HARDEN THE f*ck UP !

Seriously...

Peace.

 

[BIG-D]

Unreal... this came from USA quicker than a letter arrives just 1000km interstate in Australia!

Step 1 : Read instructions lol well in my defence I didn't realise it was 2 pages haha.

Started with the yellow end in wrong position and wondered why one connection was so bloody tight, found the other instructions page and swapped the harness connectors around and all sorted.

Now for something strange... I dunno what magic is created here or what is different between these 2 sensors but I started the car up (for the first time in 2 days) and it didn't go into cold start ???

It was around 1000rpm but definitely NOT the normal cold start ?

Dunno if that had something to do with me connecting the harness back to front or not, but yeh that really happened!

Car doesn't feel any slower just putting around the complex but it is very wet at the moment so I won't be driving it for a day or two, but I'm quietly optimistic about this mod

Peace

 

[Tigershark]

Unreal... this came from USA quicker than a letter arrives just 1000km interstate in Australia!

Started with the yellow end in wrong position and wondered why one connection was so bloody tight, found the other instructions page and swapped the harness connectors around and all sorted.

Now for something strange... I dunno what magic is created here or what is different between these 2 sensors but I started the car up (for the first time in 2 days) and it didn't go into cold start ???

Wow, impressive shipping for sure.

I made note of the connections being tight AF on my install as well (oriented per instructions). If nothing else it definitely ensures a good seal so there’s no water intrusion, so that’s a plus in my mind.

I haven’t noticed any difference in cold start on my end. Not sure if that’s attributable to your mods vs mine being untuned on stock plugs. My JB4/plugs/wires/etc should be arriving tomorrow so I’ll see if there’s any noticeable difference after that’s installed. I’m also a mile above sea level so who knows.

 

[Snowwhite]

I didn't notice any cold start differences either. still revs to 1500 and holds for a while.

 

[Thomby]

It was around 1000rpm but definitely NOT the normal cold start ?

I didn't notice any cold start differences either. still revs to 1500 and holds for a while.

Had the weather changed? I've noticed my startup is very tied to temperature, to the point that even remote starting it from inside, I can tell by sound whether I've driven it earlier that day, or even if it's warmed up significantly outside.

And I'm not talking about freezing weather vs. summer. Sitting overnight in say a 40-45 degree garage (~5C?) versus if the weather is 65-70 (20C?) makes a difference in that initial startup blip as the engine fires.

 

[Tigershark]

Well, today I can confirm to anyone suspicious about JB4 compatibility, there are zero issues here. Had to take a minute or so to double check the routing but otherwise it's straight forward. Simplest way to think about this is the JB4 wires aren't doing anything differently than they would if the sensors were in the stock locations. All that's happening is the 7thSon harness is intercepting the connector rather than the JB4 plugging directly into the sensor. Honestly pretty straight forward.

Interesting factoid here: the install guide calls for the rainbow wires to connect to the TMap sensor and the brown wires to go to the MAP sensor as pictured here:


Either BMS knows something we don't or they misinterpreted how these sensors are positioned. IAT's are reading properly through the JB4 app and I'm watching in real time as the data 7thSonEngineering posted is 100% accurate (I didn't have any doubts but it's nice to be able to confirm visually with real numbers in real time).

This got me thinking though, so I kind of went down a rabbit hole on the sensors themselves. They are identical part numbers, used on multiple different vehicles in Hyundai, Kia and Genesis that need boost reference, so theoretically their position shouldn't make a bit of difference. The only thing that makes sense to me is the OEM wiring harness connections themselves. If the connection to the back of the manifold is pulling TMAP data and the connection at the charge pipe is pulling just MAP data (which would explain why it's a 3 pin connection at the charge pipe rather than the full 4 pins near the manifold), it stands to reason that the sensors themselves actually don't need to move at all. Just route the wiring as detailed in the install for 7thSon harness so the car is reading what it needs to from different points.

@7thSonEngineering maybe you can chime in here but we might be saving some install time if this is the case. My guess is Hyundai Corp designed these sensors to provide different levels of data based on what kind of connection was interfaced with it. Kind of smart if you think about it. Why spend money on multiple different sensors when you can have one sensor do the job of 2?

 

[BIG-D]

As I posted the sensors appear identical but have different part numbers on the clip.

Can confirm with my considerably sized butt dyno this mod DEFINATELY works...

Gonna have to refit my diff brace again because traction from a dig has become an issue, even with the throttle controller on U3 out of U9.

My tune is loaded in eco mode so don't even suggest sports, that just blows the 275 tyre off...

Top Job team will purchase a few more for my friends when I service their Stingers ...

 

[BIG-D]

I didn't notice any cold start differences either. still revs to 1500 and holds for a while.

Yeh but I had the wires connected backwards...

 

[Tigershark]

As I posted the sensors appear identical but have different part numbers on the clip.


View attachment 89772

I think that’s more of a serial control number than a part number. I’ve run through a few different parts sites and one in particular references the same part number for both locations. No difference beyond that.

I snapped pics of both of mine just for reference:



As you can see, the numbers on my stems aren’t anywhere close to yours, hence why this makes me think it’s an etch for product control when they are produced.

 

[7thSonEngineering]

@Tigershark

First of all. Excellent write on compatibility with the Jb4 and the extra effort producing pictures with the jB4 wiring.

Concerning the part numbers for the map sensors and swapping them. I wrote in the manual to switch their locations just in case a different countries Kia stingers didn’t have two identical sensors in both locations. I did not want someone installing the mod to have issues so The safest thing to do was to just swap them. Essentially this Mod can be installed in 3 minutes or less but I wanted to insure 100% compatibility

@BIG-D

Awesome review I appreciate it! If your stinger friends are interested order them all at once and I’ll throw in a shipping discount and ship all harnesses in 1 box.

 

[BIG-D]

They won't even know... think of it as a surprise .

 

[Thomby]

Interesting factoid here: the install guide calls for the rainbow wires to connect to the TMap sensor and the brown wires to go to the MAP sensor as pictured here
Either BMS knows something we don't or they misinterpreted how these sensors are positioned. IAT's are reading properly through the JB4 app

I figured they just mislabeled MAP & TMAP, but both connectors have 4 leads. I think only one wire is intercepted on each, so I'm not sure to what degree they can alter signals, but in principle they could sample temp from the pre-throttle sensor and feed it to the post-throttle harness. Can you see which sensor the JB4 pulls from for IATs?

Also curious whether this harness just sends temp from front sensor to rear wiring harness, or completely swaps everything. Because if it's the latter, and JB4 plugs connect to it in their original locations (brown at rear, but now reading front sensor; rainbow at front but now reading rear sensor), one impact would be to swap boost1 (normally pre-throttle) and boost2 (normally post-throttle). Although they should be identical except at the moment of transition from boost to closed throttle...

 

[Tigershark]

I figured they just mislabeled MAP & TMAP, but both connectors have 4 leads. I think only one wire is intercepted on each, so I'm not sure to what degree they can alter signals, but in principle they could sample temp from the pre-throttle sensor and feed it to the post-throttle harness. Can you see which sensor the JB4 pulls from for IATs?

Also curious whether this harness just sends temp from front sensor to rear wiring harness, or completely swaps everything. Because if it's the latter, and JB4 plugs connect to it in their original locations (brown at rear, but now reading front sensor; rainbow at front but now reading rear sensor), one impact would be to swap boost1 (normally pre-throttle) and boost2 (normally post-throttle). Although they should be identical except at the moment of transition from boost to closed throttle...

I need to pull a log to bump against data that’s already out there without the harness. Didn’t think about it this morning until after I made it to work. That being said I made a handful of back to back full and partial throttle runs and had zero warnings or strange perceptible issues occur. My assumption based on this (again without seeing logs to verify) is temperature is ultimately the only major difference here. If boost reference pre and post throttle is being read backwards, it’s not making enough of a difference to cause an issue.

 

[StingerMG]

This morning, I installed the real IAT harness and I'm very impressed. After driving around and doing some mid pulls, (13~15psi) the car feels even smoother. I assume because the IAT and MAP readings are accurate now.

 

[7thSonEngineering]

I figured they just mislabeled MAP & TMAP, but both connectors have 4 leads. I think only one wire is intercepted on each, so I'm not sure to what degree they can alter signals, but in principle they could sample temp from the pre-throttle sensor and feed it to the post-throttle harness. Can you see which sensor the JB4 pulls from for IATs?

Also curious whether this harness just sends temp from front sensor to rear wiring harness, or completely swaps everything. Because if it's the latter, and JB4 plugs connect to it in their original locations (brown at rear, but now reading front sensor; rainbow at front but now reading rear sensor), one impact would be to swap boost1 (normally pre-throttle) and boost2 (normally post-throttle). Although they should be identical except at the moment of transition from boost to closed throttle...

I need to pull a log to bump against data that’s already out there without the harness. Didn’t think about it this morning until after I made it to work. That being said I made a handful of back to back full and partial throttle runs and had zero warnings or strange perceptible issues occur. My assumption based on this (again without seeing logs to verify) is temperature is ultimately the only major difference here. If boost reference pre and post throttle is being read backwards, it’s not making enough of a difference to cause an issue.

The harness makes no changes to the locations the boost is referenced at. Pre-throttle and post-throttle boost readings are taken from factory location. The only change the harness makes is to take temperature readings from the pre-throttle sensor location

 

[Tigershark]

The harness makes no changes to the locations the boost is referenced at. Pre-throttle and post-throttle boost readings are taken from factory location. The only change the harness makes is to take temperature readings from the pre-throttle sensor location

That’s what I figured but I think he’s more curious how the JB4 interacts with these connection points.

If there was any sort of conflict or issue, I’m fairly certain the car would’ve immediately gone into limp mode or the JB4 would’ve kicked into map 0 and disabled itself.

 

[7thSonEngineering]

That’s what I figured but I think he’s more curious how the JB4 interacts with these connection points.

If there was any sort of conflict or issue, I’m fairly certain the car would’ve immediately gone into limp mode or the JB4 would’ve kicked into map 0 and disabled itself.

Understand able. A log would give you this info. Check the jb4 temp readings. If there’s an issue that’s where it would show up

The vehicle ECU is getting everything it needs

 

[oddball]

JB4 doesn't read the temp from the sensors - it only intercepts the pressure signals. Temp is read from the OBD2 connection, so whatever the ECU believes the IAT to be is what JB4 will also believe.